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Old 10-31-2012, 01:03 PM   #626
05bluesti
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Ken, might as well add those flares to the project now, ive seen guys fit the karltons on the wagons too
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:17 PM   #627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kos View Post
Nice work on the leveler Ken. Just picked up the switch with pigtail for mine on the RS, might tackle that project soon.
Thanks, dude. Let me know if you need any help or anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05bluesti View Post
Ken, might as well add those flares to the project now, ive seen guys fit the karltons on the wagons too
Pictures of those flairs on wagons? I'd buy and install them in a heart beat if I knew they'd fit the wagon body.
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:49 PM   #628
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For anyone interested in the headlight leveler circuit, here is a page from the factory service manual:


Hella horns wired into the factory harness, but with their own relay and fuse.




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Old 10-31-2012, 04:44 PM   #629
05bluesti
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...e#post24138972
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...flared+fenders
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/3662412-post1748.html

You've seen the one before, karltons won't work on the front unless you have sedan fenders, the flare actually wrap around the top of the fender blister on sedans, you could do sedan with karlton on front and teamprototype is300 on rear, or teamprototype on both looks good either way

Last edited by 05bluesti; 10-31-2012 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:48 PM   #630
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Your write ups are awesome Ken. You document all steps with pics and make it easy for anyone to follow. I'm sure your write ups will help a ton of people out. I for one am going to use your headlight leveler info!


Some stuff that i've learnt along the way...regarding battery lines, you can also get alot of supplies from Allied Gases & Welding Supplies right off the 202. Welding wire is more flexible than normal battery wire, but like Ken mentioned it doesn't have as tough of a coating on it. They sell 3 different versions of 0 and 2 gauge wire though and the more expensive wire is crazy protected coated. Also sell all types of terminals. Another little secret I learned is if you have a propane torch, to snip a little bit of solder in the slug, put the wire in and crimp it down, and then heat the slug with a propane torch to melt the solder in there, then cover with shrink tube.

For depinning plugs, the "watch repair kit" at Harbor Freight has a bunch of picks and things that are awesome. Harbor freight also has some great deals on shrink wrap, variety pack, comes in like 5 little boxes, $3 or so. But like Ken said, don't use cheap electrical tape to wrap wiring or loom, get good electrical tape made for high heat.

www.delcity.net is a great online site for wiring supplies.

Last edited by djelly84; 11-01-2012 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:39 PM   #631
05bluesti
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Fender flares....do it now
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:56 PM   #632
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What are the cost of the karlton flares again? Non-carbon ones?
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:03 AM   #633
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nevermind. now i remember. "$650 for fiberglass or $950 for carbon fiber or carbon kevlar"...shhhhiiittt at that price i might order two sets so i can go double wide!


Last edited by djelly84; 11-01-2012 at 02:45 AM.
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:44 PM   #634
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My favorite build thread ever!!

Well documented and best of all, you're very meticulous!!! No janky hack job crap. I tip my hat to you sir!! Keep it up, i want to take pics of this bad boy when youre all finished . Itll help me look like a great photgrapher!!
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:17 PM   #635
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:57 PM   #636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NAZSTI View Post
Nice job Ken! Cant wait to see it all together again. Did ya do the HFS Setup?
Thanks, and sorry I missed your comment. No HFS setup yet, but I'd still like to do it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chubbsub View Post
Nice write-up on those terminals man! That engine bay looks sexy btw
Thanks. How's the new STi? When are we going to fix that AC?

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Originally Posted by 05bluesti View Post
Finish this already, didn't you learn the first time to not take everything apart lol
I'm dumb and forgetful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by amroof View Post
NOW GET THAT ENGINE DONE! <3 you!
We're working on it. I keep forgetting things that need to be done and it just makes the list longer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djelly84 View Post
Your write ups are awesome Ken. You document all steps with pics and make it easy for anyone to follow. I'm sure your write ups will help a ton of people out. I for one am going to use your headlight leveler info!


Some stuff that i've learnt along the way...regarding battery lines, you can also get alot of supplies from Allied Gases & Welding Supplies right off the 202. Welding wire is more flexible than normal battery wire, but like Ken mentioned it doesn't have as tough of a coating on it. They sell 3 different versions of 0 and 2 gauge wire though and the more expensive wire is crazy protected coated. Also sell all types of terminals. Another little secret I learned is if you have a propane torch, to snip a little bit of solder in the slug, put the wire in and crimp it down, and then heat the slug with a propane torch to melt the solder in there, then cover with shrink tube.

For depinning plugs, the "watch repair kit" at Harbor Freight has a bunch of picks and things that are awesome. Harbor freight also has some great deals on shrink wrap, variety pack, comes in like 5 little boxes, $3 or so. But like Ken said, don't use cheap electrical tape to wrap wiring or loom, get good electrical tape made for high heat.

www.delcity.net is a great online site for wiring supplies.
Thanks for the extra information and lead on Allied Gases & Welding Supplies. I will have to check them out for some brazing materials here soon. The solder for the crimp connectors is definitely a good idea. I would have done that, but my torch was at Jay's and I was too lazy to drive over there.

I agree on depinning the connectors. I bought a cheep dental pick set at Harbor Freight and it helped a lot along with the micro screwdriver set.

I got your PM's and I'll get back at you here in a bit. Both had awesome information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IVIattIVIan View Post
My favorite build thread ever!!

Well documented and best of all, you're very meticulous!!! No janky hack job crap. I tip my hat to you sir!! Keep it up, i want to take pics of this bad boy when youre all finished . Itll help me look like a great photgrapher!!
Thanks! I try to be thorough and I really dislike half-assed jobs/hack jobs. My car might not be crazy built or over the top like some of the amazing rides here on NASIOC, but at least I hope it's built well. I'd totally appreciate some pictures at some point.
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:21 AM   #637
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I am nearly done with the install of my Innovate LC-1 Wideband and XD-16 gauge. I bought this kit a couple of years ago slightly used from an AZAWD.org member and figured now was a good time to install it.

The install is fairly simple and the Innovate provided instructions made it pretty easy:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf

Basically, you need to find a place to mount the controller, a way to run the wires through the firewall, a good grounding location, a constant +12 volt (more on that later), and decide what you want to do for the calibration circuit.

I decided to mount the LC-1 controller on the passenger side strut tower. This provides enough length to mount the O2 sensor in the downpipe. I have not mounted it yet, however, as I'm making a mounting plate for it and my electronic boost controller. You can see that I used some shrink wrap and tie wraps to hug the cables against the controller.


I am running the cables through the firewall at the passenger side harness port. This allows me to tie the wideband cables to main harness for a nice tidy look.


I carefully cut the rubber pass-through seal and fed the wires through. I glued the edges of the cut to keep the seal from tearing open bigger than it needs to be.




The wires come out under the dash near the back of the glovebox. I removed the box to get in there. You can see the wires running out toward the top right corner of the picture.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:28 AM   #638
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Now that the wires were routed into the cabin, I could start connecting them. My kit had 7 wires in the main harness. They are as follows:

a. Red - 12V supply
b. Blue - Heater Ground
c. White - System Ground
d. Yellow - Analog out 1
e. Brown - Analog out 2
f. Green - Analog Ground
g. Black - Calibration wire

I started with the +12 volt supply. With the wideband, this is tricky. Since this is a heated sensor, it needs to be warm/warming when the exhaust gasses first hit it on start up. If it is cold, it will still function, but the lifespan of the senor may be decreased significantly. So the trick here is to find a wire that is hot when the car is in the "ON" position, and stays hot while the motor is cranking. This gives the sensor just a bit more time to warm up before it's subjected the hot exhaust. With the advice of a few guys on NASIOC and elsewhere, I found one such source at the Hazard switch on the center console. Apparently this source is also very stable during cranking, but I was obviously unable to test this right now.

So to capture the +12 volt source, I ran a wire from behind the hazard switch to the glove box area. All connections were soldered. I ran this wire in nylon braided loom along with the calibration switch wires (more on that later).


Next, I dealt with the yellow, green and brown wires which are used in the analog out. This analog out is used when you want to tie the sensor to a standalone ECU or other data collection device. I did not need this in my setup, so I capped these wires off with some heat shrink tubing.

After that, I tackled the grounds. Innovate stresses the importance of a proper grounding technique for this device. This is because it uses the ground as a reference for calibration. If it is subject to high variation between it's grounds, the sensor's accuracy can be affected negatively.

With this in mind, I decided to run all the grounds to a common point on the dash chassis. I tested this location in reference to the battery negative terminal to make sure it had little to no resistance (cleanly grounded). At this location, the blue, white and black wires would be connected. It should be noted that I used dielectric grease at the connection to the chassis to prevent corrosion at a later date.

At this point it's important to understand what the black calibration wire is for and how it's used. The calibration wire should normally be "open" or not hooked to ground while the senor is running. Placing this wire to ground puts the LC-1 into calibration mode which should be done periodically as you use the sensor. As stated earlier, this wire should be put to ground at the same location as the other system grounds to ensure accuracy. Now the last part to the calibration wire function: it also sends signals to an LED if hooked up. These signals can help you to know if the system is functioning properly; different pulsing/blinking can be used to convey trouble codes or system function.

There are two basic ways you can handle this calibration wire. 1) leave it disconnected somewhere in the car and only hook it up when you want to perform a calibration, 2) set the wire to a momentary switch that you press to start calibration or 3) set the wire to a switch and LED in parallel to communicate system status and perform calibration. I chose the last option.

I used this diagram to hook up the two components. The ground went back to the central ground location that the white and blue wires were grounded at.


I had an empty switch plate at on the left side of the steering wheel. Here I installed the LED and the momentary switch.

Drilling the switch plate (I messed this one up with poor centering and had to make a second).


Switch and LED in place:






The LED and switch wired together in parallel as shown in the diagram above. I used some small spade bits (crimped and soldered) so I could disconnect the switch plate when removing the dash in the future.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:28 AM   #639
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These are the wires to and from the controller harness behind the glove box. Again, you can see the spade bits for disconnecting in the future. I used red shrink tube to differentiate the supply and return. In hindsight, I could have simply reversed the spade bits so there was one male and one female, but I didn't think of that at the time.




Here are all the connections at the main harness behind the glove box:


In this picture, you can see the common ground wire (black) coming out of the left side of the bundle.


Here is everything cleaned up and with shrink tubing in place. Looks clean and tidy.


Last edited by kpluiten; 11-04-2012 at 01:44 AM.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:42 AM   #640
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Next I wrapped up the excess wire and fixed it to the crash bar with a couple of zip ties.


I also connected the XD-16 gauge to the LC-1 with the supplied 3.5mm patch cable. This step is literally plug and play. You can see the connectors in the bundle above. There is another connector that then plugs into the XD-16 that goes to a serial connector for computer logging. Again, plug and play.

The install of the XD-16 was super easy: find a location to mount it, connect it to the LC-1 with the supplied patch cable, and run a ground and +12v power to the gauge. For the ground and power, I simply tapped the supplies from my boost gauge. I mounted the XD-16 in the open hole in my cluster surround. The white gauge face is installed, but there is a black one available that I will install to match the other gauge better. I am also painting the gauge bezel satin silver to match the interior trim and gauge surrounds.


Last, I performed a start-up calibration as instructed in the user manual and then a free-air calibration. The status LED indicated that the system was working properly and that the calibration was successful. The gauge displayed the warm-up countdown and then the current readings.




Video of the gauge start up dance and warm-up count down. Click to view.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:53 AM   #641
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Now I've got to put the interior back together. Yikes.








Lastly, I'm planning to mount the O2 sensor for the kit in the bell-mouth of the downpipe. This is a heavily debated topic (location of the sensor), but many well respected members /tuners I've spoken with said they've had no trouble with this area. The only thing to worry about is excess heating of the sensor that can damage it or shorten its lifespan. To remedy this heat, Innovate says to construct a copper heat shield for the sensor. I put this together using some rivets and copper plate.







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Old 11-04-2012, 03:16 AM   #642
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The V8 EJ207 Spec-C motor I purchased came with the external oil cooler lines on the block. Unfortunately, it did not come with the factory oil cooler itself (the motors rarely do). Luke found a comparable unit made by an Australian company that retailed for around $35-40 bucks so I picked one up. My plan is to mount it between the condenser and the radiator, but we'll see how much room there is when I get everything in there.

Anyway, the factory cooler supply lines on the motor and the cooler I bought use a push-on barb/flair type fitting that you use with standard rubber hose and hose clamps. For no real good reason, I thought I'd convert it to use -6AN fittings and lines.

I ordered some weld-on -6AN male fittings, aluminum ones for the cooler side and steel ones for the engine line side. I thought about having someone weld them on, but I figured I'd try my hand at brazing them on first.

For the cooler side I started by cutting the barbs off (about 0.25" off the tip). Then I drilled out the fittings to measure 3/8" ID. I only drilled them about 3/8" deep so that I didn't weaken the threaded portion or mess with the conical sealing surface at the end. This allowed the fitting to slide onto the cooler feed tube. I also chamfered the hole in the fitting to allow the aluminum to flow between the two pieces.

I cut this flaired portion off:


Here is the fitting being drilled out:


Result:


Next, I cleaned the two parts with a wire brush and headed them with a MAPP torch very slowly and evenly. I used aluminum brazing rod to build up material between the two parts.

Cleaned:


Assembled and ready to braze:



Brazed together:




This took practice and I ended up ruining a fitting during the process so I'll have to order another tomorrow; aluminum can be tricky I've learned. I hope to figure out a way to pressure test this before installation into the car, but right now, it feels SOLID.

I started on the steel side as well, but didn't make much progress.
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:55 PM   #643
05bluesti
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Fyi, video of wideband is uploaded upside down, judging by your car and how meticulous you are id imagine it would bug you lol
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:02 PM   #644
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Looking good Ken! Keep it coming man!
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:48 PM   #645
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Dam, Ken your **** is to nice. You need to put some grease on that beast to make me feel a little better about my car lol.
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:19 PM   #646
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What rotas did you get? Or are those boxes in that picture old
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:10 PM   #647
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Fyi, video of wideband is uploaded upside down, judging by your car and how meticulous you are id imagine it would bug you lol
I can't figure out how to flip it. Or at least not in the 20 seconds I took to look at it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02blkwagn19 View Post
Looking good Ken! Keep it coming man!
Thanks. How are those levelers working out for you?

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Originally Posted by amroof View Post
Dam, Ken your **** is to nice. You need to put some grease on that beast to make me feel a little better about my car lol.
I'm certain everything on this motor/car will leak within 10 miles of putting the car back on the road and it will look like ****. Don't you worry about that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05bluesti View Post
What rotas did you get? Or are those boxes in that picture old
Those are just Rota boxes. Inside them I have a set of gold 2008 STi BBS's. I can't decide what color to coat them, maybe matte bronze, so I'll be putting new tires on my 17" BBS's and rocking those for a while. Besides, the 17's ride nice and are much lighter than the 18's. I'm working on prices for 235/45/17 Hankook R-S3's right now. The car DESPERATELY needs new shoes as the cords are showing on the rears.
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:06 PM   #648
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Nice job on the lambda sensor heatsink...it's pretty.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:15 PM   #649
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:43 PM   #650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05bluesti View Post
Yeah, I saw that site. Discount Tire quoted me $154 each or $616 for the tires and a total of $756.22 mounted and balanced and with the free road hazard coverage.

This site you linked to wants $139.72 each or $558.88 + $51.50 S&H or $610.38 for four tires. Then you need mounting and balancing.

I need to call discount and find out their rate to mount and balance 4 tires. The guy also was vry clear on the phone that he'd be willing to work on price if I found a better deal online. Maybe I can get them to come down on mounting and balancing. I was aiming for $700 out the door. If I went with 225/45/17, I could hit that easy, but the 235/45/17's are more expensive. I think the extra 0.6" width per tire is worth it.

235/45 will be a meaty tire on the wagon body with an 8" wide rim. We'll see if they fit.
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