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Old 08-18-2013, 02:09 PM   #776
yman
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04 sti
psm

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Subaru copied your Blue/Green scheme with the new WRX. Subaru saw your car and said, "y we no do dat b4?"
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:02 PM   #777
05bluesti
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05 WRB STi

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Those subimod alt cover and radiator panel would look great in that grey vein
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:54 PM   #778
lox
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dayum, fantastic work, much respect

looking really good, best of luck with the shakedown
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:40 PM   #779
Preludecris
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2013 WRX Sedan
PBP

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I like the tuna here...
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:29 PM   #780
blkscooby
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2005 LGT
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No one likes the tuna here. Try Fatburger next time...
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:26 PM   #781
rubrduk
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06 wagback...now
with more child seat!

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not that anyone cares what i think...but i've decided to enter my evaluation of this build into internet history

i am utterly astounded at the build quality and detail work...and i'm weirdly excited that you have not used a bunch of big-build aftermarket race/show parts.

my question, what is the goal here...it looks like you are building the WRX wagon that we all wish was available from Subaru 7 years ago (i'm an 06 Wagback owner myself), but in reality would cost $70k at this level.

I am seeing a very well sorted car on a budget (not a bunch of costly pieces, just your time)...but what is your ultimate goal? The most badass daily driver in a late model skin?, a show car?, or is this just the car in your garage and the knowledge that you have being turned into a killer hobby project?

don't take any of this as negative...i am truly curious to your motivation and have well enjoyed reading the 32 pages of updates so far


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Old 08-22-2013, 07:45 PM   #782
05bluesti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubrduk View Post
not that anyone cares what i think...but i've decided to enter my evaluation of this build into internet history

i am utterly astounded at the build quality and detail work...and i'm weirdly excited that you have not used a bunch of big-build aftermarket race/show parts.

my question, what is the goal here...it looks like you are building the WRX wagon that we all wish was available from Subaru 7 years ago (i'm an 06 Wagback owner myself), but in reality would cost $70k at this level.

I am seeing a very well sorted car on a budget (not a bunch of costly pieces, just your time)...but what is your ultimate goal? The most badass daily driver in a late model skin?, a show car?, or is this just the car in your garage and the knowledge that you have being turned into a killer hobby project?

don't take any of this as negative...i am truly curious to your motivation and have well enjoyed reading the 32 pages of updates so far


Agree, It awesome that this car is finally getting back together, its like a spec c sti wagon
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:35 PM   #783
lukeskywrx
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What MAF? -Speed Density!

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Finally getting finished, glad to hear the base maps worked out for you to get up and running.
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Old 09-07-2013, 04:46 AM   #784
djelly84
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White & Blue

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So ****ing epic...straight up work of art Ken!
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:03 PM   #785
ZTSTI
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Easily my favorite wagon!
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Old 09-07-2013, 11:16 PM   #786
blkscooby
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I reread this entire thread today, impressed!
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:33 AM   #787
kpluiten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yman View Post
Subaru copied your Blue/Green scheme with the new WRX. Subaru saw your car and said, "y we no do dat b4?"
I really like the color scheme. But now that Jay and I are setup to powder coat, I have the urge to try something new...

No, seriously!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05bluesti View Post
Those subimod alt cover and radiator panel would look great in that grey vein
They would. I may try making my own though to see what I can come up with. See my filter and FPR mounting plate later in this thread; I'm gettign decent and cutting and bending parts with nothing but my angle grinder, a vice, and some ingenuity. We need to work on some under-panels for our subframe braces this winter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lox View Post
dayum, fantastic work, much respect

looking really good, best of luck with the shakedown
Thank you. Your Forester is coming along as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Preludecris View Post
I like the tuna here...


Quote:
Originally Posted by blkscooby View Post
No one likes the tuna here. Try Fatburger next time...


Quote:
Originally Posted by rubrduk View Post
not that anyone cares what i think...but i've decided to enter my evaluation of this build into internet history

i am utterly astounded at the build quality and detail work...and i'm weirdly excited that you have not used a bunch of big-build aftermarket race/show parts.

my question, what is the goal here...it looks like you are building the WRX wagon that we all wish was available from Subaru 7 years ago (i'm an 06 Wagback owner myself), but in reality would cost $70k at this level.

I am seeing a very well sorted car on a budget (not a bunch of costly pieces, just your time)...but what is your ultimate goal? The most badass daily driver in a late model skin?, a show car?, or is this just the car in your garage and the knowledge that you have being turned into a killer hobby project?

don't take any of this as negative...i am truly curious to your motivation and have well enjoyed reading the 32 pages of updates so far
Thank you for the kind words and the well thought out response. Sorry for the delay in reply, but your post really got me thinking about why I built this car in the first place. And after weeks of kicking it around in the back of my head, I still do not know the answer.

I moved out to Queen Creek for a job right out of college in 2008. I owned nothing but this car and I had absolutely no friends in the Phoenix Valley. I spent many, many nights bored as hell and pretty lonely. I spent hours on the Subaru forums. Up to that point, I had never really turned a wrench on a car (my father always had a strict no-car-projects rule growing up).

I met a lot of people on here and on AZAWD.org who became good friends. We had weekly meets and that gave me something to do outside of work. From there it just spiraled out of control. But it's been worth it. I've learned a ton and met many outstanding people.

So, in short, I have no single reason why I work on this car other than I enjoy it and it serves as an outlet of creative energy (and excess cash ). As you put it, this is just a car in my garage and I apply my knowledge to try to make it as unique as possible. Every time I think I'm done, I find something new.

I enjoy driving it, but as you can see, I enjoy working on it far more. Most people I tell that to can't see where I'm coming from.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05bluesti View Post
Agree, It awesome that this car is finally getting back together, its like a spec c sti wagon
That's the goal; Spec-C-ish wagon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeskywrx View Post
Finally getting finished, glad to hear the base maps worked out for you to get up and running.
Map worked like a charm. After priming the motor, it fired up on the first crank. Like it had been running forever. Thank you again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djelly84 View Post
So ****ing epic...straight up work of art Ken!
Strong works coming from you and your drift-aru.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZTSTI View Post
Easily my favorite wagon!
Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by blkscooby View Post
I reread this entire thread today, impressed!
Hearing another engineer say that is quite a compliment. Thank you.
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:54 AM   #788
kpluiten
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OK, I am LONG overdue for updates to this thread. The car is up and running now, but it is not tuned yet. It is currently over at Precision Chassis Works where Kent is fabricating the exhaust and the new FMIC pipes.

For the exhaust, he is creating a new downpipe to fit the twin-scroll turbo and while he is at it, I'm having him V-band all the junctions on the exhaust. This will get rid of the silly2" long 2.75" necked-down portion on the Greddy EVO II midpipe. It didn't make sense to go 3" -> 2.75" -> 3".

For the FMIC pipes, I made some suggestions for what I was thinking, but we'll see what Kent comes up with. I trust he'll come up with something that is clean and functional.

Here is a video of it running the first night. It is in limp-mode with no MAF and no downpipe.



In no particular order, here are some other projects I've been working on.

I rebuilt the alternator. They are impossible to get apart until you know the secret which Jay taught me. When I got it back together, I found out that it was faulty. This would explain why my battery kept dying the month before I took the car apart. Right now the car is running on the JDM unit that came with the EJ207. I will fix this one soon.

I painted the part between the two case halves:


I also powder coated the two case halves in my favorite green. Jay did my pulley in black. This is the finished product:





To get the car over to Precision Chassis Works, I left the inlet and turbo open, but I used a modified stock intake box to provide a filter for the engine. It looks pretty awesome and I picked up horse power with this short-ram design.





Right under the scoop!
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Old 10-08-2013, 02:03 AM   #789
kpluiten
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06 WRBWRXWGN
Now with 100% more Spec-C

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I've heard many positive things about the Angry Roo Perfomance 3-port Electronic Boost Solenoid. It is similar in design to the HOA/Prodrive unit, but at a more reasonable price. It can be found here:
http://angryroo.com/Products/AR-BCS-...ntrol-Solenoid

The Angry Roo unit comes with nice rubber isolators, mounting hardware, clamps, and more than enough vacuum line. It is also plug and play into the factory harness.





Here it is mounted to the plate I fabricated for the passenger side strut tower:




Here it is on the plate and installed in the car:
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Old 10-08-2013, 02:23 AM   #790
kpluiten
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If you've been following the thread since the beginning of the EJ207 swap, you'll remember that there are a few modifications to components/systems that must be made to complete the swap. One of these modifications is the use of an adapter plate to allow the use of the drive-by-wire (DBW) throttle body on the drive-by-cable (DBC) intake manifold. While the two are close, they are NOT interchangeable for a variety of reasons stemming from bolt size/pattern as well as the idle air control systems.

Since I showed off my original adapter design, I've had a fair amount of interest from other members who are either doing an EJ207 swap into the DBW car or who want to use the long-runner TGV-less manifold on a DBW car/engine. A new thinner design was requested to help with fitment of the TMIC, something I did not consider when I originally designed it for my FMIC setup. The new design is 1/8" thinner, which may not seem like much, but that is a 33% reduction in total thickness.

Here are some pictures of this adapter:














Or, if you want the TB in the stock orientation you can flip the adapters like this (it won't fit completely on my setup due to the hard fuel lines):
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:13 AM   #791
kpluiten
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When I was flashing the new map the Luke provided me for the EJ207, I remembered what a pain it was to reach under the dash and connect/disconnect the green diagnostic connectors. I had the idea to make a switch that was easier to access and I was bored while watching TV. I got a spare set of green connectors from Jay and a $0.99 switch from Fry's Electronics. I had some LED's and resistors sitting around. I used a spare switch blank on the left of the steering wheel (my last one open).

I started with this piece:


I then used the dremel tool to carefully remove all of the excess plastic between the two mounting clips. I then measured the throw size for the switch and cut that into the plate. Then drilled the mounting holes. Lastly, I drilled the holes for the LED's. These were 2 volt LED's, so I had to use a resistor to supply them correctly without burning them up. I then configured the circuit so that when the switch is open (diagnostic mode disconnected or off), the green light glows. When the car is in diagnostic mode, the red light glows. Pretty simple. Only requires a 12 volts source, ground, and the green connectors to be plugged into it.

Finished product:




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Old 10-08-2013, 03:19 AM   #792
kpluiten
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Here is a little project, but it turned out well. I made a new bracket for my TXS FMIC. The one they provided with the kit was pretty whimpy and allowed the core to shake around. I cut and bent a new one out of 1/8"x1" aluminum. Then I gave it a brushed finish. You can also see the powder coated FMIC core, Hella Supertones, and a bit of the Hayden oil cooler.



Here is the old, janky, bent up bracket compared to the new one:
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:25 AM   #793
lox
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dgm rbp

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solid work, diagnostic switch is a great idea

now go to bed
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:28 AM   #794
kpluiten
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OK, here is a much bigger project than the one above; the fuel system for the new motor.

This system was completely fabricated and laid out by myself... which means it will probably give me a ton of grief when it comes time to tune the car.

The components:
ID1000 Injectors - Top Feed
TXS Fuel Rails - USDM
Self-designed Fuel Rail Adapters (USDM to JDM fitment)
AN -6 Stainless Hardlines - All bending and flairs done in-house
Golan Stainless Fuel Filter - AN-6
Aeromotive FPR - AN-6
Earls AN Fittings and Softlines


First I designed the adapter plates to allow the USDM fuel rails (meant for TGV housings) to be used on the TGV-less JDM manifold.






Here they are in my favorite green:


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Old 10-08-2013, 03:53 AM   #795
kpluiten
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Next I began the LONG, LONG process of learning to bend and flare stainless tubing. I started with 25' of tubing. I wasted at least 10' of that. At least. In fact, after the whole project was done, I have about 4' left.

Some things I learned:

1) AN fittings use a 37 degree flare, NOT the standard 45 degree flare that you commonly find in stores for various other purposes. 37 degree is more robust and seals better.
2) YOU MUST have the right tools to work with stainless. It is MUCH harder than the mild steel (green tube) you find at auto parts stores. The stainless must be annealed or you WILL break/crack it during bending or flaring. Or you'll break your tools.
3) Make sample bends to learn how to properly use the bending tool and how much space they take.
4) Practice flaring as well.
5) Again, BUY THE RIGHT TOOLS! My bender cost $56 and my flare tool cost $109. They are then best available though and made the job infinitely easier.
6) The minute you make the perfect bend/flare, you'll realize you forgot to put the ferrule and tube nut on the work piece. This is where most of my waste came from.

Here are the tools I used.
1) The bender is an Imperial 470 FH. It supports 1/8" to 3/8" tubing and 0 to 180 degree bends. Made in the USA.
2) The flaring tool is a RIGID Model 377, 37 degree. It supports 3/16" to 3/4" tubing. Made in the USA. It actually rolls the flare into the tube with a full ball bearing cone rather than raw pressing like the cheaper systems. It also disengages when the flare is exactly the right size. The result is a flare with a mirror like inner finish and exact dimensions.
3) The pipe cutter is a RIGID Model 150. It supports 1/8" to 1 1/8", Copper to Stainless. HOWEVER, this tool proved to be the wrong one for the job as it necked the tubing down which messed up the flares. I ended up cutting the tube sections with an angle grinder and then filing the burrs off.



Here are some photos of the lines in progress:


Note the first manifold color I tried in this picture (was done by another coater). It turned out bad. Part of the reason I jumped into doing my own coating.


There was hardly any room in this area due to the rotated turbo and upgraded Kinugawa wastegate.


Around the throttle body.


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Old 10-08-2013, 03:56 AM   #796
kpluiten
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I had to make some modifications to the TXS fuel rails to allow me to plug in the AVCS plugs. This was a headache. If I was to do it over, I would have bout lower profile fuel rails, but I already had these so I went with it.

BEFORE:


AFTER:






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Old 10-08-2013, 04:01 AM   #797
kpluiten
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More tube bending. You can se the old coolant tank color here as well. It wasn't a good color; it didn't pop. I redid it in black chrome and it looks WAY nicer.












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Old 10-08-2013, 04:06 AM   #798
kpluiten
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I also had to make custom AN fittings for the TXS fuel rails. Stock, the rails come with hose barbs and hoses. I ditched those and found some AN adapters that fit the rails and then went to AN -6, but they had a really small through hole. So I machined them out to the correct AN -6 inner diameter. I also shortened them so that they wouldn't bottom out in the rail or block the injector feed holes. So much work for something so silly.

BEFORE:


See the tiny through hole?


DURING:








AFTER:


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Old 10-08-2013, 04:21 AM   #799
kpluiten
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With the rails and hardlines on the engine all set, I waited for the motor to be set in the car before I started in on the FPR, filter and lines from the firewall to the motor.

I ended up running hardlines from the firewall to the FPR and Filter and softlines between those and the motor attachment points. This allows the motor to move without causing stress on the lines.


First, I designed a plate to sit where the 2006 WRX air pump normally is. It nests inside the fuse box, in front of the brake master cylinder. I started with a cardboard template. Once the template fit perfectly, I unfolded it and traced it onto a piece of aluminum. I then cut the shape out and bent it in the same locations as my template. Then I finished the edges, drilled the mounting holes, and powder coated it in Black Chrome. This is one of the pieces I am most proud of.

Basic shape cut from aluminum plate. It is mounted up in the vice for the first bend. I used thick steel plates to make nice straight bends. A mallet and some hard wood blocks helped to make nice crisp bends.






Here you can see the first three bends in place and the part mounted up for the fourth and final bend:


All bends done:


Test fitting. Tape on edges to protect paint and parts.




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Old 10-08-2013, 04:22 AM   #800
kpluiten
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Then it was just a matter of rounding the corners and sanding the edges:




Here it is back in place. It uses factory mounting locations so no holes needed to be drilled in the chassis.
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