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Old 09-30-2010, 06:16 PM   #1
Denneghy
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Default Can I wax a new car?

Hey guys as the title states. I just picked up a new wrx and was wondering if it would be ok to wax it already? I heard that you should wait till atleast 30-90 days when the paint was applied. Where can I figure out when the vehicle was made? The paint is smooth when I run my fingers over it but its not silky smooth. Thanks.
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:20 PM   #2
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Yes, you can wax it. Paint at the factory is baked on. Also, paint not being smooth means you should claybar. Wax shouldn't make paint feel smooth, maybe more slick than when not waxed, but not smooth as in.. clean I suppose. Wax is just a protectant. You should definitely clay bar though.

There should be a plate between the driver side doors that says when the car was made, at least it does for my car.
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:22 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by chazly413 View Post
Yes, you can wax it. Paint at the factory is baked on. Also, paint not being smooth means you should claybar. Wax shouldn't make paint feel smooth, maybe more slick than when not waxed, but not smooth as in.. clean I suppose. Wax is just a protectant. You should definitely clay bar though.

There should be a plate between the driver side doors that says when the car was made, at least it does for my car.
Its brand new do you think claying it would be necessary?
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:23 PM   #4
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There is a good chance it already has been waxed by the dealership. But I wouldn't worry about the paint curing properly.
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:23 PM   #5
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^ maybe from all the debris it has been collecting outside the lot.
but yea on my 02 , there is a silver plate with vin# below the latch that will tell when the car was manufac.
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:29 PM   #6
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^ maybe from all the debris it has been collecting outside the lot.
but yea on my 02 , there is a silver plate with vin# below the latch that will tell when the car was manufac.
Do you mean under the hood? I checked found nothing.
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denneghy View Post
Its brand new do you think claying it would be necessary?
Depends on how long it sat outside, but yeah.
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denneghy View Post
Do you mean under the hood? I checked found nothing.
drivers side door jamb. near the latch
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:06 PM   #9
chazly413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denneghy View Post
Its brand new do you think claying it would be necessary?
Yes. Cars are most frequently transported from port to dealer via rail, where they are exposed to rail dust and the elements.
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:06 PM   #10
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Put your hand in a ziplock bag and run your hand over the paint after it has been washed. If it feels rough then it needs a claybar.
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:41 PM   #11
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I sold cars and the dealership doesn't clay them so I'd say clay it, if you never have just wash the car with a good car wash you could this time use Dawn so it takes away the dealer petroleum filled polish and dry it then used a detail spray and a claybar keep it well lubricated and kneed it when it gets dirty, i'd do one area at a time until the entire car is done then put a sealant on,followed by some good carnauba wax.
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:58 PM   #12
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you should clay bar it first
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:05 PM   #13
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Claybar it first.
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:09 PM   #14
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^ +1, do it right the from day one and it will make life so much easier.
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:58 PM   #15
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Taken from another post where someone asks about new car protection..

In short it is a good idea, especially with imported cars to decontaminate them(with clay) and seal or wax them from the start of their life with you. Every modern OEM paint is factory cured.

Repainted areas are the areas that are cautioned to wait 30-60 days and in reality some(definitely not most or all for that matter) are cure baked well enough that they don't need waiting- these are typically the highest of high end custom and OEM matching shops that cost big bucks but obviously go above most.


...Claying a new car is definitely recommended. You will be very surprised what can be found on the clay even on a seemingly smooth finish. This is even more important on imported cars and cars that have sat on the lots.

Also claybarring is a great way to get a smooth perfect finish ready for a coat of wax or sealant(something durable now that winter is approaching) and will make that coat last considerably longer. Plus, a contaminate free surface makes washing and drying easier because the water will sheet off the car and make drying smoother.

Another thing about getting a new vehicle is caring right the from the start for it. Starting off with a clean, uncontaminated slate and protecting it on a regular basis along with your regular cleanings will always make it easier to maintain as well as being better for it's value in the long run

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure as they say.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:25 PM   #16
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Well I got anxious and applied a sealant. I used nxt 2.0 not bad but it was a pain to take off. I thought taking it off would be faster than applying it but was I wrong. After taking it off 2 hours and 10 microfibers later my arms felt like I just finished a faping marathon. Is this normal I thought it said easy on/off. I think my problem was I waited too long to take it off(should of done one section at a time) or too thick of a coat or both. I applied one coat on the whole car which took 30-45 minutes before taking it off and I used half the can. Anyone have experience with nxt 2.0? Also thanks for the advice about the claying I will probably do it in a month.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:35 PM   #17
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Thats a fine choice, better to have protection on it than none at all.

It sounds like you just put it on too thick, no big deal(except for your arms). Next time just prime your applicator and just work around the car even if you can't see the wax thicking going on - one thing we say is if your applicator is sliding easily, then you are applying thinly.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoAesthetica View Post
Thats a fine choice, better to have protection on it than none at all.

It sounds like you just put it on too thick, no big deal(except for your arms). Next time just prime your applicator and just work around the car even if you can't see the wax thicking going on - one thing we say is if your applicator is sliding easily, then you are applying thinly.
Cool thanks for the advice. I think I'll apply some caranuba tomorrow. Should I wash it again before or would a wipe down with a micro be fine? Also the next time when I clay it I heard use some dawn to strip the previouse wax before is this accurate? Sorry with all the questions.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denneghy View Post
Well I got anxious and applied a sealant. I used nxt 2.0 not bad but it was a pain to take off. I thought taking it off would be faster than applying it but was I wrong. After taking it off 2 hours and 10 microfibers later my arms felt like I just finished a faping marathon. Is this normal I thought it said easy on/off. I think my problem was I waited too long to take it off(should of done one section at a time) or too thick of a coat or both. I applied one coat on the whole car which took 30-45 minutes before taking it off and I used half the can. Anyone have experience with nxt 2.0? Also thanks for the advice about the claying I will probably do it in a month.
You'll find out what works best with more experience doing it. You may consider using an orbital http://www.detailersdomain.com/orbit...shersflex.aspx to make the application less strenuous on your arms if you think you will be detailing your car yourself in the future.
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:17 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denneghy View Post
Cool thanks for the advice. I think I'll apply some caranuba tomorrow. Should I wash it again before or would a wipe down with a micro be fine? Also the next time when I clay it I heard use some dawn to strip the previouse wax before is this accurate? Sorry with all the questions.
Youre good no worries

If you have driven it, wash it. If it sat and its super super windy, wash it. If its a calm night in a calm neighborhood I think most agree a very thorough rinse should be alright(though I would wash it lol).

Also like Noek said, something like a porter cable polisher(we just finished a group purchase but could set you up if you like) for the future might make it easier to apply wax thinly but if you apply it thin by hand there isn't a real need for one. But if you ever decide to polish they are definitely a tool investment to consider.

As for the dawn wash prior to claying you can skip, if you are claybarring, a heavy dose of your car shampoo(2 oz per gallon of water) and your regular wash followed up by a good clay should get anything you have on there off. And just so you know if you didn't already. Thats why we tell everyone follow the 1 oz per 1 gallon of water rule. Stronger mixes and just using the "glub glub glub method" can sometimes strip your wax prematurely - unless thats what you are going after.
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:54 AM   #21
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Youre good no worries

If you have driven it, wash it. If it sat and its super super windy, wash it. If its a calm night in a calm neighborhood I think most agree a very thorough rinse should be alright(though I would wash it lol).

Also like Noek said, something like a porter cable polisher(we just finished a group purchase but could set you up if you like) for the future might make it easier to apply wax thinly but if you apply it thin by hand there isn't a real need for one. But if you ever decide to polish they are definitely a tool investment to consider.

As for the dawn wash prior to claying you can skip, if you are claybarring, a heavy dose of your car shampoo(2 oz per gallon of water) and your regular wash followed up by a good clay should get anything you have on there off. And just so you know if you didn't already. Thats why we tell everyone follow the 1 oz per 1 gallon of water rule. Stronger mixes and just using the "glub glub glub method" can sometimes strip your wax prematurely - unless thats what you are going after.
Ok thanks for the advice. Now I have to wait till the sun goes down before I wash it. I swear I wish someone would blow up the sun already. Maybe I'll take it to the self carwash. Thanks for the offer on the polisher in the future if I'm interested I'll contact you.
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:06 AM   #22
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If you don't want to use Dawn (some don't like it since it can be harsh on plastic trim with repeated use), Chemical Guys makes a good shampoo called citrus wash and gloss which will help remove old wax as well. It smells great too!

I generally will use both
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:41 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Noek View Post
If you don't want to use Dawn (some don't like it since it can be harsh on plastic trim with repeated use), Chemical Guys makes a good shampoo called citrus wash and gloss which will help remove old wax as well. It smells great too!

I generally will use both
....or CG Citrus Wash and Clear. Either one (or a similar product) would be more effective IMO/IME than a more milder car wash shampoo like Gold Class, DG 901, etc. CG CWC is what I use to help with product removal most of the time although decontamination systems like Valugard ABC can be far more effective depending on the situation.
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:55 PM   #24
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Just as a note to those who may not have experience with DG.

901 car wash can be surprisingly powerful at helping to the less durable waxes and sealants when used at the 2oz per gallon ratio which IIRC is about the same ratio as CWG and CWC from CG. 901 is quite the LSP stripper when you double up on it. Many shampoos when doubled on their recommended dilutions can be quite effective at stripping the lesser durable waxes..
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Old 10-02-2010, 12:05 AM   #25
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....I use DG 901/902 and it is by far my current OTC favorite. ....heck, even when compared to online/boutique offerings I still rank it as one of the better choices out there.

CG CW&C and CW&G's recommended dilution ratios when used as a regular car wash soap is 1/2 oz. per gallon of water. ....DG 901 is 1oz per gallon according to label but it still has plenty of lubricity at lower dilutions.

I guess I never thought of DG as a potentially aggressive cleaner like CG but I can honestly say I've never tried it at those levels (only 1oz/gal at the highest). I actually find it quite gentle on the LSP's I have used but I admit the ones I use are typically quite resilient. DG claims there are no acids or alkali in their product and that it won't strip wax. I'm sure that's at it's recommended dilution though so its reasonable to consider that its so-called "gentle" cleaners will have a more of an impact at higher concentrations.
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