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Old 10-01-2010, 04:11 AM   #1
dome24
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Angry Compression Check=OPERATOR FAIL!

SOLVED!! SEE BELOWW


97 Brighton 1.8ECU and electronics-94 2.2 sohc longblock 2.5 years semi-trouble free.

My Front engine seals have been leaking for awhile and last week before i was headed into the shop to fix them 'i figured Id run a quick CC to see if it was even worth fixing the seals if the motor was crapped anyways. It had been dogging a bit lately anyways.

172 165
172 150

After i got the 150 I went backwards back around to check my work and got the same numbers again.
But the wierd thing was on all but the drivers rear cylinder I had a different kinda huffing noise.
I thought about it a bit and reinstalled the plugs, wires and injectors, started it up and it was bucking and chugging and freaking out at idle. CEL was on for a sec then it went out under load and i thought it was ok so I went for a drive, It was a bad idea. CEL starts flashing and going nuts, car is not happy and sounds like @$$

I'm thinking bent or broken valve? but why would the compression still be fine on that cyl when the 150 was the opposite side?

Am I totally screwed? I can turn an wrench and do teh mechanical side of a swap but the dynamics of an internal combustion engine still baffle me...
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Last edited by dome24; 10-02-2010 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:22 AM   #2
dome24
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I did run cat-less for awhile and am thinking maybe the lack of backpressure helped this failure along?
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:39 PM   #3
yarrgh
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Sure you plugged everything up correctly? I've forgotten to connect a spark plug wire after a compression test.
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:54 PM   #4
dome24
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Yes, I triple checked my wires and they were all on tight both plug side and coil side.
And on the injectors, j just unplugged them from he harness for the test and plugged them back in after.
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:21 PM   #5
Wrencher86
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Are you sure you didn't crack a plug when you put them back in? The flat four engine design makes changing plugs a little awkward. If you take them back out look for cracks. Also look for any dark lines on the side of the plugs. It's called carbon tracking and it happen when the spark finds a way to go down the side of the plug instead of through the electrode. If that happens you need new plugs and wires as the arc burns a trail on both that can't be fixed.
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Old 10-02-2010, 01:35 AM   #6
formula91
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ib4backpressurenazis
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Old 10-02-2010, 07:34 PM   #7
dome24
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OPERATOR FAIL!!!

My tester has a small extension that came off after the first cyl test, that's what te rushing noise was. Installed the plug into the extension instead of the actual head.

Removed the plug and it all came out as one piece, installed new plugs all around and it runs like before. Still ticking and pizzin oil but no more misfires.
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Old 10-02-2010, 07:46 PM   #8
181stLeader
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Yeah that would do it. I cant imagine it would run well like that.
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:54 AM   #9
grafton
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that's one hell of an "anti-fouler" lol
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