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Old 10-04-2010, 05:32 PM   #1
cvalianos02
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Default Grinding noise when shifting into 4th gear? Help

I have an 02 wrx and when im shifting into 4th gear it grinds or clicks and it only does that when i shift into that gear no other gear does that...any thoughts of what that could be?
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:35 PM   #2
SubaruWrxNewb
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Years of use. Maybe a bad synchro?
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:39 PM   #3
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Years of use. Maybe a bad synchro?
That's what it is. That means if you have it open change 3 and 5 as well, or look for a good used trans.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:41 PM   #4
cvalianos02
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How much do you think this will cost me to change that in those gears?
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:41 PM   #5
3rdsubaru
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bad syncros bro.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:45 PM   #6
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Probably the synchronizer on that gear is dead if thats the only gear doing it. That would be a transmission rebuild if that is the problem. I had a car with a 6 speed that would only grind into 3 and 4, other gears were fine. That problem was the synchros on 3 and 4 were dead. I think it was $800 to replace those two synchros on that car, most of that is labor. Transmission rebuilds are not to be tackled by the faint of heart.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:53 PM   #7
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Try a quality lube for starters. Search around here. Plenty of guys band-aid it for awhile with new fluids.
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:00 PM   #8
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Absolutely have the trans fluid swapped out, use the OEM Subaru Extra-S.

That stuff is hard to find, so take it (I rarely recommend this) to your local dealer and have them swap out the fluid.

The 5MT trans is a bit touchy in these cars, my 5th gear will sometimes feel slightly crunchy in hot weather when the trans fluid gets really warm....cooler weather and its like velvet.

Swap out the fluid, if that doesn't do it...get ready for a trans rebuild.
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:06 PM   #9
cvalianos02
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All right ill swap out the fluid and if that doesnt work i guess I better start working a lot to get it rebuilt
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:08 PM   #10
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All right ill swap out the fluid and if that doesnt work i guess I better start working a lot to get it rebuilt
I bet the fluid will do the trick for awhile.
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:18 PM   #11
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My 4th gear syncro was replaced under warranty in my '02.

When going from 3rd to 4th try this: clutch in, move gear selector from 3rd to neutral, release clutch, push clutch back in and move gear selector to 4th. With a little practice you will be able to do the gear change without a crunch. Same thing when going from 5th to 4th, except you will need to blip the gas while the clutch is out and shifter is in neutral. For the downshifts, I'd just go straight to 3rd, though.
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:47 PM   #12
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Oh the old doubleclutch...its been a LONG time since I drove anything without synchros in it...
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:55 PM   #13
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I had the same issue. Changed to Redline Lightweight Shockproof and Motul300 per Andrewtech's recommendation. Car shifts mint now, no problems whatsoever.
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toph View Post
I had the same issue. Changed to Redline Lightweight Shockproof and Motul300 per Andrewtech's recommendation. Car shifts mint now, no problems whatsoever.
+1
This is what i did too
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:42 PM   #15
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Do they have this Redline Lightweight Shockproof and Motul300 per Andrewtech's at the dealership to change it?
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:43 PM   #16
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why scare the guy. he doesnt need a expensive rebuild unless the sound bothers him. ive had a 4th gear grind for 80000 miles and still no issues. im also on stock clutch at 115000 miles. like others have said, change your fluids religiously and or double clutch going into the gear and you will be fine.
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:59 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvalianos02 View Post
Do they have this Redline Lightweight Shockproof and Motul300 per Andrewtech's at the dealership to change it?
I don't know I bought mine online and changed it my self. Mine would grind at higher rpms going into 4th and once in awhile going into 1st when not at a dead stop. Both went away after new fluid

here's a good how to if you want to do it yourself
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/powert...id-change.html
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:41 PM   #18
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I run the OEM Extra S. I've noticed that the 3rd and 4th gear grind is very temperature dependent. Some days it's like buttah, other days not so much. Btw, check grimmspeed or fred bean's parts for gear oils. They usually have great selections and prices.
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toph View Post
I had the same issue. Changed to Redline Lightweight Shockproof and Motul300 per Andrewtech's recommendation. Car shifts mint now, no problems whatsoever.
What was the mix/ratio for those again?

I may try that cocktail if I swap my fluid out for new OEM fliud and my 5th gear grind in hot weather persists.

Stuff like that annoys the bejeezus out of me.
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Old 10-05-2010, 01:14 PM   #20
toph
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Originally Posted by parabellum9x19 View Post
What was the mix/ratio for those again?

I may try that cocktail if I swap my fluid out for new OEM fliud and my 5th gear grind in hot weather persists.

Stuff like that annoys the bejeezus out of me.
Buy 3QT of Redline and 1QT of Motul, (4QT of Redline if you're going to change the rear end). Put in almost 3 full quarts of Redline, saving just about an inch or less of the last quart. Dump in the full quart of Motul. Make sure you clean off all the crap on the drain plug, no gaskets or anything on this one like on the engine drain plug. I believe the tranny takes 3.8QT's or right around there. Best way to get it in there is to buy a funnel that can screw on to the top of the bottle. They had one at Advanced Auto and I think I paid like 6 or 7 bucks.

I bought my mix from AndrewTech the first time but it was pricey ($88 bucks shipped). This time I ordered the same thing off of Amazon and it was like $83 shipped, but I got an extra quart of Redline.

Good luck, if you have any more questions shoot me a PM.
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Old 10-05-2010, 03:07 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toph View Post
Buy 3QT of Redline and 1QT of Motul, (4QT of Redline if you're going to change the rear end). Put in almost 3 full quarts of Redline, saving just about an inch or less of the last quart. Dump in the full quart of Motul. Make sure you clean off all the crap on the drain plug, no gaskets or anything on this one like on the engine drain plug. I believe the tranny takes 3.8QT's or right around there. Best way to get it in there is to buy a funnel that can screw on to the top of the bottle. They had one at Advanced Auto and I think I paid like 6 or 7 bucks.

I bought my mix from AndrewTech the first time but it was pricey ($88 bucks shipped). This time I ordered the same thing off of Amazon and it was like $83 shipped, but I got an extra quart of Redline.

Good luck, if you have any more questions shoot me a PM.
And how did you like the results?

I"m torn between trying this easy DIY, and just having the dealer swap in the OEM fluid.
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Old 10-05-2010, 03:48 PM   #22
toph
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And how did you like the results?

I"m torn between trying this easy DIY, and just having the dealer swap in the OEM fluid.
The results were great. No more grind (more notchyness than a grind), and could go into 1st at like 10-15mph which I could never do before.

If you're going to swap this fluid in yourself, why would you pay the dealer to swap in OEM fluid? It's the same procedure, without mixing 2 fluids. I believe on your car, if it is an 08, you will have to get a T70 torx bit, they can be had on amazon for like $5.
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Old 10-05-2010, 04:00 PM   #23
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Quote:
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The results were great. No more grind (more notchyness than a grind), and could go into 1st at like 10-15mph which I could never do before.

If you're going to swap this fluid in yourself, why would you pay the dealer to swap in OEM fluid? It's the same procedure, without mixing 2 fluids. I believe on your car, if it is an 08, you will have to get a T70 torx bit, they can be had on amazon for like $5.
Well, you sold me, I just ordered 3 quarts of RL light shockproof and one of Motul 300.

And I have a fluid extractor, I can suck all the trans fluid out through the dipstick hole and never have to crawl under the car at all.

OH, and the only reason I was considering letting the dealer do it, was because I can't get the Extra-S fluid ANYWHERE...but ****, they want $200 for the job, so forget that, I'll DIY it.
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Old 10-05-2010, 04:16 PM   #24
toph
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parabellum9x19 View Post
Well, you sold me, I just ordered 3 quarts of RL light shockproof and one of Motul 300.

And I have a fluid extractor, I can suck all the trans fluid out through the dipstick hole and never have to crawl under the car at all.

OH, and the only reason I was considering letting the dealer do it, was because I can't get the Extra-S fluid ANYWHERE...but ****, they want $200 for the job, so forget that, I'll DIY it.
I personally wouldn't ever use a fluid extractor, but that's just me. Just put the car up on ramps, it will probably be quicker.
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Old 10-05-2010, 04:20 PM   #25
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I personally wouldn't ever use a fluid extractor, but that's just me. Just put the car up on ramps, it will probably be quicker.
Mercedes factory techs use them every day, have for 30 years.

I did every single fluid change on my last BMW with an extractor (trans and engine oil), over 80,000 miles and never had a single problem.

The key to making sure an extractor is safe, especially for oil changes is to STILL pull the drain plug after you extract, and see what is left....if its measurable, you should not use the extractor.

But in the case of my BMW, what was left post extraction was less than a table spoon of fluids.

They are pretty safe IF you know how to make sure they work for the specific application.

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