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Old 10-04-2010, 05:46 PM   #1
Baconsnake
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Default I'm thinking I might not have used ScratchX correctly...

I was trying to get rid of some fingernail scratches by my door handles, so I got some scratchX to correct it. (BTW, farking fingernail scratches, how do they work?!)

Right when I did it, it looked great! But now when I look at it, it looks really scratchy. They are fairly light, and I only see them under certain lighting. Do I need to get some SwirlX to take care of the ScratchX?

Noob here, obviously, but I was hoping that I didn't screw something up and it can get corrected fairly easily.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:51 PM   #2
3rdsubaru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baconsnake View Post
I was trying to get rid of some fingernail scratches by my door handles, so I got some scratchX to correct it. (BTW, farking fingernail scratches, how do they work?!)

Right when I did it, it looked great! But now when I look at it, it looks really scratchy. They are fairly light, and I only see them under certain lighting. Do I need to get some SwirlX to take care of the ScratchX?

Noob here, obviously, but I was hoping that I didn't screw something up and it can get corrected fairly easily.
always use a circular motion when trying to remove scratches with scratch X. no back and forth or you may eat away all the clear coat.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:53 PM   #3
Baconsnake
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Originally Posted by 3rdsubaru View Post
always use a circular motion when trying to remove scratches with scratch X. no back and forth or you may eat away all the clear coat.
I probably used a more oblong motion, but since it was just above the handle I had limited room. I didn't see any black on my microfiber towel, so hopefully I didn't blow through the clear.
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:50 PM   #4
bdpAKAknox
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hmm, im not sure if scratchX is aggressive enough to do significant clear damage by hand. Sounds like it made of produced some RIDS though, possibly try a less aggressive polish to take them down.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:34 PM   #5
Denneghy
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I have a hairline scratch across my hood. Its barley visible in sunlight. I think I might use swirlx if that doesnt work try the scratchx. Can anybody confirm that scratchx wont eat the clear coat?
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:48 PM   #6
Kilo6_one
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what kind of towel did you use?
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:55 PM   #7
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Scratch X has to be used on a completely clean surface with a clean microfiber towel. If you follow those instructions and always use a circular motion, there is no possible way it will eat the clear coat.

I have used it almost after every wash to get rid of clear coat scratches. Some scratches need multiple applications, but after some time, they disappear as well. I absolutely love Scratch X ,
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulltimeW.O.T. View Post
Scratch X has to be used on a completely clean surface with a clean microfiber towel. If you follow those instructions and always use a circular motion, there is no possible way it will eat the clear coat.

I have used it almost after every wash to get rid of clear coat scratches. Some scratches need multiple applications, but after some time, they disappear as well. I absolutely love Scratch X ,
Cool. Do you think I should use scratch x or swirl x? The scratch on my hood is barley visible in sunlight. I can't even feel it with my fingernail. But the bastard is like 18 inches long. So do you just apply the scratch x rub it in till its fading away right?
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denneghy View Post
Cool. Do you think I should use scratch x or swirl x? The scratch on my hood is barley visible in sunlight. I can't even feel it with my fingernail. But the bastard is like 18 inches long. So do you just apply the scratch x rub it in till its fading away right?
just use scratch x for that. Wash the hood real good. Dont wax. Fold a microfiber towel into 4 quarters to get a smaller pad. Apply a decent amount. I usually do 2 dabs at a time on to the towel. Start on one end of scratch, using circular motion, work to the other end of scratch. Keep going back and forth using circular motion until the white and residue from the scratch X completely disappears. As soon as you see a buffing effect (area of application starts becoming polished) turn towel over to clean side, lightly buff using circular motion. Repeat whole application as many times as needed.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulltimeW.O.T. View Post
just use scratch x for that. Wash the hood real good. Dont wax. Fold a microfiber towel into 4 quarters to get a smaller pad. Apply a decent amount. I usually do 2 dabs at a time on to the towel. Start on one end of scratch, using circular motion, work to the other end of scratch. Keep going back and forth using circular motion until the white and residue from the scratch X completely disappears. As soon as you see a buffing effect (area of application starts becoming polished) turn towel over to clean side, lightly buff using circular motion. Repeat whole application as many times as needed.
Cool thanks.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:16 PM   #11
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Without seeing a picture, it sounds like Bacon is seeing micromarring from the scratchX abrasives. Either that or some contamination caught between the paint and the applicator for his ScratchX. And now that I think about it, the micromarring may be finger tracers that can happen when people polish(or sand) by hand without using even pressure(or in the case of sanding an interface pad/block)

This really is a testimony to the softness of Subaru paint and for reference, SwirlX is a more mild product than ScratchX and in reality could have probably been used by itself to remove the scratches, Subaru paint is that soft..
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:19 PM   #12
fulltimeW.O.T.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoAesthetica View Post
Without seeing a picture, it sounds like Bacon is seeing micromarring from the scratchX abrasives. Either that or some contamination caught between the paint and the applicator for his ScratchX. And now that I think about it, the micromarring may be finger tracers that can happen when people polish(or sand) by hand without using even pressure(or in the case of sanding an interface pad/block)

This really is a testimony to the softness of Subaru paint and for reference, SwirlX is a more mild product than ScratchX and in reality could have probably been used by itself to remove the scratches, Subaru paint is that soft..
I agree with you on the softer paint issue. I had the same exact feeling, and tried swirl x before ever buying scratch x. I remember swirl x not taking anything off.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:28 PM   #13
Baconsnake
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I used a clean microfiber towel (large size folded many times to have a small surface area, so I think it was fairly even application), but I might not have cleaned the area so well... I think I am going to try SwirlX and see if that will smooth it out.

I wonder if I let the towel get too dry before I reapplied the polish. It seemed to be soaking it up fairly quickly.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:37 PM   #14
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Were the little scratches almost exactly in the direction you were working your product? Or was it just a general haze?
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:41 PM   #15
Baconsnake
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Really more of a general haze, but clearly where I was using it. There were fingernail scratches all along the top of the handle, so it was a fairly broad area.
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Old 10-05-2010, 05:26 PM   #16
Kean
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A couple of notes here…. Scratch-X will not “eat” anything. However, it is abrasive and will abrade the clear coat either softening the appearance or removing the blemish(es) you are trying to correct. Also, Scratch-X (v2.0 that has been out for a while) is not a diminishing abrasive. It is derived from the same non-diminishing SMAT (Super Micro Abrasive Technology) formulation as M105, M205, Ultimate Compound and Swirl-X. Unlike a diminishing abrasive (like Meguiars MDAT products), their SMAT polishes don’t break down and therefore do not require to be “worked in” until the polish changes appearance, etc. You simply use them until the desired result is achieved. Having said that, like most polishes they do have a “work time” or a point at where the product (carrier oils, etc.) will dry out. You don’t want to reach that limit. It is better to apply, remove, assess and then re-apply if needed.

I would wager the issue is exactly what AutoAesthetica is describing. Subaru paint is soft and it simply may require a follow up with a lighter finishing polish like Swirl-X. Scratch-X may finish out well by machine and perhaps even by hand in some cases, but there are other situations where I could see that it might leave the micro-marring you describe.

….and just to clarify, if RIDS (Random Isolated Deep Scratches) were an issue after application, they would likely be caused by a foreign object in your applicator (i.e. dirt, grit, etc.) and not by the product itself. I see someone mentioned this earlier and wanted to clear up any confusion. Usually the issue is “micro-marring” that is caused by the abrasiveness of the product, applicator, technique or a combination of factors.
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:13 PM   #17
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Probably was from the towel or pad you used, not the actual scratch X.
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Probably was from the towel or pad you used, not the actual scratch X.
....doubt it. I would still bet it's micro-marring from the Scratch-X. Even with v1 I could notice the product didn't finish that well by hand. ....I suppose well enough for some perhaps. By machine, it's a different story. Even with Ultimate Compound, I was quite surprised how well it finished off by DA.
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