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Old 08-27-2010, 03:12 PM   #1
onemoresti
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Default Thicker HG with Pauter rods?

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Last edited by onemoresti; 09-10-2010 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 08-27-2010, 03:14 PM   #2
onemoresti
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Does anyone have any experience with these rods being too long? What thickness HG do I need?
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Old 08-27-2010, 03:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onemoresti View Post
Soooo now the choices are, A) Remove engine and buy thicker HG's; or B) Remove engine and swap stock rods from old SB into new SB using OEM HG's

I'm only running a Green right now and I don't plan on making 600hp with this car, although I do plan on upgrading the turbo.
LOL there is a lot more to just "swapping" the rods. Besides why not have pauter rods in the car?

You have bearings to deal with, more seals, etc

Either way the heads have to come off, wouldn't it just be easier to install to thicker headgaskets?

That being said I have never built a Subaru engine with Pauters but here is there length is 5.135 (shorter) and other rods (eagle, manley) are 5.137. Therefore standard headgasket should work as long as the right rod was used and not the NA rod which is a 5.180
Call Pauter 619-422-5384

Also ask the guy who sold you the engine for the part number of the rod he used
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Old 08-27-2010, 03:33 PM   #4
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Does anyone have any experience with these rods being too long? What thickness HG do I need?
Which Pauter rods do you have? if you have the longer 'off the shelf' rods, you should have KNOWN before you slapped the heads on. Then the proper compression height pistons should have been used.

Sounds like someone didn't know what they were doing in the shortblock or when assembling the long block.

I won't even ask what the dremel was used for in regards to the valve lash...if clearancing cams, gotcha.
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Old 08-27-2010, 03:37 PM   #5
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I called Pauter. They said there are 2 rods that they sell primarily for the 2.0,2.2,and 2.5, 1 is 1mm longer and that is about how much is sticking up past the cylinder. The engine builder who originally assembled the motor said he's going to trying to find the invoice from the build(2yrs ago) with all the part #s, but until then I'm just stuck waiting. The seller does not have any helpful numbers either
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Old 08-27-2010, 03:38 PM   #6
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I won't even ask what the dremel was used for in regards to the valve lash...if clearancing cams, gotcha.
Probably just used it to grind down the buckets a bit
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Old 08-27-2010, 03:43 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
Which Pauter rods do you have? if you have the longer 'off the shelf' rods, you should have KNOWN before you slapped the heads on. Then the proper compression height pistons should have been used.

Sounds like someone didn't know what they were doing in the shortblock or when assembling the long block.

I won't even ask what the dremel was used for in regards to the valve lash...if clearancing cams, gotcha.
LOL I took a dremel to the inside of a couple of the intake buckets to get the right clearance because the dealer didn't have the parts in stock. I have since removed said buckets and ordered the right parts from Subaru. I thought it was worth a try, but I've since been educated...
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Old 08-27-2010, 04:50 PM   #8
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if you had piston to head contact all the rod brgs are compromised so the block needs to be completely torn apart and rebearinged.If the pistons were sticking up out of the cylinder SOMEBODY SHOULD HAVE CAUGHT THIS. enuff said.
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Old 08-27-2010, 06:02 PM   #9
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Probably just used it to grind down the buckets a bit
yes, which are surface hardened
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Old 08-27-2010, 06:04 PM   #10
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If the pistons were sticking up out of the cylinder SOMEBODY SHOULD HAVE CAUGHT THIS. enuff said.
Sticking out isn't an issue if you have the HG still leaving sufficient quench height.

I do agree on the rod bearings if that is the given scenario.
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Old 08-27-2010, 06:31 PM   #11
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^^^no I agree its not an issue if someone caught it and used the appropriate hd gskt for it.
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Old 08-28-2010, 08:18 AM   #12
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What valves are you using? Stock? If so I think I would try to get them checked/replace them as well. If you are going for big hp, slight bend in a valve could mean the difference in it coming apart or not.
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Old 08-28-2010, 02:23 PM   #13
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not good. sounds like starting over. let us know if we can help!

putting a dremel to your head if like pulling a knife on a baby. you were trying to adjust the height of the bucket for valve clearence? that would be an example of lack of patience.

i can't get my charcoal grill to light...anybody have any napalm?

i'm just joking around of course...lets get her fixed!

the engine builders i have spoken with do not like to use thicker headgaskets.
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Old 08-28-2010, 02:39 PM   #14
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Thicker gaskets are fine. If you can wait til Monday I can Pm you the part number to the gaskets we use on all the pauter 2.5 motors we have done. They do stick up slightly past the bore, but with the right gaskets and valve clearance(piston dependent) its a great setup. I have few cars making over 550whp with this setup for 15k+ miles.

Jr
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Old 08-28-2010, 02:40 PM   #15
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well there you go.
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Old 08-28-2010, 03:21 PM   #16
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I didn't take a dremel to the head! It was just a couple thousandths out of the inside of 2 of the intake buckets which have since been removed and the correct parts ordered. The engine builder finally got back with me with the right gasket...Cometic .051" is what was used originally. The piston comes up about .045" out of the bore. Valves are good, heads are good. The only thing I'm a little concerned about is the rod bearings. I've heard both sides..."should be ok" and "your bearings must be fukd".
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Old 08-28-2010, 03:41 PM   #17
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Wow, .006 piston to head clearance? And that's assuming the compressed height Cometic gives you is honest. Now take your rod/main cearsnce and subtract them from your piston/head clearance (not to mention the piston rocks around the axis of the wrist pin.) Sounds like a banging build.
You need to tear it down, replace bearings and un**** your clearances!
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Old 08-28-2010, 03:50 PM   #18
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i can now see what you were attempting with trimming the bucket...
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Old 10-10-2010, 09:11 AM   #19
onemoresti
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I elected to tear it all down and replace the bearings. Also, after talking with the machine shop, I also removed the Pauter rods and installed stock rods so I would be able to run OE HG's and provide acceptable piston to head clearance. The engine is back together and has been running smooth for over a month now.

I'm now in the process of building another short block. This has been an expensive, stressful learning experience. The next motor I run will be one that I have build from the ground up, with all the parts that "I" want. On that note, if anyone knows of anybody needing a set of Pauter rods, I have a set for sale. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2067921
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