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Old 10-06-2010, 08:01 PM   #1
79tranny
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Default 1994 SVX auto trans problems

Hopefully this is the right place to post this, I don't think this car is considered into the old school part yet.. just bought it yesterday for a daily beater.

ok so bought a 94 svx H6 150K miles. when I bought it I was told it goes to 4grand before shifting into 2nd gear. besides that its fine.

well after a day of driving it here's whats going on. Small exhaust leak right under me, and taking off from a stop whether the pedal is to the floor or not even at %15 throttle, the car takes off like a dog and sputters and hesitates, it does this until about 3 grand then it kicks up normally..misfiring? I thought maybe a TPS at first but I dont know.

4 times when coming to a stop the car stalled out. and when I'd start it back up and put it in drive with my foot on the brake the car would stall.. so the torque converter seems to be locking up. also when I'm sitting at a light and its running it kinda bucks forward like its trying to move, I feel the whole car shake real quick a few times at the light.

The check engine light is on, I have NO CLUE how to check it on an OBDI car. I'm gonna do some research on that after posting this.

my problem right now is that it goes to about 4500 and when I let off the gas and hit it again it'll shift. OVERDRIVE will not engage, 60mph I'm at 4500rpms.

I think thats all I can think of for symptoms as of now.. please give advice if you have any!! I don't want to keep using the wrx for work and I want to keep this car, I only paid 1000 for it
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:15 PM   #2
Jessekrs123
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Here is a video I made on OBDI Subies and diagnostics. Hope this helps, your CEL will point you in the right direction. I did this on my Legacy I used to have, it should be the same for your SVX.
Link to codes : http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

Last edited by Jessekrs123; 10-06-2010 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:30 PM   #3
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just ran out there to see if I can get to those wires without removing the cover.. well I guess thats a bad time to find out theres an aftermarket alarm wired in and all ziptied at that spot.

tomorrow after work I'll bring tools home and take the lower dash cover off... and when I do theres gonna be just those 4 clips just hanging out not plugged into anything huh?
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:35 PM   #4
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Yes, the green wires are for the diagnostics, the black wires are for the memory, ignore the black wires. The green ones are what you need to plug in, keep the memory ones unplugged. With only the green ones in, your CEL will flash you codes. With only the memory ones in, it will give your past CELs. With them both plugged in, you will remove any current CELs, DON'T DO THAT untill you know whats wrong. Once you fix the problem the CELs should go away automatically so you shouldn't have to worry about removing them using the memory wires.
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:42 PM   #5
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Thank you very much. I've been losing my mind all day cause of this thing. took me 3 hours to get home!

your help and video is very much appreciated
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:44 PM   #6
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When you figure out the CELs report back here, we'll see where to go from there.
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:46 PM   #7
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will do. I'll be posting back tomorrow night after work.

thanks again
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:12 PM   #8
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you sure its the same on my car?

I can't find one clip under there that just hanging. everywhere I search says something about a 'check engine light wire'?? that you have to jump?
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:13 PM   #9
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think i figured it out.. will go check now....
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:31 PM   #10
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okay here are the codes:

32 - 02 sensor 1 (RH) Inoperative

37 - 02 sensor (LH) Inop.

34 - EGR solenoid Inop

24 - Bypass air control solenoid valve inop

28 - Knock sensor Abnormal voltage

56 - EGR System

23 - Air Flow Sensor


Not really worried about the emmissions because in MA anything older than 96 does not need to pass emmissions.. But is there a way of keeping the check engine light off even with EGR problems?

so two -2 sensors and a MAF is looking like what I need!
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79tranny View Post
okay here are the codes:

32 - 02 sensor 1 (RH) Inoperative

37 - 02 sensor (LH) Inop.

34 - EGR solenoid Inop

24 - Bypass air control solenoid valve inop

28 - Knock sensor Abnormal voltage

56 - EGR System

23 - Air Flow Sensor


Not really worried about the emmissions because in MA anything older than 96 does not need to pass emmissions.. But is there a way of keeping the check engine light off even with EGR problems?

so two -2 sensors and a MAF is looking like what I need!
Wow, thats a mouthfull. With the o2 sensors, I would just check to see if they are plugged in, if not plug them in and see if those codes go away. If not I would recommend replacing them so you don't end up running rich or lean and bring possible damage to your engine.

EGR isn't very important, see if the valve thing is stuck, give it a little push.

Bypass air control valve is one of the reasons why you were stalling out. Definitely figure out what is wrong with that, whether it is a bad part or just disconnected, your car will idle like crap and keep stalling out unless you address that problem.

The knock sensor is also very important, I believe that the SVXs came with 2, so figure out which one is giving you problems and replace it. You don't want your car to be unaware of possible harmful detonation.

The airflow sensor must also be addressed and can explain why you were stalling out and would also explain the sputtering.
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:07 PM   #12
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but which one do would you think addresses the trans not shifting until high rpms?

Probably none of them huh? Maybe just the valve body is getting clogged..
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79tranny View Post
but which one do would you think addresses the trans not shifting until high rpms?

Probably none of them huh? Maybe just the valve body is getting clogged..
It could be that, the power from these motors put those transmissions through ridiculous stress, all SVX trannies are bad. I'm not 100% familiar with SVXs, but is there a power light on the dash? If so is it on or blinking? You can diagnose that light just like a CEL and see what it spits out for your tranny.
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:14 PM   #14
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the power light is for the tranny?

it has the light and it only went on when i floored it.. and when i did the car went to 7grand and redlined until i got off the pedal.. it didnt shift or anything
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:54 PM   #15
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Yes, the power light is for the transmission. All older automatic subarus have the power light. From what I understand it cuts power from the accessories and whatnot and frees up a little power. If it is only on under heavy accel, thats normal, but if it stays on all the time then you can diagnose the light like a CEL. But who knows, it's an SVX, that tranny has seen better days.
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:14 PM   #16
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Looking at all those codes my guess would be a bad ground. Most of the major circuts share grounds so that when it goes bad it effects a lot of things. Clean your battery ground and any other you see. IIRC there is a pretty major one on the front of the vehicle by the radiator core support. I know when it is removed or corroded it will cause a lot problems.

Also the one effecting the trans is probably the MAF circut. The TCU intercepts this signal so it can see how aggressive you are driving. It also monitors the TPS. If it sees a lot of air moving in the engine or that the TPS is beyond a certain range for normal driving it will hold the line pressure in the trans to change the shift points for a more aggressive driving experience.

Good luck.
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:28 PM   #17
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thanks for all the tips. I have a long weekend ahead of myself. i'm gonna try looking up the wiring schematics and see if any of these are connected by a ground and if so, where it;s located. but until i find the time for that I'll check all the noticable ones and clean them as well as make sure everything is plugged in

I will report with more info when I find out more

Thanks again!
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Old 10-09-2010, 01:37 PM   #18
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just a visual look and removing plastics I can't find any bad gounds. theres no corrosion or rusting on anything on the engine. according to some wiring diags I found the MAF is grounded through the right center rear of the block? which I couldn't find. But the VSS and PCM shar that ground, so I think I'd have more problems if that ground was bad.

02 sensors are plugged in as well

http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Sub...NG%20DIAGRAMS/
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Old 10-09-2010, 02:52 PM   #19
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just took the car for another ride.. cel wasn't on, it took off better. stayed at 4 grand in 1st gear until i go off the pedal tapped it again and it dropped to about 2800. then when coming back I was in what felt like 2nd or 3rd gear and the car downshifted on its own to 1st gear and stayed until I got off the pedal and touched it again..

also the car's idle would jump from 700ish to 1000 when slowing down to a stop and it would do that for a little while.

I'm really leaning towards a new MAF. shouldn't there be a way I can test the resistance and such in the sensor itself to see if its good or bad? or even the connector from the wiring harness to make sure I'm getting the correct power?
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Old 10-10-2010, 01:03 PM   #20
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bump.
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Old 10-10-2010, 03:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79tranny View Post
just took the car for another ride.. cel wasn't on, it took off better. stayed at 4 grand in 1st gear until i go off the pedal tapped it again and it dropped to about 2800. then when coming back I was in what felt like 2nd or 3rd gear and the car downshifted on its own to 1st gear and stayed until I got off the pedal and touched it again..

also the car's idle would jump from 700ish to 1000 when slowing down to a stop and it would do that for a little while.

I'm really leaning towards a new MAF. shouldn't there be a way I can test the resistance and such in the sensor itself to see if its good or bad? or even the connector from the wiring harness to make sure I'm getting the correct power?
Sounds like your TPS. The automatic transmission will use the TPS as a guide to figure out when to shift, up-shift, down-shift depending on how much you push the pedal. That could also explain the oscillating idle. You can check for resistance on the sensor, depending on how many prongs you have on your TPS, its either 3 or 4, I'm guessing its 4 because thats what my OBDI subie has. Disconnect the TPS and set your multimeter to ohms, put the leads on prongs 3 & 4 and check for resistance. (or prongs 2 & 3 if it is a 3 prong) There should be continuity when the throttle is closed, then twist the throttle and with it twisted you should lose the continuity. If this checks out good, the next thing to look for is the TPS adjustment. At a point when the throttle is closed, the TPS will send a signal to the ECU and it will trip the idle switch. When the throttle is closed, idle switch goes on, when the throttle is open, idle switch goes off. I found some info here: http://www.svxworldforums.com/forum4/1401.html that could help you adjust your TPS to the correct voltage to ensure that your idle switch is going on when it has to and that the TPS isn't messing you idle up when you are not moving.
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Old 10-11-2010, 12:04 AM   #22
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To check your MAF sensor, you can just unplug it... if your car starts acting better, your MAF sensor isn't working that great.

When the MAF sensor on my car died I didn't have those issues though. Mine is OBD2 though.

Yes, the transmission uses a lot sensors the engine uses so if something is screwed up there it could screw with the transmission as well.
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Old 10-14-2010, 08:34 PM   #23
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I figured it would be the TPS too, the only thing that threw me off was that I got a code for the MAF and not the TPS. cause to my understanding the MAF only tells the pcm how rish or lean to run and the tps or a map sensor would determine the load on the engine. but I'm sure the MAF does the same as a map.

tomorrow after work I will check out the prongs on the tps and see what comes up
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:43 PM   #24
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I have no clue how the ecu determines load, but the MAF sensor tells it how much air is actually going into the engine, so I assume it's in there somewhere.

If you had the right cable you could datalog with a laptop, then you could monitor a bunch of the sensor easily (or at least what the ECU is seeing from them). Not a lot of people have the right setup.
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Old 10-15-2010, 04:42 PM   #25
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I know thats possible to monitor all the ecu sees on OBII as in with a tatrix cable.. but no clue how it'd be done on an OBDI car, I wish I could do that.

even with the CEL off and the car not hesitating or anything it still just won't shift
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