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Old 11-07-2010, 01:02 PM   #51
MARKSTIV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llamsn View Post
Did you look carefully at the rollers and both cones? Mine looked OK until I noticed the pitting. Have you also checked the bearing mounted in the tail shaft? Is there a lot of play with the roller bearings? I had a miniscule amount of play with the new roller bearings compared to the old ones. I didn't realize the amount of play with the old bearings until I had the new ones to compare them to.

Yes I checked every bearing for damage/excessive play, I also inspected visually the center diff and everything was in perfect shape. Then I thought that it had to be some bearing in the front diff or front part of the tranny and decided to replace the tranny with the 05 one I have(plus rear diff and everything else) but that wouldn't happen until the next week so I started to put everything together...

I remembered this thread http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1989734 (at the end) and I removed the metal plates in question completely

Also I remembered about somebody talking about mounting the driveshaft the right way, so this time I mounted it so the white stripe on the driveshaft is on the other side of the white and yellow dots on the rear diff mount(before I mounted it so that the white stripe on the driveshat is almost at the same spot a a white and yellow dots on the diff). I got the idea from installing the pressure plate where in order to balance the assembly with the fly wheel there are dots on the pressure plate and flywheel that need to be on opposite sides of each other.

Well guess what? My transmission is fixed!

Removing the metal plates was the fix for the crazy loud whining noise and mounting the driveshaft correctly got rid of the off throttle noise/grind that sounded like transfer gear bearings( diagnosed even by reputable subaru shop).

I still can't believe that such a small things were creating so much noise and problems but there's Subaru for ya. Imagine giving the car to the shop and few grand later the noise is still there because of 2 metal plates. I mean who would of think about that as a cause of noise??
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Old 11-07-2010, 01:53 PM   #52
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I'm glad to hear that it wasn't anything any more serious! Such an easy fix is always welcome!
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Old 11-07-2010, 02:16 PM   #53
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Ok, here are bunch more pics. They are in a logical order. I'll add captions as I can.

As many others have said, you are liable for your own actions. I am merely documenting steps that I took to replace my center diff bearings.

I began here:

Jackstands!
Drain tranny
Disconnect 2nd O2 sensor
Remove 2nd cat (2nd part of dp)




Drain the transmission. Notice fine metal particles on magnetic drain plug.



Largest metal chunk. Maybe 3-4 mm.



Drive shaft cover. Remove all 6 bolts. Nuts are welded on the top half of cover.

-There are 4 nuts and bolts that hold the drive shaft to the rear differential. It is helpful to have 2x 12mm open ended wrenches to take them off. Once the drive shaft has been broke loose from the rear diff plate, it will slide off of the transmission tail shaft (transfer driven gear).
-Mark the drive shaft for proper re-installation.



Remove the 3x bolts that hold the bracket to the rear of the transmission. The lower end of the bracket connects to the OEM down pipe (and some aftermarket).




Remove the bolt that connects the shift rod to the shift joint.



Tap out the two pins that connect the joint. A hammer and punch are necessary. After the pins have been removed, slide the joint off. Once the joint is off, the housing extension is clear to slide off. The silicone seal will probably need to be broken though. Be aware that ~1/5 of a quart or so of fluid may drain from the seal (see previous pic lowest bolt hole).



Transfer drive gear and transfer driven gear, respectively.



Notice roller deterioration.



The transfer driven gear sits in a cone and behind the cone sits an adjusting washer. The adjusting washer comes in multiple thicknesses. This should be considered and addressed if one is replacing the transfer driven gear, the transfer drive gear, or the case extension.



Inside the case. A bearing cone also sits inside of the transmission case. I removed the cone with a piece of wire that I bent to a 90 deg angle.

Notice all of the old silicone. The silicone should be thoroughly removed to maintain a proper seal. I ended up cleaning the surfaces a few times. Even after I had cleaned the surfaces off, I was surprised to see the amount of residue the camera flash revealed. So, I went back and cleaned the surface again.

Last edited by llamsn; 11-07-2010 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Updates!
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Old 11-07-2010, 02:17 PM   #54
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2



This is not really relevant, but this is a pic of the stay. I decided that if I was going to be under here, I was about due for a Kartboy shifter and bearings.



Pic of the stay bushing.



The bearing was pushed all the way on. I tapped the bearing off with a hammer and punch.



Center differential with roller bearing.



This bearing was fairly easy to tap off with a hammer and punch, but was a bit more time consuming. I suggest wrapping the beveled edge with something (like electrical tape) to avoid scratching the diff.



The Allen bolts are 6mm. Loosen them and remove the transfer drive gear with bearing.



All out.



In order to remove the bearing, the snap ring must first come off.



Snap ring taken off.



This is the other adjusting washer that could be easily overlooked. Again, consider measuring and replacing if you replace the transfer driven gear, transfer drive gear, and/or case extension.

Last edited by llamsn; 11-07-2010 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 11-07-2010, 02:18 PM   #55
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3

The following images are not quite in order yet.




Replace adjusting washer.



Replace snap ring.



Set outer bearing race in transmission case before installing center diff.



Install center diff.




I held the transfer driven gear up to get an idea of how it would fit around the center diff. Assembling the gears in the extension makes installation pretty easy.

After siliconing and replacing the extension, be sure not to tighten it completely. The silicone needs to partially cure before completely tightening the case. Follow the directions!



Just remember the adjusting washer before replacing the case extension.



Reattach joint.



Tap both pins back into joint.



Align drive shaft with rear differential.



Replace drive shaft cover.

Last edited by llamsn; 07-22-2011 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 11-07-2010, 02:19 PM   #56
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4



Reattach the linkage bracket.



Kartboy stay bushing.



Reconnect drive shaft



The filler tube is on the passenger side of the car, next to the turbo. The capacity is 3.7 quarts.



Refill with your favorite transmission fluid.

Last edited by llamsn; 11-07-2010 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:13 AM   #57
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I pulled out and replaced the four bearings in the transfer case this weekend. I am still in the process of assembling everything and waiting for the gasket/sealent to cure. I was very happy that the center differential looked to be in good condition. In fact none of the bearings really looked that bad and I was expecting to see much worse. The two outer cones on the transfer driven gear were a little pitted and the bearing attached to the extension case seemed a little gravelly. I am still wondering if my noise is something else, but I suppose I will find out shortly.
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:34 PM   #58
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I think you'l be surprised when you get it back to together and drive it again!
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:53 PM   #59
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so i dragged a friend over and made him wear a pair of gloves to tear down my trans. haha.

the deeper i went, the more debris i found. later on i discovered my ring and pinion were damaged on two teeth, assuming a chunk of metal got caught in that set of teeth and when it met, BANG.

but all my synchros, gears, and shift forks seem to be in check. but i broke two teeth off the transfer driven gear, and the bearings in the tail shaft are completely gone. all other bearings show no signs of play or pitting.

i have one question. how many diffs are there inside the transmission?

i'm gonna say one is the center differential and the other is an LSD? 03 5spd wrx.

i'm gonna be picking up a trans in jersey that has a bad 2nd gear synchro for pretty cheap, i'll just use it for parts.
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:55 PM   #60
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double post gayness.

Last edited by ohemgeeitsNiko; 11-08-2010 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:22 PM   #61
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The center diff is a viscous coupling and the front diff is open.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:29 PM   #62
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So i pulled my transfer case apart this weekend too.

1 bearing was kinda loose, nothing bad. Others looked fine. I had subaru press them for me, and I picked them up today.

The center diff seems looks (the gears them self i can move with my fingers...)

Also is everyones shifter linkage a little loose? Like pull it in and out like 1/4 of an inch?
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Old 11-09-2010, 09:10 AM   #63
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It sounds like the bushings are worn out as I don't have that much play in the shifter linkage. There are bushings in the trunion and shifter pivot. I replaced the shifter pivot bushings with TiC a while back. You could use their trunion bushings also, but they transmitted some vibration to the shifter in certain rpm ranges for me.
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Old 11-09-2010, 03:15 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llamsn View Post
I think you'l be surprised when you get it back to together and drive it again!
I finally buttoned everything up, refilled the transmission and took a test drive. The noise is gone! I am really surprised as the bearings I replaced just didn't look that bad.
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Old 11-09-2010, 03:29 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klinebau View Post
I finally buttoned everything up, refilled the transmission and took a test drive. The noise is gone! I am really surprised as the bearings I replaced just didn't look that bad.
That's great news. What was the noise you were hearing if you don't mind me asking? Whining?
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:17 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09rexwagon View Post
That's great news. What was the noise you were hearing if you don't mind me asking? Whining?
I was hearing a whining sound when driving over 35-40 mph. My issue was similar to what was reported in post #4, however the noise was much worse when in gear. The noise was faint, but still present when out of gear and coasting at higher speeds.
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:05 AM   #67
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okay, new issue with the new/donor trans. it's an 02, and my trans is an 03.

the guy i bought it from said the mechanic told him it had trouble going into 2nd gear at high rpm because the synchro was worn. i broke it down completely and after thoroughly inspecting all the synchros, everything looks fine.

the only thing i noticed was a little wear on the 5th/Reverse shift fork pad.

how exactly can i tell if the synchro is bad?
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Old 11-15-2010, 07:58 PM   #68
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Thanks for all the help everyone. I replaced the bearings this weekend and all is good! Only problem left is that nasty deceleration noise lol.
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:27 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by klinebau View Post
I finally buttoned everything up, refilled the transmission and took a test drive. The noise is gone! I am really surprised as the bearings I replaced just didn't look that bad.
Klinebau- Thats great news and thanks again for the heads up on this thread. I hope mine goes as well as yours, I'd rather do it myself as I am a college student working part time. What kind of hours did you put in? Time isn't that abundant either when your working and going to school.

llamsn- thanks for posting pictures, super helpful
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:06 AM   #70
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It was my first time working in that area of the car, so I took my time. It took me about four hours to remove everything and get to the transfer gears. It would have taken me about the same to pull and re-press the bearings and put it all back together, but I ran into a couple of snags. In my cold garage I couldn't get the intercooler pipe back on the turbo. I finally heated the hose with a hair dryer and it popped right on... should have done that in the first place. I also broke a bolt on one of the connections on the intercooler and had to drill and re-tap. That was a minor problem, but took some time. It also takes a while to fill the transmission and check the level, refill, etc.

Overall it is not hard work, but you should plan some extra time for the unexpected surprises.

At a high level here are the steps:
Drain transmission
Remove intercooler
Remove exhaust downpipe
Remove rear diff cover
Remove drive shaft
Remove transmission mount (support the transmission)
Remove shift linkage and stay
Remove extension case to access transfer gears and center diff
Press out old bearings and press in new bearings
Assemble in reverse order
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Old 11-19-2010, 02:26 PM   #71
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Thanks again Klinebau I think I'll give it a shot, my expertise is motorcycle engines but my brother has been working on cars for a long time so between the two of us I think we can get it done. I'll just be slow and methodical. Thanks for the tips.
One last question, where did you order your new bearings? I'm thinking i'll order all the possible bearings i'll need(assuming its just bearings to be replaced) and return what I don't use.
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Old 11-19-2010, 02:35 PM   #72
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Thank you for posting these pictures and comments llamsn, they should prove very helpful for my upcoming project. I had a couple questions:
Can you explain the "marking for proper drive shaft reinstallation"?
What did you use to press the new bearings?
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Old 12-28-2010, 01:15 PM   #73
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folks

if anyone is looking for this bearing set, i've got BNIB FS here:

bearing set for 5mt center diff / transfer case
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Old 12-28-2010, 04:02 PM   #74
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Thanks for the offer I might take you up on it. My mechanic is supposed to get back to me on when he can start working now that the holidays are over. I'll let you know
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:57 PM   #75
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For those of you that would rather pull your own bearings rather than take them in to a shop, I used the following kit from Harbor Freight. It was only $44 with the 20% off coupon. http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html

The only one it doesn't work for is the big bearing on the center diff. It comes off easily with a brass punch and hammer as noted earlier in this thread. Turns out the small bearing on my output shaft had a torn up inner race even though the rollers and cage looked fine. I had to cut the cage off and remove the rollers in order to see the issue.

Good luck!
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