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Old 06-17-2011, 12:27 AM   #76
spagez
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Thanks for this thread...im doing mine this saturday...
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Old 06-17-2011, 08:46 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spagez View Post
Thanks for this thread...im doing mine this saturday...
Feel free to ask any questions, I'll be around this weekend.
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:12 PM   #78
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Thanks for putting this thread together, it was very helpful.

I was getting a terrible whining noise at speed and would get binding after freeway driving from the center diff.

I replaced the four bearings, oil seal and center diff and now all is right in the world. =)

Great work!
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:27 PM   #79
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very well done... man that trans had no rust or dirt on it....fyi if anyone is doing this and wants to avoid swapping bearings or has wear on the transfer gears I still have a perfect set of gears with new bearings installed...pm me..cheers and nice thread.
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:59 AM   #80
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I finally got around to replace the viscous coupling and transfer gears today and just now realized that the ball bearing that was supposed to come out with my old viscous coupling is still in the transmission. How do I go about getting this thing out without having to take the center section of the transmission off?

Thanks for the gears btw, george.

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Old 09-24-2011, 04:41 PM   #81
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Eh, I got the inner race and the bearings out... Outer race is still in there. The 'claws' on my bearing puller are a bit too big to fit in the gap between the race and the housing.

My only idea now is to find a small file or plumbing saw and saw a gap in the race in order to pull it out..... Anyone have any less destructive ideas?

Edit: Oi, nevermind... Finally got it out

Last edited by Chunks; 09-24-2011 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:46 AM   #82
bcheck555
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For those that don't have a press. Dry ice, alcohol and a heat gun works well to put the bearings back on to the shafts.
Put the shaft in the alcohol and dry ice bath. Heat the bearing. Slide the bearing on.
I replaced my center diff, so I do not know how the center diff would work out, but the other three bearings where cake...
Sorry didn't think to take pics...
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:44 PM   #83
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Just wondering if the anyone knows if the parts are the same for 6MT sti? if not do you know what they are?
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:38 PM   #84
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Just replaced all four bearings on my 04 WRX. WOW! what a difference now. the car is so quiet and nice to drive. The fluid that was drained was in desperate need of a change. I was able to do this in my driveway on a Saturday afternoon, not very complicated at all. Also make sure you put the shims back before you replace the bearing races.

Last edited by Hanks; 04-09-2012 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:38 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subbygt View Post
Just wondering if the anyone knows if the parts are the same for 6MT sti? if not do you know what they are?
Here ya go.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...and_extension/
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:56 PM   #86
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Great post, thanks for putting up all the pics to make a diy. I'm having identical symptoms.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:52 AM   #87
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I just finished up replacing the four bearings and oil seal in my ’02 and it has cured the speed dependant whining noise I had coming from the transmission area. Thanks to this thread and the great pics for walking through the process. I just want to add a couple of notes, I referenced the part numbers in this thread when I got the new bearings and found that 2-3 of the bearings have been superseded by new part numbers. The new bearings are different but have the same inner and outer diameters – the new ones have smaller needle bearings and larger surfaces for the bearing to roll on. I wonder if the update is to address the longevity of the original pieces…? (My car had the center diff bearings replaced with the clutch and flywheel under warranty at 35k and this is the second time at 124k).

The pics and write-up above are great, but gloss over a couple of things that weren’t evident to me before I started working on the car:
• My car has an aftermarket one piece downpipe and it doesn’t need to be removed, you can work around the downpipe in place without issue (I don’t know if this is the case with the OEM two piece downpipe). However, you do need to remove the midpipe/resonator pipe that is right under the driveshaft. Don’t bother removing your intercooler and downpipe unless you really have to.
• You need to remove most of the transmission support brackets, I was able to leave the bracket that spans the tunnel towards the front of the car in place, but everything else had to come out. I used a jack and a jackstand to support the trans while the brackets were removed.
• I used gray permaseal sealant since my local Subaru dealer didn’t have any of their sealant on hand and I didn’t want to order it. It appears that the Subaru dealer that did the warranty work 7-8 years ago used the same stuff, there was no red sealant on the case.
• Splitting the case took awhile, the sealant really holds it together. I tried to use the shifter support assembly to lever the case off but it didn’t work. I resorted to several good whacks with a hammer and a 3/4” chisel to split them – always effective, just be careful!
• I called a local Subaru tuner/repair shop to get a quote for repairs. They prefer to replace the whole trans, citing there could be multiple things going on and they have seen a lot of trashed WRX transmissions. They would do the center diff bearings , but didn’t recommend it based on their experiences. Their advice was fair based on what they see, but knowing my trans is not beat on and the fluid has always been clean I questioned them about just the bearings. They quoted 1-2 hours of shop labor to press and pull the bearings for me – based on that quote I purchased the HF 20 ton shop press and bearing puller for about the same price as their labor. I have the room for the tools and they worked great, now I have the tools for other projects.
• The bearings that came out didn’t look too bad, certainly no pitting as bad as some of the pictures that were posted, however there was some minor pitting and play/resistance when spun by hand.
• I probably spent close to 12 hours from start to finish. This was in four sessions. This time may be a little high since I had to clean up my mess each time I stopped working – although I would budget this much time worst case, plus remember the sealant needs an hour to set up before you torque it down all the way. For me, this is how the work proceeded:
o 2 hrs – position car in garage, put up on jackstands, drain trans fluid, spray down all bolts with penetrating fluid (for those of you that drive your car in snow and salt), remove resonator midpipe, remove driveshaft cover, remove driveshaft
o 2 hrs - Remove transmission support brackets, remove exhaust bracket on the trans housing, remove the shifter support bracket, remove the shift linkage ( you probably don’t have to remove this completely, you can leave it dangling by the bushing and shifter rod, I only removed it in order to use it as leverage to split the case – but that didn’t work, don’t remove it if you don’t have to)
o 4 hrs – remove the bolts from the center diff housing, work the housing off, pull and press all bearings and oil seal, clean up the housing, clean up the gasket surfaces, apply gasket material, wait 30-60 minutes, torque down housing bolts
o 4 hrs – double check torque on housing bolts, install shifter linkage and support bracket, install exhaust bracket, install trans support brackets, install driveshaft, install exhaust, double check everything is torqued, refill trans, run the car through the gears on jack stands to let the trans warm up and get fluid in all the nooks and crannys, check gear oil level, lower car, test drive.
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:27 AM   #88
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nice, kingbean
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:12 PM   #89
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I'm currently replacing these four bearings as well. I bought the bearings from my local dealer, all updated part numbers. Got most of my info from this thread, but was a little concerned that no one was checking the assembly clearances. I'm a machinist by trade, so figured I would check them out just for piece of mind.

The center diff checked out fine, at .008" clearance. (I think spec was .0059" - .0139")

The output shaft (with the tapered bearings on each end) was a different story. This was a difficult thing to get an accurate measurement on, as the shaft is pretty long and has to be stood up completely straight in the bearing cup inside the transfer case. I'm working on a tranny that is out of the car, so I stood it up on two 2X4s on the bell housing, which helped. Measurement kept coming up between .005" and .007" interference.

Thinking I must be doing something wrong, I put my spacer back in and dry fit the two cases, snugged two bolts, I even hit the output shaft with a rubber mallet to make sure everything was seated. Sure enough, I had zero movement on the shaft. I shined a light between the cases and proved that they were not seating together.

So i'm going to take my spacer to work Monday and grind it from .035" down to .019", but the moral of this (rather long) story is that even Subaru replacement bearings are NOT garaunteed to put the system into proper clearance. Beware.
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:37 PM   #90
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Before you start grinding be 100% sure the case & bearings are seated. IMO 2 bolts aren't enough. The pins can really make it difficult to seat the cases. Using a dead blow is the correct method, tapping the output case at each of the pin locations.

Last go round I measured bearings before putting them on & everything was +-0.003. Not saying you couldn't have gotten something way out of spec, I'd just be surprised if it were by that much.

All that being said, if you're seeing 0 play in the output shaft without a shim then you've definitely got an issue.
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Old 08-05-2012, 05:37 PM   #91
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That's zero play with the .035" spacer that was in there when I took it apart. I know that 2 bolts isn't enough to hold the cases together, but im not about to torque it down and damage the bearings.

When I put the smaller spacer in and close it all up, ill put a dial indicator on the output shaft and push/pull. It should show .008".

Yeah I really wish I had measured the new bearings before I put them on the shaft, but I wasn't expecting any problems. I dont want to pull them back off and risk damaging them.

This is a 2002 tranny, and the bearings in it were visibly different than the replacements. Id and od were the same but the new ones had smaller rollers with thicker races. These are now updated part numbers so im thinking that the new ones aren't the same thickness as the oldest ones. A .019" spacer still falls into the range of the standard washers made by Subaru.

Any ideas as to what other sort of problem I could have? The bearings are pushed all the way to the shoulders on the shaft, I checked them with the light and a .001" feeler shim. The races also press into the aluminum cases relatively easily, so doubt they are a problem.

???
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:51 PM   #92
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You could pull the races back out & make sure they're clean underneath w/o doing any damage. Other than that it sounds like you're in good shape & are doing the right thing.

From what i was told by a Subaru mechanic, they released the latest update to the bearings within the last 6 months. It's supposed to outlast the old design, so let's hope!
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:13 AM   #93
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Not to ruin the thread. I just purchased and all new oem vc center diff . Suppose to come with it all the works. Should be sent to me Friday . So I been getting everything off car and ready to put in. Got oil drained Dow pipe off tranny mounts off. And a jack holding the tranny up alittle. Just ready to get drive shaft off. Any one have some info on how to. Thanks
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:16 PM   #94
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Alright thanks for nothing haha. Got it all out ready to put new in . Not ever one run at once to help . Maybe next time if I have a question. Geez. :*\
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Old 08-25-2012, 12:52 PM   #95
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Ok been installing mine back together. It this is what held me up also. I believe it's the one adjusting washer behind the trace. Idk if it's not thick enough because of I sit everything into position and try to turn gears it doesn't want to go and feels its rubbing. Since this is all new bearing design does that mean that washer needs to be updated also. ?? Please help so I can get my car finished already. A little bs washer is what's holding me back uhhh!
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:21 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanks View Post
Just replaced all four bearings on my 04 WRX. WOW! what a difference now. the car is so quiet and nice to drive. The fluid that was drained was in desperate need of a change. I was able to do this in my driveway on a Saturday afternoon, not very complicated at all. Also make sure you put the shims back before you replace the bearing races.



What are these "shims" that keep getting mentioned, anyone have a pic?
Thanks

I am replacing my center diff and I think I am going to replace these bearings as well



Qucik question.....can these bearing be replaced be removing the back plate of the trans....like when you go to pull out the center diff, whitout having to pull the transfer case off?
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:43 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
[/u][/b]


What are these "shims" that keep getting mentioned, anyone have a pic?
Thanks
The shims are also known as adjusting washers. There are pics of these on page 3.
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:09 AM   #98
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I guess i'll ask here, but when you measure for the adjusting shim between the center diff and transfer gear. Using the U=S-T equation should you get a negative or positive number?I keep getting a negative number no matter what I do.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:03 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slamdspec
I guess i'll ask here, but when you measure for the adjusting shim between the center diff and transfer gear. Using the U=S-T equation should you get a negative or positive number?I keep getting a negative number no matter what I do.
Previous statement retracted due to inaccuracies.

Last edited by ragejed; 10-24-2012 at 09:32 PM. Reason: Previous statement retracted due to inaccuracies.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:50 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragejed

If you are only changing the bearings (an reusing the same housing and gears, there is no need to reshim it.
This is NOT true. Most people don't & nothing explodes, but is it does cause premature bearing wear &/or chatter.

If you have a negative number I'd guess that something isn't seated properly or you're doing something wrong.
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