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Old 11-13-2014, 04:40 AM   #1
NSFW
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Default If your motor has been reliable all the way to 8500 RPM...

...then I'd love to know what pistons, conrods, valves, and springs you're using.

(And any other parts that you feel are essential.)

It's time for me to upgrade some internals, and the main thing I'm after is a higher rev limit. I'm content with the power I got from my stock motor, but letting up at 7000 is always a nuisance.
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:47 AM   #2
DisoDisp
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Mine was fine untill the Manley circlip decided to go walk about at around 5k rpm a few weeks ago.

MPS +2mm rods
MANLEY pistons
Manley billet 79mm crank
Ferrea Valves
Manley Valvesprings (singles, not the beehives)
288* duration race cams
Fluidampr pulley
Balanced rotating assembly
JDM 12mm oilpump

With milder cams I'd suspect most cars won't make power up top anyway, so no need to keep revving.

Balancing everything would be most important IMO.
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Old 11-13-2014, 08:58 AM   #3
fastblueufo
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My new setup has lasted over 10k so far. I've taken it as high as 9k a few times. Mostly 8k to 8500. Manley billet crank, pauter rods, je fsr pistons. The fsr design is a better design by je. It is the same design as the cosworth but in 2618 alloy. There is a lot more support around the pin boss than a standard design piston. The skirt is smaller and shorter so less drag on the cylinder wall.
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:53 AM   #4
Flat 4 Motorsport
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On my personal WRX I have roughly 15k on the engine with the following internals;

Flat 4 Street Series SB
CP 8.2:1 pistons
Manley HBeams with upgraded rod bolts
Calico coated main/rod brgs
OEM nitrided crank

F4M heads
GSC S1 Cams
Supertech 72lbs dual Valve springs Ti retainers
Supertech nitrided intake valves
Supertech inconel exhaust valves

Has a FP BB 76HTA Red (30r)

I beat the piss out of the car. Starts right up every time. In the process of switching over to speed density now. Was maf tuned to 397/410 WHP/TQ

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Old 11-13-2014, 12:05 PM   #5
Razgeiz
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I'd be interested in what major builders say on cranks. I've seen some say the OEM is fine and some swear by Manley for better oiling to the rods.

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Old 11-13-2014, 12:18 PM   #6
CatfaceType-R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DisoDisp View Post
Mine was fine untill the Manley circlip decided to go walk about at around 5k rpm a few weeks ago.

MPS +2mm rods
MANLEY pistons
Manley billet 79mm crank
Ferrea Valves
Manley Valvesprings (singles, not the beehives)
288* duration race cams
Fluidampr pulley
Balanced rotating assembly
JDM 12mm oilpump

With milder cams I'd suspect most cars won't make power up top anyway, so no need to keep revving.

Balancing everything would be most important IMO.

You could probably use some beefier wrist pins.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:45 PM   #7
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I've always found that balacing the rotating assembly is the key
of all the motors I've built in my car, the best was when I had everything balanced (from pulley to flywheel, and everything in between)
I also try to use light components as it helps a bit (lightened coswroth crank, light pistons etc.)

with oiling being also important, the clearances were a bit on the loose side with shimmed 11mm pump and running only 15w50 oil

I could drive that motor at 8000rpm all day long without even knowing it, it was that smooth
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Old 11-13-2014, 01:39 PM   #8
ride5000
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all oem ej205 parts.



obviously i have no real reason to really wring it out to 8k, but i've done it dozens of times over the years.
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:28 PM   #9
DisoDisp
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Double post
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:29 PM   #10
DisoDisp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatfaceType-R View Post
You could probably use some beefier wrist pins.
Manley Uprated Thick walled Tool Steel wrist pins were used....

And they were all perfect on tear down, the failed bore ripped the darton sleeve to **** but the wrist pin is still fine.

This is not my first 600+ EJ25 build.
Thanks for trying to be smartass though.
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:41 PM   #11
Element Tuning
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Our Element Tuning Pro Comp engine we offer is rated to 700-800whp and 9000rpm. We run this same engine in our Time Attack STI and it has seen 8,500rpm - 9,000rpm @ 600-700whp during grueling TA sessions consistently without issue.

-Stock 99.5mm Bore with ET block reinforcement
-OEM forged crank (NOT the nitride one; we run the OEM crank in all of our engine builds)
-Manley pistons
-ET forged rods
-ACL bearings
-Standard ARP head studs
-ET Big Valve Heads
-280 cams
-Ferrea valve train

All built to our spec and blue print to support the oil pressure required to run 9,000rpm. THAT is the key to being able to rev out to 9k. Our engines are tried and true and were directly derived from 10 years of Time Attack racing R&D.

Now, this is also with the proper supporting mods in order to make power all the way to 9k. Running a smaller 272 cam will still spin to 9k, however, you'll probably only be making power to 8-8.5k so it becomes pointless to rev it out that far.

-Andrew
Element Tuning
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:17 PM   #12
SoloWRXSTi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tuning View Post

-OEM forged crank (NOT the nitride one; we run the OEM crank in all of our engine builds)
Can you explain why you do not opt for the nitrided crank?
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:31 PM   #13
Element Tuning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloWRXSTi View Post
Can you explain why you do not opt for the nitrided crank?
Other TA cars we were racing against were seeing that the noses of the nitride cranks were breaking in the 550-600whp range.

Our theory is that the 08+ nitride cranks weren't actually forged like the forged units in the 04-07 STI cars. The nitride is a hardening treatment; so we believe that they were using a lesser quality crank and then trying to make it stronger with the nitride treatment. This is all fine in an OEM and low power unit but those aren't the type of engines that we build so we've never used them

The other thing that makes us believe this is that Subaru still produces the 04-07 STI crank without it being superseded by the 08+ nitride crank part #.

-Andrew
Element Tuning
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:06 PM   #14
fastblueufo
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Def use the heat inducted over nitride. On high rpm builds we like to use the Manley billet crank because of the cross drilling and knife edging. Cross drilling let's each rod get oil from two mains which keeps flow more equally balanced to the rod bearings. Subaru would have way less issues if they had used cross drilling on the ej25.
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:14 PM   #15
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Thanks for those observations. Based on your experience, it appears that the nitrided crank is still a viable option for most people in the Subaru community. I doubt there are many pushing past 600WHP......
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:16 PM   #16
ALOKIN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastblueufo View Post
My new setup has lasted over 10k so far. I've taken it as high as 9k a few times. Mostly 8k to 8500. Manley billet crank, pauter rods, je fsr pistons. The fsr design is a better design by je. It is the same design as the cosworth but in 2618 alloy. There is a lot more support around the pin boss than a standard design piston. The skirt is smaller and shorter so less drag on the cylinder wall.
Heres a pic of cosworth pistons. Im using a set in my engine build for my DD.

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Old 11-13-2014, 04:19 PM   #17
suba03ru
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Interesting disscussion going on here. I'm in the process of a build and the info on the crank is good stuff.
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:20 PM   #18
Psychoreo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NSFW View Post
...then I'd love to know what pistons, conrods, valves, and springs you're using.

(And any other parts that you feel are essential.)

It's time for me to upgrade some internals, and the main thing I'm after is a higher rev limit. I'm content with the power I got from my stock motor, but letting up at 7000 is always a nuisance.
Ej207

#dyjh
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:41 PM   #19
DisoDisp
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The cosworths are good, but for high HP I'd stay clear of 4032 and run the 2618 JE FSRs or Mahle Race 2618s.

Cosworth can call it CosAl10 or whatever but its basically 4032,
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DisoDisp View Post
The cosworths are good, but for high HP I'd stay clear of 4032 and run the 2618 JE FSRs or Mahle Race 2618s.

Cosworth can call it CosAl10 or whatever but its basically 4032,
I put close to 30k miles a year on my car so 2618 was out of the question for me.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2673249

^^ Hes making pretty good power on them, albiet drag is a different kind of animal anyways.
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:47 PM   #21
04ImprezaWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastblueufo View Post
My new setup has lasted over 10k so far. I've taken it as high as 9k a few times. Mostly 8k to 8500. Manley billet crank, pauter rods, je fsr pistons. The fsr design is a better design by je. It is the same design as the cosworth but in 2618 alloy. There is a lot more support around the pin boss than a standard design piston. The skirt is smaller and shorter so less drag on the cylinder wall.
Is this on your ej22t 2.35 stroker?
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Old 11-14-2014, 12:20 AM   #22
NSFW
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Thanks for all of the input, I really appreciate it!
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:44 AM   #23
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i use an 2.0 fcd engine with 2.0 sti crank dual thrust conversion , manley rods , acl bearings , wiseco pistons , type ra heads with underbucket shims, 8250 rpm daily and tuned on 8500
and gtx 3076r 1.8 bar boost (28 psi)

and noi problems
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:19 AM   #24
fastblueufo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04ImprezaWRX View Post
Is this on your ej22t 2.35 stroker?
No. I went back with another hybrid 2.5. I just overall like the hybrid. I've had 2.0, 2.34 stroker, and the 2.5 hybrid. I just like the hybrid better. It's cheaper to build than a stroked 22t and they just seem to have more all around better tq than the stroked 22t.
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Old 11-14-2014, 02:05 PM   #25
Paul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychoreo View Post
Ej207

#dyjh
I know it's common knowledge but +2 on that.

I personally rev my stock V8 to 8-8250
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