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Old 12-30-2010, 11:19 AM   #51
Md05STI
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If this is a street car you might want to consider moving the fuel system between the strut towers. It will be much safer there if you would happen to be rear ended or involved in some sort of crash involving the rear of the car.
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Last edited by Md05STI; 12-30-2010 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:26 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
I think he meant preload. Meaning have the line tight between fittings.

Just be sure the are not super tight between cable carriers. A little room for expansion/contraction will prevent premature wear of the lines.

Ok, makes sense now. The -10 line is pretty inflexible so its pretty neutral in the cushion clamps. The -6 stuff is much more flexible so I did put a bit of pre-load on it. I will go back and loosen it up a bit. I am kind of concerned that if it is slightly loose it will move ever so slightly in ~150mph wind and rub on stuff. Should this not be a concern?
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:32 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Md05STI View Post
If this is a street car you might want to consider moving the fuel system between the strut towers. It will be much safer there if you would happen to be rear ended or involved in some sort of crash involving the rear of the car.

Yeah, know what you are saying. The car will be driven to meets, track events, etc. I also have a JDM Spec-C tank (not pictured) that will be installed in that area as well so its going to be pretty cramped. I know others have pulled it off but I just cant picture how to make it work with my setup.
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:49 AM   #54
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Yeah, know what you are saying. The car will be driven to meets, track events, etc. I also have a JDM Spec-C tank (not pictured) that will be installed in that area as well so its going to be pretty cramped. I know others have pulled it off but I just cant picture how to make it work with my setup.
Heres how mines setup, minus the spec c tank of course. My hydramist pump is in the spare tire area like yours.

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Old 12-30-2010, 12:01 PM   #55
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Did you drill right through the floor of the trunk for the output from the A1000?
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:34 PM   #56
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Did you drill right through the floor of the trunk for the output from the A1000?
Yes then ran it down the drivers side of the car
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:41 PM   #57
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Yes then ran it down the drivers side of the car

I was thinking of doing that my self. Did you use the factory return line?
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:16 PM   #58
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I was thinking of doing that my self. Did you use the factory return line?
Yea i used the factory return
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:31 PM   #59
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Lots more work on the car today! I cant believe how many small things need to be adjusted, moved and changed! I worked for seven hours and unless you watched me work you would hardly notice any changes.
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Old 01-01-2011, 12:31 AM   #60
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Here are a few picts from today. I was shocked to find out how hard it was to get the lines through the grommets and into position. I have also decided to redo the side with the braided lines so that the -10 line has a large grommet as it seems a bit more stressed than I would like.






I also built a new meth surge tank to fit into the area that its going to live now. When I first got into meth a few years ago I learned a lot about about making surge tanks. A proper meth surge tank needs to have a breather port (the small barb on the left side), a large inlet (5/8 in this case) and a outlet pointing to the rear of the car (liquid naturally flows there during acceleration). I also fill the tank with real fuel cell foam to limit as much movement as possible. I glue everything together (including the cap) with "
automotive goopautomotive goop
" with is the only thing that I have found that will reliably hold through the hot and cold with meth chewing on it.

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Old 01-02-2011, 08:32 PM   #61
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I got a fairly large shipment of parts in the mail yesterday and I also drove down to Pittsburgh to pickup my Moore Performance twin scroll header (the turbo arrives on Wednesday). I also spent a bit of time on the motor its self so that I could work on the fuel system bits that are located on the motor.


Test fit of my injectors and rails:




Here's where I am planning on putting my fuel pressure regulator:








Here's my fuel distribution solution. I could only get a -10 to -8 "Y" adapter so I had to use multiple adapter s to go from -8 to -6 and then the hose fittings. This collection of adapters is going to ride on a custom bracket so that it hovers very close to the pitch stop mount in a similar position shown on the second picture.








Here's my header:





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Old 01-02-2011, 09:04 PM   #62
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Great build so far, looking to your progress
Quote:
Originally Posted by dexterous View Post

However, this image is the reason why I wont use that header, look at the excess length of the exhaust manifold. Excess length is less efficiency, and our stock header setup already is longer than it should be.

Good luck with your goals, I'll be following along to see how it goes!
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:04 PM   #63
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very nice
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:12 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Fuj1wara View Post
Great build so far, looking to your progress


However, this image is the reason why I wont use that header, look at the excess length of the exhaust manifold. Excess length is less efficiency, and our stock header setup already is longer than it should be.

Good luck with your goals, I'll be following along to see how it goes!

Yeah, they are pretty long. I am not sure how else you would make it EL though. At this point, the biggest challenge that the "long" pipes seem to be presenting me is how to hook up my oil cooler. If you look in the picture that you quoted above you will see that there is no room to pass a pair of -10 hoses through like I had in my old setup.

Here's my old setup:

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Old 01-02-2011, 10:21 PM   #65
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Quote:
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Yeah, they are pretty long. I am not sure how else you would make it EL though. At this point, the biggest challenge that the "long" pipes seem to be presenting me is how to hook up my oil cooler. If you look in the picture that you quoted above you will see that there is no room to pass a pair of -10 hoses through like I had in my old setup.

Here's my old setup:

Remote hook up the oil filter. BTW, your response and humility makes me You seem to have quite a bit of commonsense
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:22 PM   #66
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it looks like that header is going to sit really low in the chassis, how does it compare (as far as distance between the bottom of the manifold, and the ground) to the stock manifolds?


looks like you are making good progress.....
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:35 PM   #67
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it looks like that header is going to sit really low in the chassis, how does it compare (as far as distance between the bottom of the manifold, and the ground) to stock
That's a really good question. I was actually sitting here thinking the exact same thing. Once i have the motor in the car I will post lots of good Picts from angles that show the answer as clearly as possible.
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:47 PM   #68
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Remote hook up the oil filter. BTW, your response and humility makes me You seem to have quite a bit of commonsense
LOL, glad I made you smile, it so easily goes the other way here. So about this remote oil filter adapter idea of yours, what do you have in mind? I have seen a few other setups before but I never took the time to understand why it's done. Is it only a fitment thing or are there other advantages? I guess I could run a larger filter...

I worry about oil pressure drop and it's another point of failure. Hmmm...
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:53 PM   #69
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LOL, glad I made you smile, it so easily goes the other way here. So about this remote oil filter adapter idea of yours, what do you have in mind? I have seen a few other setups before but I never took the time to understand why it's done. Is it only a fitment thing or are there other advantages? I guess I could run a larger filter...

I worry about oil pressure drop and it's another point of failure. Hmmm...
With the right setup, it shouldn't be that much more tubing, which would be less of a pressure drop than you think. Yes, it is usually used in situations where it's needed or it becomes more beneficial for periodic maintenance. Yes, more lines can become more things to worry about, but if you do it right, it'll be something you don't worry about as much as you think/
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:05 PM   #70
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I think you could have saved some space and complexity by just going with -8 to the rails on the supply, and even all the way back to the regulator.

Or going with a flare reducer
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:45 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dexterous View Post
That's a really good question. I was actually sitting here thinking the exact same thing. Once i have the motor in the car I will post lots of good Picts from angles that show the answer as clearly as possible.
Since it's out of the car, think of it this way... You have just over an inch before you're at the outside surface of the belly pan. The bottom of our pan, at the back edge, is close to the belly pan. The back is closest because the engine sits at an angle in the car, as it does on some engine stands too.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:10 PM   #72
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I think you could have saved some space and complexity by just going with -8 to the rails on the supply, and even all the way back to the regulator.

Or going with a flare reducer
Man, I looked and looked and looked (obviously not hard enough) for a fitting like that but I could not find one at JEGS. In the end I only ended up with one more piece (the male -6 to -6 union).
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:14 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
Since it's out of the car, think of it this way... You have just over an inch before you're at the outside surface of the belly pan. The bottom of our pan, at the back edge, is close to the belly pan. The back is closest because the engine sits at an angle in the car, as it does on some engine stands too.

Hope this helps.

Moore says the header is not the lowest point so I guess we will see. Any chance you have any suggestions for my oil cooler?

Last edited by dexterous; 01-03-2011 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:46 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dexterous View Post
Man, I looked and looked and looked (obviously not hard enough) for a fitting like that but I could not find one at JEGS. In the end I only ended up with one more piece (the male -6 to -6 union).
www.anplumbing.com Ive bought so much from these guys they know my voice. Great place to shop if you don't see it listed call them they supply or are supplied by EVERYONE! XRP,Earls,Aeroquip etc.

Yeah id just do the -8 to the rails looks like u just have a easy NPT > AN adapter on each end of the rail to set it up to what ever size. If you wanted to go really clean you could do a hose end that goes right to NPT and not use any adapter. In the engine bay you might also think about going to a softer cloth braided line the SS stuff is brutal on anything that comes into contact with it. You can also cover it with fire sleeve and tape the ends down if you really want the SS braid. Another trick is using heat shrink tubing over the SS braid.
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:00 PM   #75
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Quote:
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Moore says the header is not the lowest point so I guess we will see. Any chance you have any suggestions for my oil cooler?
Tough to tell from the pics, but what's there certainly looks like it's not going to fly
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