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Old 01-21-2011, 08:29 PM   #101
dexterous
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This feels like the slowest build in the world! Its amazing, when I was younger I always dreamed of modifying a car into oblivion like this but I could never afford it. Now that I have the financial situation to easily support a project like this I have absolutely NO time. Grrrrrrrr...
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:15 AM   #102
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WOW!!! just wow . . . . .

i started looking into the element tuning motor builds and the prices are outstanding, im real interested to see what kinds of numbers that red is going to push out and at what rpms.

too bad element tuning is like 24 hours away or i wouldnt even hesitate to give them a call, good luck with your build.
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Old 01-22-2011, 05:22 PM   #103
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That is a stunning looking turbo!!

Keeping a close eye on this build, im almost finished mine! Startup is in a few weeks!
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:27 PM   #104
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Thanks, I am really not that far away my self. The issue is just finding some time.
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:58 PM   #105
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In other news, I spent about 30 minutes on the phone with Ryan from Moore performance on Thursday talking through my oil cooler issues (see post 64). I expressed my concern that nearly every oil cooler setup out there uses the same route that my lines take which could limit compatibility for a lot of people. Ryan was very accommodating and immediately offered to modify my header. The idea is to relocate the problematic tab so that my oil cooler lines fit. He also mentioned that they are probably going to revise the header design so that future units are made in a way that this wont be an issue. What awesome customer service!

This is the tab that he is talking about relocating:




Here's a pict of my oil cooler setup installed on last years setup using my GT-Spec header:

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Old 01-26-2011, 11:25 PM   #106
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I made significant progress on my trunk area this week. I have the meth system 100% done and all the fuel system bits in the trunk finished. After getting all the AN hardware and 5/16 soft lines hooked up I had a friend come over to help me flush the system. We powered up the car's electrical system to test the new electronics, wiring, the in-tank walbro and the feed/return lines to the main tank. To begin with, we ran fuel into the surge tank until it was 100% full. Once the surge tank was totally full we forced gas to low backwards through the -6 return line and into an old gas tank by kinking the return line between the surge tank and the main gas tank. After a gallon of fuel went through the -6 line I used a set of vice grips to pinch off the end of the SS fuel pump return and focused on the A1000 pump / -10 side of things.

As I posted previously, the stock fuel pump controller has been totally disabled and the Walbro always sees 100% voltage directly from the battery when the ignition is on. I placed a manual shutoff switch in the trunk to prevent the A1000 from running during fuel system maintenance which really came in handy while I was trying to test and flush the fuel system. Since the surge tank was full from the previous testing and flushing that we had done I directed my friend to place the engine side of the -10 line deep into a large gas can while I powered up the A1000. I must say, I was very very surprised to hear how the A1000 sounded. I was expecting a very smooth noise similar to the Walbro (only louder) but the A1000 sounded pretty crazy. I would liken it to the noise the Hydramist pump makes when its running only much much louder. We decided to run two to three gallons of fuel through the system while I carefully monitored the A1000 to make sure that the surge tank never ran dry. I felt pretty good when the A1000 was not able to drain the surge tank after one minute of 100% flow. I also played with the fuel pump controller a bit and and experimented with the high and low settings.

As I previously posted, I am going to use the Hydra to control the A1000's controller so that the pump will switch between a high and low setting as needed. I am very happy with my decision to spend the extra money for the Aeromotive fuel pump controller because it cuts the pump noise by 60-70% at the low speed (when compared to 100%). Make no mistake about it, the A1000 pump is loud, very loud when running at 100% duty. One of my next projects will be to wire in the connection between the fuel pump controller and the Hydra. I will also need to setup a map to get an output to ground out while under boost. I plan on posting very detailed instructions on this as soon as I get it finished and working.



Here are a few crappy cell phone picts of the final product:








Last edited by dexterous; 01-26-2011 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 01-27-2011, 12:16 AM   #107
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Cool sti

this this is so legit, good work, i like the fuel pump set up
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:01 PM   #108
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Thanks.
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Old 01-27-2011, 04:18 PM   #109
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man i love well thought out and exicuted builds. youre attention to detail is really going to pay off in the end. awesome! cant wait to see results from this.
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Old 01-27-2011, 07:29 PM   #110
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Thanks to you as well. I just hope everything works out ok with my new fuel system.
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Old 01-27-2011, 10:36 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dexterous View Post
Thanks to you as well. I just hope everything works out ok with my new fuel system.

Im sure it will! Have faith
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:04 AM   #112
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Well, it appears that I dont have any leaks in the trunk area. I did some more testing tonight and everything seems to be holding well. I am on to getting my hydra setup with an output to feed into the fuel pump controller. I have an email into Phil to find out what pin I need to access the INJ8 output. I will post more info on that soon.
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:21 AM   #113
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Lack of leaks. Attributed to the oetiker clamps...nice touche.
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:04 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinSTi05 View Post
Lack of leaks. Attributed to the oetiker clamps...nice touche.

I use those for everything. My previous fuel system was based on 3/8 and 5/16 soft line on barbs and the oetiker clamps are the perfect solution for those. I have both ends of those lines secured in the same way.
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:33 AM   #115
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What's an Oetiker clamp?
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:17 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dexterous View Post
I use those for everything. My previous fuel system was based on 3/8 and 5/16 soft line on barbs and the oetiker clamps are the perfect solution for those. I have both ends of those lines secured in the same way.
If you are not running a full AN hose barb that us the only other "full assed" way to do it.

Oh and KB. An Oetiker clamp is a steel sleeve that goes over a barb/hose joint. You crimp the tang hanging off with pliers and it is more or less a permanent assy.
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:56 PM   #117
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Very clean. KB, if you're familiar with the gen 2 Perrin fuel system, it came with Oetiker clamps out of the box.
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Old 01-28-2011, 02:16 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinSTi05 View Post
If you are not running a full AN hose barb that us the only other "full assed" way to do it.

Oh and KB. An Oetiker clamp is a steel sleeve that goes over a barb/hose joint. You crimp the tang hanging off with pliers and it is more or less a permanent assy.

There's actually a specialized "nipper" tool to get the perfect crimp every time (thats what I use).
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Old 01-28-2011, 03:59 PM   #119
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cant wait to see your car in person at the meets man..seeing that turbo in person was just outrageous
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:26 PM   #120
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Yeah, the red is pretty crazy. I just cant wait to drive it to a meet. With a little luck the car will be tuned in mid April and at the May meet.
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:09 PM   #121
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Looking good Tom!
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:12 PM   #122
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Hydra pinout question solved (by me). See post 124 for details but the cliff notes are as follows:

-Spent three days pulling my hair out trying to test wiring that appeared to be dead only to find out that my multimeter was bad and that nothing else was wrong at all!
-A Hydra ground output is NOT strong enough to drive the Aeromotive fuel pump controller's override function so a relay must be used.

Last edited by dexterous; 01-30-2011 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:16 PM   #123
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Quote:
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Looking good Tom!
Thanks!
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Old 01-30-2011, 10:45 PM   #124
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So let me tell you a sad story. I have been going over the XLS doc from the Hydra EMS website for several days and was not having any luck finding the INJ8 pin. My method for finding the correct pin was to set my multimeter to read resistance (Ohms) and hook up one lead to the chassis (ground) and the other lead to a wire inserted into the spot on the Hydra harness that I thought was connected to the correct pin. I would then open up the Hydra software and go to "Settings 1" and then to "Output Configuration". I used the interface in the Output Configuration to flip the output function for one of the pins between on and off. I was expecting the meter to beep and show a reading indicating that the pin was grounded while the output setting was configured as "On". UNFORTUNATELY AFTER THREE DAYS OF PULLING MY HAIR OUT I FIGURED OUT THAT MY DAMN METER IS BROKEN!!! In the end I discovered that I had the pin I needed on the VERY FIRST attempt. F***!

Moving on...

After calming down a bit (I was really upset at that meter) I settled on using the PWM12G output instead of INJ8 like I was originally planning on doing (no real reason, thats just the one I used). I also decided to use the "USER5" user definable logic (single variable triggers it) to control the output. PWM12 is a ground based output meaning that when the condition is true it grounds the pin out (other outputs are positive based). By the way, PWM12 is connected to the A11 pin on the small blue connector.

After verifying that A11 was in fact the correct pin (I used a spare meter and the method described above) I wired up the "override" input on the Aeromotive fuel pump controller. I then disconnected the fuel pump from the controller so I could do a quick test to see if the hydra could command the controller to go to full blast. With the car powered up but not running (no motor in the engine bay) I manually switched the output function on PWM12 from off to on which made the "override" LED light up on the controller. Thinking that it was a complete success I decided to try a full test.

I reconnected the power to the A1000 and placed its output hose (a -10 fuel line) deep into a empty gas can. I powered up the car and proceeded to flip flop the PWM12 output from on to off. Unfortunately the fuel pump controller was not working correctly. The "override" LED would light up when it should but the controller would not actually go into full blast mode. I decided to try a quick test by manually shorting the controller's override pin to the controllers ground source and it instantly went into full blast mode. The issue was clear, the ground source from the Hydra was not strong enough to actually activate the controller.

To fix the issue I installed a small DPDT relay that activates using the PWM12 output. When activated, the relay shorts out the controllers ground source and the override pin and the results were perfect! I then setup the USER5 logic control to monitor boost pressure and activate PWM12 when boost pressure was over 3PSI.



Last edited by dexterous; 01-31-2011 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:12 PM   #125
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^^^very nice solution^^^

Wish I could afford your labor rate
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