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Old 10-25-2010, 08:50 PM   #1
TurboQueef
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Default Coolant temp 18F higher than before

Hi,

In the past, when I datalogged coolant temp I would see 187~189F cruising down the highway. The stock temp gauge in the car would be one needle width above the first mark (1/4 scale I guess).

Mid this summer, I noticed the coolant temp was up to 205F cruising down the highway.... I stopped and found the RAD fans were on but the coolant temp stayed at 205. The stock temp gauge in the car was still at the same spot as when the datalogger showed 187~189

I continued to drive to work and noticed that when I got on the throttle, the temp would quickly drop into the low 180's but then rather quickly raise back to above 200F

To correct this.. I have tried the following:

** Working out the air bubbles in the system following the manual... and other methods (racing the engine at 3K for 10min... letting stand till cool... cussing when found the reservoir still full. From cold, remove cap, install small funnel, depress the hoses to remove any air bubbles... fill if took any)

** Changed the thermostat and replaced all fluid.... burped it several times again... still no go.

One note, when I changed the t-stat... the system only took 1.6 gallons so it seems there is still air in the system but I can't find it...

Another note... sometimes out of the blue.. when cruising down the highway the temp will drop to 180 and stay there for a while then .. slowly raise to 205 again.

FYI... no coolant in the oil per my Blackstone reports, no overflowing reserve tank, making good power and.. it has been doing this for the past 5K miles...

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Jeff
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:58 PM   #2
Zurawek
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mine is doing the exact same thing, i should have my car back tomo after replacing thermostat and water pump. i tried burping the system and it did nothing. ill post up here once its figured out.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:06 PM   #3
TurboQueef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurawek View Post
mine is doing the exact same thing, i should have my car back tomo after replacing thermostat and water pump. i tried burping the system and it did nothing. ill post up here once its figured out.
One thing I just thought of... when Ron (Axis/RAW) refreshed the engine this summer, he removed the oil cooler/warmer.. by chance is yours removed too?

Thanks,

Jeff
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:03 AM   #4
Zurawek
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nope. it happened one evening after a day of enthusiastic driving. out of nowhere i saw my aftermarket gauge going to the exact temps yours did peaking at 207 down to about 83. before that it was ALWAYS at 90. hooked my my APv2 to make sure it wasnt the gauge and it showed the exact same temps. one strange thing is my exhaust temp was abnormally high as well. if what i am doing doesnt fix it i dont know what i will do.
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:17 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Zurawek View Post
nope. it happened one evening after a day of enthusiastic driving. out of nowhere i saw my aftermarket gauge going to the exact temps yours did peaking at 207 down to about 83. before that it was ALWAYS at 90. hooked my my APv2 to make sure it wasnt the gauge and it showed the exact same temps. one strange thing is my exhaust temp was abnormally high as well. if what i am doing doesnt fix it i dont know what i will do.
OK... very strange problem...

I wonder if the radiator cap's may be going bad... I may buy replacements to check.

FYI.. I have new water pump with the engine refresh this summer !!!
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:54 AM   #6
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Just so you know the stock fans don't kick on until 207f. I had this same problem but my jdm Sti temp gauge would show higher than normal but datalogging would show 207. I was scared for a while but never saw temps over 207. Then the fans would kick on and it would slowly go down.
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Old 10-26-2010, 12:34 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by blkwagon View Post
Just so you know the stock fans don't kick on until 207f. I had this same problem but my jdm Sti temp gauge would show higher than normal but datalogging would show 207. I was scared for a while but never saw temps over 207. Then the fans would kick on and it would slowly go down.
Yea it never goes above 210 in my case and when I hit the accelerator it quickly goes down to 180 but something is wrong I think... because even in 40F temps... after a 30 mile drive to work.. the fans are on and they never turn off (when under the MPH setting to activate them)... it seems like the thermostat is not opening for some reason.. but I just replaced it...

Jeff
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:43 PM   #8
Zurawek
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well, got it all changed. still doing it, maybe a little bit less. only thing that concerns me now is the high exhaust temps. does anyone think a radiator cap could be the deviant? i just dont know what to do and what would cause that to be higher. at cruising speeds it is in the 700-800 celsius range and WOT it gets very high, much higher then ever. sorry for barging in your thread, just seems we are having the same issue.
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Old 10-27-2010, 12:55 AM   #9
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hey jeff whos thermostat did you put in,I have always used crucial racing stats and the cars always stayed around 80-82* celcius which is about 180*f iirc.zurawek--what are you afr's and what kind of ign timing are you seeing up top?
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Old 10-27-2010, 05:37 AM   #10
TurboQueef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john 1badSTI View Post
hey jeff whos thermostat did you put in,I have always used crucial racing stats and the cars always stayed around 80-82* celcius which is about 180*f iirc.zurawek--what are you afr's and what kind of ign timing are you seeing up top?
Hi John,

Running the stock thermostat... 78C..

It only runs warm when I am cruising down the highway.. 14.7/1 AFR.. can't remember the timing under cruise..

When I mash it... I am running the profile you suggested.. 14 at the hit.. but it only takes 20 at red line.. it cools down to 180 when open it up (100% throttle). It is making good power tho 431/360 on pump
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Old 10-27-2010, 05:48 AM   #11
TurboQueef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurawek View Post
well, got it all changed. still doing it, maybe a little bit less. only thing that concerns me now is the high exhaust temps. does anyone think a radiator cap could be the deviant? i just dont know what to do and what would cause that to be higher. at cruising speeds it is in the 700-800 celsius range and WOT it gets very high, much higher then ever. sorry for barging in your thread, just seems we are having the same issue.
Your EGT at cruse is same as mine.. what doe it go to when you go WOT? Mine goes to 1550 on most pulls, 1650 max (11.2 AFR on 93 octane)
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Old 10-27-2010, 12:08 PM   #12
Zurawek
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just about the exact same exhaust temps for me. im going to log it later and see what my air/fuel ratio's look like. this problem is really confusing me though, from what i understood those temps are not safe yet everything seems perfectly fine about the car. could ringland failure possibly cause this?
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Old 10-27-2010, 12:41 PM   #13
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If you are not running proper afrs your going to have problmz ith high egts.... If your cruising temps go High but wot is fine I would say your wot fueling is spot on and your cruising fueling is not accurate... May need a little maf scale fixing....I wouldn't go wot If your wot egts are through the roof, it will result in a nice sized hole melted through your piston. Don't go wot unless you want piston with a nifty hole through it for a paper weight zurwek.
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Old 10-27-2010, 01:42 PM   #14
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im taking it easy, trying to drive the car as little as possible. i was just trying to have some info i could post up so i could possibly get an answer. ive been running the cobb stg 2 map for 30k miles with no issues up until now. i dont know what the causes would be of low/high afr if that is the case. what do you believe i need to do first?
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Old 10-27-2010, 07:10 PM   #15
TurboQueef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurawek View Post
just about the exact same exhaust temps for me. im going to log it later and see what my air/fuel ratio's look like. this problem is really confusing me though, from what i understood those temps are not safe yet everything seems perfectly fine about the car. could ringland failure possibly cause this?
Where did you hear 1550 to 1650 are unsafe? I have been running those temps for over 21k miles!
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Old 10-27-2010, 07:11 PM   #16
TurboQueef
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If you are not running proper afrs your going to have problmz ith high egts.... If your cruising temps go High but wot is fine I would say your wot fueling is spot on and your cruising fueling is not accurate... May need a little maf scale fixing....I wouldn't go wot If your wot egts are through the roof, it will result in a nice sized hole melted through your piston. Don't go wot unless you want piston with a nifty hole through it for a paper weight zurwek.
Don't think it has anything to do with AFR... at highway cruising in closed loop the target is always 14.7 to 1 and that is what I am hitting.. WOT target is 11.2 also hitting it
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Old 10-28-2010, 03:09 AM   #17
TDagen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboQueef View Post
Don't think it has anything to do with AFR... at highway cruising in closed loop the target is always 14.7 to 1 and that is what I am hitting.. WOT target is 11.2 also hitting it
Strange .... Maybe way to little timing at cruise? Iirc that results in high egts...hope you guys figure it out!
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:32 AM   #18
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I just sent some logs to Jeff/Turboqueef and Mine is doing the same thing just not as hot. about 194F at 55-75mph cruising.
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:17 PM   #19
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jeff as long as cruise timing is around 36* +/- 1* you are fine.it seems like you still might have an air pocket or the thermostat is not opening all the way like it should thats why the increased flow from high rpm's helps.Also to 2gnt2wrx if you are still on stock radiator and fmic you may see a little higher temps due to airflow restriction thru the fm to the rad.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:27 PM   #20
TurboQueef
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Originally Posted by john 1badSTI View Post
jeff as long as cruise timing is around 36* +/- 1* you are fine.it seems like you still might have an air pocket or the thermostat is not opening all the way like it should thats why the increased flow from high rpm's helps.Also to 2gnt2wrx if you are still on stock radiator and fmic you may see a little higher temps due to airflow restriction thru the fm to the rad.
Thanks for the info... I am running a fair bit more timing at cruse... up to 44.5.. maybe that has something to do with it... will tone it down a bit

Jeff
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:23 PM   #21
john 1badSTI
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yeah bring it down to 36-38 and did you notice that at 42-44*'s that the car kind of surges a little at highway speeds?A few cars here in the central ohio area that were tuned by a local tuning duo run excessive timing at cruise thinking it helps with gas mileage(yeah right) and all it does that I have noticed is kill diveabilty and I had to retune them.
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:39 PM   #22
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yeah bring it down to 36-38 and did you notice that at 42-44*'s that the car kind of surges a little at highway speeds?A few cars here in the central ohio area that were tuned by a local tuning duo run excessive timing at cruise thinking it helps with gas mileage(yeah right) and all it does that I have noticed is kill diveabilty and I had to retune them.
Have not noticed any surge issues with highway cruising... but did get 29.72mpg with the timing set that high
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:22 PM   #23
john 1badSTI
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thats good then, I really never noticed a big swing in mpg between running 38* and 44* but then again every combo is different.
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:20 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurawek View Post
im taking it easy, trying to drive the car as little as possible. i was just trying to have some info i could post up so i could possibly get an answer. ive been running the cobb stg 2 map for 30k miles with no issues up until now. i dont know what the causes would be of low/high afr if that is the case. what do you believe i need to do first?
Did you get any data about your AFR's? Mine are fine and I replaced both radiator caps... still does it... when it goes into the funk... the fans will run continuously at idle and the temp will not come down... stays at 207 until I rev it to 3 K for a while.. then it will start working correctly...

I think it is an air bubble but no idea where it could be.... When I replaced the thermostat last weekend, it only took 1.6 gal of fluid... the capacity is 2 gal so unless some fluid was trapped in the engine during the thermostat replacement there is .4 gal of air still inside...
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:09 AM   #25
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have you tried running the car with the cap off, and letting the air bubble out? It is a waste of coolant, but it might be the only way.
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