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Old 11-01-2010, 01:35 AM   #1
Britain
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1700lb AX Car w/ Spec-C

Default JDM Spec-C Questions

I just recieve my JDM v8 Spec-C that I am going to be installing into a Porsche 914 1700lb AX car. Therefore, there are several things on this engine that I am not going to need or that will be required. I have taken the engine down to the long block, now I have some questions on what I need to put back.

1. The Spec-C appearantly has a factory oil cooler with provisions on the oil filter console. I don't plan on running an external oil cooler and was just going to loop these fittings together. However, the oil filter hanging down that low might be an issue when it comes to ground clearance. Does this additional console just screw off? Can I remove it and retain the oil filter console?


2. I am planning on running the stock VF36 turbo so I can keep the boost response down low. However, I plan to mount it in the front of the engine. Is it possible to rotate the IHI turbo so that I can point the cold side up? I took off the retaining ring but it doesn't seem to want to rotate. Do I just need a bit more force to loosen it up?


3. Here is the long block with just about everything removed. Are there any of the hard water line that I really need?



4. On the back of the water cross-over pipe, there is a pressed in pipe that looked like it went to possible a heater core. Can I remove this and either plug the hole or weld it up?



5. Since I am running the turbo in the front of the engine, I don't really need the oil or water fittings on the back of the engine. Can I plug/capped these off or are either essential to get fluid flow?



Thanks for the help in advance.

-Britain
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Last edited by Britain; 11-01-2010 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:03 AM   #2
Uncle Scotty
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you want the subaru conversions forum for this one


pm a moderator to move this for you
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:44 AM   #3
Britain
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Why do I need the Subaru conversion forums for factory 2.0L engine questions? I will be posting progress of my conversion in that section, but these questions are factory engine type questions.

-Britain
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:49 AM   #4
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OK.....so here we are

Last edited by Uncle Scotty; 11-01-2010 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 11-01-2010, 08:24 AM   #5
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It's not hard to understand the reasoning behind moving this to a forum where people deal with conversions all the time. You know, where they have more experience with Subaru engines PERIOD. Also the same forum where more of the JDM information will be, seeing as how they're popular to swap.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:51 AM   #6
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and a morning bump to see if we can get the OP some help with his swap
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Old 11-01-2010, 04:19 PM   #7
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If I remember correctly, the hot side of the turbo has a very small dowel/pin that determines the orientation of the housing. So no, you can't rotate the hot side. You may be able to re-clock the compressor housing, but you will most likely have to make some sort of custom bracket to re-mount the wastegate actuator if you do.

For the water lines, the most important thing you need to retain is the coolant bypass "system" that is essentially the heater core system. You can simplify the hard lines and re-route them to better fit your chassis, but you MUST retain the bypass at the thermostat housing in order for a thermostat to function properly. For example, if you end up using the OutFront Motorsports alternator relocation kit, you will have to reconfigure the hard lines that run behind the timing belt covers on the left side of the engine, and at the same time, you can re-route the "heater core" lines and essentially do a heater core bypass. Just understand that you can't just simply block-off the heater core lines, they must flow coolant in the same manner that they did when the heater core was present. I know it's confusing to read, but it will make sense when you look at it on the engine.

For the turbo fluid lines, I would just use the same feed and return locations, and simply extend the lines to the new turbo location. As long as you mount the turbo high enough, you shouldn't have to worry about an oil scavenge pump. Also, if it makes more sense, you can simply modify the front of the oil pan for another return line rather than run up over the cylinder head.

I don't have an answer on the oil filter housing as I haven't worked with that specific engine yet.
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Old 11-01-2010, 04:23 PM   #8
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Oh, and let me know if you end up needing any stainless 1/2" thick header flanges for the new headers. I had a few extra sets cut when I did mine that have the correct 1.75" ID holes for the primaries.
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:39 PM   #9
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the line off the water cross over in your pic runs to throttle body, should be another similar one off heater core hard line.... can loop these together. You can rotate compressor housing, it is siliconed on, and as mentioned you will likely have fab a bracket if using stock waste gate. The spec c oil cooler can be removed and can use a usdm factory oil cooler in place.
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:41 PM   #10
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What type of sealant should be used when putting the compressor housing back together?

-Britain
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Old 11-03-2010, 11:53 AM   #11
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high temp rtv silicone
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Old 11-03-2010, 02:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordini69 View Post
high temp rtv silicone
Cool, I will pull off the compressor side and reclock the turbo this evening.

Thank,
Britain
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Old 11-04-2010, 06:49 PM   #13
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For those who were interested, here is the turbo after I applied a little heat and motivation with a mallet.

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Old 11-04-2010, 07:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Britain View Post
For those who were interested, here is the turbo after I applied a little heat and motivation with a mallet.


Nice, how do the bearings feel?
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:36 PM   #15
Britain
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They felt ok. I have a brand new turbo on my '69 912 turbo project and that wheel spins forever when you breath near it. This one is a little less responsive, but not bad. No cluncks or flat spots that I can feel.

I am considering sending it out to Grimmspeed for port/polish and ceramic coating.

-Britain
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:55 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Britain View Post
They felt ok. I have a brand new turbo on my '69 912 turbo project and that wheel spins forever when you breath near it. This one is a little less responsive, but not bad. No cluncks or flat spots that I can feel.

I am considering sending it out to Grimmspeed for port/polish and ceramic coating.

-Britain
Wanna sell that Oil cooler manifold?
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Old 01-15-2011, 06:06 PM   #17
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The oil cooler is held on by a threaded shaft, you could source 1 from an N/A subaru & that would raise the height of the oil filter ( bring it closer to the block)
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