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Old 12-03-2010, 04:15 PM   #26
Feign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruh roh View Post
I went through the same issues.. I got a jdm sti transmission for cheap becuase the owner thought that it was no good anymore. Had it welded and machined and put the stock pin in. I am running a spec stage 3 clutch and beat the crap out of this car. I have not had any issues.
Hi Gary. I'm glad it's working out for you.

I'm wondering how it worked out for the OP?
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Old 12-15-2010, 11:03 PM   #27
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Hi Gary. I'm glad it's working out for you.
YEP!! its doing great!! Thanks for the A...mazing deal!!!

The guy just built up layers with the pin out. then drilled it out for the pin.
He was pretty confident that I would not have any issues.
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Old 12-16-2010, 07:01 PM   #28
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sorry about the delay, got sidetracked, here are images, there is the plug, then a washer(we weren't 100% on measurements and didn't' want to stress the pin on the far side of the casting or have the spud too far out in the plug....)

drilled out the rod, as you can see, switched to standard thread as it was easier for the machine shop guy, so he didn't even really charge to drill it out

spud is a #8 allen, grade 8 hardware, there's no way it's going to shear.

i need to get back in there and threadlock the plug just to be sure it never moves as it will be really bad if it falls out.

i can turn the inner Allen a little less than a 1/4 turn before it hits the edge on the plug when the plug is in so i know it's not actually touching and putting stress on the opposite side where that steel pin is and it has a tiny wiggle room. greased everything up, put it back together.


these has worked 100%, gives me no issues, here are the pics as promised, total cost was 54$, 14 of which were for the plug from Subaru. $40 in machine work.
did not have to drop the tranny at all, and on top of things i found the starter was only held in with one bolt, and the other that was in there was way too long, luckily Homemade hooked me up with a spair, just need to get the desire to pop off the intercooler again and go at it.

just the bellhousing would have been $400 from subaru, plus one heck of a big job to swap it out. for $40 i say it was 100% worth it and almost a better design than subaru's (which even they figured out sucked hence the switch from pull to push type clutches on the hawkeyes.)









Last edited by wrxkyle; 12-16-2010 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:32 PM   #29
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I have done some pretty ghetto s#!% before and it usualy works, atleast un till I have enough money to fix it properly.

If your ever wondering if a material can be welded check here it is most likely there.

http://www.welding-advisers.com/Weld-FAQ.html#WCSS
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Old 12-25-2010, 09:03 PM   #30
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I had this issue and did the following to fix the issue:

1) Put the steel pin back where it would normally be located.
2) Thread a long socket head cap screw into the end of the pin.
3) Head to your nearest machine shop.
4) Ask for their best welder and have him build up the broken part of the case using a TIG welder and Aluminum filler rod.
5) Wait a sufficient period of time things to cool down.
6) Attach a slide hammer to the socket head cap screw and pull the pin out.
7) The surface finish of your newly created boss is not really important because the pin is indexed and will never turn.

If the welding is done properly this is a permanent fix that will last the life of the transmission. Mine has been holding up to 360 bhp with track day abuse for a couple of years now.

PM me with any questions.

-Marc
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:12 AM   #31
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same thing happend to my 6mt on the drivers side. my friend who is a very good welder fought with the ****ty cast aluminum for 45mins but in the end we got it to the point where it looked solid. 5000miles and a lot of launch control launches later its still holding up. just pulled it out and looked at it and no signs of cracking! (visual inspection) just my experience!
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:39 PM   #32
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Does anyone know why these are breaking? Shortly after doing a 6MT swap into my car I had the same failure. We recently had another local guy who's 6MT swap lasted less than a day before breaking just like these. One thing I have noticed is that I'm finding these are mostly swaps (four people above, five including me, & six including the local one that happened over the weekend). I did a search and found another similar failure and, guess what, that was a swap also. Are there any documented cases like these with factory STi 6MTs?

I'm wondering if these cast caps on the bellhousing are somehow stressed during a crash (I'm sure most 6MT swaps come from crashed/salvaged cars).

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

FYI, I got lucky and a guy who does all of our trans work happened to have a spare bellhousing along with JDM 5th and 6th ratios so I had him throw those in as well for my fix. For the local guy I thick we are going to try welding it back together since all of the parts are still there.

-Dave
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:48 PM   #33
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I think it's probably uninformed junkyard workers trying to separate the engine and trans without pulling the pin at first, then finding it after gorillaing it. Casting gets stressed, then breaks once back in use.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:40 PM   #34
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ive seen it happen from having the big hex plug too loose. it worked its way out and so did the pin and once one side of the pin slips out the pressure on the fork is uneven and it tries to twist and cracks the drivers side. make sure thats plugs tight!
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Old 09-24-2011, 07:54 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OAKOS Automotive View Post
Does anyone know why these are breaking? Shortly after doing a 6MT swap into my car I had the same failure. We recently had another local guy who's 6MT swap lasted less than a day before breaking just like these. One thing I have noticed is that I'm finding these are mostly swaps (four people above, five including me, & six including the local one that happened over the weekend). I did a search and found another similar failure and, guess what, that was a swap also. Are there any documented cases like these with factory STi 6MTs?

I'm wondering if these cast caps on the bellhousing are somehow stressed during a crash (I'm sure most 6MT swaps come from crashed/salvaged cars).

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

FYI, I got lucky and a guy who does all of our trans work happened to have a spare bellhousing along with JDM 5th and 6th ratios so I had him throw those in as well for my fix. For the local guy I thick we are going to try welding it back together since all of the parts are still there.

-Dave

the real problem is if you look at the part it's not really that thick compared to the stress it sees, so any monkeying at the junkyard, inexp people, forgetting to put the plug back all the way, etc... will cause enough stress that it's going to fail eventually.

mine was from the plug not being put in. the fix is holding up great some 10k miles+ later. subaru wised up on the 06+ and changed the action of the clutch so now instead of pulling on that thin lip the bar is pushed against the whole back of the transmission case.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:34 PM   #36
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this just broke for me. but im just getting a new housing.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:46 PM   #37
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this just broke for me. but im just getting a new housing.
Was that from a swap?

Jon
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:36 PM   #38
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Was that from a swap?

Jon
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yes it was...
it happened while i was pulling into a parking spot.
the pin backed out and broke on the driver side.
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:45 AM   #39
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We recently had a local customer call in reporting the same problem.

When he initially called he said he had a 2006 STi. After he explained the problem I was like "Wait, is this an '06 STi or an '06 STi trans swap?" Ended up being a swap into an '03 WRX.

That's three cases in our locally that we know of.

Sean
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Old 01-20-2012, 04:10 AM   #40
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very well could be them trying to yank the tranny from the engine with the pin still in, i could see how that would get stressed.

forgetting to torque down the holding plug as well and the rod backing out would do it too. mine is still holding up a good number of miles later with the machining fix, no dissasembly or welding required
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Old 01-22-2012, 01:44 PM   #41
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The first and only one that I have had to replace the housing on was an '05 Sti that was missing the plug(10mm allen). The clutch release fork pivot pin was out and against the starter! This, obviously, caused and uneven pressure applied to the casing which caused the failure.

Note: I have no idea who did his clutch previously.
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Old 10-10-2015, 02:28 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacobeagle View Post
The first and only one that I have had to replace the housing on was an '05 Sti that was missing the plug(10mm allen). The clutch release fork pivot pin was out and against the starter! This, obviously, caused and uneven pressure applied to the casing which caused the failure.

Note: I have no idea who did his clutch previously.
Bring back from the dead!!!

Had same issue with the hex nut missing and caused the shaft to slide out and caused a crack on the housing and after replacing the hex but a few miles later the casing cracked on both sides now it's out and need to find a solution ASAP, need to see if casing can be replaced and also need part number or if it's better off welding it?

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Old 10-10-2015, 10:39 PM   #43
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Buy a new housing.. They are cheap
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:30 PM   #44
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It can definitely be welded. I've done a few of them but it is a pain. The area that needs to be welded has to be cleaned really well. That's 90% of the job. The actual welding isn't a big deal. I don't know the cost or party number of the cases but it's not a bad option if they aren't to expensive.
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Old 10-12-2015, 11:08 PM   #45
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Well if you decide to get rid of it I'll take it I don't use a clutch fork and I'm looking for a spare to mod.
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Old 10-13-2015, 06:25 AM   #46
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I 2nd that welding aluminum housings is totally fine.
Unless they are dirt cheap to replace, it will be good as new.
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Old 10-13-2015, 07:24 AM   #47
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Last I checked they are about 400 new.
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Old 10-14-2015, 12:13 PM   #48
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I have been down the path of trying to do the welding to fix this because the dude didn't want to buy a new housing.

In the end he ended up paying for welding that didn't work and a new bell housing.

Just get a new bell housing.
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Old 10-16-2015, 06:38 AM   #49
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I have been down the path of trying to do the welding to fix this because the dude didn't want to buy a new housing.

In the end he ended up paying for welding that didn't work and a new bell housing.

Just get a new bell housing.
Someone who is qualified to weld aluminum will have NO problem at all doing that job.
I have a hot rod with a housing that had a 4" crack on it's shell (the structural part, not like your issue) and welded it and it's been bolted to a 6.6 liter V8 for almost 10 years now.
It will cost you a fraction of a new one.
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Old 11-14-2015, 05:40 PM   #50
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Ended up buying a new case now the only part I have to figure out is setting the backlash and bearing preload back to spec but I also have the old case for sell if anyone is interested
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