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Old 06-27-2011, 09:08 AM   #376
A-man07
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The cams would only rust if exposed to water, not a lack of oil. So either you had a defective headgasket, the deck surfaces aren't flat or the install was effed up.

Why so much sealer on the inside lip of the head?
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:30 AM   #377
08WhiteRex
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^^^Cams will rust if un-oiled and exposed to air.

EDIT: The reason i ask about the cams being correct is because i've heard rumblings that the 08+ have extra galleys that the previous models don't. Lack of those galleys would be lack of oil and bad things for your valvetrain.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:52 AM   #378
binjoau
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I will be super light on the sealant when it goes back together, I honestly dont know why there is that much?? I thought only did thin lines. Obviously not.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:19 PM   #379
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So from bad to worse.

When removing my cam gears using the factory subaru tools 2 of my bolts rounded off. 1 sheared and the other came out just fine.

I am now at the stage of having to drill them out but my hardened drill bits barely do anything. Anyone know what kind of drill bit I should use??

I think god hates me.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:53 PM   #380
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i've been quietly lurking this thread and i feel for you and admire you are attempting this all yourself.

but why are you assembling this motor yourself? especially after so much trouble and predicaments along the way, it would seem one would feel most confident with a reputable builder/tuner shop doing some/most/all of the leg work, with a warranty to back it, then trying it to DIY it and constantly fudging up and reworking it. maybe if it was an older project car or something it'd be a great way to learn, i dont know...

best of luck to you in your endeavors. i'm sure it's only just a matter of more money, more patience, and more time. try to stay optimistic!
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:01 AM   #381
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Its quite simple really, I am a car enthusiast. I enjoy working on my own vehicle and learning as I go along. Does everything go correct first time, no of course not but when its all said and done I can say I built my motor myself. I am not fudging anything, as previously mentioned I am following the shop manual, I am spending good money on good parts and not cutting corners. I have removed my cam gear bolts 2 times previously with no problem at all, I even used the factory Subaru tools!

I understand it may be easy to say, why not have a shop build it when you live in DC but where honestly would you suggest I have it done? I live in Regina, SK, CANADA, we are so far from everything that it would cost me so much money it wouldnt be worth it. Just to ship my shortblock alone was $400!!!

Plus I wouldnt trust a shop that works on V8's and Cobalts to build a Subaru motor. I hope you can kind of see my point here, okay I may be being ambitious but I will succeed no matter how long it takes. Plus my first build went fine and worked great for 3k before the bearings in the pos RAW block I had let go......

I did however find out what had caused my HG issue, there was some debris on one of the surfaces, small bits of gravel that had kept the one corner from sealing. I must of missed it I guess when assembling them. It is annoying but not the end of the world. New gaskets will be on within a few days, then I was just thinking of using some crazy glue and lollipop sticks to put it back together?..... maybe even use fudge as a bonding agent?

Haha, anyway, back to working my ass off, breaking stuff and spending too much money but lets face it, its worth it in the end.

Alex
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:55 AM   #382
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i like where your head is bro. i built my own crap, so i can only blame myself when it fails.

i go into with the attitude, i'll fix it when it fails, not IF it fails. the longer it lasts the better, but when pushing the limits and not rebuilding after every race is just a bonus when she starts right up.

if i had more money i'd be pushing it harder.

keep up the good work alex.
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:01 AM   #383
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Good job Alex. I am with you on doing your own work. I am sure you will get it right this time.
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:16 AM   #384
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I have used two flute solid carbide drills in the past. Also high speed steel drills. The key is not to get the bolts/ bits too hot. The bit will get dull and the bolt will work harden. Use cutting oil.
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:42 PM   #385
binjoau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinSTi05 View Post
I have used two flute solid carbide drills in the past. Also high speed steel drills. The key is not to get the bolts/ bits too hot. The bit will get dull and the bolt will work harden. Use cutting oil.

I ended up using a blue cobalt drill bit. Seemed to do the trick, I know what you mean about keep the temps down though.

Il be ordering up one new cam gear as it cracked when I tried to undo it as well as a new timing belt cover rear piece. I am just super glad my SB appears to be in good order. Even though parts are expensive etc I should have her back on the road Friday.
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:14 AM   #386
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Well I feel bad for you, my problem with my built engine is the spring I have in my Tial EWG, so anyways good luck.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:39 AM   #387
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^^^^^so what happened with ur wastegate?
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:32 PM   #388
binjoau
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So assembly has started again, being super anal this time with everything. With my headgaskets I am using a high tack liquid gasket at the reccomendation from my Subaru tech friend. He said they use it on all there STI's and have had zero problems with them.

Im skeptical but if he has used it 30 times with no issues then it must work.
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:10 PM   #389
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^hope it works man i wanna see this thing running strong!
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:10 PM   #390
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you'll do just fine...take your time.

no obvious issues, aside from the head gasket?
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:46 PM   #391
binjoau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
you'll do just fine...take your time.

no obvious issues, aside from the head gasket?
No everything appears good, I did decide to replace both exhaust cam gears as the other one had a tooth missing, probably would of been fine but I am not going to risk it at this stage. I have already assembled the one head and I will finish the other one tonight. Im cleaning everything again to ensure it all good to go.
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:25 PM   #392
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what did you lash the heads to? nothing over torqued...

what headgasket this time? size?
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:54 PM   #393
binjoau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
what did you lash the heads to? nothing over torqued...

what headgasket this time? size?
studs were done to arp reccomended spec and procedure, 90 i think from memory. This time I am doing the Subaru reccomended specs as I had no problem with it last time. Using OEM STI headgaskets.
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:06 PM   #394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binjoau View Post
studs were done to arp reccomended spec and procedure, 90 i think from memory. This time I am doing the Subaru reccomended specs as I had no problem with it last time. Using OEM STI headgaskets.
Using OEM head gaskets and torque sequence is a good thing but I'd still stick with the ARP recommended 90 ft-lbs.
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:38 PM   #395
binjoau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jirv311 View Post
Using OEM head gaskets and torque sequence is a good thing but I'd still stick with the ARP recommended 90 ft-lbs.
Im in 2 minds about it, i know with my first block i did oem hg and oem specs and it worked great.
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:54 PM   #396
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i ment valve lash...my bad.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:36 PM   #397
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Fwiw, two very reputable subaru shops/builders told me to torque the headstuds exactly to ARP's instructions of 90ft. lbs except the 2 center studs. They like to snug those up just a lil more to 95ft. Lbs. Also use the fsm Alphabetical torque sequence but use ARP's 30-60-90 sequence. Good luck
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:59 PM   #398
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Done several with OEM head gaskets to ARP specs they all work... Don't re invent the wheel. The OEM torque values are meant to work with a bolt, not stud that also has a very different modulus of elasticity, and doesn't use the same thread lube. Use ARP instructions! You stated earlier that some debris caused the failure why the hell would you change your torque method if you clearly defined what caused the failure?
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:54 AM   #399
binjoau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinSTi05 View Post
Done several with OEM head gaskets to ARP specs they all work... Don't re invent the wheel. The OEM torque values are meant to work with a bolt, not stud that also has a very different modulus of elasticity, and doesn't use the same thread lube. Use ARP instructions! You stated earlier that some debris caused the failure why the hell would you change your torque method if you clearly defined what caused the failure?
Because I am using the same procedure I did the first time when it worked flawlessly. I used oem gaskets and the oem procedure and had no problems. I decided to go this route.

Fwiw I went and just checked one of the studs, and following the oem specs puts the torque to just about 125 nm according to my torque bar.

If 90 ft lbs in nm is 90 x 1.35 = 121.5 nm. So really the difference is hardly anything.

Should I and could I have followed the ARP instructions yes. Even though I didnt I am hoping approx 3.5 nm is not enough to affect performance. If it does, il go back and redo it again, I just did what I did first time when it worked.
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:59 AM   #400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
i ment valve lash...my bad.
valve lash all checked out, which confuses me about my ticking, the only other thing I could think of is it was the hg leak??
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