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Old 11-29-2010, 02:08 AM   #1
mattesonb
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Default 17mm Strut bolt stuck and now stripped! what to do?

im so frustrated right now! trying to install a set of 2009 wrx struts in my 2010 forester. should be a straight forward install but i am stuck at what should be a simple step.

the 17mm nut that hold the strut to the lower lower control arm(next to where the end link attaches)

i have tried pb blaster, an electric impact gun, and a torque wrench. nothing will get it loose and now its pretty much stripped.

i dont know what to do...

any advice?
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:19 AM   #2
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funny because the same thing happened to be just a week ago, but the bolt i couldnt get off was on the uppipe. i tried everything you could think of: pb blaster, heat, a long breaker bar, etc. it end up getting rounded off so i went to the store to get a stripped bolt remover, but all that did was make it worse so i ended up cutting the bolt off.

i can almost bet that it was crossthreaded on there which is why nothing is working. when i cut the bolt off i could see that the bolt was cross threaded in my case.
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:49 AM   #3
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I have a dremel I guess I can just grind them off. I just need to get a new bolt
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:18 AM   #4
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If you have enough room you can drill out the center of the bolt until it is large enough to destroy the threads. I have done this at times but go in steps. There is also a nut splitter but that is pretty large. Dremel may be tough.
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:57 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nottofast View Post
If you have enough room you can drill out the center of the bolt until it is large enough to destroy the threads. I have done this at times but go in steps. There is also a nut splitter but that is pretty large. Dremel may be tough.
good idea, im going to call subaru and see if they have the nut/bolt there first
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:03 PM   #6
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this is why i never do suspension work with out quality air tools on hand, now you have to resort to cutting, drilling, grinding and what not.
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:27 PM   #7
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I would take it to a shop and have them extract the bolt and chase out the threads, shouldn't cost much at all. Go with a new bolt ready to be installed.

While you are there, have them break the others loose with air tools so the rest of the job goes easy.

:-)
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:27 PM   #8
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dont tell me you used a 12pt socket
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Old 11-29-2010, 03:17 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Csquared33 View Post
dont tell me you used a 12pt socket
+1

I have a set of 6pt impact sockets for tasks like this.

12pt for the lose.
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:04 PM   #10
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I just ordered new bolts and nuts from irvine Subaru and they arrive Wednesday.

I'm going to swing by a shop the day they come in and have them break the other one loose and extract the old one

I used a 6 point impact socket but by then I had already somewhat deformed the nut messing with it by hand previously so it was already screwed
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattesonb View Post
I just ordered new bolts and nuts from irvine Subaru and they arrive Wednesday.

I'm going to swing by a shop the day they come in and have them break the other one loose and extract the old one

I used a 6 point impact socket but by then I had already somewhat deformed the nut messing with it by hand previously so it was already screwed
I paid my local subaru dealer to do exactly that, extract one broken 17MM bolt and break all others loose (also replace all four with new bolts + nuts) and the total was $150 out the door.

Just a reference so you don't get overcharged. I think it was 1.5 hours labor, plus parts, tax, and random service charges.
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Old 11-30-2010, 12:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parabellum9x19 View Post
I paid my local subaru dealer to do exactly that, extract one broken 17MM bolt and break all others loose (also replace all four with new bolts + nuts) and the total was $150 out the door.

Just a reference so you don't get overcharged. I think it was 1.5 hours labor, plus parts, tax, and random service charges.
wow $150 seems pretty steep... ive spent enough time there hopefully i can get them to do it for free
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Old 11-30-2010, 12:36 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parabellum9x19 View Post
I paid my local subaru dealer to do exactly that, extract one broken 17MM bolt and break all others loose (also replace all four with new bolts + nuts) and the total was $150 out the door.

Just a reference so you don't get overcharged. I think it was 1.5 hours labor, plus parts, tax, and random service charges.
OMG! Thats redic... I dont care if service is 100/hr its cutting off a few bolts and putting $2 worth of hardware back in.

You guys there are specialized shops out there that do things like this and more way better than dealerships do for next to nothing... support your local suby specialist shops!
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Old 11-30-2010, 01:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howfast?

OMG! Thats redic... I dont care if service is 100/hr its cutting off a few bolts and putting $2 worth of hardware back in.

You guys there are specialized shops out there that do things like this and more way better than dealerships do for next to nothing... support your local suby specialist shops!
I always use an indy mech, but in this case i needed it done that day, and my mech is booked 8 days out.

It was a almost two hours of labor to drill out the stud, chase the threads, and replace the other three bolts, it was fair imho.
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Old 11-30-2010, 06:30 PM   #15
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If you are happy it is your money.
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Old 11-30-2010, 07:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nottofast
If you are happy it is your money.
Its was fine. I make good money and it was pricey, but not rape. Needed my car working for a road trip in a few days, no time to wait on my normal guy.

Now i own an impact, should have bought one years ago.
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Old 11-30-2010, 07:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parabellum9x19 View Post
I paid my local subaru dealer to do exactly that, extract one broken 17MM bolt and break all others loose (also replace all four with new bolts + nuts) and the total was $150 out the door.

Just a reference so you don't get overcharged. I think it was 1.5 hours labor, plus parts, tax, and random service charges.
I could have done that in less than 10 minutes. Our rear suspension is so easy to work on (OP there is no strut in the rear of our car).

I guess after doing the rears on my car 8 times with my Koni 'issue' it becomes second nature, but your shop royally screwed you in the behind.
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Old 11-30-2010, 07:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09rexwagon
I could have done that in less than 10 minutes. Our rear suspension is so easy to work on (OP there is no strut in the rear of our car).

I guess after doing the rears on my car 8 times with my Koni 'issue' it becomes second nature, but your shop royally screwed you in the behind.
You can jack up the car, pull off two wheels file a broken bolt flat, set a hole, drill it out in multiple steps, chase out the threads, replace it, than replace three other frozen bolts? Ten minutes?

How about an honest number....
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Old 11-30-2010, 07:20 PM   #19
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No need to jack the car up or take the wheels off....back it up on 2x12s, dremel the stripped nut at an angle until you hit the bolt threads, smack it with a hammer, impact wrench it off instantly, small block of wood under the eye of the shock with a jack below it to support the shock...tap out the bolt, put new one in, torque to 89.2 ftlbs. Repeat with proper tools on the other 3 fasteners. Maybe 15 minutes.

What other fasteners were frozen? The endlink 14mm nuts? Or the LCA to knuckle 17mm nut? Both of those 17mm (LCA to knuckle and shock eye) are only 89.2 ftlbs....should not be hard to loosen.
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:17 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by 09rexwagon View Post
No need to jack the car up or take the wheels off....back it up on 2x12s, dremel the stripped nut at an angle until you hit the bolt threads, smack it with a hammer, impact wrench it off instantly, small block of wood under the eye of the shock with a jack below it to support the shock...tap out the bolt, put new one in, torque to 89.2 ftlbs. Repeat with proper tools on the other 3 fasteners. Maybe 15 minutes.

What other fasteners were frozen? The endlink 14mm nuts? Or the LCA to knuckle 17mm nut? Both of those 17mm (LCA to knuckle and shock eye) are only 89.2 ftlbs....should not be hard to loosen.
Sorry if I wasn't clear, in my case it was a caliper bracket bolt (the 17mm bolt that secures the caliper mounting bracket to the knuckle) that broke, the head twisted off because it was frozen as hell and I wasn't patient enough.

There was no exposed nut, or threads, the hole had to be drilled out and chased.

The other three bolts were the remaining 17mm caliper bolts for the front (two on each side).
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:36 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parabellum9x19 View Post
Sorry if I wasn't clear, in my case it was a caliper bracket bolt (the 17mm bolt that secures the caliper mounting bracket to the knuckle) that broke, the head twisted off because it was frozen as hell and I wasn't patient enough.

There was no exposed nut, or threads, the hole had to be drilled out and chased.

The other three bolts were the remaining 17mm caliper bolts for the front (two on each side).
Haha, oh ok. I assumed you were talking about the rear suspension nuts like the OP was .

On that note, when I put my extended studs in the front, the caliper to knuckle bolts were pretty easy. 6pt closed end wrench and a few taps of a BFH. Impact is much better than just yanking on it. If I remember correctly, that was a ~60 ftlb fastener.
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:38 PM   #22
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Haha, oh ok. I assumed you were talking about the rear suspension nuts like the OP was .

On that note, when I put my extended studs in the front, the caliper to knuckle bolts were pretty easy. 6pt closed end wrench and a few taps of a BFH. Impact is much better than just yanking on it. If I remember correctly, that was a ~60 ftlb fastener.
Yeah man my bad on that one for sure....its different when you HAVE to drill out the hole, adds a lot of time.

I bought the Craftsman 250ft*lb electric impact (plug in, not battery) and its been pretty awesome so far. I may encounter a job where I need a SRS BSNS air impact that does 400+...but for now this one is doing all the jobs I need it to.
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:40 PM   #23
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Unfortunately, those caliper bolts are hard to get to with an impact gun. Like I said a 6point open end wrench and a hammer makes a nice faux impact gun along with some catalyst. You do have an 08 and live in a much colder place so you probably have more corrosion on your car than my 13k mile 09 in NC .
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:42 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 09rexwagon View Post
Unfortunately, those caliper bolts are hard to get to with an impact gun. Like I said a 6point open end wrench and a hammer makes a nice faux impact gun along with some catalyst. You do have an 08 and live in a much colder place so you probably have more corrosion on your car than my 13k mile 09 in NC .
Yes the rust is absolutely horrible here.



And my impact fits on fine, just remove the wheel and max out the steering to the opposite direction of the side you are on, and it goes on without even a joint extension.

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Old 12-01-2010, 06:27 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattesonb View Post
im so frustrated right now! trying to install a set of 2009 wrx struts in my 2010 forester. should be a straight forward install but i am stuck at what should be a simple step.

the 17mm nut that hold the strut to the lower lower control arm(next to where the end link attaches)

i have tried pb blaster, an electric impact gun, and a torque wrench. nothing will get it loose and now its pretty much stripped.

i dont know what to do...

any advice?

The GH/GR chassis was way way *breathe* way easier to wrench on than the GD. When my best friend and I did the spring swap; with hand tools only, not one broken or stripped nut/bolt, in 2 hours.

Just remember....'lefty loosy, righty tighty' & use the proper tools for the job.
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