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Old 12-09-2010, 06:35 PM   #1
subaru_steve
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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Location: Williamsport, Pa
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2004 Subaru WRX
WRB Stage II

Lightbulb Fully Adjustable Short Throw Shifter

So I just finished my first semester in Automated Machining Engineering and for a final time filler I decided to make an Adjustable Shifter/Shift Knob. The one in my car was cross threaded by the previous owner and impossible to get off so I decided to make my own for free.

Features
- The bottom section is threaded with a set screw to allow full adjustability to set bushing cylinder at proper height.
- Center bushing cylinder is held with a set screw, allowing ease of locating.
- Top rod can be adjusted with over 1" of height adjustment!!!

Once I figure out all the glitches and make a final blueprint/ build procedure I will try to make a few (I know I can't sell on here, you will have to find me on another forum if I do decide to make a few extra)

*This is a prototype that I am trying out, hence the unfinished look*







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Last edited by subaru_steve; 12-09-2010 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 12-09-2010, 07:43 PM   #2
wantsti
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looks like it will work.
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Old 12-09-2010, 07:57 PM   #3
sniper1rfa
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Nylon tipped set screws? EDIT: or brass.

Set screws perpendicular to shafts like that drive me nuts. It's a pretty terrible method for securing things.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:56 PM   #4
ZeroDrift
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Looks nice! How will the set screws keep everything in place with vibration? Do they have a flat surface to mate against or will it mar the threads/parts?

-Reason I mention this is from bad experiences from set screws backing out or damaging the part it was holding.
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:40 AM   #5
subaru_steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper1rfa View Post
Nylon tipped set screws? EDIT: or brass.

Set screws perpendicular to shafts like that drive me nuts. It's a pretty terrible method for securing things.
Just steel

I will take this into consideration, this prototype was more to see if I had the capability to produce something with easy machining practices and allow it to be withint tolerance. I will gladly look into alternatives to this for my next shifter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroDrift View Post
Looks nice! How will the set screws keep everything in place with vibration? Do they have a flat surface to mate against or will it mar the threads/parts?

-Reason I mention this is from bad experiences from set screws backing out or damaging the part it was holding.
Like I said, it was a quick easy fix for what I was trying to do. I know they mark the thread pretty bad so I was hoping to "Set it and Forget it". I will look into other options and hope they don't back out, maybe I'll keep an Allen wrench in the car with me

Thanks for the input guys!

Last edited by subaru_steve; 12-10-2010 at 01:52 AM.
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Old 12-10-2010, 03:59 PM   #6
xluben
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Looks like a fun project and usable design. If you aren't adjusting it all the time, I think the set screws should work. I would suggest a non-permanent thread locker (ie. blue loctite) on the set screws though. Have you checked clearance in the car? The main piece looks a bit chunky. Might interfere with some of the trim pieces. If you're just doing it for fun, have you considered using something similar to the COBB/MODE design? It is fully adjustable and the non-threaded rods are clamped in very well, without the need to put a set screw into the side of the a threaded rod.
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:53 PM   #7
subaru_steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Looks like a fun project and usable design. If you aren't adjusting it all the time, I think the set screws should work. I would suggest a non-permanent thread locker (ie. blue loctite) on the set screws though. Have you checked clearance in the car? The main piece looks a bit chunky. Might interfere with some of the trim pieces. If you're just doing it for fun, have you considered using something similar to the COBB/MODE design? It is fully adjustable and the non-threaded rods are clamped in very well, without the need to put a set screw into the side of the a threaded rod.
Actually I gave the bottom threaded section with the pivot ball around .500" of clearance to play with any trim down there. I have held it next to my stock short shifter for a match up and it looks like it fill fit just fine. I figured with this being fully adjustable I will be able to play with it to meet most quirks I might run into. For instance I was able to get a rough distance of 2" from the top of the pivot ball to the center of the bushing cylinder, so I have made my adjustability on that bottom threaded rod enough to move .250"+/-. The cylinder itself can be moved from side to side incase I have it off by a few thousands. Once I find the fit and find what i like and don't like I will make a new prototype in the new semester.

I am currently mocking up prototypes in AutoCAD of how to better hold the rods. I still like having a thread for the top section with perhaps a lock nut in place of a set screw. The bottom I am looking into doing a "pinch" design. I have the next month to try out what I made and see how it goes, and then make some final fixes and produce a more appropriate part.

Thanks for all the help guys, I never touched a metal lathe/mill before this semester so I am so excited to be making my own stuff and get so excited to see a drawing I made turn into a part in my hand! I can't wait to get on some CNC, EDM, etc in the coming semesters.
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