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Old 07-05-2002, 12:44 AM   #1
20mm
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Question First time out to the track

Well I finally finished my nitrous install and made it out to the track last night to test it out. Now bear in mind this is my first time ever racing 1/4 mile, but this is my best time.

Reaction --- .969
60ft --- 1.978
1/8 ET --- 9.316
1/8 MPH --- 72.69
1/4 ET --- 14.521
1/4 MPH --- 92.83

I'm pretty happy with that, what do you guys think? There's a couple things that have me thinking I can get into the 13's with a little work. My reaction time alone could get me a half second if I can just get the practice to cut a perfect light. I could also take out the spare and some boxes I had in the trunk, that could net me maybe a 1/10 sec. But the major limiting factor was my clutch, I completely fried it on the second run and it was never the same. Here's how it went, 5k rpm launch, slip clutch...it never grabs, shift into 2nd and floor it, still wont grab, slips all the way to redline. So I shut it down and coast the rest of that run. So I figure the stock clutch (which is already abused from autox) just cant handle a nitrous powered, awd launch and crapped out on me. I took it easy on the launch the rest of the night and only armed the nitrous after 1st gear, never cut anything slower than a 14.9 and I did about 8 runs. So what do you guys think? If I lightened the car a little and cut a perfect light the setup could reach 13's right? And with a new clutchmasters clutch who knows, maybe even better. Just want some advice from you guys that have done 1/4 miles alot, think I can reach 13's with the 55 shot?

-Chad

PS- also keep in mind that these times were run in Hawaii with a *****ty track (its all we've got), 82% humidity, and a stiff headwind
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Old 07-05-2002, 01:44 AM   #2
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Default Re: First time out to the track

Quote:
Originally posted by 20mm
There's a couple things that have me thinking I can get into the 13's with a little work. My reaction time alone could get me a half second if I can just get the practice to cut a perfect light.
That is such a common misconception. RT is NOT factored into ET. They have nothing to do with each other. If your not bracket racing, RT does not matter. Or if you just wanna get there first. But as far as ET, it isnt factored in. ET is counted from when you pass first beams, to last beams. RT is time it takes you from green light, till you trip the first beam.
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Old 07-05-2002, 02:06 AM   #3
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Just to let you know, Your Reaction Time is not part of your 1/4 mile time...the clock doesn't start counting until your wheel passes the sensor.

What elevation are you running, or was it especially hot/humid? Your time seems a little slow to me for stock + Nitrous...how big a shot is the Nitrous?

Do you have any engine managment (if not, this may be all you're missing)? Do you have an MBC (if not get one, it helps and it's cheap)?

If you are at sea level with a 50-60 wet shot I would expect 13.5 or better.

Good 60 foot time if it's your first time.
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Old 07-05-2002, 02:14 AM   #4
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Good times for your first time at the track.. A 14.5 is almost a whole second quicker than a stock 2.5RS right? Thats not bad at all IMO. Do you have any other mods?
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Old 07-05-2002, 05:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sordid Philosopher

Do you have an MBC (if not get one, it helps and it's cheap)?
If you are at sea level with a 50-60 wet shot I would expect 13.5 or better.
I have a 2.5RS, no turbo, and no mbc

-Chad.
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Old 07-05-2002, 05:21 AM   #6
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Default Re: First time out to the track

Quote:
Originally posted by 20mm

PS- also keep in mind that these times were run in Hawaii with a *****ty track (its all we've got), 82% humidity, and a stiff headwind
Its the Zex system, 55 dry shot. Everyone says identical setups run almost 5/10ths quicker on the mainland than out here in humid ass hawaii. I hoping to reach a 13.9 out here (which I think is completely possible given the right conditions and the right launch), that should be good for a 13.4 on the mainland. Pretty good for an RS with a 55 shot.

-Chad.
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Old 07-05-2002, 09:30 AM   #7
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ET= elapsed time, timing starts when the vehicle breaks out of the staging lights... length of time the vehicle is moving within the quarter mile. Ends at 1/4 mile trap.

RT= reaction time, the amount of time +0.500 (0.400 on a pro-tree) that it took for the vehicle to break the staging lights when the tree goes green.

def
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Old 07-05-2002, 09:32 AM   #8
Ethan
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I THINK RS_NW ran a 14.3 with his nitrous set-up. Regardless your times are pretty good I think for no turbo
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Old 07-05-2002, 09:52 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by dug-e-fresh
RT= reaction time, the amount of time +0.500 (0.400 on a pro-tree) that it took for the vehicle to break the staging lights when the tree goes green.

def
Usually it doesnt add .5 to it. Maybe it would subtract .5. That would sorta make sense. But I have hardly ever seen one done that way. Anyways, most of the time you just want to make sure you do not go under .500.
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Old 07-05-2002, 10:26 AM   #10
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The 0.500, which is considered perfect is the length of time from which the last amber is illuminated to when the green is illuminated. There are 0.500 seconds between each amber.

When you see an RT of 0.600, that means that the green light had been on for 0.1 seconds before you began moving or left the the staging lights. Thus to get an RT time, you take your actual reaction time and ADD 0.500.

def
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Old 07-05-2002, 10:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by dug-e-fresh
The 0.500, which is considered perfect is the length of time from which the last amber is illuminated to when the green is illuminated. There are 0.500 seconds between each amber.

When you see an RT of 0.600, that means that the green light had been on for 0.1 seconds before you began moving or left the the staging lights. Thus to get an RT time, you take your actual reaction time and ADD 0.500.

def
Ya, I was all mixed up. Thanks for correcting me.
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Old 07-05-2002, 10:45 AM   #12
dug-e-fresh
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yeah, yeah, yeah
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Old 07-06-2002, 09:21 AM   #13
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The stage beams are set 6 inches apart and 1 9/16 inches off the ground. It is a light or infrared beam projected across the surface of the track to a photo cell in the middle of the track. When your front tire breaks both beams you are staged. Only when the second beam comes back together does the et clock begin. To get the best et, you need to shallow stage. Just roll in deep enought to barely light the second stage bulb. A deep stage (tuning out the top light) will slow your overall et by a .10 to .14 secs.

Tom
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