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Old 01-12-2011, 02:02 PM   #26
auslyle
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also who knows. maybe sand got past my filter some how....
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:03 PM   #27
Seventh
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Over sized oil pan with baffle FTW?
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auslyle View Post
this is true, but at high RPM's drifting drift wood for 15 min non stop might have had something do to with it. oil sloshing to one side of the block, maybe not getting back to the bottom of the pan fast enough... idk. it was brad new oil as of 200 miles before this happened.
Yeah, oil starvation from g-loading is MUCH more likely than the pump not being large enough. From what you describe doing, you need a dry-sump setup.
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:06 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Seventh View Post
Over sized oil pan with baffle FTW?
Won't help that much if he's got the car loaded to one side for long periods of time. The problem is that prolonged g-loads cause the outside valvecover to fill up with oil and the sump goes dry. Baffling and increased volume would help with shorter side loads but if he's holding it sideways for 30 seconds or more, there's nothing but a dry sump that'll work.
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:11 PM   #30
watchdoc
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So is a baffled pan necessary for HPDE regulars? I have just always made sure I had 5-5.5 quarts in the pan (and I don't rev the engine to 7k)
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:19 PM   #31
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Get an oil pressure gauge. If it never flickers on track, don't worry about things.
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:21 PM   #32
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we use a big moroso pan and had a cosworth pan before that on our race car and have never had an oiling issue (we also added an accumulator last season).

Just switching to the newer subaru pan will help, and you should use HX clearance race rod bearings.

Here's what I did to my own car last year:

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Old 01-12-2011, 02:26 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by jamal View Post
Just switching to the newer subaru pan will help, and you should use HX clearance race rod bearings.
Race or not race isn't that big of an issue, really. However, if it's a car that's going to get beat on hard, you definitely want to build the bearings to the WIDE end of tolerance. Wither that means going with bearings that are thinner or grinding the crank doesn't really matter. You just need it looser. Which may necessitate a 9mm or 10mm pump but you won't know until you start it the first time.
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Old 01-12-2011, 03:09 PM   #34
watchdoc
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What's better about the newer style pans? My RS is an 02. Also, how much do they cost? A part number would be great.
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Old 01-12-2011, 04:00 PM   #35
auslyle
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I'm defiantly considering just rebuilding this block... what bearings should I go with? or should just wait till i see how much they have to grind off first then decide?
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Old 01-12-2011, 04:22 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by auslyle View Post
I'm defiantly considering just rebuilding this block... what bearings should I go with? or should just wait till i see how much they have to grind off first then decide?
You always have to wait for them to fix the crank and rods. Only then can you spec bearings.
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Old 01-12-2011, 04:44 PM   #37
auslyle
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thats what I figured
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Old 01-14-2011, 02:19 AM   #38
superhero
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Lightbulb try to help the engine die less slowly

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Originally Posted by williaty View Post
While the oil is cold, the engine is dying. You need to get the oil up to temp as fast as possible. However, if you were to go WOT (which would warm the engine up really fast), the engine would start dying much faster. If you leave it at idle, the engine dies slowly for a long time. So you compromise by using a little throttle to get the oil warm faster but keeping the revs and engine load low to prevent the engine from dying faster.
try to help the engine die less slowly... got it... makes sense... thanks
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