Installing af boost gauge onto 2011 sti

[jh.]

Im installing an aftermarket boost gauge onto my 2011 STI.

Was wondering where did you guys tap in for the vacuum feed.

Also where to tap in for:

12v constant
12v switched
ground
dimmer switch

Thanks in advance!

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[Sp2Pilot]

T into the bypass valve

Are you wanting to tap into actual wires, or use the fuse panel?

Fuse panel, you could do this.
• Red wire - 12 volt constant
• Orange wire - Ignition
• Yellow wire - light source / illumination
• Black wire - Ground

But you have 5 including the ground?
• Red - #3 in fuse box
• Orange - #5 in fuse box
• Yellow - #24 in fuse box
• Brown - # 16 in fuse box

If you go the above route, I would recommend using the busman add a circuit things, pricey, but prob a little safer than just shoving a a wire into each fuse slot.


Or you could tap into the wires in the clock. Should be close to this.
Clock pod harness wires
BATTERY
GROUND
LIGHTS ON
IGNITION

You hook up your boost gauge wiring like this:
Red to 12V
Black to Ground
White to Lights on
Orange to ignition

[Suby WRX]

Subscribed

Gonna be doing this on my 2011 wrx soon and would also like to know how. Post pics when u do yours!

[Landin2010]

for the sake of easyness if you dont know 100% what youre doing get the factory boost gauge kit because the wiring is plug and play and it comes with a full step by step instruction manual.

as for me, i used an add a line to get my 12v constant and ignition switched off of the fuse panel. essentially it looks like a fuse with a wire coming off of it so that you can use one power source for more than one thing while still fusing each individual piece.

[jh.]

I'm going to use T taps and tap into a harness. I just don't know where is the easiest harness to go off of.

Also where is the easiest way to route the wires through the firewall?

Anyone have a DIY for the center console and trim removal?

[Suby WRX]

Originally Posted by jh.

I'm going to use T taps and tap into a harness. I just don't know where is the easiest harness to go off of.

Also where is the easiest way to route the wires through the firewall?

Anyone have a DIY for the center console and trim removal?

The center consol/trim is easy I did it recently

open the doors, take off the big triangle shaped piece inbetween the door and the dash, then there are screws to take the vents off and the rest of the trim and console u just pop off. Just go slow pulling the pieces off. The piece of trim closest to the steering wheel is tucked under the hood for the spedometer so I took that off too. Not sure if its 100% necessary but I don't like to take shortcuts.

Let me know if u need anymore help

[jh.]

Originally Posted by Suby WRX

The center consol/trim is easy I did it recently

open the doors, take off the big triangle shaped piece inbetween the door and the dash, then there are screws to take the vents off and the rest of the trim and console u just pop off. Just go slow pulling the pieces off. The piece of trim closest to the steering wheel is tucked under the hood for the spedometer so I took that off too. Not sure if its 100% necessary but I don't like to take shortcuts.

Let me know if u need anymore help

Alright I'll give that a try. How about going through the firewall?

[Suby WRX]

Originally Posted by jh.

Alright I'll give that a try. How about going through the firewall?

Haven't done that yet but it usually isn't too big of a pain... just try and follow wires that are already there and lead into the inside of the car and just squeeze what u need thru with those

[FLDY10]

Do a search in google "2008 sti maddad boost gauge install" and click first link.

[jh.]

Originally Posted by FLDY10

Do a search in google "2008 sti maddad boost gauge install" and click first link.

Alright, so I googled it and I downloaded the pdf file. Looks pretty straight forward...as for the wiring, let me confirm this...

I'm going by the picture in the pdf file.

RED - #3
ORANGE - #5
YELLOW - #24
BROWN - #16

^^These are going off of the numbered fuses.

Can anyone confirm what is what?

RED = CONSTANT 12V ???
ORANGE = SWITCHED 12V ???
YELLOW = LIGHT SWITCH (ILLUMINATION) ???
BROWN = GROUND ???

[HXC573]

i actually just pulled the SPT boost gauge out of my 2011 wrx and posted it on the front left a pillar of my 2011 sti about 4 inches underneath my pillar airbag and it came out great just make sure you use hose clamps no matter what any fast takeoffs with make the hose shoot right off. i will post pics in a couples hours.

[jh.]

Alright...did some more research and fuses:

#3 - Door Lock (use for constant 12v?)
#24 - Audio Unit (use for switched 12v?)
#16 - Illumination (use for dimmer/illumination switch?)
Ground is ground...

^^Can anyone confirm these fuses and use for them?^^

As for fuse #5 - Combination meter clock...what would I use this fuse for?

[xluben]

I just installed a Defi boost gauge into my 2011 WRX today. It has the following wires:

Orange - IGN
Red - 12V
White - Illumination
Black - GND

I grounded the black wire to a bolt. Then I tried the following:

Orange - Fuse 24
Red - Fuse 24
White - Fuse 14

Illumination works fine. The gauge dims when I turn the lights on. The gauge turns on and does the sweep when I turn the key to the ACC position (similar action to the OEM gauges). But then when I actually turn the car on, the boost gauge turns of and goes through the startup sequence again.

So, based on what you just posted I tried moving the red wire:

Orange - Fuse 24
Red - Fuse 3
White - Fuse 14

Still does the same thing. Everything seems to work fine, but the gauge goes through the startup sequence twice. Any help would be appreciated. I assume the problem here is with my red wire? Any suggestions for other fuses to try?

[xabre1200]

Thinking about doing the same to my '11 WRX. Which boost gauge are you getting btw? SPT one? Defi?

[jh.]

Try using the fuses I chose. They make sense because...

#3 - Door lock. The door lock system has to have CONSTANT 12v at all time (so you can use your fob to unlock the doors)
#24 - Audio unit. No radio when the car is OFF...Turn to ACC and it powers up, so I use this as a SWITCHED 12v
#16 - Illumination. I believe this works off of your headlight switch. But I think it might work better if you were to tap into the dimmer switch on the left side

Im using a STRI gauge so my wire colors are different from yours. But all gauges use the same wiring diagram

[xabre1200]

[xluben]

Originally Posted by xabre1200

Thinking about doing the same to my '11 WRX. Which boost gauge are you getting btw? SPT one? Defi?

Originally Posted by xabre1200

http://www.dveri.kiev.ua/out/IMG_7767.jpg
http://www.dveri.kiev.ua/out/IMG_7766.jpg

This thread is for help with wiring. Not posting random pictures and trying to get people to help you decide what to buy.

Originally Posted by jh.

Try using the fuses I chose. They make sense because...

#3 - Door lock. The door lock system has to have CONSTANT 12v at all time (so you can use your fob to unlock the doors)
#24 - Audio unit. No radio when the car is OFF...Turn to ACC and it powers up, so I use this as a SWITCHED 12v
#16 - Illumination. I believe this works off of your headlight switch. But I think it might work better if you were to tap into the dimmer switch on the left side

Im using a STRI gauge so my wire colors are different from yours. But all gauges use the same wiring diagram

Is your gauge working correctly (including startup)?

See my trimmed down explanation of my current setup below:

Originally Posted by xluben

Orange - IGN
Red - 12V
White - Illumination
Black - GND

Orange - Fuse 24
Red - Fuse 3
White - Fuse 14

Illumination works fine. The gauge dims when I turn the lights on. The gauge turns on and does the sweep when I turn the key to the ACC position (similar action to the OEM gauges). But then when I actually turn the car on, the boost gauge turns of and goes through the startup sequence again.

I do have the Red (12V) wire going to Fuse 3 as you suggested. Everything seems to be working, but my gauge still loses power and restarts when I turn the car over. I looked through some of the threads on the older models and it seems this was an issue for them as well. Someone eventually found the right fuse, but I can't seem to find what it would be for the 08+ WRX's.

So, I'm still under the assumption that it's the Red (constant 12V) wire that's in the wrong spot. If you come up with any other places you suggest trying, I am all ears!

[xluben]

Originally Posted by jh.

#3 - Door lock. The door lock system has to have CONSTANT 12v at all time (so you can use your fob to unlock the doors)
#24 - Audio unit. No radio when the car is OFF...Turn to ACC and it powers up, so I use this as a SWITCHED 12v
#16 - Illumination. I believe this works off of your headlight switch. But I think it might work better if you were to tap into the dimmer switch on the left side

Still wanted to confirm if the above is working for you?

I have confirmed that both the #3 and #24 fuse BOTH will momentarily lose power when you turn the car on.

I tried a bunch of different fuses and combinations, but without being able to tell which fuse (or both) are causing the turn off during startup it's really hard to figure out. I gave up and put them back to what you had suggested, but it's still doing the double sweep (on at ACC and one when you turn the car on).

[xluben]

Well, turns out if I just turn my car on immediately, without waiting at the ACC position, the gauge only sweeps once, but it is later than the OEM gauges. If I do stop at the ACC position the sweep is pretty well in sync with OEM. I'm still not sure if I have it wired right, but it definitely doesn't affect the performance of the gauge once the car is on. If someone does find a better way, I will probably re-do my wiring, but otherwise I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

[jh.]

Alright so Ive finished my install...Ill make a DIY for you guys who need help. My wiring choices...seem to work fine. I have to recheck your issue xluben.

[jh.]

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...0#post33023400

[LTD77]

I just installed a boost gauge yesterday on my 2011 sedan. I used the add a line setup out of the fuse box but ran into some minor issues. I dont remember the exact fuses #'s that I tied to. For the 12v constant I used a fuse labeled as 12v battery, used #16 for the illumination. Those both worked perfectly. My problem came when I tied into a fuse for the acc. I tied off the fuse that operates the clock and the gauge worked perfectly but the clock and my entire dash gauges did not work. So then I went to #24 which is the audio unit and again the gauge worked fine, but the audio does not work. When I pull the add a line out and plug the fuse back in alone it works fine. I am just going to find another source for the acc, but was wondering if anyone else encountered this.

[michael_cano]

my car died on me when i tried to add a line. my car won't even turn over now. i put it completely back to stock and it still doesn't work. i must've fried something but idk what.

[TotallyC]

Originally Posted by xluben

Well, turns out if I just turn my car on immediately, without waiting at the ACC position, the gauge only sweeps once, but it is later than the OEM gauges. If I do stop at the ACC position the sweep is pretty well in sync with OEM. I'm still not sure if I have it wired right, but it definitely doesn't affect the performance of the gauge once the car is on. If someone does find a better way, I will probably re-do my wiring, but otherwise I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

Xluben,

Did your issue with the double sweep ever get resolved?

[00camaro16]

Ltd77 sounds like your add-a-circuit is bad try a new one. Also remember those add-a-circuit are only good up to 10amps and are really un-safe to use on more.