Outback overheating

onefastgoat · 01-20-2011, 12:21 PM

Hey guys! I have a problem with my daily driver at the moment and I can not for the life of me seem to figure it out. Here are the symptoms and what has been replaced and what not.

Info

4 cylinder Outback
5 speed manual
125,000 miles.

The car will heat up normally no knocking or odd noises coming from the engine. Once the car is at the running temperature right in the middle with the heater blowing out normal hot air. Once it gets there after about 5 minutes the temperature will start to go up slowly only while the car is driving. The second the car is either not moving i.e idling or i push the clutch in and coast the cars temperature will start to go back down to normal and reach the normal operating temp. Now this is were it gets weird if the car is over heating and you push the clutch and rev the car and hold it at 3k or 4k the cars temperature will go down!!!!! This completely blows my mind. There is no exhaust gas coming out of the radiator no oil in there either.

Thermostat has been replaced and coolant has been properly flushed and burped.

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PA-Outback2000 · 01-20-2011, 01:19 PM

burped?

check coolant usage over a week to see if it goes down. check head gasket area and for leaks under the car, they may be going. what yr car is it?

beaconhillkilla · 01-20-2011, 01:57 PM

Even if there isn't any smoke or oil in the coolant, check for a head gasket. Those cars are absolutely notorious for blowing them.

onefastgoat · 01-20-2011, 02:33 PM

The year is a 2002 if that helps.

Bluefoton · 01-20-2011, 06:40 PM

I vote for HG as well. It creates bubbes in your coolant. At idle when heated after a drive, it impedes coolant circulation, so it heats more. Reving it a bit turns the water pump, which stirrs the bubble and helps cooling it as well. Sorry, had the very same symptoms just recently.

By the way - if you're on your stock clutch, might be worth replacing it when the HGs are done. The engine is out, the clutch is in the open, so it takes literally zero additional work to replace it - you are saving a few hundreds $ in labour (assuming you want to keep the car for a while).

01-20-2011, 12:21 PM	#1
onefastgoat Scooby Newbie Member#: 230224 Join Date: Nov 2009	Outback overheating Hey guys! I have a problem with my daily driver at the moment and I can not for the life of me seem to figure it out. Here are the symptoms and what has been replaced and what not. Info 4 cylinder Outback 5 speed manual 125,000 miles. The car will heat up normally no knocking or odd noises coming from the engine. Once the car is at the running temperature right in the middle with the heater blowing out normal hot air. Once it gets there after about 5 minutes the temperature will start to go up slowly only while the car is driving. The second the car is either not moving i.e idling or i push the clutch in and coast the cars temperature will start to go back down to normal and reach the normal operating temp. Now this is were it gets weird if the car is over heating and you push the clutch and rev the car and hold it at 3k or 4k the cars temperature will go down!!!!! This completely blows my mind. There is no exhaust gas coming out of the radiator no oil in there either. Thermostat has been replaced and coolant has been properly flushed and burped. * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

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01-20-2011, 01:19 PM	#2
PA-Outback2000 Scooby Specialist Member#: 161832 Join Date: Oct 2007 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: PA Vehicle: 2000 Outback Limited Black	burped? check coolant usage over a week to see if it goes down. check head gasket area and for leaks under the car, they may be going. what yr car is it?

01-20-2011, 01:57 PM	#3
beaconhillkilla Scooby Specialist Member#: 174710 Join Date: Mar 2008 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Seattle Vehicle: 1992 Legacy SS	Even if there isn't any smoke or oil in the coolant, check for a head gasket. Those cars are absolutely notorious for blowing them.

01-20-2011, 02:33 PM	#4
onefastgoat Scooby Newbie Member#: 230224 Join Date: Nov 2009	The year is a 2002 if that helps.

01-20-2011, 06:40 PM	#5
Bluefoton Scooby Specialist Member#: 141373 Join Date: Feb 2007 Chapter/Region: E. Canada Location: Quebec, QC Vehicle: 2008 2.5i-hatch - now with a HID retrofit	I vote for HG as well. It creates bubbes in your coolant. At idle when heated after a drive, it impedes coolant circulation, so it heats more. Reving it a bit turns the water pump, which stirrs the bubble and helps cooling it as well. Sorry, had the very same symptoms just recently. By the way - if you're on your stock clutch, might be worth replacing it when the HGs are done. The engine is out, the clutch is in the open, so it takes literally zero additional work to replace it - you are saving a few hundreds $ in labour (assuming you want to keep the car for a while).