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Old 06-03-2011, 09:56 PM   #26
Tyrial
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Nice write-up, thanks for the heads up on the slightly painful install.
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Old 06-04-2011, 09:40 PM   #27
gsrcrxsi
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installed it. what a pain in the ass. took like 2 hours of struggling and fighting to get my hands in there. and i have small hands lol. no room for hands or tools or anything.

felt a little different, maybe just slightly stiffer pedal feel. installed the brace before doing SS lines and 4 pots. still even felt about the same after lines and 4-pots. better feel though.
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:13 PM   #28
flycaster
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Yeah, I have one in my '11 WRX and frankly the pads and lines made a MUCH bigger difference. If you're tracking the car, the slightly firmer peddle would matter, but on the street I think this mod is over-rated. Just for kicks, I backed the plunger off completely and the difference in feel was noticable, but not by much. Just my experience.
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Old 07-05-2011, 09:30 PM   #29
irish44j
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just for some visuals, here's some vid I just shot of firewall flex with the MC brace on my 09 backed off (cap removed) to 1/8" gap. As you can see, with moderate pumping there is 1/16-3/32" of flex. I would guess that would be even more under aggressive braking.

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Old 07-07-2011, 09:48 PM   #30
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For other '11 owners, did you have to bend the fuel line bracket or ziptie the fuel lines after you had it all together?

I have not toyed with it too much, but I had to bend the fuel line bracket to avoid the bottom fuel line from hitting the end of the MC brace, once installed. With it bent outward, I had to remove the top line from the clip and ziptie it to the middle line.

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Old 07-07-2011, 10:05 PM   #31
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It looks like you forgot to flip the fuel line clip around to the other side of the bracket. Once you do that, reinstall the lines and then bend the bracket away from the tower wall a bit to clear. It'll take you 30 seconds to fix that - no zippies necessary.

Last edited by flycaster; 07-07-2011 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:17 PM   #32
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double post
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:32 PM   #33
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flycaster View Post
It looks like you forgot to flip the fuel line clip around to the other side of the bracket. Once you do that, reinstall the lines and then bend the bracket away from the tower wall a bit to clear. It'll take you 30 seconds to fix that - no zippies necessary.
I did try that. The top and middle ones fit fine, but the bottom one had an issue with the round black thing (pulse modulator?) facing right into the bracket. If I could loosen the clamps and rotate it away from the bracket (after flipping the bracket), it would fit fine.

Should I try to loosen the clamps? Without rotating the round black part, there is zero chance that the lower line will fit in the bracket.
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:42 PM   #34
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Yes, just loosten the clamps a little, rotate it, retighten, done.
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:58 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flycaster View Post
Yes, just loosten the clamps a little, rotate it, retighten, done.
I'll give that a try. I am always hesitant to F with fuel lines.
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Old 07-07-2011, 11:03 PM   #36
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It's OK - that's what clamps are for.
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Old 07-24-2011, 05:39 PM   #37
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Just installed this today. I developed a technique that allowed me to put it on pretty easily. After you remove the fuel line bracket and get it out of the way, get the brace in there and then install the two longer bolts that hold the fuel line bracket in place. Just finger tighten them, without the fuel line bracket in there. This will hold the brace in place while you install the three bolts on the other side. Be sure to take the fuel line bracket bolts back out before tightening the strut tower bolts so you can adjust the positioning of the brace. There is some play in the holes and I have to loosen mine back up and adjust because mine is sitting up too high. I can't even fit the cup in there....

The best tool to use to me is a 10mm nut driver. It is tight but you can get it on all the bolts to get them most of them snug. Then use something like a box end wrench or palm ratchet to tighten the rest of the way. This should help people get it done much faster. I also pushed over the line that comes out of the top of the master cylinder (2011 only?) just enough to get a tiny bit more room. I am not recommending that.
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Old 07-24-2011, 06:49 PM   #38
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would this setup work on a 2010 2.5i, brace and stainless lines. Just my dd, but I hate the brakes on this car

find these stainless lines, i think they will work
http://turninconcepts.com/product_in...oducts_id=1133

Last edited by whis9; 07-24-2011 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:01 PM   #39
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no reason it shouldn't.....AFAIK the M/C is the same....
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:47 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
For other '11 owners, did you have to bend the fuel line bracket or ziptie the fuel lines after you had it all together?

I have not toyed with it too much, but I had to bend the fuel line bracket to avoid the bottom fuel line from hitting the end of the MC brace, once installed. With it bent outward, I had to remove the top line from the clip and ziptie it to the middle line.

I too had trouble with the bottom fuel line (black round thing) with it facing the wrong way. turns out you can turn the sucker 180 degrees and then voila, it clips on.

this was such a PITA like everyone says. i still feel like the first 1/2 to 1 inch of brake pedal is the same though where everything after that is alot firmer.
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:19 PM   #41
02BlueSuperRoo
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Already posted this info a while ago but forgot :-/
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:16 PM   #42
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Man.... im at the process of doing this install

I got 2 out of the 3 short bolts on, lost the other bolt somewhere... have to get another one...

But for the 2 longer bolts how the hell do u fit a hand in there to tighten it in the strut wall....?
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:03 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenderpicks
Man.... im at the process of doing this install

I got 2 out of the 3 short bolts on, lost the other bolt somewhere... have to get another one...

But for the 2 longer bolts how the hell do u fit a hand in there to tighten it in the strut wall....?
Good luck getting your fingers in there! I used a 3/8 extension and got the thread started by hand.
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:44 PM   #44
fenderpicks
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there is no room to even put that long bolt in between the brace and the oem bracket....
idk if having a Process west TMIC is blocking me or something.
But i will finish this tomorrow lol....
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:24 AM   #45
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Update : Im finally done...
i just couldnt stand the brace being half bolted on.
Went out to my garage at 12 night time, finish up putting the bolts in the strut tower wall.

Here is a tip that i have not seen anyone post and that i invented hopefully =] (i just want to take credit lol)

I was using a 1/4 size ratchet extension with a deep socket, put the short/long bolt in the socket and put tape over the socket and partial on the bolt, just to hold on to it and keep it in place while you wiggle your way into the apporiate hole. And just tighten down and by then u will be able to just pull away and break off the tape.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:40 AM   #46
Molonlabemike
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Yeah it was a pretty crappy install, didn't really feel much after the install even with SS lines hopefully it will help once I am able to really test the car.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:45 AM   #47
fenderpicks
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Man, i went from my stock WRX calipers to full brembo calipers.
Then i put in the SS lines.
And about 8 months later i finally decided to do this mod.
I guess i just want to do all the supporting mod for my brakes. So i know that it is the best it can get type of feeling lol
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:17 AM   #48
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I'm thinking about getting one of these. Install looks like a pain. Maybe I'll go with better pads/lines/fluid first.

Can someone tell me what's the legality and classification of this brace for SCCA AutoX?
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:57 PM   #49
hakira
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IIRC its legal in ST and beyond.

If you're doing local events, most likely they won't even care that you have that. Its usually the bigger regional/national events where they will be thorough with the inspections.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:43 PM   #50
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Default Grimmspeed master cyl brace install -2011

I just did my 2011 STI and I agree that it is a PITA and really takes patience and small hands are helpful.

I appreciated everyones feedback, observations, and tips. First of all I absolutely agree that for the STI it is imperative that you remove the TMIC. I also used the tie-wrap technique to hold the forward hard brake line back towards the firewall to gain access to the small rear bolts. I tie-wrapped the forward hardline to the rear line and it did a really nice job of holding it out of the way. Also tie-wrapped the various hoses and brakets out of the way which made it significantly easier for a one person install.

I found that installing the upper front (long) bolt first and then installing the lower bolt really made it easier to install the 3 small rear bolts. In the cramped area I found that using thinner 1/4" drives, sockets and extensions made it alot easier to manuever in the tight spots. and yes using tape to hold the bolts into the sockets is a must do.

I found that the Grimmspeed directions to reverse the plastic clip that hold the fuel lines would not work on the 2011 STI because the lines/hardware hits the brace. I installed the plastic bracket in the original position but bent it back towards the fender to gain clearence. I also loosened the fuel line hose clamps (just enough to allow movement) allowing the lines/hardware to be re-aligned, thus removeing binding from being relocated. Once inplace I installed a tie-wrap abound the hoses in the bracket just to ensure no movement.

This install took me the better part of 3 hrs after the TMIC was removed. I was patient and took my time as aligning the brace, brackets, bolts, and bolt holes in the tiny constricted area is best described as tidieous/frustrating and with a significant number of scrapes, cuts and gashes. No one said it was easy, but be patient and it will all go together.

Grimmspeed really needs to show the more complicated 2011- 2012 STI install with guides and suggestions for how to approach the install. If I had not read the threads on this item and the tips for installing I would have been very frustrated with Grimmspeed's simplistic WRX video install.

Now that its in, I notice an improvement in brake pedal feel under moderate/heavy braking. Worth it? I think so! For the track/auto-x it is a great add, for the fast street driver or canyon carver I'd say yes, for casual drivers...I'd say probably not
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