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Old 01-23-2014, 05:55 AM   #326
WRXFanDave
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If you did not, try priming the pump... Unhook the hoses from the pump, poor a LITTLE fluid in and turn the pulley slowly then poor aLITTLE more in. It doesn't hold much. Then put the hoses back on. I went to an empty parking lot and did a bunch of loops pulling in with the wheel turned one way and backing out with the wheel turned the other way. I really didn't have an issue.

I'm assuming you put the vanes in with the copper edge out, which is described in the first posts of the thread. I also made sure the vanes were sliding before I bolted the halves together by turning the shaft.

Good luck.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:21 PM   #327
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I want everyone to know that I had foam in the reservoir squealing and howling coming from the pump, gurgling noise coming from the RP and hard steering at start up and difficulty keeping my car in a corner. I replaced the O ring on the low pressure hose aka suction hose aka the rubber hose on top of the pump with the exact O ring suggested in this thread. After replacing the O ring and bleeding the system by jacking up the car and steering lock to lock 4 times with the car off and another 6 times with the car running and a short drive finished off the bleed. I now have like new steering feeling and none of the noises mentioned above. Replacing this O ring should be your first step. PS I tried everything short of the rebuild prior to replacing that O ring. Thank you Cadi for the great thread and info.
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:28 PM   #328
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I finished my O Ring replacements yesterday, was very simple and thanks to this thread it made the job easy!

I was pooling a ton of ATF on the top of the P/S pump and it was dripping down the timing belt cover. I thought this was my cause for smoke.... but it was not..Now i'm off to battle my P/S High Pressure hose as it is leaking via a tiny hole and spraying a mist on the DP and causing smoke.. so off to another install thread

Regardless, Thanks for all the information and saving a ton on labor and parts. My pump is no longer leaking and everything is good on the Pump End of things!
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:18 PM   #329
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Sorry about the photos going out. This thread and another one of mine got very popular in the past few months. Plus I think photobucket lowered their bandwidth limit.

I'm looking into re hosting the photos on another service.
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:31 PM   #330
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Okay. I rehosted the images from the first three pages and edited all the links. Hopefully this won't happen again.
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Old 02-07-2014, 04:59 PM   #331
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Default Do you happen to have image of this seal?

Do you have a picture of this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by othon View Post
So I ordered the FEP Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-rings. Installed them and...Not so much!

These rings may have some great stats but are not adequate for the rebuild.

I have ordered the same ones as the OP and will be doing it again. Side note the rebuild including pressing out the bearing and seal and replacing them isn't that bad.

Also I ordered the shaft seal from Rocket Seals matched to the OEM seal fairly well and pressed in great and was a great seal around the prop shaft for what I can tell with it all disassembled...
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:26 PM   #332
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Where is everyone ordering their o-rings from?
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:57 PM   #333
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:41 PM   #334
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Great Thread!

My power-steering (PS) pump was whining something terrible and the PS output was intermittent at best so I decided to give the rebuild a shot. I replaced all the o-rings with the FEP encapsulated type (except for the sensor o-ring, I destroyed it trying to get it on so Buna N it was), threw in a new bearing for good measure and replaced all the stock clamps with with worm gear clamps. Bleeding the system took some time, but I eventually had all the bubbles worked out of the system and steering was shudder free from lock to lock.

Now for the interesting part, when I drove the car to a large empty parking lot to do some testing, all was great until I tried doing some tight circles holding the steering wheel at full lock and increasing speed. The PS would hold and then suddenly cut out completely leaving me fighting to hold onto the wheel. It's almost as if the G forces were causing the pump to starve it self. The reservoir would also develop tiny bubbles whenever this occurred meaning air was finding it's way back into the system. I couldn't look at it any further since night had fallen so I parked it.

I drove the car to work this morning without any problems (commute doesn't involve achieving high speeds in full lock) and once at work, decided to have a look at the pump. I noticed that a tiny bit of ATF fluid was beginning to pool in the small indentations on top of the pump where the halves meet. I was pretty confident that I had tightened everything down, and was very careful to properly seat the o-rings to avoid any pinching, but this ATF fluid definitely appears to be coming up through the halves vs leaking down from somewhere else. Looks like I'll be pulling it out again.

How likely is it that this seepage is also the cause of the PS loss during full lock at speed?

Also, I used the dash 021 o-ring which did look visibly smaller than the original so what signs should I be looking for to determine whether the dash 119 should be used?

Any input would be greatly appreciated and I'll be sure to report my findings.

Thanks again for the great thread.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:09 PM   #335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C4STI View Post
I tried doing some tight circles holding the steering wheel at full lock
Please don't do this. The OEM power steering system is not engineered for the abuse doing "donuts" while holding the powersteering system at full lock can dish out. If you want to insure your powersteering fails quickly just crank the wheel to full lock and then lean into it every opportunity you get. That squeal you hear is the power steering black magic escaping it's enchanted containment vessel.

That -021/119 oring is one of rings that separate the high pressure side from the low pressure side. When you overload the system by leaning into a full lock steering wheel some of that pressure might be slipping past the -021 ring. Try replacing it with the thicker -119.

I think your external fluid problem is unrelated to the -021 vs -119 ring size issue. Might be as simple as needing to tighten down the high pressure hose a bit more or even replace both (yes there's two) copper washers that fit on that banjo bolt holding the high pressure line to the pump. Also make sure you actually have copper washers in there. Yes, they matter.

Last edited by 68Cadillac; 03-10-2014 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:56 PM   #336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac
Please don't do this. The OEM power steering system is not engineered for the abuse doing "donuts" while holding the powersteering system at full lock can dish out.
Oh trust me, by no means was I doing doughnuts. I was more so trying to simulate hard cornering since I occasionally Autocross. I also know that holding the wheel at full lock for prolonged periods cooks the fluid so I should have been more clear. I guess the best way to describe what I was doing would be figure eights going from a hard left, to a hard right quickly. Also, I should mention that the pump has not whined since the rebuild, even during the loss of assist, it remained quiet.

As far as the copper washers go, I replaced the double crush washer with a new one from Subaru so I'm good on that front. I think my problem is going to lie within the two o-rings (large and small) immediately apparent after separating the halves, or the one that separates the low pressure side from the high. Thanks again.
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:09 PM   #337
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I've read through a good part of the first half of this thread and as a result have ordered all of the necessary O-rings and bearing parts. Thanks 68Cadillac and everyone A TON for contributing. I feel as this should be pretty straightforward. I do have a remaining question however, what tools are needed to complete the entire job?

I'll be doing the job in Denver with a friends garage before making a 2,700 mile road trip back to CA, and will need to pick up whatever he doesn't have ahead of time. If anyone knows or feels like chiming in it would be MUCH appreciated.
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:32 AM   #338
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Check this post I posted. Mostly basic tools. You'll need a pivoting socket or adapter for the back bracket bolt. And a bench vise to get enough leverage on some of the fittings assuming you don't have air tools. Oh and make sure you have a socket the size of the pulley nut. To get this bolt off, stick a medium sized socket extension through a pulley hole to keep it from spinning while cranking on the pulley nut.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=186

Last edited by WRXFanDave; 03-12-2014 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:46 AM   #339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXFanDave View Post
Check this post I posted. Mostly basic tools. You'll need a pivoting socket or adapter for the back bracket bolt. And a bench vise to get enough leverage on some of the fittings assuming you don't have air tools. Oh and make sure you have a socket the size of the pulley nut. To get this bolt off, stick a medium sized socket extension through a pulley hole to keep it from spinning while cranking on the pulley nut.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=186
Thanks a ton, this is exactly the information I needed!
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Old 03-21-2014, 03:51 AM   #340
C4STI
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Update-

It turns out my pump did not like the FEP-Encapsulated o-rings. The two o-rings immediately apparent after separating the halves were not wide enough on my pump to create a good seal so fluid would begin seeping through the halves when I started the car (even after torquing the 4 bolts down to 25 foot-pounds). As you can see in the image, they barely protrude out of the recess.



This was my third time pulling the pump so I decided that I would go with Metric Buna-N's throughout as my last ditch effort and busted out my digital caliper to determine the best sizes since I didn't want to take any more chances. I figured my pump could be different considering the amount of folks who've had success using the FEP. I also felt that I may as well give the Buna-N a shot since they're likely what came stock and they held up for 100K + miles.

Here is what I ordered from McMaster-Carr based on my measurements (pretty much spot on to the measurements taken by everyone else except I went with the metric Buna-N):

1 9262K711 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2 mm Width, 65 mm ID, Packs of 25 (large half seal)

2 9262K177 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2 mm Width, 13 mm ID, Packs of 100 (small half seal)

3 9262K401 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 1.8 mm Width, 12.5 mm ID, Packs of 100 (inlet, high pressure standoff & bolt w/spring)

4 9262K452 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2.5 mm Width, 50 mm ID, Packs of 50 (large internal)

5 9262K537 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2.5 mm Width, 24 mm ID, Packs of 50 (small internal)

6 9262K182 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2 mm Width, 17 mm ID, Packs of 100 (hex bolt)

7 9262K446 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2 mm Width, 11 mm ID, Packs of 50 (sensor)

As you can see, they don't sell these individually so I have enough to rebuild my pump many times over. I'm sure you can source them in smaller quantities elsewhere.

All the o-rings went in without any issues. The larger 65mm o-ring may appear too large at first, but it will fit nicely into the recess if you help it along. Also, when replacing the smaller internal o-ring (24mm ID), I found it worked best to place it in it's recess on the center of the disk which also holds the larger 50mm ID o-ring (see image). Then holding the pump with the shaft facing down, slide the entire disk over the shaft and push it all the way up till the larger o-ring contacts the pump. This way there's no chance for the o-ring to come out of it's recess and potentially get pinched later.



The following image clearly shows the difference between the different o-rings I tried on the smaller internal portion of the pump. I went with the Buna-N, but the FEP -119 looks like it would have worked.



The pump is now back on the car, leak free and working like new. It won't stutter no matter how hard I try. The ultimate test will be the autocross course, but that won't be anytime soon. Thanks again to all who contributed the great information.

Last edited by C4STI; 03-21-2014 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:19 AM   #341
Bryan82
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Default Used Buna-N still working flawlessly..

Just wanted to say that I did this repair close to a year ago and I chose to go with the OEM buna-N o-rings. The pump has been leak free and running perfect after my first attempt (with the full help of this thread of course). I said I would update back then, but never got around to it. So there it is...hope it helps someone that is on the fence.
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:23 AM   #342
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Default 2003 forester pump rebuild

New member posting...

So- I have been at this for a while. I got HNBR70 Green O rings.

This thread has been helpful. I have to point out that some Subarus years have 3 different pump manufacturers so they may all be slightly different. The best bet is to copy the list, then double check your pump with micrometer and then find the right rings. I used theoringstore.com There could be extra rings, as in my case, that are not on the list in the first post.

I didn't double check and bought all the ones form a list and now have to order more so now 10.00 shipping for rings that cost half as much. I bought two sets. Oh well. The alternative is to buy a re-manufactured one form parts geek which is about 60 for my year model after the core of 55. So you fork out 125 after shipping at first. I fortunately have two pumps I put a used on in from a junk yard that I ended up getting a refund for because they said it was tested and didn't work. (fleabay) Maybe parts geek will take two cores and I'll come out even cheaper on the rebuilt pump from them.

I'm waiting til I hear back form partsgeek before I order more o rings.

I am hoping that only the back of the pump needs the rings to stop the leak. when the car is cold or sometimes in a parking lot- I hear the belt squeak and there is a loss of power. I'm sure it is the pump and not the rack. The steering feels like it wants to work but is jerky feeling. Especially at the extreme right and left like pulling in and out of a parking space. Lots of black gunk all over so I think the back half is where the problem is.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:20 PM   #343
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Very nice thread! Over a year ago, I was having PS whine and Shaking in the wheel, almost bought a new pump, but decided to replace the top o-ring and all problems went away! Still haven't had a problem since. $0.50 o-ring saved me ~$400
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:12 PM   #344
shemoves
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Just want to confirm...do all of these use the same PS pump?

SAAB 9-2X AERO (2005, 2006)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX (2004, 2005, 2006, 2007)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX LIMITED (2006, 2007)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX STI (2004, 2005, 2006)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX STI LIMITED 2007
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX TR (2006, 2007)
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Old 04-01-2014, 03:07 AM   #345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shemoves View Post
Just want to confirm...do all of these use the same PS pump?

SAAB 9-2X AERO (2005, 2006)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX (2004, 2005, 2006, 2007)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX LIMITED (2006, 2007)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX STI (2004, 2005, 2006)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX STI LIMITED 2007
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX TR (2006, 2007)
Pretty sure they do, the saab 9-2x pump is the same as a 05 wrx. Also the steering rack in the saab 9-2x is exactly the same as the rack in the 06-07 wrx so the pump shouldn't have changed for the 2.5l.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:48 PM   #346
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I'm about to try re-built mine but on 2004 Forester XT any idea if those o-rings you guys used will also fit Forester PS pump? Really don't want to get reman. from AutoZone since they are not a quality parts. Saw so many of those bad right out of the box :-(
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:17 AM   #347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgX_CZ View Post
I'm about to try re-built mine but on 2004 Forester XT any idea if those o-rings you guys used will also fit Forester PS pump? Really don't want to get reman. from AutoZone since they are not a quality parts. Saw so many of those bad right out of the box :-(
Can you take some pictures of the front and back of the pump? Or compare to the pictures in the early posts.
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:02 AM   #348
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I will try, I know parts numbers are different but that doesn’t mean the body is different. I will try figure out if they are different. Pump is not leaking badly but 160k and I start seeing some wet spots on my timing cover.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:23 PM   #349
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I just rebuilt mine for the second time after not having luck with the fep rings on my first try. I used the metric buna n's from mcmaster carr and have had success for a week now. This was on a 2004 2.0t wagon. No shaking, leaks, or abnormalities. Cost me about $65 bucks to get all of the seals needed due to all of them only coming in 25/50/100 piece packs. Well I only used 1 from each pack and still have a bunch left.

If anyone is looking to do this rebuild I'd be happy to send out the tons of seals I have left to save people spending more money on the larger quantity packs from mccmaster.

I'll send 2 each of the 7 rings needed in return for 6 bucks to my paypal to cover my time and shipping costs.

68cadillac, if you want to put this in the first post it may also help save people money
. All in all, super happy I attempted the rebuild, saved over 700 bucks!!!
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