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Old 03-05-2012, 03:42 PM   #126
Mach V Matt
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^^^ that only applies to the 2002 WRX power steering pump. The 03+ have a different pump.

Matt
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:30 PM   #127
68Cadillac
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Originally Posted by SubieMonte View Post
I'm a shade tree mechanic and am wondering if this is something I should attempt. On a scale of wrenches, 5 = master mechanic and 1 = shade tree, how would you rate this rebuild?
On that scale I'd rate it a 2. The hardest part of the whole rebuild is getting the pump off, and putting it back on the car. Blowing apart the pump and replacing every oring ,seal, bearing and then reassembly is not as hard as just getting it on and off the car.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:42 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieMonte
So how long of a job is the rebuild?
I could do it in 90 minutes if I didn't **** around. But I always do. I always find something to clean or lighten or **** with. For a first timer I'd schedule 4 hours. Just imagine what it was like for me when I cracked that bastard open for the first time without any photos, instructions, parts list, or even knowledge of how a PS pump worked. If I'd have screwed it up I wouldn't have had even a core to exchange.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieMonte
Is there any difference between the years 02-07? I can't believe there would be.
I pulled the following from RockAuto's webapp way back when:
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Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
So if you own one of the following this post might be for you:

SAAB 9-2X AERO (2005, 2006)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX (2004, 2005, 2006, 2007) <-----me
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX LIMITED (2006, 2007)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX STI (2004, 2005, 2006)
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX STI LIMITED 2007
SUBARU IMPREZA WRX TR (2006, 2007)
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:38 AM   #129
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thanks, nice thread by the way
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:36 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
If you went with the Double-Wack FEP Encapsulated O-rings and the good bearing. The rebuild would be $46.18.
I'm going to take this route but have a question are the Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring the same as the ones you mentioned
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Old 03-07-2012, 02:11 PM   #131
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No.



Additionally the Fluoroelastomer is only rated "Good" for resistance to hydraulic fluid while FEP rates "Excellent".

FEP is the cheapest of the "Excellent" rated materials, last time I looked. Could be wrong.

If you just want "Good" go with Buna-N and save a buck. No shame there. It's what comes OEM.
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:29 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
No.


Additionally the Fluoroelastomer is only rated "Good" for resistance to hydraulic fluid while FEP rates "Excellent".
FEP is the cheapest of the "Excellent" rated materials, last time I looked. Could be wrong.

If you just want "Good" go with Buna-N and save a buck. No shame there. It's what comes OEM.
Thanks I wanted to buy the best when I go to the mcmaster site the viton ones cost more than the silicone ones but if the silicone ones are better then I'll go with those

this is the info they have on their site rigth now


Compressible FEP-Encapsulated O-Rings

A pliable FEP exterior combined with a resilient rubber core gives these O-rings excellent compressibility. Perfect for sealing corrosifluids, the FEP encapsulation also makes them virtually invulnerable to most solvents and chemicals while maintaining the corrosion resistance and slippery surface of PTFE. FEP encapsulation meets ASTM D2116 and LP389A and is FDA compliant.

Silicone—Temperature range is -75° to +400° F. Durometer hardness is A70. O-rings are clear with a red-orange inner ring.

Viton® Fluoroelastomer—Offers even greater chemical resistance than silicone. Temperature range is -15° to +400° F. Durometer hardness is A75. O-rings are clear with a black inner ring.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:43 PM   #133
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ok quick question... the pump doesnt leak or anything.. but If the pump was damaged due to putting brake fluid in there... would buying these o-rings fix the problem?
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:17 PM   #134
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ok quick question... the pump doesnt leak or anything.. but If the pump was damaged due to putting brake fluid in there... would buying these o-rings fix the problem?
you're probably going to want to replace the pump and all the rubber lines, it may have destroyed the seals in your rack and pinion too.. At least, I know if you put ATF in a brake system it destroys everything rubber. For brake fluid in something that takes ATF, I would assume you'd get the same result of it expanding everything rubber, but I don't know for sure.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:10 PM   #135
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cant seem to find the shaft seal..... which website would it be in? i tried carquest and nothing..
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:38 AM   #136
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Just go to carquest and order the part. I had no issues getting it.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:38 PM   #137
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ok cool thanks nut
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:25 PM   #138
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Just got the seal.. they had it in stock.. impressed. just waiting for my o rings to come in.. cant wait.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:24 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-REX View Post
Question for all the guys who did this rebuild -

Is anyone's power steering extremely stiff at low RPMs?

My pump is great any other time. No leaks whatsoever after the rebuild. But for some reason at low RPMs it's almost like there's no power steering at all. You got to really muscle it to get in a parking spot. Can't say it happens EVERY time but enough to where I notice it a lot.

I can't imagine what the problem is. It makes no engineering sense to me, except if the pump was underdriven. But it never happened before the rebuild on the OEM build, even when it was leaking.
Reviving my question. Got a PM from someone who's having the same problem. Would the internal leak 68Caddy is talking about cause something like this? Bad rack? Still no leaks here.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:12 AM   #140
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I got the Same problem. But now have no power steering. Sounds like need to rebuild & hope thats the only problem.
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:25 PM   #141
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I feel like an a$$hole! I cant even get the pump off!!!

Do I have to remove the pulley first? I already removed the two blts behind the pulley itself but cant get it to budge... WTH am i doing wrong?
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:54 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
When I started this thread I only got into rebuilding my pump because it was leaking externally. And only replaced those o-rings that were leaking. 11 months later I'm happy to report I haven't had an external leak.

Now internally? In the past 4 weeks I've noticed a shuddering loss of power in the PS Steering system. It doesn't just stop. It pulses. Like when you get air in the system. But there's no air in the system. I looked for the telltale sign of foamy PS/ATF in the tank. Nothing. And the "air in the line" whine is not there. I diagnose it as the internal o-rings finally going bad, and high pressure fluid is slipping past the seals to the low pressure side.

So 11 months later I get to do this again.


Purchased all my parts from McMaster-Carr again. Even ordered the FEP-encapsulated ones again. They're the cheapest ones rated "Excellent" for use in hydraulic fluid and are good up to 400 degrees F. Buna-N are only rated "Good" and are good only to 212 degrees F.


Purchased a high precision bearing from there also.


Here's what the FEP rings look like after 11 months of use. Really. This is a picture of the used rings that have been in there for 11 months.


New bearing pressed on.


New ring. This is the -021


Here's the new and old -136


The old -136 started life round and soft. Now it's flat and brittle.


Reassembled and working. Just need to get all the air out.
bumped for an update
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Old 03-25-2012, 02:53 AM   #143
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Bump. To rebuild or buy remanned. That is the question.
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:16 PM   #144
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bumped for an update
Pumps fine. Air's all gone. No leaks. Steering feels OEM. Red pullies still ricey.
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:17 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by SubieMonte View Post
Bump. To rebuild or buy remanned. That is the question.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
So if you went with the cheap Buna-N O rings and inexpensive bearing the rebuild would run < $15.
If you went with the Double-Wack FEP Encapsulated O-rings and the good bearing. The rebuild would be $46.18.
If you bought a rebuilt one from Rockauto.com = $134. I included the core charge of $34. Plus they're using the cheap Buna-N O rings and a cheap bearing.
Subaru of America $480.44 (can be had on internet for $427.11)
That helpful?
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:22 PM   #146
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Originally Posted by wrkXwagon88 View Post
I feel like an a$$hole! I cant even get the pump off!!!

Do I have to remove the pulley first? I already removed the two blts behind the pulley itself but cant get it to budge... WTH am i doing wrong?
You need to remove the PS bracket and the PS pump at the same time from teh motor. It is not possible to get the PS pump off the car without first taking the PS Pump bracket off the motor. There is a long bolt (5 inches?) holding the PS pump to the bracket that can only be accessed from the back side. And the only way to get at it is to take it off the motor.
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:39 AM   #147
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Is it necessary to remove the bearing and replace the oil seal? I only have leaking, no shuddering.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:57 AM   #148
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Thanks for your response. In the end, I went with Dash 021 even though I bought the closest matching ring from the shop. As close as it gets, the closest matching ring I bought wouldn't fit nicely so I thought I would just go with Dash 021 ring.

I have not installed the power steering pump yet (I bought it used as spare) and I will update if I have any further findings.

Thank you once again.
I finally had my mechanic to install the pump today. The car drove fine with no shuddering and any whining. But just when I reached home and made more turns to park, I could feel my steering shudder and heard whining.

Thinking something must be wrong, I popped the hood and look what I found:


This picture was taken with me standing right in front of my car, bending down to get a shot of the leakage. It's leaking at the indentation area.

I previously mentioned that Dash-021 ring I got was slightly thinner than the original ring:

Orig. ring LEFT, new ring RIGHT. Not sure whether it's related to the leakage that I am facing now though.

Any thoughts what went wrong? O-rings, oil seal? I am very tempted to pay my mechanic to rebuild it The O-rings I bought are Viton rings btw.
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:35 AM   #149
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Problem resolved! Turned out to be...



O-ring was not properly seated before reassembly causing part of the O-ring to get sliced off! Lesson learnt!
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:50 AM   #150
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Originally Posted by maxifire
Problem resolved! Turned out to be...

O-ring was not properly seated before reassembly causing part of the O-ring to get sliced off! Lesson learnt!
Hey maxifire.

I'm sourcing the parts to do the rebuild. Do you have any advice on reinstalling the orings so I don't pinch them? Thanks!
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