Crankshaft position sensor after 99k miles... picture - Page 2

track43788 · 03-21-2011, 10:06 AM

at least it was a quick fix!

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quazimoto · 03-21-2011, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mneste8718

where is the crank position sensor located?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...8&postcount=11

illmatic · 04-18-2011, 03:46 PM

I believe mine just died at ~160K. The car threw a P0336 while merging on the freeway.

txl146 · 04-18-2011, 10:29 PM

Did you take it apart and visually inspect it? You might be able to just clean it off and reuse it.

ojala · 04-18-2011, 11:26 PM

First try cleaning it or check your battery. It is much more common to have a dirty sensor or a bum battery than to have a bad CPS.

rkramer · 04-19-2011, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick-l

The sensor is just a magnet and a coil of wire right?

More or less, there are other parts also. But yes, there is a magnet.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor

rick-l · 04-19-2011, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkramer

More or less, there are other parts also. But yes, there is a magnet.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor

A hall effect sensor would require 3 wires Power,Ground and Signal. The wiring diagram only shows two.

I think these are typically variable reluctance sensors.

A quick search: http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/scope/vary_reluct/

Note the magnet to attract ferrous materials. Shavings just on the end should not afffect operation much however, just if it bridged g=from the tip to the side.

NitroTrike · 04-19-2011, 10:15 AM

I once had a bucking / trailer-hitching issue at a specific engine speed, and once I cleaned the funky stuff off both the crank and cam position sensors, it went away. I'm guessing it was enough build-up to cause a slight "out of phase" condition, but not enough to throw a CEL.

kellygnsd · 04-19-2011, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick-l

A hall effect sensor would require 3 wires Power,Ground and Signal. The wiring diagram only shows two.

I think these are typically variable reluctance sensors.

A quick search: http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/scope/vary_reluct/

Note the magnet to attract ferrous materials. Shavings just on the end should not afffect operation much however, just if it bridged g=from the tip to the side.

Actually any metal buildup on the end of the sensor can diminish the amplitude of the signal and with the stock ECU the threshold is preset. In short, any build up of ferrous material on a magnetic type sensor can effect its performance.

rick-l · 04-19-2011, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kellygnsd

Actually any metal buildup on the end of the sensor can diminish the amplitude of the signal and with the stock ECU the threshold is preset. In short, any build up of ferrous material on a magnetic type sensor can effect its performance.

Yup you're right. Looking at a sensor again magnet, coil of wire around a iron rod and a iron piece to complete the magnetic path around the magnet except for a gap that gets filled by a gear tooth. Any ferrous material across the gap would diminish the flux change seen by the coil. Don't know what I was thinking.

illmatic · 04-23-2011, 05:41 PM

I just replaced mine with a Borg Warner sensor from Pepboys for $24.99(CSS564 - Made in Japan) OEM Part number is 22055AA052 . There is enough space to remove the sensor with out completely removing the alternator.

The car has been sitting since last Thursday 4/14(from a P0336 CEL), so I'm charging the battery right now. First attempt the car did not start. What do you think caused the damage to the sensor, jumped timing belt, sprocket tooth? I think I'm going to pull the timing covers to inspect for more damage as soon as I have new oem parts.

FYI, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced at ~102K miles with the PCI kit on ebay.

Left OEM sensor at 160K. Right is the new BWD Sensor.

NitroTrike · 04-24-2011, 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by illmatic

I just replaced mine with a Borg Warner sensor from Pepboys for $24.99(CSS564 - Made in Japan) OEM Part number is 22055AA052 . There is enough space to remove the sensor with out completely removing the alternator.

The car has been sitting since last Thursday 4/14(from a P0336 CEL), so I'm charging the battery right now. First attempt the car did not start. What do you think caused the damage to the sensor, jumped timing belt, sprocket tooth? I think I'm going to pull the timing covers to inspect for more damage as soon as I have new oem parts.

FYI, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced at ~102K miles with the PCI kit on ebay.

Left OEM sensor at 160K. Right is the new BWD Sensor.

I would definitely check the cam belt / timing before even trying to crank it again. Something hit it. It almost looks like the belt hit it... did someone leave the crank belt guide off???

jaxscuby · 04-24-2011, 08:27 AM

please spray clean your motors..
so we don't have to look at grime covered motors.

Gutless · 05-11-2011, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stikboy9

I meant putting up resistance to removal. I can spin it around, but I can't pull it out.

stikboy, I have the same prob right now. Did u get it out eventually? How?

rick-l · 05-11-2011, 06:03 PM

Why is the end of it deformed like that? That is probably why it won't come out.

Jirv311 · 05-12-2011, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gutless

stikboy, I have the same prob right now. Did u get it out eventually? How?

Did you take out the bolt?

Jirv311 · 05-12-2011, 06:00 PM

+14 to just try cleaning it first. Mine looked exactly like the OP's when I tore apart my motor and it just cleaned right off.

Gutless · 05-16-2011, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jirv311

Did you take out the bolt?

yup...i can spin it but it wont pop out. 'pb blasted, too....

stikboy9 · 05-17-2011, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gutless

stikboy, I have the same prob right now. Did u get it out eventually? How?

Nope. I had a limited amount of time to do a crap ton of stuff and haven't had a chance to mess with it since. I'll be revisiting it soon though. I'll post an update when I do.

ezoq · 05-30-2011, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gutless

yup...i can spin it but it wont pop out. 'pb blasted, too....

Gutless, any luck on this ? I'm having the same problem on my 2.5...

txl146 · 07-29-2011, 06:38 PM

Has anyone replaced cam shaft sensor? how did it look?

bushman95 · 07-29-2011, 11:00 PM

I had the same problem with mine. 02 with 160k. Just spin in place but one come out.

bushman95 · 08-03-2011, 12:56 PM

I got mine out but it was difficult. I took off the alternator and pulled at it with pliers. Eventually I felt a pop and I had a pile of wires on the end of my pliers. The end of the sensor ripped out of the casing. So I took a fine screwdriver and folded in the edges of the casing slowly. Eventually I worked the whole casing down enough where it was loose and I pulled it out with pliers. Cleaned up the hole, slid the new sensor in and was on my way. Stressful but noting too complicated to get out.

Dhendershot · 09-27-2011, 06:46 PM

i had the same problem with my camshaft postion sensor and my crankshaft position sensor. camshaft sensor was easy to remove, but crankshaft sensor i had to drill out of the hole. i made the hole a little wider on accident. i put in new crankshaft sensor and now the car doesn't even run. just turns over and misfires like crazy. can even get it to a garage now...

kellygnsd · 09-28-2011, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dhendershot

i had the same problem with my camshaft postion sensor and my crankshaft position sensor. camshaft sensor was easy to remove, but crankshaft sensor i had to drill out of the hole. i made the hole a little wider on accident. i put in new crankshaft sensor and now the car doesn't even run. just turns over and misfires like crazy. can even get it to a garage now...

Make sure you didn't damage the trigger wheel when you drilled out the sensor.

04-23-2011, 05:41 PM	#36
illmatic Scooby Specialist Member#: 3536 Join Date: Jan 2001 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: SD, OC Vehicle: 2013 SWP BRZ Limited 2002/2003 AW/PSM WRX	I just replaced mine with a Borg Warner sensor from Pepboys for $24.99(CSS564 - Made in Japan) OEM Part number is 22055AA052 . There is enough space to remove the sensor with out completely removing the alternator. The car has been sitting since last Thursday 4/14(from a P0336 CEL), so I'm charging the battery right now. First attempt the car did not start. What do you think caused the damage to the sensor, jumped timing belt, sprocket tooth? I think I'm going to pull the timing covers to inspect for more damage as soon as I have new oem parts. FYI, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced at ~102K miles with the PCI kit on ebay. Left OEM sensor at 160K. Right is the new BWD Sensor. Last edited by illmatic; 04-23-2011 at 05:49 PM.

09-27-2011, 06:46 PM	#49
Dhendershot Scooby Newbie Member#: 239405 Join Date: Feb 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Diamondale, MI Vehicle: 1999 Impreza L Black	Crankshaft position sensor problems i had the same problem with my camshaft postion sensor and my crankshaft position sensor. camshaft sensor was easy to remove, but crankshaft sensor i had to drill out of the hole. i made the hole a little wider on accident. i put in new crankshaft sensor and now the car doesn't even run. just turns over and misfires like crazy. can even get it to a garage now...

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03-21-2011, 10:06 AM	#26
track43788 Scooby Newbie Member#: 164294 Join Date: Nov 2007	at least it was a quick fix! * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

04-18-2011, 03:46 PM	#28
illmatic Scooby Specialist Member#: 3536 Join Date: Jan 2001 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: SD, OC Vehicle: 2013 SWP BRZ Limited 2002/2003 AW/PSM WRX	I believe mine just died at ~160K. The car threw a P0336 while merging on the freeway.

04-18-2011, 10:29 PM	#29
txl146 Scooby Guru Member#: 32459 Join Date: Feb 2003 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 02 WRX VF34 Junior Tuned 301whp	Did you take it apart and visually inspect it? You might be able to just clean it off and reuse it.

04-18-2011, 11:26 PM	#30
ojala Scooby Newbie Member#: 255441 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: TXIC Location: FW Vehicle: 2005 Saab	First try cleaning it or check your battery. It is much more common to have a dirty sensor or a bum battery than to have a bad CPS.

04-19-2011, 10:15 AM	#33
NitroTrike Scooby Specialist Member#: 62408 Join Date: May 2004 Chapter/Region: South East Location: GWR, Florida Vehicle: 2002 wrx w/ STi guts 174k miles on Mobil 1	I once had a bucking / trailer-hitching issue at a specific engine speed, and once I cleaned the funky stuff off both the crank and cam position sensors, it went away. I'm guessing it was enough build-up to cause a slight "out of phase" condition, but not enough to throw a CEL.

04-24-2011, 08:27 AM	#38
jaxscuby n00b Moderator Moderator Member#: 10613 Join Date: Sep 2001 Chapter/Region: South East Location: F L O R I D A Vehicle: 2002 USDM WRX WRB	please spray clean your motors.. so we don't have to look at grime covered motors.

05-11-2011, 06:03 PM	#40
rick-l Scooby Specialist Member#: 33868 Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Chesterfield, MO Vehicle: 2003 wrx srp	Why is the end of it deformed like that? That is probably why it won't come out.

05-12-2011, 06:00 PM	#42
Jirv311 Scooby Newbie Member#: 273528 Join Date: Feb 2011 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Northern CO Vehicle: 2002 Impreza WRX Silver	+14 to just try cleaning it first. Mine looked exactly like the OP's when I tore apart my motor and it just cleaned right off.

07-29-2011, 06:38 PM	#46
txl146 Scooby Guru Member#: 32459 Join Date: Feb 2003 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 02 WRX VF34 Junior Tuned 301whp	Has anyone replaced cam shaft sensor? how did it look?

07-29-2011, 11:00 PM	#47
bushman95 Scooby Newbie Member#: 248738 Join Date: Jun 2010 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: dc Vehicle: 2004 wrx red	I had the same problem with mine. 02 with 160k. Just spin in place but one come out.

08-03-2011, 12:56 PM	#48
bushman95 Scooby Newbie Member#: 248738 Join Date: Jun 2010 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: dc Vehicle: 2004 wrx red	I got mine out but it was difficult. I took off the alternator and pulled at it with pliers. Eventually I felt a pop and I had a pile of wires on the end of my pliers. The end of the sensor ripped out of the casing. So I took a fine screwdriver and folded in the edges of the casing slowly. Eventually I worked the whole casing down enough where it was loose and I pulled it out with pliers. Cleaned up the hole, slid the new sensor in and was on my way. Stressful but noting too complicated to get out.