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Old 03-21-2011, 10:06 AM   #26
track43788
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at least it was a quick fix!
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mneste8718 View Post
where is the crank position sensor located?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...8&postcount=11
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:46 PM   #28
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I believe mine just died at ~160K. The car threw a P0336 while merging on the freeway.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:29 PM   #29
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Did you take it apart and visually inspect it? You might be able to just clean it off and reuse it.
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:26 PM   #30
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First try cleaning it or check your battery. It is much more common to have a dirty sensor or a bum battery than to have a bad CPS.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:20 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
The sensor is just a magnet and a coil of wire right?

More or less, there are other parts also. But yes, there is a magnet.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:11 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkramer View Post
More or less, there are other parts also. But yes, there is a magnet.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor
A hall effect sensor would require 3 wires Power,Ground and Signal. The wiring diagram only shows two.

I think these are typically variable reluctance sensors.

A quick search: http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/scope/vary_reluct/

Note the magnet to attract ferrous materials. Shavings just on the end should not afffect operation much however, just if it bridged g=from the tip to the side.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:15 AM   #33
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I once had a bucking / trailer-hitching issue at a specific engine speed, and once I cleaned the funky stuff off both the crank and cam position sensors, it went away. I'm guessing it was enough build-up to cause a slight "out of phase" condition, but not enough to throw a CEL.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:10 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
A hall effect sensor would require 3 wires Power,Ground and Signal. The wiring diagram only shows two.

I think these are typically variable reluctance sensors.

A quick search: http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/scope/vary_reluct/

Note the magnet to attract ferrous materials. Shavings just on the end should not afffect operation much however, just if it bridged g=from the tip to the side.
Actually any metal buildup on the end of the sensor can diminish the amplitude of the signal and with the stock ECU the threshold is preset. In short, any build up of ferrous material on a magnetic type sensor can effect its performance.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:49 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
Actually any metal buildup on the end of the sensor can diminish the amplitude of the signal and with the stock ECU the threshold is preset. In short, any build up of ferrous material on a magnetic type sensor can effect its performance.
Yup you're right. Looking at a sensor again magnet, coil of wire around a iron rod and a iron piece to complete the magnetic path around the magnet except for a gap that gets filled by a gear tooth. Any ferrous material across the gap would diminish the flux change seen by the coil. Don't know what I was thinking.
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:41 PM   #36
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I just replaced mine with a Borg Warner sensor from Pepboys for $24.99(CSS564 - Made in Japan) OEM Part number is 22055AA052 . There is enough space to remove the sensor with out completely removing the alternator.

The car has been sitting since last Thursday 4/14(from a P0336 CEL), so I'm charging the battery right now. First attempt the car did not start. What do you think caused the damage to the sensor, jumped timing belt, sprocket tooth? I think I'm going to pull the timing covers to inspect for more damage as soon as I have new oem parts.

FYI, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced at ~102K miles with the PCI kit on ebay.

Left OEM sensor at 160K. Right is the new BWD Sensor.



Last edited by illmatic; 04-23-2011 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:35 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illmatic View Post
I just replaced mine with a Borg Warner sensor from Pepboys for $24.99(CSS564 - Made in Japan) OEM Part number is 22055AA052 . There is enough space to remove the sensor with out completely removing the alternator.

The car has been sitting since last Thursday 4/14(from a P0336 CEL), so I'm charging the battery right now. First attempt the car did not start. What do you think caused the damage to the sensor, jumped timing belt, sprocket tooth? I think I'm going to pull the timing covers to inspect for more damage as soon as I have new oem parts.

FYI, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced at ~102K miles with the PCI kit on ebay.

Left OEM sensor at 160K. Right is the new BWD Sensor.


I would definitely check the cam belt / timing before even trying to crank it again. Something hit it. It almost looks like the belt hit it... did someone leave the crank belt guide off???
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:27 AM   #38
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please spray clean your motors..
so we don't have to look at grime covered motors.
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:19 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stikboy9 View Post
I meant putting up resistance to removal. I can spin it around, but I can't pull it out.

stikboy, I have the same prob right now. Did u get it out eventually? How?
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Old 05-11-2011, 06:03 PM   #40
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Why is the end of it deformed like that? That is probably why it won't come out.
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:57 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gutless View Post
stikboy, I have the same prob right now. Did u get it out eventually? How?
Did you take out the bolt?
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Old 05-12-2011, 06:00 PM   #42
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+14 to just try cleaning it first. Mine looked exactly like the OP's when I tore apart my motor and it just cleaned right off.
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:16 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Jirv311 View Post
Did you take out the bolt?
yup...i can spin it but it wont pop out. 'pb blasted, too....
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:58 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gutless

stikboy, I have the same prob right now. Did u get it out eventually? How?
Nope. I had a limited amount of time to do a crap ton of stuff and haven't had a chance to mess with it since. I'll be revisiting it soon though. I'll post an update when I do.
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Old 05-30-2011, 05:59 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gutless View Post
yup...i can spin it but it wont pop out. 'pb blasted, too....
Gutless, any luck on this ? I'm having the same problem on my 2.5...
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Old 07-29-2011, 06:38 PM   #46
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Has anyone replaced cam shaft sensor? how did it look?
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:00 PM   #47
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I had the same problem with mine. 02 with 160k. Just spin in place but one come out.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:56 PM   #48
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I got mine out but it was difficult. I took off the alternator and pulled at it with pliers. Eventually I felt a pop and I had a pile of wires on the end of my pliers. The end of the sensor ripped out of the casing. So I took a fine screwdriver and folded in the edges of the casing slowly. Eventually I worked the whole casing down enough where it was loose and I pulled it out with pliers. Cleaned up the hole, slid the new sensor in and was on my way. Stressful but noting too complicated to get out.
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:46 PM   #49
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Default Crankshaft position sensor problems

i had the same problem with my camshaft postion sensor and my crankshaft position sensor. camshaft sensor was easy to remove, but crankshaft sensor i had to drill out of the hole. i made the hole a little wider on accident. i put in new crankshaft sensor and now the car doesn't even run. just turns over and misfires like crazy. can even get it to a garage now...
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:06 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dhendershot View Post
i had the same problem with my camshaft postion sensor and my crankshaft position sensor. camshaft sensor was easy to remove, but crankshaft sensor i had to drill out of the hole. i made the hole a little wider on accident. i put in new crankshaft sensor and now the car doesn't even run. just turns over and misfires like crazy. can even get it to a garage now...
Make sure you didn't damage the trigger wheel when you drilled out the sensor.
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