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Old 06-15-2012, 07:27 PM   #12676
gfxguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfxguy View Post
Had my car for 3 1/2 days, and the check engine light just came on. It's solid, not blinking, and the service rep told me it was fine to keep driving it until Tuesday when I'll bring it in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfxguy View Post
I took it to oreilly to get it scanned and got code P000A. According to this site http://www.dtcdecode.com/P000A :


Code: P000A
Category: Powertrain
Definition: A Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 1
Update on this: I didn't take the car in like I mentioned above because the light turned off and stayed off (called the dealership and they told me not to bring it in). However, it's come back on twice since then; the first time it turned off after a couple of days, and the second time was last night, at which point I called the dealer and made an appointment for this morning.

They confirmed the P000A code, said they checked the car and couldn't find anything wrong. They said the reset the computer to let it relearn (said it was the recommended procedure according to the service manual) and to bring it back if it happens again.

Hoping it doesn't come back but I'm not feeling too confident.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:44 PM   #12677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepNMnky
Anyone install (or remove) your OEM cross bars? Not the aero ones for Sport models, just the plain cross bars. The screws are in so tight I can't get them to budge. They're star shaped (torx) screws & the part came with a screw driver. Had a few others try as well. I'm going to try with a drill bit attachment tomorrow but I don't want to risk stripping them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeper
if they were installed with locktite you can heat the head of a screw with a butane torch, a hair drier, a flame thrower, etc and they will back right out.

I doubt they are seized up with corrosion, but it would not surprise me if they were installed with locktite.
Between getting the torx head drill bit & heating it... it worked!!! Thanks Zeeper. I tried just the drill & still no luck. The heat was the trick.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:48 PM   #12678
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Now sell me the cross bars
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:34 AM   #12679
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i finally put my Osram H9 bulbs in today to replace the factory H11's. much much brighter, I would say equal in brightness to high beams. I wish the low beam pattern was further down the road than it is wide, but for only 18.00 I can't complain and it was an easy enough thing to do.
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:05 AM   #12680
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Originally Posted by flyboy1100
i finally put my Osram H9 bulbs in today to replace the factory H11's. much much brighter, I would say equal in brightness to high beams. I wish the low beam pattern was further down the road than it is wide, but for only 18.00 I can't complain and it was an easy enough thing to do.
Are these those blue lights that all the jerks are rocking on their civics?
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:23 PM   #12681
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Originally Posted by EnterTheDragon View Post
Are these those blue lights that all the jerks are rocking on their civics?
......+1
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:09 PM   #12682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepNMnky

Between getting the torx head drill bit & heating it... it worked!!! Thanks Zeeper. I tried just the drill & still no luck. The heat was the trick.
You're welcome - I learned that trick while removing motorcycle bar ends that had 15 year old locktite and a little corrosion
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:52 PM   #12683
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Originally Posted by SleepNMnky View Post
Between getting the torx head drill bit & heating it... it worked!!! Thanks Zeeper. I tried just the drill & still no luck. The heat was the trick.
Just use some grease on the bolts to make sure they're easier to get off next time. Since I ride (bicycle, not motorcycle), I have tubes of grease just laying around so that's what I used.
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:53 PM   #12684
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just realized today that the "speed volume" isn't working on my car. anyone know which wire would control that on a non navi radio?
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:56 PM   #12685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnterTheDragon View Post
Are these those blue lights that all the jerks are rocking on their civics?
Amazon.com: Sylvania 64213 H9 12V65W BP 6 Halogen European Headlight, Pack of 1: AutomotiveAmazon.com: Sylvania 64213 H9 12V65W BP 6 Halogen European Headlight, Pack of 1: Automotive



so to answer your question, no.

h11 lumens are in the 1300ish range, H9 lumens are in the 2100ish range. well worth the slightly shorter bulb life

Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-16-2012 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:49 PM   #12686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
Amazon.com: Sylvania 64213 H9 12V65W BP 6 Halogen European Headlight, Pack of 1: Automotive



so to answer your question, no.

h11 lumens are in the 1300ish range, H9 lumens are in the 2100ish range. well worth the slightly shorter bulb life
You have to cut the tabs off to make it fit right? How is the beam pattern compared to the H11?
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:17 AM   #12687
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It's not sport as in racing. It's sport as in for people that do sports and outdoor things. It only comes in the 5 door with roof rails. More room for equipment. It has the all weather package and fog lights standard. They have higher ground clearance, 0.2 inches!!!
They aren't for improved performance. They are to better suit an outdoor lifestyle. They are a bridge to the Outback, not to the WRX.

Quote:
Originally Posted by auskip07 View Post
That was I

I dont see where there is a difference in suspension concerning the Sport vs non. Im sure subaru would have marketed it better if there was a difference

Wheels
Fog lights
Roof Rails
color options

look to be the only changes. Whats sport about it?
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:06 AM   #12688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST Eye View Post
You have to cut the tabs off to make it fit right? How is the beam pattern compared to the H11?
There is a tab inside the connector that needs you be removed, that's it.

The pattern is the same as stock, just brighter
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:26 AM   #12689
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Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
just realized today that the "speed volume" isn't working on my car. anyone know which wire would control that on a non navi radio?
Mine doesn't work either.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:10 AM   #12690
sgoldste01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TObject View Post
Why? They are scraping speed humps as is. The slightly raised Sports seem to be more desirable here.

Somebody complained his suspension sagged and he had to install spacers.
Does anyone manufacture an after-market skid plate? This is a really important accessory to add to VW diesel cars because the thin aluminum oil pan hangs really low in those cars.

What is the oil pan made of on the 2012 Impreza? Is it low enough that it needs skid plate protection?
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:15 AM   #12691
sgoldste01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WLS View Post
Doesn't the Sport (and the impreza Limited) have the 17inch tires? I'm thinking of eventually replacing the 205 50's with 205 55's for a few tenths gain in height.
Wouldn't this change your speedometer accuracy?
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:31 AM   #12692
sgoldste01
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I notice that when people report problems with their cars, they are asked what the build date is.

I'm very close to buying a 2012 Impreza Sport Premium 5-door. As luck would have it, the dealer just received one in a color I like (Obsidian Black Pearl/Dark Gray Metallic). It literally just arrived last week; when I saw it, they hadn't even removed the protective plastic covering the wheels. I don't know what the build date was, but it must be very recent (April or May, I would guess).

It is normally my policy to not buy a new car design during its first year of production. If I buy this car, then I'm going against this policy. However, I'm assuming we're far enough into the first year of production that many of the original issues that were discovered have already been addressed at the factory (which is why I assume people keep asking the build date question).

Is this a reasonable assumption, or should I pass on this car and not order one until I know it would be a 2013? How many fixes/improvements are likely to exist between an April/May 2012 car and an early 2013 car? When is the cut-off date after which ordered cars would be 2013s?

The primary issues I've seen in this thread include:

Squeaky driver's seat
Oil level light that comes on even though the level is OK
Oil level light that comes on because the car has excessive consumption
Moisture in the doors
Passenger occupancy sensor issues
Probably others that I'm forgetting

Are these issues not occurring on recently-built cars?

Last edited by sgoldste01; 06-17-2012 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:43 AM   #12693
doomedromance
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I know this well. I had an A4 and the oil pan was right in front right after the bumper and i cracked my oil pan 3 times. 1 bottoming out. 1 hitting a steep driveway. 1 more bottoming out (i was speeding)

Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
Does anyone manufacture an after-market skid plate? This is a really important accessory to add to VW diesel cars because the thin aluminum oil pan hangs really low in those cars.

What is the oil pan made of on the 2012 Impreza? Is it low enough that it needs skid plate protection?
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:48 AM   #12694
sgoldste01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doomedromance View Post
I know this well. I had an A4 and the oil pan was right in front right after the bumper and i cracked my oil pan 3 times. 1 bottoming out. 1 hitting a steep driveway. 1 more bottoming out (i was speeding)
Yes, I added a skid plate to my VW Golf TDI. I'm hoping this isn't as necessary on the 2012 Impreza.
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:51 AM   #12695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
I notice that when people report problems with their cars, they are asked what the build date is.

I'm very close to buying a 2012 Impreza Sport Premium 5-door. As luck would have it, the dealer just received one in a color I like (Obsidian Black Pearl/Dark Gray Metallic). It literally just arrived last week; when I saw it, they hadn't even removed the protective plastic covering the wheels. I don't know what the build date was, but it must be very recent (April or May, I would guess).

It is normally my policy to not buy a new car design during its first year of production. If I buy this car, then I'm going against this policy. However, I'm assuming we're far enough into the first year of production that many of the original issues that were discovered have already been addressed at the factory (which is why I assume people keep asking the build date question).

Is this a reasonable assumption, or should I pass on this car and not order one until I know it would be a 2013? How many fixes/improvements are likely to exist between an April/May 2012 car and an early 2013 car? When is the cut-off date after which ordered cars would be 2013s?

The primary issues I've seen in this thread include:

Squeaky driver's seat
Oil level light that comes on even though the level is OK
Oil level light that comes on because the car has excessive consumption
Moisture in the doors
Passenger occupancy sensor issues
Probably others that I'm forgetting

Are these issues not occurring on recently-built cars?
My car was a pre-order and build in October 2011. My car does not have any of the issues you are concerned about.

Any new car may have issues, from any manufacturer. The fact that some people are having issues is no indicator that you will have them.

As far as I know they haven't changed the design of the door seals, they may have made a change to the airbag sensor, they did make a change to the dipstick tube, they didn't make any changes to the engine or oil sensor.

In other words, they didn't change those things because there are not many drivers who are affected by them. If every driver had issues with the doors retaining water they would have redesigned the door seals, if every car was burning oil there would be some attempt to address it. Most drivers are not experiencing these issues, they are over-reported here (because if you had a car with issues, you would probably search the internets (sic) and start posting your problem, too).

By the way most people are also getting the expected MPG's from this car (go over to Fuelly and look at the data). You would never guess that reading the MPG forum on this site.
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:59 AM   #12696
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Wouldn't this change your speedometer accuracy?
It might or it might make it more accurate. Subaru makes a variety of Imprezas with different wheels and I don't know if they calibrate the speedometer for each one.
The first step is to see what a GPS says is your speed on the freeway and then look for one of those radar readers in town that post your speed, using those two points of info you can get an idea of whether your speedometer is high or low.
Then go to http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html and plug in some numbers to see what sizes affect the height and speedometer readout in the way you want.
I want to go to 55 series to get some more rim protection and because the shops are charging more now to work on 50 series tires or lower. The 205 55's ride a bit higher too. The 195 55's are a close match in height and are a bit narrower which tends to be better for snow and rain in my experience so either of those tires look good to me.
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:10 PM   #12697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
I'm assuming we're far enough into the first year of production that many of the original issues that were discovered have already been addressed at the factory (which is why I assume people keep asking the build date question).

How many fixes/improvements are likely to exist between an April/May 2012 car and an early 2013 car? When is the cut-off date after which ordered cars would be 2013s?
Wasn't there a very early-production recall with the brakes? I'm guessing that's the only issue Subaru has dealt with "openly". Some of the issues folks seem to have had, ie. squeaky seats, are probably due to the fact that it's an econo-box, regardless of how cool it is, or how well equipped. Other issues, like moisture in the headlamps and door panels, could probably be dealt with easily. Replace window seals with ones for a WRX (assuming they are the same size, and don't have moisture issues)? Or maybe use some sealant on the headlamps? Or maybe just swap in headlamp modules from a WRX...will they swap simply enough??

April 23 was the cut-off for 2012's, they're retooling the factory(ies) for 2013's in July, then they're producing 2013's in August, to arrive in dealerships by late-August-September? I'm guessing there's a couple months of pre-orders for 2013's and that not much is going to be different between model years. I'm holding out hope that any improvements for 2013 are applied to late 2012 models (still waiting for my late-run build...ordered March 12th, still waiting 97 days later). But, unless you like whatever stock dealers might still have on hand...almost all base models in black or gray, around here in Portland-area from what I can tell...you'll have to wait a while. I wonder if Subaru will be still sending 2012's even as they're making 2013's? I bet for that reason alone the difference between the 2 years will be about the same as the difference between an Oct 2011 build and one built last month, but it's only my uneducated guess...
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:17 PM   #12698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haunty View Post
Mine doesn't work either.
you still have the factory radio?
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:36 PM   #12699
DaveM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeper View Post
... they did make a change to the dipstick tube, they didn't make any changes to the engine or oil sensor.
Curious ... what was the issue with the dipstick tube and what (and when) did they change?

Thanks!
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:13 PM   #12700
Haunty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
Does anyone manufacture an after-market skid plate? This is a really important accessory to add to VW diesel cars because the thin aluminum oil pan hangs really low in those cars.

What is the oil pan made of on the 2012 Impreza? Is it low enough that it needs skid plate protection?
The oil pan is not hanging down below everything else and looks to be adequately protected, the front plastic covers underneath are actually lower, there is a hole in the plastic cover so you can get at the drain plug.


Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
you still have the factory radio?
Yeah I still have the factory radio, no modifications at all. I don't really care about that feature so I haven't thought much of it.
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