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Old 02-13-2011, 10:26 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by cha86 View Post
can anyone explain why people do this? is it because of the extra detergents? or any particular additive?
19 reasons, biggest one being usually it has a higher TBN to begin with so you can do extended oil change intervals.
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Old 02-14-2011, 01:32 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by cha86 View Post
i used conventional rotella for awhile..i switched to amsoil 5w30 and my car is much happier.

i never understood why people use diesel oil in gas cars. granted i did it per recommendation.

can anyone explain why people do this? is it because of the extra detergents? or any particular additive?
how do you know your car is 'happier'??

did you get uoa on all the oils you have used?
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Old 02-14-2011, 01:39 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
how do you know your car is 'happier'??

did you get uoa on all the oils you have used?
lol, the shifter is stiff
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Old 02-14-2011, 02:16 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by cha86 View Post
i used conventional rotella for awhile..i switched to amsoil 5w30 and my car is much happier.

i never understood why people use diesel oil in gas cars. granted i did it per recommendation.

can anyone explain why people do this? is it because of the extra detergents? or any particular additive?
You were using Rotella 15W40. We are talking about Rotella T6 5W40 here. It's a different animal altogether.
By the way, both Rotella 15W40 and Rotella T6 5W40 are suitable for both gasoline and Diesel engines alike. They are not exclusively Diesel engine oils. It's all on the bottle (API SM/SL compliance).
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:45 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
19 reasons, biggest one being usually it has a higher TBN to begin with so you can do extended oil change intervals.
TBN? (time between ___??) sorry

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
how do you know your car is 'happier'??

did you get uoa on all the oils you have used?
no scotty i have no got an oil analysis. i have noticed less oil consumption with the change though. so when i say happier, thats what i implied. but i think im going to send a sample in and see, im curious.

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Originally Posted by dakrat View Post
lol, the shifter is stiff
not trans oil..

Quote:
Originally Posted by neg_matnik View Post
You were using Rotella 15W40. We are talking about Rotella T6 5W40 here. It's a different animal altogether.
By the way, both Rotella 15W40 and Rotella T6 5W40 are suitable for both gasoline and Diesel engines alike. They are not exclusively Diesel engine oils. It's all on the bottle (API SM/SL compliance).
i was using conventional 15w40...reading the bottle it seems to imply that its for heavier machinery and diesel applications. i guess im confused, i was under the assumption that the oils for gas and diesels where a little different and some of the additives in the oil used in diesels weren't good for gas engines.


now i know some use it because its cheap. around here i can pick up a gallon of either t6 or 15w40 for around 12 bucks. which is pretty awesome. i did use to work at a parts store though and we carried amsoil, i still get my discount so i figured it try it after my engine was broken in. i pay roughly 6~ a QT. but hey, to each his own i suppose.

edit: im also really not a fan of having the spread of 'thickness' if you would (cold and operating temps)... to be so much with the t6.

Last edited by cha86; 02-14-2011 at 04:00 AM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:52 AM   #31
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TBN = total base number
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:14 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cha86 View Post
[...]

i was using conventional 15w40...reading the bottle it seems to imply that its for heavier machinery and diesel applications. i guess im confused, i was under the assumption that the oils for gas and diesels where a little different and some of the additives in the oil used in diesels weren't good for gas engines.


now i know some use it because its cheap. around here i can pick up a gallon of either t6 or 15w40 for around 12 bucks. which is pretty awesome. i did use to work at a parts store though and we carried amsoil, i still get my discount so i figured it try it after my engine was broken in. i pay roughly 6~ a QT. but hey, to each his own i suppose.

edit: im also really not a fan of having the spread of 'thickness' if you would (cold and operating temps)... to be so much with the t6.
Yes, you're correct, Rotella T oils are Heavy Duty Engine Oils (HDEO) mainly geared towards Diesel applications. But, at the same time, these oils are API SM/SL certified which means they are OK to use with gasoline engines.
IMO, the additives in Rotella may not be perfect for every gas engine out there, but it's working well with our turbo Subaru engines. It's also working well in my Suzuki SV1000S V-twin (no friction modifiers in HDEOs, perfect for wet clutches). And, yes, it's widely available and it's cheap.

EDIT: I wouldn't worry too much about the 5 to 40 weight spread. They are 0w40 and 5w50 oils out there that have proven to be very good despite their seemingly wide weight spread.
EDIT2: Some people really don't need a 5wX oil and should probably stick to 10wX oils (places like Florida comes to mind). So, for these people, there are better choices than Rotella T6.

Last edited by neg_matnik; 02-14-2011 at 05:37 AM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:06 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
If this were true....then how the hell is it sold as an engine lubricant????
I'm not at all defending the original post, and I agree that T-6 in itself wouldn't cause a filter to clog. However, could it be related to the same reason SOA switched to a smaller filter to avoid additional heat from exhaust?

T-6 + Exhaust heat = higher chances of clogging?
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:20 PM   #34
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The only downside I have heard about T6 Rotella or any high zinc content oil is that it can cause premature failure of your catalytic converter. With that said plenty of our customers use the Rotella and like it.

Personally I bounce between Motul 8100 and Amsoil European.

-mike


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Old 02-14-2011, 06:28 PM   #35
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that it can cause premature failure of your catalytic converter
Catalytic converter.... What's that? Ha.
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:07 PM   #36
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I would not worry about the "HDEO causes cats to wear out" argument....if you are losing a quart per 1K out the exhaust, maybe. But not in a "normal" car/application.
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Old 02-14-2011, 09:59 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Jersey_Marine View Post
I was advised by a representative from Dyno-Comp that Rotella T6 is not good because it has additives in it that can clog oil filters...I have read so many good things about Rotella T6 on the forums and now I'm confused. The rep said they have been racing Subaru motors for a long time and he strongly doesn't recommend it. By the way, he was an exremely nice guy I'm just confused about his opinion.
Any more details from Dyno-Comp?

-Dennis
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:06 PM   #38
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I use t6 in both my 09 wrx and 06 lgt So far so good and I plan to keep running it .
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:16 AM   #39
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I would not worry about the "HDEO causes cats to wear out" argument....if you are losing a quart per 1K out the exhaust, maybe. But not in a "normal" car/application.
I agree. Also, HDEO have to play nice with Diesel particulate filters that are subject to clogging just like catalytic converters. In any case, people running Rotella T6 are usually experiencing very little oil consumption to begin with.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:08 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by JamesWilson2 View Post
I would not worry about the "HDEO causes cats to wear out" argument....if you are losing a quart per 1K out the exhaust, maybe. But not in a "normal" car/application.
Funny you should mention that, as 1qt/1000 miles is considered NORMAL consumption per SOA.....
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:59 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by AZP Installs View Post
The only downside I have heard about T6 Rotella or any high zinc content oil is that it can cause premature failure of your catalytic converter. With that said plenty of our customers use the Rotella and like it.

Personally I bounce between Motul 8100 and Amsoil European.

-mike
I believe, in what I have read, the concern was for usage in cars that consumed oil(as in worn out engines) and with 100k+ miles


as in fergetaboutit being a real concern for 99% of us....no...really
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:30 AM   #42
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The "zinc/phosphorous/ZDDP" is bad for your cats myth is only a result of emission standards for newer vehicles, ie: TLEV/LEV/ULEV/SULEV/PZEV/. What comes with these labels (at the ULEV and later classifications) are 15yr/150k mile emissions warranties.

That being said, manufacturers want to cover their arses and have as few emissions components failing as possible to prevent future costs for warranty claims. Knowing that most people who own vehicles abuse them and are negligent in the maintenance of their vehicles, and as a result of that are likely to start burning oil before they hit 75k miles, (not to mention MOST engines burn SOME oil) you can understand why the auto industry wants to remove as much potential toxicity as they possibly can from engine oil in the hopes that their 150k mile cat warranty will never be used. And thus, they recommend us the lowest Zinc/Phosphorous content "Energy Conserving" variety.

Zinc/phosphorous/ZDDP is better for your engine than it is bad for your cats, however, the moving parts in most modern engines are so heavily nitrided that it negates the need for the Zinc anyway. Back in the day, you would wear the lobes off your camshaft if you didn't have ENOUGH Zinc. Nowadays it doesn't really matter, even a cheap "Energy Conserving" conventional oil has plenty for a heavily nitrided modern engine. Nothing wrong with a higher Zinc content either, UNLESS you're dumping a lot of it into your cat substrate, and even still, it's gonna take quite a bit of it before giving up, at which point you're just an idiot for not fixing your damned car instead of continuing to pour oil into it, and you deserve a bad cat.

C/N: What Uncle Scotty said.
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Old 02-18-2011, 10:27 AM   #43
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Been using it fine here, love it actually. UOA confirms it.
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:17 PM   #44
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All I had to read was "Dynocomp" and I knew something was gonna be fishy about this post.
If you're referring to Dynocomp down here in AZ, search about them in the SWIC and you'll be quite amazed at the reviews of the shop. Its not very popular amongst many of the Subie drivers here, but to each his own. If you're not talking about dynocomp here in AZ well then nevermind...
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:24 PM   #45
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LOVE my T6
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:02 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Seventh View Post
The "zinc/phosphorous/ZDDP" is bad for your cats myth...
It's no myth that phosphorus binds to the catalyst element(s) internally and reduces its effectiveness. I do agree that newer regulations imposed against the manufacturers are pushing the industry to be more conscious of catalyst durability. People are also keeping cars longer now than ever before, and that's a factor as well. I also agree that so long as an engine isn't consuming oil, and given that lower-volatility phosphorus compounds are now being used anyway, catalyst performance degradation isn't particularly an issue for the term of the required warranty.
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:28 AM   #47
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Any more details from Dyno-Comp?

-Dennis
call them direct 480.596.0500
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:58 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by rdieder

call them direct 480.596.0500
Why? I'm not the one making a claim about oil. If I had started this thread, I would be trying to obtain more information.

-Dennis
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Old 02-19-2011, 11:12 AM   #49
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I think anything that maintains itself to a true 5w-30 or higher would be sufficient to be honest. I used T6 for about 40k of 86k on my old motor, and still spun a rod bearing. No oil performs miracles if a tune is bad, and you arent changing the oil lol. I was changing mine at 4500 miles give or take a few hundred, and it always poured out looking pretty decent. I had used mobil 1 once, just to see if i could reduce some misfire issues, and i changed the oil at 3k miles, and it just looked like black lake water. Im going to use rotella again, because it makes me feel better when I push my car into the redline.
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:35 PM   #50
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I only run T-6 In my WRX ever since I bought it. The reason it MIGHT cause some gunking in your oil filter IF you cut it open is only the fact that you MIGHT have had an additive in your system at one time added previously and it is clearing it out due to all of the cleaners and detergents in the oil due to it mainly being used on DIESEL applications.

Runs fine in my Subbie for the past 20K miles (3K intervals, 1.5K if I have had it tuned recently or change something drastic) and I will be using it for all of my subbies from here on
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