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Old 09-02-2006, 11:08 PM   #1
Drink
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Default My hybrid build on a budget...

Today, I started in on my shortblock swap.

BACKGROUND...

About 6 weeks ago, I took to my tuner for a map for my new 18g setup. It was a typical dyno day from hell. The baseline pull pegged the dynojet wideband @ 18 & the factory o2 showed a real safe 22 . The fuel situation was resolved quickly. The car still didn't want to make decent power (about 250whp @ 20psi). The curve was very choppy all the way through (thought to be a leaky bov). Between the problem holding boost, and the ambient temps just under 100 degrees, I chose to take a conservative map, adjust some things, & try again another day. Took it for a test drive, 5 minutes into it... very noticeable rod knock. I estmate a bad bearing.

The 205 had just over 60k on it. It went to Cobb STG II right after I left the dealer, had a protune done @ about 20k. It saw regular oil changes- M1 5w-30 every 3k mi. I switched to 10w-30 after I started to notice a bit of consumption.

DECISIONS...

First & foremost, I did not have money budgeted to replace a block. You have to love large unexpected expenses . I wanted something that would be reliable, enjoyable, and reasonably priced. I'm not looking for a dyno queen or a track monster- this is my DD. I wanted something that had plenty of low end torque, & maybe crack the 300whp mark down the road.

I opted for a OEM 257 shortblock, it was only $200 more than the 205. I've noticed how popular these swaps have become, so I figured I would post my build. I have experience with engines (mianly DSMs), but this will be my first subaru tear-down/build-up. I'm hoping this post can help me learn as I go, and maybe be a decent reference for others down the road.

I've done alot of research to figure out what would work best for me. I've opted to stick with factory headstuds and HG. I'd rather run higher compression (9.1:1) as I wont be boosting much with the td04 (yeah thats right ). I know this topic is highly debated, but I'm not a fan of changing compression ratios by +/- HG thickness. The get-up-and go will make for a fun commute! I'm very curious to see how it will perform with my mods as I don't think many have really tried to push the td04 on a 2.5...

Mods that pertain to this post...

-AP & GM solenoid
-FMIC
-Short ram & inlet hose
-Headers, uppipe, downpipe, CB (catless)
-Lightened crank pulley
-Walbro 255

HOW MUCH???

Since my build is mainly $$$ oriented, I figured I'd share with everyone who may be in the same boat as me. Not too bad...

Dealer parts purchased... (Free Shipping)

Subaru OEM 257 short block PN:10103AB440 1495.00

WRX overhaul gasket kit PN:10105AA560 200.26

STi OEM Head gasket PN:11044AA641 50.00

OEM STi oil pump PN:15010AA280 92.37

OEM water pump PN:21111AA240 79.17

OEM WRX timing belt PN:13028AA240 98.97

OEM thermostat PN:21200AA072 9.87

Other parts purchased...

Exedy organic clutch kit 180.00

(2) 3" exhaust gaskets 30.00

Perrin MBC 50.00

NGK 1-step colder iridium plugs 50.00

Tools/Supplies I didn't have...

2-ton engine hoist 129.99

Engine leveler 32.99

Silicone gasket sealer 5.00

Thread locker 8.00

New torque wrench 30.00

Engine Fluids 50.00

Grand Total... 2575.98
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Old 09-02-2006, 11:14 PM   #2
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Very nice.
I wish I was able to do the motor pull myself. On my project.

Hell if i could find a BOOK on my 2006 wrx I would love to do it my self. It would save me 1000.00
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Old 09-02-2006, 11:16 PM   #3
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Got some things prepped for removal today. Assembled the the hoist this afternoon. Wow, they couldn't have been anymore vague with the instructions. Gathered up some supplies and put the stand together.





Removed hood, turbo, injectors, exhaust, vacuum lines, and intake. I will be taking off the front bumper cover & removing the radiator first thing in the AM.

Went ahead and drained all engine fluids also .

I'm tired and called it a day.



-Matt
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Old 09-02-2006, 11:17 PM   #4
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Sounds like a neat project, and I'll be curious about how this turns out. But be careful....300 WHP, and you might have another large unexpected expense in the form of a transmission.
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Old 09-03-2006, 01:39 AM   #5
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good luck man. i just started my hybrid build thread a couple days ago as well. hopefully we can help eachother out in the process.
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Old 09-03-2006, 02:40 AM   #6
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Man I'd be kicking myself for not buying the STi, now don't forget where everthing goes after you take it out
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Old 09-03-2006, 12:50 PM   #7
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Yeah at this point with the money I have into the car, I should have just went with an STi.

I'm taking a lunch break and just had a few questions I'd like clarified. MY FSM disc does not seem to have the disassembly procedure.

What is the best way to undo the throttle cable? Remove the entire TB?

I'm getting ready to remove the intake monifold & I'm curious about motor removal. I'm using a 4pt leveler, any suggestions on hooking it up? Should I just use existing bolts/holes?

After that I just have to jack up the trans, pull the bolts, undo the mounts and its out.
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Old 09-03-2006, 01:03 PM   #8
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If I know I am going to be removing the intake manifold, I take it off while the motor is still is in the car. then I bolt the engine hoist to the heads directly so I get a good solid 4 way lift.

Jack the tranny up just enough so the engine mounts clear the cross member.

Throttle cable "should" be bolted on with two 10 mm bolts. Unbolt those and then unclip the ends of the throttle cables from the throttle.

REMEMBER to look at every single connection to the motor! Dollar to donut there is a clip, or wire, that you missed and will show up when you try to hoist the motor out.

Good luck!
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Old 09-03-2006, 01:17 PM   #9
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Cool thanks alot! I've taken alot of extra time placing bolt in labeled ziplock bags, and labeling harness ends with masking tape.
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Old 09-03-2006, 01:17 PM   #10
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MMMMMM build threads are awesome. Good luck bro.
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Old 09-03-2006, 01:19 PM   #11
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yep, the intake manifold is going to be super easy to take off ONCE the engine is out...so just wait till then to do it.

like stated above, taking off the throttle cables off is just loosening the 4 total 10mm nuts.
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Old 09-03-2006, 01:40 PM   #12
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As for the disassembly procedure,

While the engine is hanging, remove the clutch and flywheel. You might have to lower the engine to the ground so that you can get enough torque to break free the bolts. You might also have to have someone jam a screwdriver into the flywheel housing to keep it from moving, or hold a breaker bar on the 22mm front crank bolt.

Now take the engine mount bracketry and bolt it to the back of the motor, then insert the tube on the bracket into the actual engine stand.

Start unbolting! Take EVERYTHING off the front of the motor and even looks like it has something to do with keeping the heads attached to the block. Dollar to a donut your plastic cam covers are bolted to the block. You have to remove the cam gears to get to some of these bolts, as well as to get the cams out.

Once all the front stuff is removed, remove your cam covers and tip the block on its side.

OK, the following worked for DOHC heads. I don't know what you have, but even if you don't need to pull the cams to get to the head bolts, this stuff will still be in the right direction.

To get the heads off, I think you will need to remove your cam gears. This is annoying. Get yourself a setup that can safely and cleanly keep everything organized. Simply unbolt the 3(?) covers to each cam. You will have to gently tap out the front of the cam cause odds are its pretty tight in there.

Now that the cams are out, you can get to the head bolts. Get a good long breaker bar, as those head bolts can be a bitch. Crack them all free, then you can quickly get them out. With a good mallet, you can tap the head free.

Are you reusing your pistons?

To remove your pistons, you can do the front two with the engine still mounted to the engine stand. There should be two covers that are hex head shallow "bolts". remove these and you can get to the piston pins. You need to remove the clip that holds the pin in place. You should be able to do this with needle nose pliers, unless Subaru has changed these factory style clips recently.

Now you can either push the pin out from the backside (engine can't be on the engine stand to do this), or use a piston pin removal tool, which you can either make or buy.

Once the pin is removed, crank the motor over and the piston will come up and stay there. Crank the motor over again so the piston would normally go all the back in. Now push and twist the piston back into the cylinder. Crank the motor over again and the connecting rod will push the piston out of the cylinder.
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:52 AM   #13
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It's a few past midnight and I'm beat. Today didn't go as well as I had hoped it to. I wanted the block to be out, on the stand, & half-way disassembled by the time I called it quits. I went ahead pulled everything off the block while it was still inside the bay- minus the heads, timingbelt.

My big hold up is seperating the block from the trans. I spent a good 3 hours tonight trying different angles and approaches to hoist it out. YOu can see in the pic below where I chose to connect it. I was a big hesitant to bolting the hoist to any part of the heads- ie. the intake manifold. I don't need to break them as I need to resuse them .Best I could manage was getting the 2 bottom studs to go 3/4 of the way out. Jesus, this part is a huge PITA. Seems like it may be due to fatigue and my loopiness at the moment .I really didn't want to stop at this point, but I was just too tired. I'm going to try again in the AM, hopefully well rested.

Feel free to chime in with any strategies that worked for you guys. I've read around that it is a combo of hoisting while jacking once its semi- seperated.



I made it to the corner store in time to grab a 6-pack, about 3 minutes before they stopped serving. So I'm going to have a few beers, smoke a cig then hit the hay.

-Matt
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Old 09-04-2006, 02:27 AM   #14
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Dumb question but it must be asked... you took the used a 10mm allen key to remove the cover ont he trans... then threaded an 8mm (i think) bolt into the dowel and pulled it out... right? I don't know the part names but if you're stuck, this could be the problem.
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Old 09-04-2006, 02:32 AM   #15
Drink
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I sure did . 6 bolts + 2 nuts removed, everything is good to go from that aspect. It is definately the 2 studs holding me back. I know at this point they are stripped, if not bent also. I need to realize that when you get frustarated, it is time to walk away for the night .

-Matt
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Old 09-04-2006, 02:43 AM   #16
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hmm, it should just pop right off after you get that fork piece out with the 10mm allen and the tranny nuts/bolts.
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Old 09-04-2006, 07:58 PM   #17
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Today went alot better. The hold up was an overlooked mount bolt, the engine was free from the mount and but the mount was still on the subframe .

Got it out and on the stand just fine. But the motor mount brackets are bent a bit now.



The rods look to be in great shape, but metal shavings were everywhere. Went ahead and peeled the oil pan to find more shavings...



Got everything removed minus the cams and heads. These will be a pain I'm sure. I'll get to those tomm. after work with a impact gun. From the valve cover side everything looks surprisingly good, no marks on the cams at 60k mi. Here is 3/4...



I'm calling it a day for now. The rain set in...



I was wondering about torque specs for heads??? I've heard STi specs work okay, but just wanted to confirm.
I don't have a parts washer and someof these components are very dirty think brake cleaner will work on everything?

-Matt

Last edited by Drink; 09-04-2006 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:03 AM   #18
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So you have to use the STi torque specs with the WRX heads? I would think since you were using WRX headstuds and WRX heads you would want to torque them in sequence and to the specs listed in the WRX shop manual.

Also the cams are a pain in the ass to get out. You have to use like a 1 1/8" wrench to hold the camshaft and then use that 10mm hex bit on the opposite end. Once those are removed and you have cams pulled make sure the cam scroll area isn't scored in any way. If it is you will probably need to get new cams.

Last edited by kinada423; 09-05-2006 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 09-05-2006, 01:29 AM   #19
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WHOA!!! That camera flash really does help you see the glitter in the oil pan.

That impact gun should help alot with getting those cam sprockets off. If you need any other advice you know you can hit me up.
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Old 09-05-2006, 02:34 AM   #20
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Old 09-05-2006, 09:25 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrinkAV8 View Post
Today went alot better. The hold up was an overlooked mount bolt, the engine was free from the mount and but the mount was still on the subframe .

Got it out and on the stand just fine. But the motor mount brackets are bent a bit now.



The rods look to be in great shape, but metal shavings were everywhere. Went ahead and peeled the oil pan to find more shavings...



Got everything removed minus the cams and heads. These will be a pain I'm sure. I'll get to those tomm. after work with a impact gun. From the valve cover side everything looks surprisingly good, no marks on the cams at 60k mi. Here is 3/4...



I'm calling it a day for now. The rain set in...



I was wondering about torque specs for heads??? I've heard STi specs work okay, but just wanted to confirm.
I don't have a parts washer and someof these components are very dirty think brake cleaner will work on everything?

-Matt
glad to see everything is going smooth. the oil filter willl catch almost all the metal ,so you cams and all the other stuff up top should be ok. i would still get them decked and cleaned up. replace the valve seals and whatever else needs to be done. i know it is a budget but it would suck to have to pull it again for a problem in a head or with a valve sorry i cannot come out and help i am doing my own stuff for my final tune mabye ted can get with me next weekend ,and we can head out to ya for a bit
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Old 09-05-2006, 10:53 AM   #22
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Hey thanks Vince, I'm curious to see your car's end result... that thing is mean. Ted's afraid he is in the same boat as me, you guys are welcome to stop over anytime.
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:02 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddevil View Post
thats the best educational video i have seen on here yet!

outstanding job! I have never built a suby engine before....never even seen a shortblock in front of me....that video is a great tool for people who will pull pistons out for the first time. thanks!
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Old 09-05-2006, 01:11 PM   #24
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Good luck with your project... keep us posted.

What injectors were you using with your 18g set-up? Where's that 18g now?

Great thread.
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Old 09-05-2006, 01:16 PM   #25
Drink
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Nice vid reddevil! Very informative.

I was running modded/tested 750cc stockers. I sold the FP, I know I should have just kept it .
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