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Old 05-07-2012, 04:40 PM   #1
chet24
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Default Motorcycle or wheels/tires?

I have ~1000 right now to do something fun and want opinions. My gray 08 hatch is on the stock steel 16" rims with some pretty beat up hubcaps, but I really want an older motorcycle. I have found a few that I could probably get for 800 or so, but would expect to be around 1100+ for decent new rims and some summer performance-ish tires. I would keep the current rims and tires for winter.
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:13 PM   #2
sycotuck
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get a motorcycle!! i just got one and its a blast. you can't beat it!
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chet24 View Post
I have ~1000 right now to do something fun and want opinions. My gray 08 hatch is on the stock steel 16" rims with some pretty beat up hubcaps, but I really want an older motorcycle. I have found a few that I could probably get for 800 or so, but would expect to be around 1100+ for decent new rims and some summer performance-ish tires. I would keep the current rims and tires for winter.
Since you mentioned wanting something fun, get a motorcycle to putt around town with. Then use the money saved in gas towards your wheel/tire fund. I'd think a motorcycle would be more fun than new wheels/tires
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:53 PM   #4
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Bike first, wheels later.
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:24 PM   #5
adevney
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I say wheels. But I sold my bike to get a nicer car. My car comes first then if I can afford a bike I'll get one.
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:13 PM   #6
chet24
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I am picking up an 84 Honda tonight... Wheels to come at a future date.
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:01 PM   #7
That guy in Maine
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Not a good idea at all.

You're going to dump money into an older bike that to keep it running, and you'll also need gear, to take a BRC, insurance on the bike, etc...chances are you'll need tires for it too.

I thought I could get a good deal with the CBR I got for $450. It's looking like about $2,700 including tires, other parts, gear, insurance and BRC before I start riding.

Almost there though, and definitely going to be worth it!!
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That guy in Maine View Post
Not a good idea at all.

You're going to dump money into an older bike that to keep it running, and you'll also need gear, to take a BRC, insurance on the bike, etc...chances are you'll need tires for it too.

Almost there though, and definitely going to be worth it!!
Depends entirely on the bike. There are some clean examples out there that need nothing more than a quick carb rebuild, tires and maybe a new chain. Others could be a money pit.

Get the bike.
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:53 PM   #9
chet24
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I do have the bike and it looks like it has been kept very well. It is very clean at least... I am replacing the throttle cable, and the hand brake has a crack in it, so all-in-all, should be like 25 bucks? But it also might need a battery. The guy said he thought it did, but I'm charging up the one on it first before I invest the 70+ for a new one. I did my research and this one seems to be a good find. The guy was moving today, so he was willing to take whatever he could for it and I got it for a good price.
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:57 PM   #10
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I think its best to get a bike only when you have a spare car to drive during the daytime. bring the bike out at night when theirs ALOT less drivers on the road. I've seen some nasty accidents happen in person involving bikers during rush hour. You can trust your own skills, but not other peoples driving skills.
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Old 05-10-2012, 01:02 PM   #11
2.5L Monster
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Wheels.

How about you save that $1k and wait until you have more money to get a newer fuel injected bike that will last longer and you will enjoy more. Whatever bike you're looking at that is under $1000 dollars will do you nothing.
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chet24 View Post
I am picking up an 84 Honda tonight... Wheels to come at a future date.
Good call. I'm looking at bikes now as well.
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:26 PM   #13
Dmochowski
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i dont think i would ride a 1,000 motorcycle... unless you bought it then rebuilt it.
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:44 PM   #14
findurpath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That guy in Maine
Not a good idea at all.

You're going to dump money into an older bike that to keep it running, and you'll also need gear, to take a BRC, insurance on the bike, etc...chances are you'll need tires for it too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmochowski View Post
i dont think i would ride a 1,000 motorcycle... unless you bought it then rebuilt it.
That's a pretty general statement. Not all $1000 motorcycles require work or additional money.

How do you know he doesn't already have a motorcycle endorsement and knows how to ride? Maybe he already has gear? Either way, the cost of those things are still not going to exceed the cost of new wheels and tires. He's still going to come out ahead.

I bought a 2003 Ninja 250 with only 3000 miles for $1000 last summer and didn't have to spend anything on it. Insurance is only $90 a year for comprehensive with a $250 deductible.

OP, I think you made the right choice.
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:30 PM   #15
That guy in Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyrobber View Post
Depends entirely on the bike. There are some clean examples out there that need nothing more than a quick carb rebuild, tires and maybe a new chain. Others could be a money pit.

Get the bike.
Maybe I wasn't clear enough. My bike cost me $450. It runs fine, it wasn't quite ready for the road when I got it. To get it street legal and safe it cost me about $400 more, so I came in at getting a good reliable CBR for about $850.

When you replace the chain, you should replace the sprockets as well since they wear together. A new kit of chain and sprockets is about $150.

If you do the carb rebuild yourself, it's about $50 for parts, if sent to a shop it'll probably be about $200-$300 depending on the bike.

Front tires are about $120, rear are about $150 depending on the tires you get.

Now keep in mind, that on a bike such as mine you should change the oil every 1000-1500 miles, which is 2-4 times more often than I change it in my car. Plus all the other maintenance like changing tires every 12-15K miles, and the chain every 15K. That pretty much negates the gas savings right there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chet24 View Post
I do have the bike and it looks like it has been kept very well. It is very clean at least... I am replacing the throttle cable, and the hand brake has a crack in it, so all-in-all, should be like 25 bucks? But it also might need a battery. The guy said he thought it did, but I'm charging up the one on it first before I invest the 70+ for a new one. I did my research and this one seems to be a good find. The guy was moving today, so he was willing to take whatever he could for it and I got it for a good price.
You seem to be new to bikes, older was not the way to start riding. It's going to develop a lot of problems within the first few months of riding. It'll be in the garage more than it's on the road most likely, of course it depends on the model.

To get a good new lever should be at least $60, the eBay crap ones have been linked to crashes just so you know. The throttle cable will be about $20 after shipping. You're looking at about $85 with shipping for everything for those two parts just FYI. Test the battery, do it with a multimeter following the specs for your bike, get a Clymer or similar manual for your bike, it'll be really helpful on such an old bike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by findurpath View Post
That's a pretty general statement. Not all $1000 motorcycles require work or additional money.

How do you know he doesn't already have a motorcycle endorsement and knows how to ride? Maybe he already has gear? Either way, the cost of those things are still not going to exceed the cost of new wheels and tires. He's still going to come out ahead.

I bought a 2003 Ninja 250 with only 3000 miles for $1000 last summer and didn't have to spend anything on it. Insurance is only $90 a year for comprehensive with a $250 deductible.

OP, I think you made the right choice.
I'm guessing he's new to bikes since he doesn't mention any past experience with them...so I'm guessing he has no gear...

In my area, and a lot of others a proper BRC is about $300. That will get you your license. Insurance is cheap on a 250 obviously, since they have no power. They're maxed out to keep at highway speeds

My 600 is $259/year. Pretty good price if you ask around...

Gear...any helmet is better than none, but I wouldn't buy one for less than $200...I know my helmet is about $500.

You'll want a leather jacket, good riding pants (leather is best obviously), gloves and boots. Expect to spend about $800 minimum for all that, and that's for used jackets and pants.

Your 250 for $1,000 is normal, it's a great bike too. I'm sure you're happy with it and next year you'll sell it and get a 600 like most people do.

The OP made the wrong choice IMO, I would have kept that money aside just in case something goes wrong with the car, or I need new tires like he does.

I'm in no way trying to say "Don't get a motorcycle" because I think they're great fun, but I am saying...don't expect to get into motorcycles for $1,000 because it isn't happening unless your family rides and has gear to give/lend you plus a lot of other factors.

Just FYI, something like 80-90% of fatal crashes involve riders who haven't taken the BRC. That should tell you something about how important it is to take it.

Good luck with the bike OP, but I don't think now was the right time to buy one. But hopefully it works out, just remember ATGATT! (All the gear, all the time)
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:35 PM   #16
Dmochowski
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after buying a brand new r6 back in 2005 i am a little spoiled... but then after riding a lot i realize that people abuse their bikes, drop them, dont wash and oil chains, or otherwise maintain them like they should. So anything that has changed hands a few times probably isnt one i would ride.
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:05 PM   #17
chet24
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You are assuming a lot, and you are right on some of it. But let me help.

First off, this is my first road bike. I have had MANY fourwheelers and dirtbikes though, including 400ex, Raptor 660, CR 250, CRF 450, and others. I do have a lot of good gear, mostly everything except the leather jacket, which I am taking from a friend who just got a new one. And I don't intend to buy any pants since I am not doing any commuting, and I don't live in the city. I will be using it to drive to work and back 10 miles on small town highway roads. If I am pleased with the bike' reliability, and become a lot more comfortable on it, I may decided to commute to school in the fall when it starts up again, at which point I will look into some pants.

Quote:
Originally Posted by That guy in Maine View Post
When you replace the chain, you should replace the sprockets as well since they wear together. A new kit of chain and sprockets is about $150.
The Chain looks great, the guy replaced it about 2000k miles ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by That guy in Maine View Post
If you do the carb rebuild yourself, it's about $50 for parts, if sent to a shop it'll probably be about $200-$300 depending on the bike.
Carb looks very clean, and there is no sign of any other leaking anywhere on the engine. And I am adventurous if something does come up. I also have a 1973 Ford F-350 with a big block 390, which I have done a lot of internal work to, including rebuilding the carb. I know it won't be identical, but if I can figure out how to all that work with no one to help me, I am not too worried.

Quote:
Originally Posted by That guy in Maine View Post
Front tires are about $120, rear are about $150 depending on the tires you get.
Tires are good for a long time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by That guy in Maine View Post
You seem to be new to bikes, older was not the way to start riding. It's going to develop a lot of problems within the first few months of riding. It'll be in the garage more than it's on the road most likely, of course it depends on the model.
I am in school right now working on a mechanical engineering degree, and have access to just about any tool or machine I need. One of the reasons I decided to do the bike was because I was running out of things to do to my car without going internal, and with that being my daily driver, I need it and don't have time on my days off to experiment and figure out how to do major mods.

Quote:
Originally Posted by That guy in Maine View Post
To get a good new lever should be at least $60, the eBay crap ones have been linked to crashes just so you know. The throttle cable will be about $20 after shipping. You're looking at about $85 with shipping for everything for those two parts just FYI. Test the battery, do it with a multimeter following the specs for your bike, get a Clymer or similar manual for your bike, it'll be really helpful on such an old bike.
Everything ordered from a Honda authorized shop, cable, lever, and the new battery (which they looked at for me), I am in $76. The manual is a great idea though and I am now looking for one.

So I hope I don't come across as attacking you or overly defensive, but I am just letting everyone know that I did my homework and I know what I am getting in to. This is some very good information and should be a major factor to anyone starting. I was very picky and really think I could not have done much better for the price that I paid on this bike.

And I have had warnings from everyone already about wearing the gear all the time and even a threat of divorce from my wife if she even sees me sitting on the bike without my helmet on. I take every one of them seriously and will definitely be careful.
Thanks!
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:10 PM   #18
Tylenol Jones
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You will love a bike, but not a $1000 bike.
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:10 AM   #19
Zeeper
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I have owned many older bikes (my first ones were the early 80's Honda V4's and my current bike is now "technically" an older bike, a 1999 ZRX1100. There is nothing wrong with buying a $1,000 bike, any more than there would be in buying an 8 year old WRX instead of a new one -- you get what you can afford.

If you live in a city, a cheaper bike will be less of a target for theft as well.

A fuel injected bike is easier to maintain while it works, but not a do it yourself repair if something ****s the bed (certainly not as simple as a carbureted bike is to fix, if you know what you are doing).

I would never buy a leather jacket, only because i have one and never choose it over my nylon jackets (one summer vented with armor, the other is gore-tex and 3/4 length also with armor).

I had my crash test dummy experience wearing a 'flimsy' joe rocket mesh jacket with armor -- it was still intact and wearable (but had some mean road rash, that I did not have) after a 50+ mph slide down the asphalt. I was also intact, which is why I am posting here.

My accident happened because someone else cut me off and entered my lane (while I was in it). Keep in mind other drivers suck and ride accordingly, aka keep the rubber side down.

A Carbureted bike needs to be maintained, and occasionally the carbs cleaned, but otherwise will run just as long as a fuel injected bike will.

There is nothing extra special about a new bike vs an older bike though over time seals will need to be replaced (for example, the piston in the brake level or the fork seals) but they are not hazardous to ride. If I had the cash and they made the bike I want with ABS I would consider upgrading, but my ZRX is everything I want it to be and I've only had to pull and clean the carbs once in the last 7 years, so it isn't a problem maintenance wise.

The argument about gas savings is a bit weak. You spend more on the bike maintenance as far as tires (the don't last long) and all the other little things to maintain plus you have an additional vehicle to buy and insure and gear...

So buy it for the fun, justify it by saying it is to save gas, but you aren't going to save much money owning a bike.

As far as helmets the top selling helmets in the world are HJC and you can buy a decent helmet for under $150. I would not buy a used helmet, but am aware of testing that showed that the cheaper DOT helmets probably outperform the more expensive Snell in the initial impact tests which correlate more with the actual types of accidents people tend to have.

For oil changes everyone thinks they know best. I am lazy and run Shell Rotella-T synthetic 5w-30 and change it annually (I ride under 4,500 miles). My last valve job I inspected my cams and they are amazingly clean with no pitting or excessive wear -- my bike has no issues with oil or lubrication.
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