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Old 03-09-2011, 10:21 AM   #1
qoncept
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Default Lateral link material?

I've been toying with the idea of making some lateral links. I figured I'd need to use chromoly but it looks like a lot of aftermarket parts are aluminum. I'm trying to picture the kinds of forces they'd be under.. what would YOU use?
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:44 AM   #2
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Not trying to dissuade you, but MSI/TiC just did this in chromoly. What are you are shooting for here design wise?
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:03 PM   #3
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you dont have to use chromoly, use some 1"x.25" wall aluminum tap both ends for heim joints and done, then use a use some poly bushings and weld up the end that has the end link mounting point. Simple part to make.
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-man07 View Post
Not trying to dissuade you, but MSI/TiC just did this in chromoly. What are you are shooting for here design wise?
I'm honestly more interested in doing it than the end result, but the extra camber adjustment is what I'm really after. And I can't really see paying $600 for what TIGWERKS just described.

Thanks for the input guys.
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:57 PM   #5
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i would say go with some cromo and brake out the tig welder and go to town.
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:29 PM   #6
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Sounds good. Gonna do some calling around and see if I can find a local source. For bushings I'm going to buy some poly rod and turn them on a lathe.

Also thinking about brakes. There are some big calipers in junk yards for really cheap. I bought a 4-piston caliper for my Sequioa for $40. Anyone tried to make brackets to mount calipers with different mount points? Hopefully I still have the old caliper laying around to take some measurements.
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:15 PM   #7
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pleanty of people are using the fhi 4 pots off of the old nissan 300zx with custom brackets
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:20 PM   #8
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Just curious, are the 05+ STI lateral links solid or hollow aluminum?
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amuzzing View Post
Just curious, are the 05+ STI lateral links solid or hollow aluminum?
hollow. i don't remember the wall thickness though.

the ends are done as spuds and then friction welded in followed up by rosette welds. they really are nicely done.
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:12 AM   #10
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I was wondering if it would make sense to cut a piece out of these bars and add a threaded rod (w/ opposing threads) to make them adjustable. But I guess if the wall thickness is too thin, there's no point.
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:36 AM   #11
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http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=4567

In the above post he said that the front links are hollow and the rear links are solid.

Is 6061 good enough you think or should I go 2024?
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Old 04-05-2011, 04:08 PM   #12
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From speedwaymotors.com:

4ea- 91034134-12-ALU, 1" OD x 3/4-RH/LH thread aluminum tie rod sleeves $13.99ea.
4ea- 1750607, 3/4" shank/hole Pro-1 male RH thread rod ends $15.99ea.
4ea- 1750707, 3/4" shank/hole Pro-1 male LH thread rod ends $15.99ea.
4ea- 1756047-RH, 3/4" steel jam nuts $3.99/6pk
4ea- 1756047-LH, 3/4" steel jam nuts $3.99/6pk

You'd need to make bushings to reduce the 3/4" bore down to the bolt size and spacers to keep them centered in the subframe. Then you'd need to make a swaybar endlink attachment or use the trailing arm mount kit.


Jay
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:00 PM   #13
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I was looking into these:
http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=3223
anodized red with teflon bushings. Then 1" 6061 bars with tapped ends for them and lock washers and spacers. Looks like the rear spindle mount is a non sperherical so that would be different as well. Probably go hollow with the fronts like described in above post. Then figure something out with the endlink mounts.
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:33 AM   #14
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Here is the setup I am looking into making, check it out and let me know what you think. Definitely a lot cheaper then comparable setups and you get to make it yourself.

I am no way affiliated with any of the companies used below, just giving out some information I found.

4 -ATM-12_____________3/4-16 RHT 7075 Anodized Red Aluminum Rod End Teflon Lining_______________________________Midwest Control Products _______$18.36_______$73.44
4 -ATML-12___________ 3/4-16 LHT 7075 Anodized Red Aluminum Rod End Teflon Lining________________________________Midwest Control Products_______$20.97_______$83.88
4 -AHT12-15.00_______ 3/4-16 6061 Aluminum 1" Hexagon with RHT / LHT Tapped Ends (Cut 1-5/16" from each End)_____Midwest Control Products _______$11.35 _______$45.40
16 -MCW-12 __________3/4" Zinc Plated Steel Rod End Washer __________________________________________________ _____Midwest Control Products _______$1.71 _______$27.36
16 -RS750____________ 3/4" Rod End Rubber Boot______________________________________________ _____________________Midwest Control Products _______$1.66 _______$26.56
1 -99612A164_________ 3/4-16 x 27/64 Wide LHT Zinc Plated Jam Nut (Pack of 10)_____________________________________McMaster-Carr _________________$11.11 ______$11.11
1 -91847A555_________ 3/4-16 x 27/64 Wide RHT Zinc Plated Jam Nut (Pack of 20)_____________________________________McMaster-Carr ________________$8.09 ________$8.09
1 -1968T842__________ 3/4" OD 0.584" ID x 36" Long 2024 Aluminum Tube (Cut to 1.55" Long for each Rod End)_________McMaster-Carr _______________$33.48 _______$33.48
1-____________________ Poltec Endlink Boxes w/ endlinks__________________________________________ ____________________Poltec_______________________ $169.00 _____ $169.00

Total $478.32

Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 04-14-2011 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:42 AM   #15
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Im looking to increase my rear track width by about 10mm. would it be possible to just cut the OE steel endlinks, find a proper sized tube that could slip tightly over the original and make an extension sleeve?
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loomin View Post
Im looking to increase my rear track width by about 10mm. would it be possible to just cut the OE steel endlinks, find a proper sized tube that could slip tightly over the original and make an extension sleeve?
You could.....but it better be welded so it doesn't break apart.

Better options would be longer links, adjustable links, offset bushings or a combination of those.

Jay
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loomin View Post
Im looking to increase my rear track width by about 10mm. would it be possible to just cut the OE steel endlinks, find a proper sized tube that could slip tightly over the original and make an extension sleeve?
How are you planning on doing that? Having a hard time understanding why you'd need any change in links at all.
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:11 AM   #18
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You would have to put male and female threaded inserts like this:

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=208

in each end and then use a jack screw like this:

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=89

to adjust it with. But you have to make sure you don't compromise the original link when you weld in the bung.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:32 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
You could.....but it better be welded so it doesn't break apart.

Better options would be longer links, adjustable links, offset bushings or a combination of those.

Jay
Quote:
Originally Posted by qoncept View Post
How are you planning on doing that? Having a hard time understanding why you'd need any change in links at all.


well of course it would be welded.

I want to modify the links to increase track width. i want to increase track width because im running 17x9's on my GC wagon and im not entirely happy with the fitment on the rear. the fronts are very agressive looking but the rear is still sitting in. i pulled the **** out of the quarter panels with the intention of running a 17x9.5 or so but theres no way i can fit those on the front without adding flares etc.

i could just go buy the STI alu lateral links and be done with it but lets face it. im cheap, i have a TIG, and im bored. lol.


sorry for the aful pic but you get the idea. the red represents a tubular sleeve the green repesents welds, the black of course is the cut lateral link with a 10mm gap
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:56 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qoncept View Post
I've been toying with the idea of making some lateral links. I figured I'd need to use chromoly but it looks like a lot of aftermarket parts are aluminum. I'm trying to picture the kinds of forces they'd be under.. what would YOU use?
Pretty simple: it's a two-force member. Tension or compression. Unless you reach the angle limit of your ball ends, then you'd add a bending moment.

Reverse engineer the load capacity of the stock ones and design off of that.
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