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Old 03-11-2011, 12:12 PM   #1
island boyeee
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Default Oil keeps leaking from drain plug

This has been going on for over a year. I've tried the crush washers in both orientations, I've tried over-tightening the drain plug. No there aren't two washers on there.

None of this has been able to prevent a very slow drip from the drain plug. Is it possible I need a new plug? Only thing I could think is maybe the threads got stretched out a little... Nothing is stripped though, as I have cranked on that thing as I hard as I can until it wouldn't budge.

Just wondering if anyone else has this problem.
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Old 03-11-2011, 12:15 PM   #2
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wrap the drain plug threads with teflon tape?
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Old 03-11-2011, 12:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by island boyeee View Post
This has been going on for over a year. I've tried the crush washers in both orientations, I've tried over-tightening the drain plug. No there aren't two washers on there.

None of this has been able to prevent a very slow drip from the drain plug. Is it possible I need a new plug? Only thing I could think is maybe the threads got stretched out a little... Nothing is stripped though, as I have cranked on that thing as I hard as I can until it wouldn't budge.

Just wondering if anyone else has this problem.
This happened to me on my 05 LGT. In my case it turned out to be... I had never removed the stock O-ring, merely putting a new one on at oil changes like I always did, doubling them up and leaving a leaky seal.

Determined to find what was causing the leak, at about the third oil change I inspected the drain plug... on close inspection I could see there was an O-ring already on it, painted black like the plug, and stuck so tightly I had to use a knife to separate and remove it. New O-ring and leak was gone.

Next new Suby I was smarter and FIRST oil change I got that stock one out of there. It seems they paint the pan with the plug/O-ring installed, so the O-ring isn't really visible, and is sometimes seriously stuck on the plug.

I'd check this first... better than trying RTV or teflon tape, both of which I used until I found the root cause.
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Old 03-11-2011, 01:40 PM   #4
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I wasn't sure Teflon tape was ok for this application...



I'm glad you mentioned that, because every time I look at my drain plug I am convinced it's made of 2 different materials. I might have to look more closely next time, and actually see if there is a washer there I can pry of. If that is so, than that thing is SERIOUSLY crushed on there. Exact same diameter as the head of the bolt too. I may just buy a new bolt. Just did an oil change so I don't want to let it all run out.
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:28 PM   #5
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Do you have to the oil temp plug?
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:30 PM   #6
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^ no.
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:29 PM   #7
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This thing is awsome no more mess or burned hands http://fumotousa.com/
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:46 PM   #8
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i've heard of those things leaking too
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:59 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by boost4life View Post
This thing is awsome no more mess or burned hands http://fumotousa.com/
i have one too. its never dripped once in 3 years. also oil doesnt splash everywhere like taking out the stock drainplug.
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Old 03-11-2011, 08:52 PM   #10
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This thing is awsome no more mess or burned hands http://fumotousa.com/
is turning a wrench 1/4 a turn too much work?

putting that in the drain hole gives it the added thickness to the hole and traps more oil in the pan... if you want to remove as much old oil every oil change, don't put anything in the drain hole...
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Old 03-11-2011, 08:57 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by SeeeeeYa View Post
This happened to me on my 05 LGT. In my case it turned out to be... I had never removed the stock O-ring, merely putting a new one on at oil changes like I always did, doubling them up and leaving a leaky seal.
the stock crusher ring on mine is stuck to the bolt and was painted together. it is impossible to find it if you are not looking for it.

Last edited by dakrat; 03-12-2011 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:07 PM   #12
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Same here no problems

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Originally Posted by 424wrx View Post
i have one too. its never dripped once in 3 years. also oil doesnt splash everywhere like taking out the stock drainplug.
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:07 PM   #13
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+1 on the stuck washer. Mine has had the same issue when I bought it. Crush washer was plastered to the drain plug.
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:08 PM   #14
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Definitly check for the original crush washer. As already stated, the pans are assembled and then painted (epoxy paint I believe). So sometimes those washers are 1) really hard to tell they are not part of the bolt, and 2) a wicked pain to get off.

The pan bolt torque is 32ft/lbs. Make sure you either torque to spec or are VERY certain in your skills to eyeball it. Under and you won't properly crush the crush washer, too much and you risk striping the skimpy 3 threads that hold the plug.
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:10 PM   #15
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No it's not to hard , Have you seen one in person? If you did you'd think different, It's not holding that much oil back esp on the Subaru oil pan that narrows on the bottom.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat View Post
is turning a wrench 1/4 a turn too much work?

putting that in the drain hole gives it the added thickness to the hole and traps more oil in the pan... if you want to remove as much old oil every oil change, don't put anything in the drain hole...
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Old 03-11-2011, 11:41 PM   #16
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you must be running a really good synthetic......lol.......
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:19 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boost4life View Post
This thing is awsome no more mess or burned hands http://fumotousa.com/
I have one and I love it. A little bit of oil left over in the pan isn't going to hurt anything.

My father has these on all of his cars as well. I also had a few friends in college that had them on supras and other STi's.

None of them have ever leaked or come open on their own.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:55 AM   #18
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Notice how the pan narrows at the bottom, With about 2 threads protruding into the pan do you really thing it makes that much difference? Most oil change places drain oil for 30 seconds I drain mine for 20-30 mins.
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:25 PM   #19
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^ It's not that it protrudes into the pan as much as the Fumoto's hole is much smaller than the OEM plug and in the center.

Pre-06 pans hold ~180ml of oil after "fully" drained.

and

Post-06 pans holds ~80ml of oil after "fully" drained.

I would guess the Fumoto would add about another 100ml to that, but that's a guess.

Last edited by KillerBMotorsport; 03-12-2011 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 03-12-2011, 06:03 PM   #20
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100 ml is nothing compared to the amounts left in the motor after an oil change. Just my .02
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:29 PM   #21
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you can jack the car up on the passanger side.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetski247
you can jack the car up on the passanger side.
That way too involved for very little results in my opinion. Especially if you change your oil on a lift.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:43 PM   #23
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ok, you can use a vacuum pump like we use on jet skis. it'll get quite a bit out, better than draining, not sure how a baffle on the pan will hinder this but iv'e used it a couple times on my car and pulled the plug and no oil came out.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:47 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetski247
ok, you can use a vacuum pump like we use on jet skis. it'll get quite a bit out, better than draining, not sure if a baffle on the pan will hinder this but iv'e used it a couple times on my car and pulled the plug and no oil came out.
True, but every mechanic I have ever talked to about residual oil after oil changes has said it makes no difference. The motors were designed this way. So if you really want every drop out, with no results, than sure a vacuum pump or tilting your car is for you. Personally I'll just keep changing every 3k and call it good. Whatever puts your mind at ease though.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:48 PM   #25
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That way too involved for very little results in my opinion. Especially if you change your oil on a lift.
Yes, you'd have to tip the car at a rediculous angle. Just jacking from the passenger side makes little difference, if any.
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