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Old 03-16-2011, 06:34 PM   #1
stil2stock
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Default lug nut question

I'm just looking for some quick input (without the hellaflush, yo crowd chiming in). I'm looking to replace the rusty, worn OEM lugs that are on the STI and was wondering what others are using. I autocross regularly, with R-comps, so they need to hold up to abuse. I used mcgards on my old bugeye for several seasons and they held up great, but I'd rather not spend $100+ and was curious if anyone had other suggestions. I'm considering getting an open-ended lug since my plans are to eventually go to extended studs - but that wont happen on this season's budget, so it's not a requirement.

Someone also pointed these out - anyone tried them:
http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/th...C-Steel/Detail

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Old 03-16-2011, 07:26 PM   #2
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The only concern about open ended lugs is corrosion if it's a daily... but steel lugs with the appropriate conical seat to match your wheels will do fine. I use steel open ended ones on my track car - have for about a year and 10 events on R's.
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rokkit View Post
The only concern about open ended lugs is corrosion if it's a daily... but steel lugs with the appropriate conical seat to match your wheels will do fine. I use steel open ended ones on my track car - have for about a year and 10 events on R's.
hmmm...well, it is my DD too...
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stil2stock View Post
hmmm...well, it is my DD too...
I use open ended lugs on my DD and I'm in Syracuse for the winter. I just put some anti-seize on the studs when I put on my snow tires and they came off fine today. No corrosion at all.
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:47 PM   #5
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Any cheap chrome ones. When changing the wheels that often, it's relatively easy for the stud to gall up. The chrome is harder and will help prevent galling, or if not will help cut thru the galling. That's not to say you shouldn't change the studs afterwards, but you'll at least make it home.
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:50 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by CGMDan View Post
Any cheap chrome ones. When changing the wheels that often, it's relatively easy for the stud to gall up. The chrome is harder and will help prevent galling, or if not will help cut thru the galling. That's not to say you shouldn't change the studs afterwards, but you'll at least make it home.
gall?
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:25 PM   #7
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Wasnt sure how I was gonna like this but its not to bad, and for $40 shipped to my door off of eBay im not complaining.
Its not as deep a red in person...
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:50 PM   #8
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These Muteki lugs have actually worked pretty good for me. On and off the track. I had to buy new lugs because the key on the lock lugs i have broke. I was at my tuner at the time and they had these in black laying around. There steel not aluminum so im pretty confident.
I just linked the first thing google popped up on these i did not buy from this vender
http://www.nipponpower.com/product.phtml?p=1103
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:12 AM   #9
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stil2stock View Post
gall?
Galling: A condition whereby excessive friction between high spots results in localized welding with subsequent splitting and a further roughening of rubbing surfaces of one or both of two mating parts.


Having the metal from the studs and/or lugnuts start stripping and get gunked up in the threads, effectively seizing the lugnut on the stud. Sometimes with a powerfull impact gun you can power thru it, but quite often you need to get a breaker bar and snap off the stud.
After a couple years of tracking and autoxing my car with no issues, I had 3 lugs gall up at the same time. 2 on one wheel and 1 on another. after trying several things, we ended up having to snap off the studs.
Since then I've switched to chrome nuts and haven't had any issues.
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGMDan View Post
Having the metal from the studs and/or lugnuts start stripping and get gunked up in the threads, effectively seizing the lugnut on the stud. Sometimes with a powerfull impact gun you can power thru it, but quite often you need to get a breaker bar and snap off the stud.
This is also a problem with any aluminum lug nuts OP might be considering. Aluminum + steel do not mix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stil2stock View Post
I'm just looking for some quick input (without the hellaflush, yo crowd chiming in).
And you're a toolbag.
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:40 AM   #12
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^I guess that means you're hellaflush, yo?

Those steel lugs you posted a link to would work perfectly, I have used something similar and never had issues. They'll be coming off and going on a lot so you want steel, aluminum will eventually strip. No sense in getting a fancy colored finish either, they'll look like crap in no time.
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:49 AM   #13
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And you're a toolbag.
Annnnddd here they are... even though they weren't invited. Go back to the wheel forum mr 18x9.5 +19 245's.
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:54 AM   #14
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If you're planning to go to longer studs, and you're tracking, I highly recommend the Muteki SR48 lugs. I've been using them for years on my track car. I take the wheels off and on a lot (probably 100+ times since I've had the lugs), and I've never had an issue. The long length makes them much easier to get to on wheels with a very recessed lug hole. And the nice thing is they cover most of the extended stud, so they offer a little more protection from the elements. If you keep a close eye on the classifieds and eBay, you can find a set for <$70.
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:00 AM   #15
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Is there any lugs that have the little swivel on the bottom like the kics or macgards that are open ended and not $220?
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:12 AM   #16
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nevr-seize the bejeebus out of the wheel studs, and galling/corrosion is history no matter what kinda lugs you choose.
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rokkit View Post
Annnnddd here they are... even though they weren't invited. Go back to the wheel forum mr 18x9.5 +19 245's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by boost junkie View Post
^I guess that means you're hellaflush, yo?

Those steel lugs you posted a link to would work perfectly, I have used something similar and never had issues. They'll be coming off and going on a lot so you want steel, aluminum will eventually strip. No sense in getting a fancy colored finish either, they'll look like crap in no time.
Wow. Way to show maturity guys.

My personal styling preferences have absolutely 0 bearing on my automotive knowledge. Sorry, didn't realize that meant I couldn't help the kiddies who have questions. You don't know where I work, or what I do for a living. Rokkit, maybe you should stick to driving around cones in the parking lots .

And by the way, the toolbag came to the MOTORSPORTS forum instead of the WHEEL AND TIRE forum. Not only will aluminum strip easier, but they will FUSE to the steel studs after extended high temp exposure (same reason I time-serted my brembos).

Last edited by sc00by4life; 03-17-2011 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
Wow. Way to show maturity guys.


And by the way, the toolbag came to the MOTORSPORTS forum instead of the WHEEL AND TIRE forum.
The toolbag, me, came to the motorsports forum bcs I was specifically looking for the opinions of racers, and racers only - hence my comment about why I came to the MOTORSPORTS forum instead of the WHEEL AND TIRE forum - to avoid people that only care about fads/aesthetics.

Seems like a legit reason to me :shrug: You could have just given your advice (which I appreciate, thank you) without getting your panties in a wad over my [rather benign] comment.

Thanks to those with constructive input.
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadsled124 View Post
These Muteki lugs have actually worked pretty good for me. On and off the track. I had to buy new lugs because the key on the lock lugs i have broke. I was at my tuner at the time and they had these in black laying around. There steel not aluminum so im pretty confident.
I just linked the first thing google popped up on these i did not buy from this vender
http://www.nipponpower.com/product.phtml?p=1103
Any problems with the Muteki lug key? I usually use a cordless impact for quick on-and-off at autox, and I've heard others with keys breaking.
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantsti View Post
Is there any lugs that have the little swivel on the bottom like the kics or macgards that are open ended and not $220?
Besides the McGards, not that I know of. You don't need it. IMO. Honestly, on a track car, I'd rather not have it. Just one more little thing to possibly fail.
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:39 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
Wow. Way to show maturity guys.
Hold on!! you were the first person to come in and call names. You called the guy a toolbag for no reason

I'd run open steel nuts on my DD for years without issue.
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:23 AM   #22
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I've been using Gorilla acorn style lug nuts from Summit Racing (they still fit a 19mm hex socket which is convenient). The finish doesn't last too well but I've never had a problem with the threads, unlike the OE nuts. They are long enough to fit 50mm NISMO studs.
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:11 AM   #23
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I use the lug nuts in the OP's link. Basic cheap 17mm nut. You can (obviously) use a smaller socket with the 17mm vs a 19mm, so there is less chance of damaging a wheel. You also don't have to deal with keys or special sockets.
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:50 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
Wow. Way to show maturity guys.

My personal styling preferences have absolutely 0 bearing on my automotive knowledge. Sorry, didn't realize that meant I couldn't help the kiddies who have questions. You don't know where I work, or what I do for a living.

yet, you couldn't come into this thread and just give that opinion, could you? you HAD to insult the guy, for no reason, eh?



Quote:
Originally Posted by mav1c View Post
If you're planning to go to longer studs, and you're tracking, I highly recommend the Muteki SR48 lugs. I've been using them for years on my track car. I take the wheels off and on a lot (probably 100+ times since I've had the lugs), and I've never had an issue. The long length makes them much easier to get to on wheels with a very recessed lug hole. And the nice thing is they cover most of the extended stud, so they offer a little more protection from the elements. If you keep a close eye on the classifieds and eBay, you can find a set for <$70.

glad to hear it, I just got these for the rally car, hopefully they'll work out. Certainly a good price.
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:42 PM   #25
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I have the Mcguard spline drives, which are like the ones stated above: a spinning seat on the bottom. They're steel so they're quite strong. I've had several track days on them and the black finish is holding up just fine. Only weakness is the key, which is very light and feels like it could break anytime.



http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merch..._Code=MCG84236

I might just get those lugs in the original post but the seat area looks so small
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