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Old 11-07-2011, 11:21 AM   #351
darkantz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach V Dan View Post
Sounds good to me.


I don't think I've seen anyone run 265/35R18 with no rolling on a lowered car, without any contact. Maybe mount the 265's on the wheels you have to see how they're going to fit?

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Thank you, Dan
Data below seems to fit ok? Or maybe like you said I just need to find one used tire to test fit.

Tire size: 245/40-18 265/35-18
Section width: 245 mm (9.6'') 265 mm (10.4'')
Sidewall: 98 mm (3.9'') 93 mm (3.7'')
Tire diameter: 653 mm (25.7'') 643 mm (25.3'')10 mm (1.5%)shorter.
Rim sizes: 18x7 to 18x9 18x8 to 18x10
Circumference: 2050 mm (80.7'') 2019 mm (79.5'')

Suspension clearance:Package 2 is 10 mm (0.4'') closer to suspension/brakes components. Acceptable for most cars.

Fenders clearance:Package 2 will stick out 10 mm (0.4'') farther. Acceptable for most cars.

Wheelwells clearance:100% clear (leaves even more room than OEM)
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:45 PM   #352
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Originally Posted by darkantz View Post
Thank you, Dan
Data below seems to fit ok?
We're not talking about "most cars," we're talking about this specific car. Until you can find someone who has tried it, assume you MIGHT have to roll the rear fenders a little.

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Old 11-07-2011, 02:58 PM   #353
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Dan, this is a great thread but I'm a hard time finding an answer to a probably simple question. I'm trying to run my old snows on my 2011 WRX, which are 215/45/17s... I found a great set of EV5s cheap but they're 17x7 with a +45 offset. I was told anywhere between a 48-55 offset should be no issue but what would I be looking at for fitment with these wheels? My car is bone stock suspension wise. I'm sorry I'm just clueless about the whole offset thing LOL.
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:09 PM   #354
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you'll be fine junior.
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:19 PM   #355
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thanks guys. i figured as much but the last thing i want to do is order something then be stuck with them... any idea with a 17x7.5 and +45 where they might sit in relation to being flush ? I could care less as long as they're close.

Last edited by rkjunior; 11-07-2011 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:58 PM   #356
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Curious about a set of xxr 527s in 18x9.75 +20 on a 2011 sti with stock suspension. What I mean is will they fit without any modification?
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:54 PM   #357
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if you plan to run a tire larger than a 225/40, plan on a roll and pull depending on ride height.

I'll leave my opinion aside regarding buying those wheels when you have a $40k car, but stock suspension is not adequate for fitments that aggressive. .
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:09 PM   #358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkjunior View Post
thanks guys. i figured as much but the last thing i want to do is order something then be stuck with them... any idea with a 17x7.5 and +45 where they might sit in relation to being flush ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpongeBobSquarePants View Post
Curious about a set of xxr 527s in 18x9.75 +20 on a 2011 sti with stock suspension. What I mean is will they fit without any modification?
Arrrgh! Math, people! It's fundamental!

Junior: The stock STI wheel (as a benchmark) is +55 and 8.5" wide. Your 17x7.5" wheel is +45. That means the center of the wheel will be 10mm closer to the outside of the car, but the wheel is narrower by 1", or 25.4mm. So the outer edge of the wheel will be further from the outside of the car by half that, or 12.7mm. So, +10mm - 12.7mm = -2.7mm. The outside edge of the wheel will be sunken in about 3mm more than the stock STI wheel. This fitment is conservative and would be good for a winter tire setup.

SBSP: Your wheels are +20, or 35mm closer to the outside of the car at their centerlines, compared to the OEM STI wheel. But they're also 9.75" wide, so that's another 16mm closer to the outside of the car. The outer edge of the wheel will be about 60mm (2.4") further out than the stock STI wheel. That's going to be WAY outside the fenders. The wheels will not hit anything, but whatever tires you run will hit the fenders unless they are really skinny. This fitment is, in my humble opinion, ridiculous.

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Old 11-08-2011, 09:58 PM   #359
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Default Math IS fundamental, it really is :)

Dan, I just wanted to echo other sentiments here and thank you for your contributions to this thread. The information you provide is invaluable. Having said that, up until your recent "Math is fundamental post" I too was having a tough time figuring out what to do myself.

Full disclosure, I have a 2011 STi 5 door and would like to go with as aggressive of a concave wheel as possible (strictly for looks obviously ). The problem is that obviously requires an aggressive fitment in kind. Using your example above I put together an Excel Worksheet to help with the calculations which I've pasted below. Sorry in advance for the crazy formatting, the periods helped maintain the fixed width to make it easier to follow.

Here is the output:

Name...........|.Dia..|.Width.|.Off..|.Off..Diff.| .Width.Mod.|.Shift...
--------------.|.----.|.-----.|.----.|.---------.|.---------.|.--------
Stock..........|.18...|.8.5...|.55...|...........| ...........|.........
Winter.Setup...|.17...|.7.5...|.45...|.10.mm.....| .12.70.mm..|.-2.70.mm
SA-67R.(F:F)...|.18...|.8.....|.45...|.10.mm.....|..6 .35.mm..|..3.65.mm
SA-67R.(F:R)...|.18...|.9.....|.36...|.19.mm.....|.-6.35.mm..|.25.35.mm
SA-67R.(F:RR)..|.18...|.10....|.35...|.20.mm.....|-19.05.mm..|.39.05.mm
SA-67R.(F:F)...|.19...|.8.....|.45...|.10.mm.....|..6 .35.mm..|..3.65.mm
SA-67R.(F:R)...|.19...|.9.....|.35...|.20.mm.....|.-6.35.mm..|.26.35.mm
SA-67R.(F:R)...|.19...|.10....|.42...|.13.mm.....|-19.05.mm..|.32.05.mm
SA-55M.(F:FF)..|.18...|.8.....|.45...|.10.mm.....|..6 .35.mm..|..3.65.mm
SA-55M.(F:FR)..|.18...|.9.....|.36...|.19.mm.....|.-6.35.mm..|.25.35.mm
SA-55M.(F:RR)..|.18...|.10....|.36...|.19.mm.....|-19.05.mm..|.38.05.mm
SA-55M.(F:F)...|.19...|.8.....|.42...|.13.mm.....|..6 .35.mm..|..6.65.mm
SA-55M.(F:F)...|.19...|.9.....|.45...|.10.mm.....|.-6.35.mm..|.16.35.mm
SA-55M.(F:R)...|.19...|.10....|.40...|.15.mm.....|-19.05.mm..|.34.05.mm

In analyzing the above, I see that anything with an extra concave face is a 10 inch wheel which will move the wheel out, if my math is correct, *at least* 1.5 inches. Based on what I've read in your previous posts that is borderline crazy and probably not recommended, right?

So, I guess my question is could I get by with a net shift of 25mm which would allow me to go with a 265 on 19x9 +35 or an 18x9 +36 or even a 19x10 +40 (net shift of 34mm)? I know that last one might be a stretch.

Additional info: I'd like to get some RCE Yellows at some point and I've got no problem with a roll but I'd like to avoid a pull.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I thought it might be useful for others to see some more comparisons utilizing the math.

Last edited by azweepay; 11-08-2011 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 11-09-2011, 12:19 AM   #360
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Dan - thanks for explaining it. Now I understand!
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:10 AM   #361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach V Dan


SBSP: Your wheels are +20, or 35mm closer to the outside of the car at their centerlines, compared to the OEM STI wheel. But they're also 9.75" wide, so that's another 16mm closer to the outside of the car. The outer edge of the wheel will be about 60mm (2.4") further out than the stock STI wheel. That's going to be WAY outside the fenders. The wheels will not hit anything, but whatever tires you run will hit the fenders unless they are really skinny. This fitment is, in my humble opinion, ridiculous.

--Dan
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thanks for the info. Much appreciated. So what size/offset wheels would you recommend? I do want it to look good without sticking out
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:36 AM   #362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azweepay View Post
Dan, I just wanted to echo other sentiments here and thank you for your contributions to this thread.
Thanks.

Quote:
Here is the output:

<snip>
Good work there. Be careful to label your numbers -- your right-most column is where the edge of the new wheel is going to be relative to the edge of the old wheel, right?

Also keep in mind that many "concave" profile wheels will NOT clear STI Brembo brakes, and will need a spacer. I don't know about the specific wheels on your chart...

Quote:
In analyzing the above, I see that anything with an extra concave face is a 10 inch wheel which will move the wheel out, if my math is correct, *at least* 1.5 inches. Based on what I've read in your previous posts that is borderline crazy and probably not recommended, right?
Yes. For not having to damage or pull the fenders, I'd look to have the outer edge of the new wheel within 30mm of the outer edge of that benchmark 18x8.5" STI wheel.

Quote:
So, I guess my question is could I get by with a net shift of 25mm which would allow me to go with a 265 on 19x9 +35 or an 18x9 +36 or even a 19x10 +40 (net shift of 34mm)? I know that last one might be a stretch.
That last one is pushing it, but yes, those are all pretty close.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpongeBobSquarePants View Post
thanks for the info. Much appreciated. So what size/offset wheels would you recommend? I do want it to look good without sticking out
Go back through this entire thread and look at the photos and the attached numbers. There are plenty of examples of both sticking-out and non-sticking-out wheels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach V Dan View Post
Arrrgh! Math, people! It's fundamental!

...

SBSP: Your wheels are +20, or 35mm closer to the outside of the car at their centerlines, compared to the OEM STI wheel. But they're also 9.75" wide, so that's another 16mm closer to the outside of the car. The outer edge of the wheel will be about 60mm (2.4") further out than the stock STI wheel.
Okay, so I'm a little bone-headed. 35mm + 16mm is 51mm, not 60mm. 51mm is still a lot, though.

--Dan
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Old 11-12-2011, 01:31 PM   #363
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Looking at getting a set of Rota Grids this spring. Currently on stock suspension, maybe lowering with springs by 1.5". Wheels are 18x8.5 Rota Grid - (5x100/e44/56.1) Anyone know if I would have any rubbing issues, and also how close this would sit to the fenders on the outside? I want a reasonably flush look, but it doesn't need to be crazy. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:30 PM   #364
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Originally Posted by XsoberX
Looking at getting a set of Rota Grids this spring. Currently on stock suspension, maybe lowering with springs by 1.5". Wheels are 18x8.5 Rota Grid - (5x100/e44/56.1) Anyone know if I would have any rubbing issues, and also how close this would sit to the fenders on the outside? I want a reasonably flush look, but it doesn't need to be crazy. Any suggestions?
Ummm read the thread....
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:22 AM   #365
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SO dan what if the stock wrx wheel (as a benchmark) is +53 and 8" wide? How would the 17x7.5 wheel math play out?Thanks Dan!~~~~~The stock STI wheel (as a benchmark) is +55 and 8.5" wide. Your 17x7.5" wheel is +45. That means the center of the wheel will be 10mm closer to the outside of the car, but the wheel is narrower by 1", or 25.4mm. So the outer edge of the wheel will be further from the outside of the car by half that, or 12.7mm. So, +10mm - 12.7mm = -2.7mm. The outside edge of the wheel will be sunken in about 3mm more than the stock STI wheel. This fitment is conservative and would be good for a winter tire setup.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:25 AM   #366
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SO dan what if the stock wrx wheel (as a benchmark) is +53 and 8" wide? How would the 17x7.5 wheel math play out?
You need to be more specific. Are we talking about the same 17x7.5 +45 wheel as above?

You can do the math yourself. 1" = 25.4mm.

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Old 11-17-2011, 12:20 AM   #367
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Using an 18x9.5" +38 wheel, can a larger tire than a 245 fit on a 2011 without fender rolling? I am lowered about 1.25-1.5".

Last edited by dubster99; 11-17-2011 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 11-18-2011, 07:50 AM   #368
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^ If you read through the multiple pages on this thread it appears 265 (depending on which tire, not all are the same) is when you need to start rolling...but as said not all tires are the same so even if you go 245 or 255 you might need to...even more since you're lowered.
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Old 11-18-2011, 07:50 PM   #369
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Hey Dan,

First off, Great thread! Thanks for all the info so far. I have a few questions.

I have a '11 hatch and I really like how the first car you posted (white hatch) with 18x9.5 +38 and 265/35/18s looks.

With that exact setup, and some lowering springs, Epic Engineering/Eibach Pro-kit/Swift, would it require the front fender liner to be removed?

Would there be any rubbing issues with the fronts without removing the fender liner?

Also, I've read lots of great things about Swift springs. I know this is for wheel fitment but do you know if the Swift springs are good with stock shocks? I'm looking for a slight drop (similar to the white hatch) but to also retain as much of the comfort of the stock suspension. And if you know, what spring rates would be best to go with for Swift springs?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:35 PM   #370
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Originally Posted by sennett0r View Post
I have a '11 hatch and I really like how the first car you posted (white hatch) with 18x9.5 +38 and 265/35/18s looks.

With that exact setup, and some lowering springs, Epic Engineering/Eibach Pro-kit/Swift, would it require the front fender liner to be removed?
No.

Quote:
Would there be any rubbing issues with the fronts without removing the fender liner?
Probably not.

Quote:
...do you know if the Swift springs are good with stock shocks? I'm looking for a slight drop (similar to the white hatch) but to also retain as much of the comfort of the stock suspension. And if you know, what spring rates would be best to go with for Swift springs?
Swift springs generally are designed to be used with stock shocks. That's not to say it's an ideal setup -- lowering springs usually have higher rates than stock, and that'll mean that your shocks are under-damped for the lowering springs. Not ideal, but it'll still work.

I don't think you're going to have a rate choice on Swift lowering springs for your car. They only come in one rate so far. They may have a "Spec R" spring in the future. That's usually a higher-rate spring, and may not lower the car as much. It's intended more for performance and less for looks and ride.

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Old 11-18-2011, 10:50 PM   #371
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^ If you read through the multiple pages on this thread it appears 265 (depending on which tire, not all are the same) is when you need to start rolling...but as said not all tires are the same so even if you go 245 or 255 you might need to...even more since you're lowered.
I understand these concepts...but Dan has had in person experience with this setup on 245's...just wondering how close that was to the fender. I'll probably go 245 just to be safe, 10mm tire width isn't a huge deal...just wanted to know the likelihood of 255's rubbing.
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:54 PM   #372
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Plenty of people are running 275/40/17 and 295/35/17 hoosiers on the 2011 WRX with no fender mods, and only a 5mm adjustment in wheel offset. There is absolutely no reason that 255/40/17's should rub, unless you are hellaflushdumping your car.
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:59 AM   #373
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So i went from the stock 245/40/18 SP Sport 600 on 18x8.5E55 stock wheels to 225/45/18 Blizzak WS70 snows that are a bit stretched. The snows felt super spongy, which was expected but i just wasnt used to it. I just bought a set of TRMotorsports 18x9.5E45 wheels with 265/35/18 ZR101 and the feel is again completely different from even the stocks. I can feel grooves in the road more, which is i think called "tramlining"? It seems to steer itself based on road gradient and ruts in the road if i let it. Its also a stiffer steering feel, im guessing because of not only the wider contact patch, but the extra distance from the turning knuckle and the edge of the wheel. It doesnt feel bad, just different.

BTW, 9.5E45 is literally flush with the edge of the fender on the MY11/12 body

18x9.5 E45 TRMotorsports MT1
Dunlop Direzza DZ101 265/35/18
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Last edited by b1aze; 11-19-2011 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:08 PM   #374
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Hey Guys,

I have a 2011 WRX and am going to be purchasing winter tires this coming week. I am planning on getting 16inch tires and wheels, and will be skipping the TPMS monitors. (I can deal with the light on in my dash).

I know that my car will be fine with 16inch winter tires with steelies, but everywhere I call to ask about this tell me that it's also going to effect my speedometer.

Can anyone tell me how much my Speedometer is going to be effected with going down to a 16inch tire and wheel on my 2011 wrx.
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Old 11-20-2011, 04:02 PM   #375
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Originally Posted by mbg1725 View Post
Hey Guys,

I have a 2011 WRX and am going to be purchasing winter tires this coming week. I am planning on getting 16inch tires and wheels, and will be skipping the TPMS monitors. (I can deal with the light on in my dash).

I know that my car will be fine with 16inch winter tires with steelies, but everywhere I call to ask about this tell me that it's also going to effect my speedometer.

Can anyone tell me how much my Speedometer is going to be effected with going down to a 16inch tire and wheel on my 2011 wrx.
From what I know, it depends on the tire size.

So if you get a 205/55/16 or 215/55/16, the speedo should be almost of not the exact same.

If you go to 205/60/16, it will be off by ~4%.
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