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Old 11-21-2011, 12:03 PM   #376
Mach V Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbg1725 View Post
Can anyone tell me how much my Speedometer is going to be effected with going down to a 16inch tire and wheel on my 2011 wrx.
Yes. The tire calculator can.

--Dan
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Old 11-22-2011, 01:44 PM   #377
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You know I just asked some ppl last night for advice on buying rims and I was informed that 17x8.5 is the best rim size for performance.. what do you recommend, I own a 2011 wrx
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:06 PM   #378
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Hi Dan,

Kind of a unique question I suppose. I have a set of 225/45/17 blizzak lm 22's that I'm looking to run this winter. I came across an inexpensive set of 17x8.25 wheels just to run for the season. The offset is fairly low at 35mm. I'm wondering if seeing as it's a narrower tire will it clear the fender? I like the idea of the wheel being out a little bit more but not necessarily "flush". I'm lowered on Rallitek springs which I've been told are rebadged swift's. Obviously I could mount them on my oem wheels, but I'd like to keep my stock wheels/tires mounted so that it's an easy bolt on/off transisition in the spring.

Last edited by slates74; 11-22-2011 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:08 AM   #379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DurtyB

Ummm read the thread....
Not helpful. Did that, doesn't help if the info isn't in the thread. Thanks though.
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Old 11-25-2011, 01:30 AM   #380
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Originally Posted by XsoberX

Not helpful. Did that, doesn't help if the info isn't in the thread. Thanks though.
Using logic, from the information posted in this thread including relation to the stock sti set up (18x8.5 +53) you should be able to determine what amount of modification it will take to fit. The information is in this thread, you just need to put it together.

But since you are so dense...

A 245/35, 245/40, or 255/35 would be acceptable including many more. That will not be a "flush" setup, you bought the wrong wheels for that.
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Old 11-26-2011, 03:10 AM   #381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life

Using logic, from the information posted in this thread including relation to the stock sti set up (18x8.5 +53) you should be able to determine what amount of modification it will take to fit. The information is in this thread, you just need to put it together.

But since you are so dense...

A 245/35, 245/40, or 255/35 would be acceptable including many more. That will not be a "flush" setup, you bought the wrong wheels for that.
Well, since we're being rude... I didn't buy these wheels, as I stated I'm thinking of buying them. Only an idiot would literally not even read the posts they are bashing. But thanks! Now I know. Also, my mistake for assuming the sti and wrx wheels are different. Which they are.
Oh well, I know now.
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:59 AM   #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XsoberX

Well, since we're being rude... I didn't buy these wheels, as I stated I'm thinking of buying them. Only an idiot would literally not even read the posts they are bashing. But thanks! Now I know. Also, my mistake for assuming the sti and wrx wheels are different. Which they are.
Oh well, I know now.
There is more than enough info in this thread for you to logically sum together and answer. Sorry you couldn't figure out even basic math.

If the wheels you are looking at are a very similar size to the sti wheels, it's pretty logical to assume they would fit. Since they fit the sti. And the wheel clearance is the exact same on both cars.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:19 PM   #383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slates74 View Post
Hi Dan,

Kind of a unique question I suppose. I have a set of 225/45/17 blizzak lm 22's that I'm looking to run this winter. I came across an inexpensive set of 17x8.25 wheels just to run for the season. The offset is fairly low at 35mm. I'm wondering if seeing as it's a narrower tire will it clear the fender? I like the idea of the wheel being out a little bit more but not necessarily "flush". I'm lowered on Rallitek springs which I've been told are rebadged swift's. Obviously I could mount them on my oem wheels, but I'd like to keep my stock wheels/tires mounted so that it's an easy bolt on/off transisition in the spring.
Bump, any input on this guys? Hoping to mount the snows soon
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:20 PM   #384
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Just wanted to post my latest wheel/tire set-up.

O.Z. F1 Cups
18x9
+46mm
255/40/15
No roll, pull. etc.
Sit flush with edge when looking down from the top of the fenders front and rear.

Stock suspension on my 11 Sti and no rubbing. This is with 2 people in car.
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:39 PM   #385
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Alright, got my fire extinguisher ready - lets do this. After about a year of trying to decide on a wheel style I want I decided to go with (brace yourselves) Rota Torques. I know, I'd love to be cool and get the Works but its just not in my budget. I wanna go 18x9.5 on my '11 DGM Sedan. I have a couple offset options. I already know I'll have to roll the fenders and I know to go with the larger offset available. My question: With a roll, stock suspension, and slimmer (not stretched) tires - will a +35 offset work? Or will that still be too low? I know in the OP the sti's fitted with Rota's we're using +38 & +40...
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:13 PM   #386
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So the consensus is that 18x9.5 et40 with your run of the mill 265/35/18 will fit on a 2011 with stock everything with no rubbing, however I think a member here who just purchased this setup (a set of Miro 111's from Imprezivhokie) has rubbing in the rear. I was considering the exact setup however do not want to roll my fenders whatsoever. Would changing to a 255/35 prevent any rubbing, or should I just investigate a shorter 265/35?

Last edited by dvrmstrng; 12-04-2011 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 12-04-2011, 11:30 PM   #387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slates74 View Post
Bump, any input on this guys? Hoping to mount the snows soon
The 225's should fit easily, even at +35.

Quote:
Originally Posted by doubleUareX2011 View Post
My question: With a roll, stock suspension, and slimmer (not stretched) tires - will a +35 offset work? Or will that still be too low? I know in the OP the sti's fitted with Rota's we're using +38 & +40...
265 or fatter will not fit well. 255/40R18 will be a better fit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvrmstrng View Post
Would changing to a 255/35 prevent any rubbing, or should I just investigate a shorter 265/35?
Just like above, the 255 is the safer choice. Consider rolling before swapping tires, though. Note too that 255/40R18 is also an option, and you may find more tire options in that size.

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Old 12-05-2011, 08:03 AM   #388
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hmmm...i posted another thread in the wheel/tire section and another person with 9.5's et40 with a 265 on stock suspension said there is rubbing.

Maybe I am better off finding a wheel that looks similar with a better offset.



any ideas? I like the concave face...i wish I could find a 18x8.5 et40 and do a 265/35
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:37 AM   #389
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Originally Posted by dvrmstrng View Post
i wish I could find a 18x8.5 et40 and do a 265/35
You realize the 265 describes the width of the tread, right? It doesn't matter much what wheel width you have -- the same tread width at the same offset is going to fit the same. (The exception is that the sidewall will change a little depending on the wheel width. But we're talking 1-2mm.)

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Old 12-05-2011, 10:00 AM   #390
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^^ yeah I think I meant to type something else up there.. like et45-50.

So would putting a 255/35 on a 18x9.5 et40 really prevent having to roll the fenders but the <2% change going to a 265/35 would require a roll?
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:40 PM   #391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach V Dan View Post
You realize the 265 describes the width of the tread, right? It doesn't matter much what wheel width you have -- the same tread width at the same offset is going to fit the same. (The exception is that the sidewall will change a little depending on the wheel width. But we're talking 1-2mm.)

--Dan
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Sorry to disagree with ya Dan, but when I learned this it was section width, not tread width.

Seems it still is...

From Tirerack.com
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=7


Most modern passenger car and light truck tires feature size designations that indicate the tire's dimensions in a combination of metric, mathematical and English systems. While this unusual combination of millimeters, percentages and inches is a byproduct of the evolution of global tire specifications, it also provides the ability to calculate/estimate basic tire dimensions.

Example size: 225/45R17
The first three numbers in a typical size (225/45R17) are the tire's indicated section width in millimeters, measured from sidewall to sidewall.
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:45 PM   #392
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Sorry to disagree with ya Dan, but when I learned this it was section width, not tread width.
No problem. My point is that TIRE width varies little with wheel width, since the TREAD width does not change. It's a trapezoid with the tread on one side (fixed), the sidewalls as the slanted parts of the trapezoid, and the wheel as the other long side of the trapezoid. Changing the wheel width by an inch might change the section width by...maybe 0.1", or 2.5mm in total, and half that at the outer edge of the tire, where we are worrying about fender clearance.

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Old 12-05-2011, 06:48 PM   #393
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Originally Posted by Mach V Dan View Post
No problem. My point is that TIRE width varies little with wheel width, since the TREAD width does not change. It's a trapezoid with the tread on one side (fixed), the sidewalls as the slanted parts of the trapezoid, and the wheel as the other long side of the trapezoid. Changing the wheel width by an inch might change the section width by...maybe 0.1", or 2.5mm in total, and half that at the outer edge of the tire, where we are worrying about fender clearance.

--Dan
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I agree with ya 100% there.

If one was to look at the link I put up, you can find those #s


Actual Tire Section Width is Dependent on Wheel Width

All tire sizes are assigned specific rim widths upon which they are measured (measuring rim), as well as can often be mounted on slightly narrower or wider wheels (rim width range). Therefore, it is important to note that actual tire section width will depend on the wheel width the tire is mounted on. The rule of thumb is that tire section width changes by 0.2" for every 0.5" change in rim width, being reduced if mounted on narrower then measuring wheel and increased when mounted on wider wheels.

Great info Dan, thanks for all your work and wisdom in this thread!
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:42 AM   #394
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i've had this thread in my favorites sidebar for a while, haha.

with OE STI 245/40 18 tire...

what is the maximum mm wheel bump outward that affords a complete guarantee of NO fender contact? 1" lowering springs, stock alignment.

think as if spacers were being added to the OE 18x8.5 +55 wheels...

would an add'l poke of 25mm rub?

thanks
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:59 AM   #395
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Dan this thread is great. I see a lot of 18x9.5 questions but what about us that want a 18x8.5 on stock WRX suspension. Since a lot of after market 5x100 wheels have an offset of +45, do you think we can go with a 245/40/18 or a 255/40/18?
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Old 12-08-2011, 01:20 AM   #396
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Originally Posted by builthatch View Post
what is the maximum mm wheel bump outward that affords a complete guarantee of NO fender contact? 1" lowering springs, stock alignment.
Figure this out using the info above, plus math.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxllplayallxx View Post
Since a lot of after market 5x100 wheels have an offset of +45, do you think we can go with a 245/40/18 or a 255/40/18?
Yes.

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Old 12-08-2011, 02:24 AM   #397
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Originally Posted by Mach V Dan View Post
Figure this out using the info above, plus math.
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before i bothered to make that post, using not only info here but elsewhere too...my MATH came out to ~20mm, safely, especially in the rear. again this was based on the various fitments posted throughout the internet in similar threads to this. however, lowering an inch and maintaining OE camber settings with stock tires are all variables that can come into play when you are talking about the difference between 5mm, specifically, 25mm vs. 20mm.

i figured you might have the experience to bring some higher resolution to those sensitive 5mm in question. sorry for asking, sheesh.
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Old 12-08-2011, 04:59 AM   #398
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Originally Posted by builthatch

before i bothered to make that post, using not only info here but elsewhere too...my MATH came out to ~20mm, safely, especially in the rear. again this was based on the various fitments posted throughout the internet in similar threads to this. however, lowering an inch and maintaining OE camber settings with stock tires are all variables that can come into play when you are talking about the difference between 5mm, specifically, 25mm vs. 20mm.

i figured you might have the experience to bring some higher resolution to those sensitive 5mm in question. sorry for asking, sheesh.
Your question has too many variables. Exactly WHAT tires, since not all are equal. Do you plan to go wider in the future?

Say... 20 mm spacers, that puts the face of the wheel in the same position as a 9.5" +44 (actually it will sit 2mm inset from that). That's right on the verge of rolling territory if you are lowered.

Reading through the GR thread in members gallery, it appears you can safely get away with 20ish spacers, but that last 5 mm has too many variables. If you want to be safe, use 10 or 15's. When you want to try and get into the "flush" world, you'll need to play around with camber settings and stop thinking inside the box so much. Adjusting camber is very easy. Or just don't be scared of rolling. Or don't use spacers.

Keep in mind if you go with 20 or 25mm spacers you will need to replace all the studs if you ever change wheels or remove the spacers.

Last edited by sc00by4life; 12-08-2011 at 05:09 AM.
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Old 12-08-2011, 01:54 PM   #399
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Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
Your question has too many variables. Exactly WHAT tires, since not all are equal. Do you plan to go wider in the future?

Say... 20 mm spacers, that puts the face of the wheel in the same position as a 9.5" +44 (actually it will sit 2mm inset from that). That's right on the verge of rolling territory if you are lowered.

Reading through the GR thread in members gallery, it appears you can safely get away with 20ish spacers, but that last 5 mm has too many variables. If you want to be safe, use 10 or 15's. When you want to try and get into the "flush" world, you'll need to play around with camber settings and stop thinking inside the box so much. Adjusting camber is very easy. Or just don't be scared of rolling. Or don't use spacers.

Keep in mind if you go with 20 or 25mm spacers you will need to replace all the studs if you ever change wheels or remove the spacers.
thanks for this info - it jives with my research @ 20mm and i appreciate you taking the time.

i'm not necessarily trying to get them flush, but i am trying to widen the track slightly with the stock BBS wheels while using the the lightest tires for the job given the power i'll be putting down, so stock STI size should be ideal. however, as you mentioned, tires vary so i think even less than 20...like 15mm would give me ample buffer across the board.

i feel that OE camber settings are an ideal starting point and i would never adjust the camber to clear the fenders...and i'm not rolling the fenders. the risk is not worth it, since the "reward" is not such for me - i don't care enough about being flush or something. in fact i wouldn't even get the alignment done aggressively, period, because tire wear is a concern. i went down the rolling route with my mazda and it totally went against anything i'd normally do...and because of my particular nature, it caused a lot of hassle and heartache when the paint cracked. if this was a club race car or beater auto-x car...maybe, but not a brand new vehicle.

15mm seems like a great compromise between aesthetics and any SLIGHT handling trade-offs, which is why i think so many of the "safe" fitments fit within this range. i feel with a proper alignment and a slightly lower ride height damped properly it should be perfect for me.
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Old 12-08-2011, 02:02 PM   #400
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There will be significant handling trade offs when you use any spacer, period. The larger they are, the more pronounced it will be.

Rolling fenders is either very easy, or very cheap. There is little to no "risk" with rolling, and will be virtually indistinguishable from un rolled fenders.

Tire wear has far more to do with tire pressure and toe than camber, and could be set up more ideal for performance if that's what you desire.

Either way, have fun!
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