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Old 02-21-2013, 12:41 AM   #1601
mewob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
Look at this calculator, if you haven't already. http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
You are correct. I misspoke. I know I rolled the rears a little just for insurance. I didn't want them to rub under high G's on the track.
I believe the clearance was tightest towards the back and it was right on the verge of rubbing. I think you will have to roll a little. Perhaps not have to touch the whole lip, but rolling some in certain spots.
Sorry about the waffling. I'm getting old and senile...
Hey Scargod,
Thanks for the clarification and I appreciate the calculator, what a great tool. Have you got any pics of the wheels/tires on your wrx?
And don't worry about getting old, I'm on the other side of 50. The wrx is the most enjoyable car I've owned since my 67 Camaro in high school.
Cheers
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:08 AM   #1602
sc00by4life
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Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
Isn't there a point where a certain thickness of spacer is not recommended? Even if you use good studs, isn't there a point where the wheel has no real support and is hanging out there on the studs with only, or mostly, the clamping forces keeping it all together and aligned? .
Thats how wheels are held on.

The lip on the hub only serves to center the wheel on the mounting surface. It isn't even required to properly affix wheels to the car.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:09 AM   #1603
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Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
Thats how wheels are held on.
The lip on the hub only serves to center the wheel on the mounting surface. It isn't even required to properly affix wheels to the car.
That's not entirely true. I can't say for certain about all Subarus (since it's been so long since I've run a stock wheel), but I can think of many cars where the rim is a snug fit on the hub and that prevents the wheel from becoming off-center as long as one lug nut or bolt is holding.
What I refer to (and question), is wheels that are spaced out on longer studs and are reliant on the tightness of the assembly for not moving. When wheels are on a spacer and extended out on the studs there is a greater risk of them coming loose, moving and/or breaking. Think of it like holding a two inch long pencil between your fingers and trying to break it. Now, try that with a four inch long pencil. Much easier!
I don't like the thought of some setups that are out on long studs and then are run at the drag strip or other extreme situations, especially when you compound this with bigger tires and wheels. They have a longer moment arm and if they ever start coming loose and you don't have a metal on metal hub ring then you develop a cantilever effect. Perhaps you'll notice vibration before everything goes ka-boom.
Perhaps I'm a nervous Nellie, but back in the day, I had VW's I fooled with and I had wheels come loose. I know NHRA has or has had rules about spacers being illegal.
That being said, on my track car, I run my 255-17's on ARP studs without hub rings. I torque and re-check my nuts frequently. I've never had an issue.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:46 AM   #1604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
That's not entirely true. I can't say for certain about all Subarus (since it's been so long since I've run a stock wheel), but I can think of many cars where the rim is a snug fit on the hub and that prevents the wheel from becoming off-center as long as one lug nut or bolt is holding.
Stop. And listen. All the lip on hub does, is center the wheel on the mounting surface. It does NOTHING to support or hold the wheel.

Again - you don't even NEED the lip on the hub, because the wheel can center itself when properly torqued down.

It doesn't support the wheel, the wheel doesn't "rest" on it, it serves no other purpose.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:16 PM   #1605
Mach V Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
That's not entirely true. I can't say for certain about all Subarus (since it's been so long since I've run a stock wheel), but I can think of many cars where the rim is a snug fit on the hub and that prevents the wheel from becoming off-center as long as one lug nut or bolt is holding....
Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
Stop. And listen. All the lip on hub does, is center the wheel on the mounting surface. It does NOTHING to support or hold the wheel.
Please take this discussion to another thread. This thread is about wheel fitment for 2011+ WRX. We're getting pretty far from that here.

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Old 02-22-2013, 12:43 AM   #1606
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Anyone running 18x9.75 20's with a 235/40? I've done the measurements and can work with it. Would just love to see a pic. Thanks.
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:23 AM   #1607
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Originally Posted by NWsoobie View Post
Anyone running 18x9.75 20's with a 235/40? I've done the measurements and can work with it. Would just love to see a pic. Thanks.
a little googling helps. you'll need to be about 2" lower than this guy to pull it off.

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Old 02-22-2013, 01:34 AM   #1608
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Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post

a little googling helps. you'll need to be about 2" lower than this guy to pull it off.
Yah I saw that a min ago after going through a ton of google images. Doesn't look too bad. But the 235/40's look a little too meaty though. Ive found that Tyrestretch.com is a pretty good source to find images on tire stretch.
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:06 AM   #1609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWsoobie View Post
Anyone running 18x9.75 20's with a 235/40? I've done the measurements and can work with it. Would just love to see a pic. Thanks.
413785_10150557942857280_592507279_8836782_1975779975_o.jpg
But why?
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:56 AM   #1610
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Originally Posted by Scargod View Post

But why?
Looks good. Thanks man. This yours?
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:18 PM   #1611
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Originally Posted by NWsoobie View Post

Looks good. Thanks man. This yours?
235/40's too meaty on a 9.75" wheel? That's just gross, and not to mention extremely dangerous to run anything even that stretched, not to mention stretching even further. If you are DD this car, at least have some concern for fellow drivers on the road and their safety. If its a show car, go nuts :P haha
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:20 PM   #1612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Maher_WRX View Post

235/40's too meaty on a 9.75" wheel? That's just gross, and not to mention extremely dangerous to run anything even that stretched, not to mention stretching even further. If you are DD this car, at least have some concern for fellow drivers on the road and their safety. If its a show car, go nuts :P haha
Please stop. You obviously don't speak from experience. This isn't the thread for passing one's personal opinions as fact.
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:54 PM   #1613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Maher_WRX View Post

235/40's too meaty on a 9.75" wheel? That's just gross, and not to mention extremely dangerous to run anything even that stretched, not to mention stretching even further. If you are DD this car, at least have some concern for fellow drivers on the road and their safety. If its a show car, go nuts :P haha
A 235/40 isn't that stretched at all. That's roughly 12mm of stretch with the wheel coming in at 247mm. Wow. Thats real dangerous. What is 12mm anyways? 1/2 inch?
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:07 PM   #1614
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Originally Posted by NWsoobie View Post
A 235/40 isn't that stretched at all. That's roughly 12mm of stretch with the wheel coming in at 247mm. Wow. Thats real dangerous. What is 12mm anyways? 1/2 inch?
wheel widths are measured from the outter lip, not where the bead sits. rule of thumb is that a wheel's advertised is .5-1" narrower at the bead.

and yeah, a 235 is stretched on that wheel. stupid stretch? not the worst I've seen, but more than I would personally prefer.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:57 PM   #1615
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Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post

wheel widths are measured from the outter lip, not where the bead sits. rule of thumb is that a wheel's advertised is .5-1" narrower at the bead.
I thought wheels were measured in ID?
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:16 PM   #1616
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Originally Posted by NWsoobie View Post
I thought wheels were measured in ID?
They are. He has it backwards.

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Old 02-22-2013, 06:52 PM   #1617
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Originally Posted by NWsoobie View Post
I thought wheels were measured in ID?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlundy11 View Post
They are. He has it backwards.
ha. yep. derp.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:04 PM   #1618
synaZaur
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I'm in the process of ordering some custom made wheels from a company called forgestar... I can get any offset I like with the wheels I am running.

just wondering what offset I should order?

I'm either getting these wheels: http://www.forgestar.com/blog/?p=1732

or these wheels: http://www.forgestar.com/blog/?p=1592 - decided against these wheels in favor of the other ones

either way I believe the offset will be similar.

Any help with this would be great... since I can pick my offset I'd like it to be perfect so I have no issues

Final Edit - the car will be dropped sometime in the future, but it will only be a 1 inch drop across all wheels

EDIT: I'm considering wrapping them in either 265/35 or 245/40 rubber... any help on the best decision here would be awesome too. I do NOT want to have to roll fenders... so that's the end goal.

Last edited by synaZaur; 02-22-2013 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:11 AM   #1619
Mach V Dan
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Originally Posted by synaZaur View Post
I'm in the process of ordering some custom made wheels from a company called forgestar... I can get any offset I like with the wheels I am running.

just wondering what offset I should order?
So, 19x9.5"? For a good fit without rubbing much, running an appropriately-wide tire for that wheel? +44 would be good. For a more aggressive look, +40. (Why am I having to repeat this over and over?)

Quote:
I'm either getting these wheels: http://www.forgestar.com/blog/?p=1732

or these wheels: http://www.forgestar.com/blog/?p=1592 - decided against these wheels in favor of the other ones

either way I believe the offset will be similar.

Any help with this would be great... since I can pick my offset I'd like it to be perfect so I have no issues
Not sure what you mean by that, but I'm going to assume you don't want to have interference between the tires and fenders.

Quote:
Final Edit - the car will be dropped sometime in the future, but it will only be a 1 inch drop across all wheels

EDIT: I'm considering wrapping them in either 265/35 or 245/40 rubber...
You've got your tire sizes wrong. For a 19" wheel you want 265/30R19 or 245/35R19. A 245 is going to be pretty stretched on a 9.5" wheel. I'd go with at least the 265. Consider 275/30R19 as well.

Quote:
I do NOT want to have to roll fenders... so that's the end goal.
Unless you're going to go with the 245 tires, you're probably going to have to roll the rear fenders. As I've said in this thread many times, it's minor and invisible.

Please, please just spend a little time carefully reading through this thread. In the VERY FIRST POST there's a car with 19x9.5" wheels on it.

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Old 02-27-2013, 05:58 PM   #1620
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Bilstein struts, RCE Black springs.
Rear is at +5mm height and rolled fenders.
RPF1 wheels 18x9.5 +38, 245/40R18 Michelin Alpin PA4's (runs wide).

Last edited by flk; 02-27-2013 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:13 PM   #1621
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Originally Posted by flk View Post

Bilstein struts, RCE Black springs.
Rear is at +5mm and rolled fenders.
RPF1 wheels 18x9.5 +38, 245/40R18 Michelin Alpin PA4's (runs wide).
I have the same spec rpf1s on my 2011 and I fit 265 star specs. Which also run wide looks good though
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:11 PM   #1622
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I ordered 18x9.5 -38 Forgestar F14 with 245/40/18 Nitto NT05 - I will post pics and give you a fitment update when I get them in.

I might go with 265/35... not too sure.. I hear Nitto run wider and seeing flk's pics above I might actually stick with the 245. Just don't want the stretched look...
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:22 PM   #1623
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i highly doubt you're running a -38 offset .

I'm also assuming flk means he's using a 5mm spacer in the rear.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:16 PM   #1624
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^Sorry I meant +5mm on the circlip (ride height adjust on the Bilsteins). I don't use spacers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jordanc15 View Post
I have the same spec rpf1s on my 2011 and I fit 265 star specs. Which also run wide looks good though
Thanks! I would not be able to fit 265's properly unless I used even more neg camber in the R and pull the rear fenders. I want more neg. camber in the front. I have -1.8 F and -1.5 R. If I raise my rear to +10mm I will be able to run -1.2 R which is what I wanted in the beginning. Also, at my power level ~290/320 there was no need to go wider than 245. All detrimental effects and no benefit!
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:26 PM   #1625
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^Sorry I meant +5mm on the circlip (ride height adjust on the Bilsteins). I don't use spacers.

Thanks! I would not be able to fit 265's properly unless I used even more neg camber in the R and pull the rear fenders. I want more neg. camber in the front. I have -1.8 F and -1.5 R. If I raise my rear to +10mm I will be able to run -1.2 R which is what I wanted in the beginning. Also, at my power level ~290/320 there was no need to go wider than 245. All detrimental effects and no benefit!
Well... If you think going around turns faster is detrimental then I guess your right.
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