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Old 03-26-2011, 05:12 AM   #1
mrturtlehead
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Default Preparation for Stage 1

I know stage 1 is just a flash with the AP but is there anything I need to make sure of before I go ahead and flash the ecu? Compression test?
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Old 03-26-2011, 05:38 AM   #2
sc00by4life
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no, just do it and dont look back. hurry up and get a TBE to go stage 2.
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Old 03-26-2011, 07:28 AM   #3
beachscooby
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Make sure your battery is fully charged.
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:43 PM   #4
mrturtlehead
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Hahah okay sound like nothing.
Thanks
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:44 PM   #5
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Ensure you have filled all sheep bladders properly and shave your cat.
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:59 PM   #6
kx02wr
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check your oil before you start doing pulls down the road.
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Old 03-26-2011, 05:05 PM   #7
Maudlin
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Put smile on face.
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Old 03-26-2011, 05:16 PM   #8
leecea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beachscooby View Post
Make sure your battery is fully charged.
+1 to this.

And decide whether you're going to run a 91 octane or 93 octane map. Even though I use 93, I flashed the 91 octane map as a safety margin.
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Old 03-26-2011, 05:43 PM   #9
R L Newb
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There is tons of safety factor in the 93 map already, I wouldn't be worried about it. But ditto on the battery. I've had flashing issues in the past linked to a weak battery.
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:44 PM   #10
ouchx100
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Are you guys talking about the cars battery or the ap being charged?
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:50 PM   #11
Gallo2011
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Car's battery. Instructions from Cobb tell you to make sure the battery is fully charged. The flash takes all of about 6 minutes, including saving the stock map. You won't regret it.
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Old 03-26-2011, 07:05 PM   #12
ouchx100
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Oh ok. I'm getting my ap soon and going stage 1 and I didn't know that. I'm guessing that since I drive my car basically everyday I'll have no problems with the battery. I thought we were talking about charging the ap for a few hours before using it.. Which would suck because I can't wait to go stage 1 and use up whatever gas I've got in the car
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Old 03-26-2011, 07:17 PM   #13
Gallo2011
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The AP is just a paper weight when it's not plugged into something. It uses your computer's USB power when you plug it in to load maps and such. In the car, it uses your battery's power to download maps to the ECU.

If you're really worried about the reserve left in your battery, take it to a shop and have them test it really quickly. Usually free.
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Old 03-26-2011, 07:34 PM   #14
rymaggi
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Save your money. Don't get a ap. Get a dp and a protune. For the same price as an ap.
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Old 03-26-2011, 07:40 PM   #15
Gallo2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rymaggi View Post
Save your money. Don't get a ap. Get a dp and a protune. For the same price as an ap.
Rymaggi, let me ask you this. You live in Cali. What do you do when its time to get your car smogged? Are you catless? If so, do you just switch your DP out for the stock piece, smog it and go back to your aftermarket DP? I'm curious how people handle this. I don't think even a catted DP would pass smog, especially the visual.
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:08 PM   #16
rymaggi
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Yea. I ordered an adapter so my catless dp will fit on my stock exhaust. So when it comes time to smog I can switch it back to my original
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:40 AM   #17
Gallo2011
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Good idea. Eventually that's probably the way I'll go too.
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:39 AM   #18
mrturtlehead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leecea

+1 to this.

And decide whether you're going to run a 91 octane or 93 octane map. Even though I use 93, I flashed the 91 octane map as a safety margin.
I use 94 octane, would I still use 93 octane map?
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:52 AM   #19
leecea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrturtlehead View Post
I use 94 octane, would I still use 93 octane map?
The standard Cobb maps only come in 91 and 93 octane versions, so I guess you'd use the 93. If in doubt, contact Cobb.

I suppose gas must vary by region. In my area we have 92 and 93. I've never seen 91 or 94.
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:35 PM   #20
mrturtlehead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rymaggi
Save your money. Don't get a ap. Get a dp and a protune. For the same price as an ap.
I would like that but my tuner is still going to charge me 500$ for reflash, so I can't save money unfortunately.
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:53 PM   #21
Napalm3nema
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrturtlehead View Post
I would like that but my tuner is still going to charge me 500$ for reflash, so I can't save money unfortunately.
If he's doing that you don't need the Accessport. That's 600 saved right there.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:00 PM   #22
SWP n Gold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrturtlehead View Post
I would like that but my tuner is still going to charge me 500$ for reflash, so I can't save money unfortunately.
So it would be:

OpenSource tune: $500

AccessPort off-the-shelf map: $500

AccessPort custom tune: $1,000 ($500 tune plus cost of AccessPort)

The OpenSource situation is win-win; the most power for the least amount of money.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:11 PM   #23
dsmtweaker
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I think you just need to find a better tuner. 250-300 is the most I would ever pay for a very well known reputable tuner. Weather it be OS or AP tune.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:17 PM   #24
SWP n Gold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmtweaker View Post
I think you just need to find a better tuner. 250-300 is the most I would ever pay for a very well known reputable tuner. Weather it be OS or AP tune.
EFI Logics here in CT charges $500 for an OpenSource tune; I think that's about the going rate around here for the big name tuners.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:29 PM   #25
dsmtweaker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWP n Gold View Post
EFI Logics here in CT charges $500 for an OpenSource tune; I think that's about the going rate around here for the big name tuners.
Wow... Is that a dyno tune or road tune? If its dyno, then thats where your money is going, which also gives you a much worse tune then road. See if the tuners offer a road tune for cheaper.

Otherwise, I would travel for a better price.
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