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Old 05-23-2011, 06:52 PM   #26
BeBop86
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Seeing that these are almost $500, what is the benefit vs (see link)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GODSP...Q5fAccessories
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:26 PM   #27
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I assure you that I don't have $500 into mine......which are the ones pictured that aren't CAD drawings.


Jay
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:33 PM   #28
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The idea was to make full pillow ball for cheaper then you can buy them where as the godspeeds have clevis mounts on the rear links. Mine are a lot easier to adjust with 3 different points as well as having a lot more adjustment.

Those godspeeds have gotten pretty good reviews actually and is probably what I will get but with the trailing links as well since its only 100 more.
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:07 PM   #29
BeBop86
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Storm, how much are into yours?
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:23 PM   #30
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About $120.....but I had the aluminum on hand to make the reducer bushings (myself), and I had the 14mm bolts and nuts to secure them to the subframe.
From Speedway Motors:

4x 3/4 shank/hole LH pro 1 rod ends at 15.99ea.
4x 3/4 shank/hole RH pro 1 rod ends at 15.99ea.
4x 1" OD 3/4-16 aluminum threaded tie rods, 12" long at 12.99ea.
1x 3/4-16 LH jam nuts at 3.99 for bag of 6
1x 3/4-16 RH jam nuts at 3.99 for bag of 6

Jay
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:31 AM   #31
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You also have to remember that he isn't using a rear sway bar so it doesn't matter if he has the endlink mounts. If you are going to use a sway bar you need to tack on 169 dollars for poltec box mounts. I tried to see if megan racing would sell their box mounts separately from their rear lateral links but I never got a reply. Looked like it would have been around 100 for them if they would do it.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:41 AM   #32
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When you're DIY-ing enough to fabricate lateral links, there's absolutely NO reason to pay $169 for endlink mounts. Looking at the picture of the old Whiteline kit is all you need to do.


My .02

Jay
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:46 AM   #33
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What whiteline kit? I'm talking about this part not the endlink itself:



I guess it comes with the endlinks but I don't think you can get the box without them. Guess it wouldn't be too hard to make them but not without some measurements and not with common hand tools like the rest of my DIY is geared toward, hell all you have to do is screw the parts together really. You will need to a mill to make this part.

Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 05-26-2011 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:13 PM   #34
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I'm in the middle of making some for my Legacy.

I used solid 6061-T6 solid 1 inch round, and 5/8" QA1 chrome-moly left and right teflon/kevlar slot injected rod-ends. Spacer inserts were 303 stainless.



I've got the non-anti roll bar ones done, but am trying to figure out how to do the other ones. A machining 'sketch' of what I'm thinking of:





Done on a manual lathe.

Last edited by Burnman; 07-10-2011 at 02:15 PM. Reason: extra pic
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:40 AM   #35
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Kojak, did you remake them with the adjustment in the middle? Any updates or pictures?

Out of curiosity, are these noisy?
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:52 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnman View Post
I'm in the middle of making some for my Legacy.

I used solid 6061-T6 solid 1 inch round, and 5/8" QA1 chrome-moly left and right teflon/kevlar slot injected rod-ends. Spacer inserts were 303 stainless.



I've got the non-anti roll bar ones done, but am trying to figure out how to do the other ones. A machining 'sketch' of what I'm thinking of:





Done on a manual lathe.
Here is what I used to attach the endlink to the lateral link on mine. Also plan on using them on my front custom LCA. It's a panhard bar mount for circle guys.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/400282917940...84.m1438.l2649
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:53 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeBop86 View Post
Kojak, did you remake them with the adjustment in the middle? Any updates or pictures?

Out of curiosity, are these noisy?
I haven't made either one actually, just made up some drawings to make them in the future, never had time and wifes approval to make them myself so I posted my drawings to help others.

It was also brought up that the aluminum rod ends may not be strong enough and that zinc plated steel ones would be ideal and still do well in aspect of corrosion which was one of the reasons I used aluminum in the first place the other being weight.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:01 AM   #38
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Bringing this back.

What if a guy wanted to keep the stock bushing setup but just up grade to Tic bushings or the like.

then just cut the links in half(2 cuts, remove about 2 inches from the rod in the center)

then tap the inside of the stock piping and get double ended studs to adjust the length?
then all a guy would need are studs, jam nuts, and poly bushings of your choice? sorry if this has already been done. i found this thread via google.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:13 AM   #39
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Aren't the factory links hollow? If they are you need to make sure they are thick enough to support being threaded. Another thought against is that the factory links are skinnier than this setup so it would only support a very small double ended stud which wouldn't be strong enough.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:39 PM   #40
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^^^ What he said. I don't think they would be strong enough without going to a larger threadsize. Gotta consider wall thickness before and after cutting threads into it.

FWIW, I'm about 6 months into the lifecycle of my setup that sees more than 1.5g lateral accelleration. My aluminum bushings have in fact developed a little more play as time has progressed. Interestingly, the play is on the OD of the bushing, where it slips into the spherical bearing. It is still the same as new where the bolt passes through the ID. For a quick fix, I used a center punch to dimple and burnish the OD and take up the slop. Worked like a charm for now. The next set will be of a harder material for longevity.

I could not be happier with the performance of this setup. Alignments are super easy, they stay put, and allow the dampers to completely work on the wheel and not have to work against bushings flexing and rebounding.....

Jay

Last edited by Storm; 09-13-2012 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:58 AM   #41
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that what i was thinking folks were gonna say. not thick enough. on that note i did find these while searching.

http://www.fmpracing.com/product_inf...roducts_id=504
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:27 PM   #42
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those are cheap...looks like the ebay versions...
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:28 PM   #43
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yea most likely. but i cant anyway. i cant get my lat links of the car. that bolt that goes though the rear knuckle and both lat links is never coming out. ever. been sittting for days with liquid wrench on soaking it and nothin.

anyone have any old knuckles laying around that dont have 250 thousand miles on them?
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:45 AM   #44
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I have a disc brake conversion from either a legacy or forester don't remember that has the knuckles and all.
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:36 AM   #45
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does it all come apart?
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Old 09-15-2012, 01:04 PM   #46
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Youre going to have to cut the links/bolts.

Those look like crap, I wouldnt touch them with a 10 foot stick. That inner-most lock nut is going to be impossible to tighten/loosen on the car.
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