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Old 04-15-2011, 10:21 AM   #1
KOJAK-02-WRX
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Here is another one. I used 3/8 since it is what perrin uses in their kit.

2-__APM-6______3/8-24 Male RHT 7075 Anodized Red Aluminum Rod End Nylon Lining____Midwest Control Products__10.67 __$ 21.34
2-__APF-6______3/8-24 Female RHT 7075 Anodized Red Aluminum Rod End Nylon Lining___Midwest Control Products__10.67 __$ 21.34
8-__MCW-6_____3/8 Rod End Washer____________________________________________ __Midwest Control Products__2.09 __$ 16.72
8-__RS375______3/8 Rod End Rubber Boot__________________________________________Midwest Control Products__2.13 __$ 17.04
1-__94805A217__3/8-24 SS Jam Nut ( Box of 25)______________________________________McMaster-Carr___________8.25___$ 8.25


Total $84.69
Then you supply 4 3/8 Bolts, Lock Washers, and Nuts

For the GC8 (Measurements from 99 Forester) front 2-1/4- 2-9/16" adjustable you will:
Cut 1/4" from APF-6 and then bottom tap 3/8-24 7/8" deep
Cut 3/16" from APM-6

For the GD (Measurements from 05 RS) front 2-5/8- 3" adjustable you just assemble.

GC Length Left / GD Length Right

By kojakwrx at 2011-04-19
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Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 04-19-2011 at 06:07 AM.
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:18 PM   #2
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I can't believe that I actually just went and figured this out but you can save $4.66 if you order 10 each of items MCW-6 and RS375 due to discount pricing.

Good find on this this.
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:49 PM   #3
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uh, wat

pictures please?
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:02 AM   #4
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I haven't made any yet which is why there is only a cad drawing at the moment, this is mostly an idea thread to see if anyone has done it or wants to be the guinea pig. There is nothing special about anyone's sperical endlinks, besides the linings and seals which these have nylon linings and rubber boots so they should be fine.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:43 AM   #5
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i recall somebody else doing this (in the suspension forum) and if i recall he ended up spending a little more then a set of kartboy ones as you need good rod ends. those alu ones have been known to break. might upgrade to some steel ones. for some strong steel ones check out ruffstuff off road. he has some nice cryo heat treated ones for a good price.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:50 AM   #6
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I would hope they wouldn't break, they are made form 7075 aluminum. I don't see how the aftermarket setups could be using anything better then these. Those cryo's are way overkill I would say.
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:52 PM   #7
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i believe the perrin ones were also 7075 alu. heres a pic for you (hope it works as i am at work and the pic is blocked)
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:39 PM   #8
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Dang paranoid, those look like they are probably the same as what I spec'd out, andodized red and all. Do you know what he was doing when they decided to break?
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:47 PM   #9
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i cant, but there have been a bunch that show breakage like that. I dont remember him saying he was doing anything crazy. this is my main concern with the alu rod ends. i just dont feel they are worth the risk in this app. get some metal ones and you should be good
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:58 PM   #10
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Looks like that would be a good idea, just strange, the aluminum links on mcmaster granted I only looked at the 3/4 ones were rated at 13000 lbs.

Looks like the 3/8 are rated at 4000 lbs. I thought about stainless but it is only rated for 3000 lbs, you can get the steel with a 9500lb rating.

Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 04-19-2011 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 04-19-2011, 03:12 PM   #11
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I myself like overkill. so i always go bigger then needed. i have these i am using for a project

not sure the weight savings you will get with alu over steel, but not sure its that much. i would keep the alu tubing like you have, but just use steel rod ends.
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:10 PM   #12
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I really didn't go for the aluminum for weight savings but more corrosion resistance. Im worried how well the steel will hold up in salty conditions.
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:13 PM   #13
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hmm, good point. forgot you guys have to deal with salt. those boot covers would probably help with that. but i would think that as long as the actual ball is stainless you should be ok.
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:16 PM   #14
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How well does the zinc plating do to protect from corrosion? What's the difference in the clear and yellow zinc? Just color?
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KOJAK-02-WRX View Post
Looks like the 3/8 are rated at 4000 lbs. I thought about stainless but it is only rated for 3000 lbs, you can get the steel with a 9500lb rating.
I went with steel 3/8 rod ends for my endlinks (5+ years ago). They've held up when aluminum tabs on control arms failed.....


Jay
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:59 PM   #16
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7075 aluminum is susceptible to stress corrosion cracking when residual stresses are present above a certain level. Stresses like those from the interference fit force of that spherical bearing in the rod end are prime culprits. Add a bit of road salt and some water and you get a crack with no added external load.
Try a 6000 series alloy or go with steel, make it stainless and seal the bearings.
Pretty straightforward to calculate load cases if you know your swaybar properties and max possible deflection, this way you don't need to blindly overbuild it adding unnecessary weight or cost.
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:04 AM   #17
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Unfortunately stainless steel is not designed for high strength applications. It's designed to be highly corrosion resistant. You would be best off to find some with housings made of chrome plated steel.
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:35 AM   #18
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I did some hunting around on Midwest's site. I think you would be better off looking at the CTF-6 and CTM-6. They are the same overall dimensions, are chrome plated steel with teflon races, and should be about twice as strong as the aluminum versions. And they're cheaper.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:19 AM   #19
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I was just looking at that yikes, yeah those or the MTM MTF, which is better, chrome plated or zinc plated you think?
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:47 AM   #20
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Chrome plated. Definately.

I ran the question by my boss who was in the automotive industry at Robert Shaw for 30+ years. He said that for suspension components, he would expect to start seeing red rust within 6 months on a zinc plated suspension component. The chrome would definately be a better choice as long as you put the seals on it to avoid any metal to metal contact since chrome parts are suseptable to chipping.

Last edited by Y_I_K_E_S; 04-20-2011 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Y_I_K_E_S View Post
Unfortunately stainless steel is not designed for high strength applications.
This is incorrect. There are some very high strength stainless alloys that rival alloyed steel. If aluminum is on the table as a potential material, then stainless can sure be considered from a strength standpoint.

Just figure out what your potential loads are and design for it, you can probably make just about any material work, it's all about using enough of it and assuring it holds up to your other requirements: corrosion, weight, cost, etc.

Chrome plated steel is a good choice, more economical and high strength and if the plating holds up it provides good corrosion resistance. Zinc plated just won't resist corrosion for any significant amount of time in this application, it's offered as a more economical alternative. Avoid cheap chrome plated parts due to risk of hydrogen embrittlement from the plating process.

Last edited by mtbnorcal; 04-20-2011 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:29 PM   #22
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I was speaking in reference to stainless steel in general terms. Compared to aluminum yes, stainless steel is as strong or stronger. Compared to alloy steel that will not break the bank, no, it is not as strong.

A lot of my job has me dealing with high strength ductile iron castings. If you can tell me how to produce as-cast 100-70-03 stainless in 70 pound castings, I'll give you a job.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:12 PM   #23
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Man, you guys are overthinking this by a week and a half.

Buy some cheap ones from mcmaster. I think I paid $45 for all four corners + hardware. You're not going to break them if they're not those stupid thin aluminum ones perrin used.
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:40 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper1rfa View Post
Man, you guys are overthinking this by a week and a half.

Buy some cheap ones from mcmaster. I think I paid $45 for all four corners + hardware. You're not going to break them if they're not those stupid thin aluminum ones perrin used.
but with the cheap ones will start to rattle after a wile.
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:59 AM   #25
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^we shall see...i ordered two of these (http://www.fastenal.com:80/web/produ...0411985&ucst=t) today with the accompanying male ends, they should be in on Monday. I also thought about some of these: http://compare.ebay.com/like/3206794...=263602_325002
Who wants to make bets on how long they'll last?
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