Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Thursday July 31, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
New England Subaru Impreza Club
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Chapters > New England Impreza Club Forum -- NESIC

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-09-2012, 05:53 PM   #1
nikiSTI
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 146743
Join Date: Apr 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Hudson, MA
Vehicle:
2005 STi Stg 2
WRB

Default Aircraft light mod

Im trying to figure out a way to run aircraft taxi lights for my driving lights. All I really need is 12vdc to 28vdc converter that is capable of running 450w light.

Any help is much appreciated
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
nikiSTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2012, 07:24 PM   #2
leach0789
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 210903
Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Cranston, RI
Vehicle:
02 WRX/Turbo Miata
Nitrous Rhodes

Default

leach0789 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2012, 09:00 PM   #3
redsoxwin
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 189313
Join Date: Sep 2008
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Kingston, MA
Vehicle:
'10 Tacoma

Default

If only you had a long runway like driveway for top speed runs...
redsoxwin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2012, 10:08 PM   #4
Evil Homer
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 175522
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Default

I hope an airplane crashes into you.
Evil Homer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 12:28 AM   #5
TireIron
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 218469
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Methuen, MASS
Vehicle:
96 SVX
Green

Default

28V 450W is a TON of power for lights. You're headlights and highbeams are only 12V 55W...
TireIron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 06:56 AM   #6
89zxTO2.5rs
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 232501
Join Date: Dec 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lowell, Mass
Vehicle:
2001 Impreza 2.5RS
OBP(Black)

Default

How did you even manage to get those lights? Either way, its really not worth the trouble doing something like this or running the risk of damaging your electrical system. Just run some Hella's.
89zxTO2.5rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 09:08 AM   #7
nperkins
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 135812
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Griswold, CT
Vehicle:
90 Miata
04 Evo Rally Car

Default

nperkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 09:22 AM   #8
Snowphun
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 1800
Join Date: Jul 2000
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Way South Shore MA
Vehicle:
WRX /Cooper S/Miata
awd/fwd/rwd

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89zxTO2.5rs View Post
How did you even manage to get those lights? Either way, its really not worth the trouble doing something like this or running the risk of damaging your electrical system. Just run some Hella's.
Are aircraft parts not sold to the public? I think this is well worth the trouble, could be a lot of fun for offroad adventures. But that much juice seems way outside the design of a car.
Snowphun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 09:27 AM   #9
sexyyrex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 128022
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Danbury, CT
Vehicle:
2009 WRB STi
2007 Nissan Altima

Default

Any idea how much heat those give off? The more watts, the hotter it will run, considering is just a colored, glowing resistor. You'll met the housing after 5 seconds of powering them, not to mention blind everyone on the road.
sexyyrex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 09:27 AM   #10
timeXlost
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 113924
Join Date: May 2006
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Medway, MA
Vehicle:
2005 STI....Broken
93 RX7...Not Broken

Default

i got this light out of a lighthouse...

im thinking i want to mount it in my grill, can anyone tell me how to do it?
timeXlost is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 09:36 AM   #11
H-Dtech
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 139430
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Hatcher Pass, AK
Vehicle:
08 FSXT 5mt
WRB 1 of 300

Default

When I lived in AK, alot of guys would run aircraft landing lights. I'm not sure how they rigged them up to work, but i know for the most part they would stick with the 5" lights and mount them in those rubberized tractor light housings. the whole set up worked really well.
H-Dtech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 09:54 AM   #12
jcoppah24
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 217515
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Seacoast NH
Vehicle:
2006 WRX Stage 2
OBP

Default

I have harnessed the power of the sun and would like to mount it on the back of my car for rear fog light... any thoughts... ?
jcoppah24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 09:59 AM   #13
nikiSTI
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 146743
Join Date: Apr 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Hudson, MA
Vehicle:
2005 STi Stg 2
WRB

Default

I know how hot they get and I got the original housings for them. All I need is a converter that doesn't cost 2k.
If I got the parts why not do a little experiment to see if it can be done, who gives a **** if it might not be practical
nikiSTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 10:21 AM   #14
nperkins
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 135812
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Griswold, CT
Vehicle:
90 Miata
04 Evo Rally Car

Default

If you are serious, at 28v, 450 watts pulls about 17 amps of constant current, not including initial load...

Drop that to 12 volts, and you are at roughly 30-31 amps of constant load. The factory alternator puts out 90 amps... That's a fairly heft load...

You will need some major relays, and the convertor would not be easy to do, as to be able to upconvert from 12v to 28v, while maintaining a 20+ amp load is serious business...

Not to mention you will need to run an 8-10 gauge wire to each light & relay, and keep the distance from the battery less than say 4 feet, and will also need to upgrade the alternator/battery/ground cables to 1/0 gauge in order to keep the current where you need it without frying the electrical system...
nperkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 11:06 AM   #15
WhiteKnightSTi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 169250
Join Date: Jan 2008
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Vehicle:
2001 Schweizer 300CB
(wirlybird)

Default

What the hell is a "taxi light"? Do you mean a landing light.
WhiteKnightSTi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 03:09 PM   #16
Jack
Add Lightness
Moderator
 
Member#: 13699
Join Date: Dec 2001
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Hopkinton, MA
Vehicle:
2007 Lotus Elise
(From General)

Default

I don't want to quote mistakes.

If this is 28V dc, then you need to draw 40A from your battery. You need a 16A output boost converter. This is essentially constant power with a switching supply (minus losses) so your input current is stepped up. So 450W/12V with efficiency is 40A CONSTANT CURRENT. Pretty close to what you need to start your car, but continuously pulled.

If you want to design one, I would recommend that you start right out with an interleaved boost design. Easiest way to do this is to just use a PFC interleaved part. You'll want to go continuous current for this kind of power because even with the interleaving, transition mode isn't going to be very good. Look up the datasheet, app notes and seminar topics for a Texas Instruments ucc28070. From a power designer perspective, it's pretty straight forward and the part is pretty mature at this point.

If any of this is unclear, you don't want to even do anything.

Wanna guess what I do for a living and for whom?
Jack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 03:11 PM   #17
North Ursalia
Miss You Mom
Oct 1940 - Feb 2008

Super Moderator
 
Member#: 809
Join Date: Jan 2000
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: NH, Land Of Many Trees
Vehicle:
2000 2.5 RS, '14 For
92 5MT SVX

Default

Taxi light is on the front landing gear, and is used during, well, taxi on the runway
North Ursalia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 03:14 PM   #18
Jack
Add Lightness
Moderator
 
Member#: 13699
Join Date: Dec 2001
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Hopkinton, MA
Vehicle:
2007 Lotus Elise
(From General)

Default

http://www.ti.com/tool/pmp2351

Here's the pre-cursor that my buddy Mike did before we had the 28070. This will also work.
Jack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2012, 08:24 AM   #19
nperkins
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 135812
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Griswold, CT
Vehicle:
90 Miata
04 Evo Rally Car

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack ffr1846 View Post
I don't want to quote mistakes.

If this is 28V dc, then you need to draw 40A from your battery. You need a 16A output boost converter. This is essentially constant power with a switching supply (minus losses) so your input current is stepped up. So 450W/12V with efficiency is 40A CONSTANT CURRENT. Pretty close to what you need to start your car, but continuously pulled.

If you want to design one, I would recommend that you start right out with an interleaved boost design. Easiest way to do this is to just use a PFC interleaved part. You'll want to go continuous current for this kind of power because even with the interleaving, transition mode isn't going to be very good. Look up the datasheet, app notes and seminar topics for a Texas Instruments ucc28070. From a power designer perspective, it's pretty straight forward and the part is pretty mature at this point.

If any of this is unclear, you don't want to even do anything.

Wanna guess what I do for a living and for whom?
Apparently I have an oops in my calculations? I'm no EE, but I thought I was doing it right...
nperkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2012, 10:01 AM   #20
jeepnut_nh
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 261162
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: southern New Hampshire, USA
Vehicle:
2000 Outback Sport
blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteKnightSTi View Post
What the hell is a "taxi light"? Do you mean a landing light.

really?

Quote:
Originally Posted by North Ursalia View Post
Taxi light is on the front landing gear, and is used during, well, taxi on the runway
yup

im pretty sure the ground crew likes going home with no burns and eyesight intact
jeepnut_nh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2012, 10:19 AM   #21
scottyb0119
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 277399
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: The North Coast, Oh
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WR Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nperkins View Post
Not to mention you will need to run an 8-10 gauge wire to each light & relay, and keep the distance from the battery less than say 4 feet, and will also need to upgrade the alternator/battery/ground cables to 1/0 gauge in order to keep the current where you need it without frying the electrical system...
You dont need 8-10 gauge wire, and it can be much longer then 4 feet. Aircraft wiring is made to be light they only use ~14 gauge wire and I assure you its longer then 4 feet from the battery, realy, and contactor.

I don't know where the OP wants to put these lights concidering they're all sealed beam style lamps...
scottyb0119 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2012, 12:03 PM   #22
nperkins
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 135812
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Griswold, CT
Vehicle:
90 Miata
04 Evo Rally Car

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb0119 View Post
You dont need 8-10 gauge wire, and it can be much longer then 4 feet. Aircraft wiring is made to be light they only use ~14 gauge wire and I assure you its longer then 4 feet from the battery, realy, and contactor.

I don't know where the OP wants to put these lights concidering they're all sealed beam style lamps...
Are they using a different material other than copper or something?

http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm

I was a little off on my distances, but if you look at that chart, at 12 volts, and 40 amps, the max recommended for 14ga wire is 7'.
nperkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2012, 01:21 PM   #23
scottyb0119
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 277399
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: The North Coast, Oh
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WR Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nperkins View Post
Are they using a different material other than copper or something?

http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm

I was a little off on my distances, but if you look at that chart, at 12 volts, and 40 amps, the max recommended for 14ga wire is 7'.
Im just going by my personal experiance in the aviation industry, I see what that chart says but I know that the wires going to the wing landing lights are probably 25ft long at least.

I think the OP should look at other ideas for extreme lighting, something in HID or at least keep it in the 12v range.
scottyb0119 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2012, 01:42 PM   #24
nperkins
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 135812
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Griswold, CT
Vehicle:
90 Miata
04 Evo Rally Car

Default

Oh I agree completely. On the rally car we have bumper pods & a hood pod, all with typical circular lights, all 6k HID, and on startup, if all 6 lights are enabled at once, it pulls like 28 amps of current (yes this was measured) and after all 6 warmed up, levelled off around 13 amps... That was running 8awg from battery to relay panel, 12awg across the relays, and then I believe I used 18awg from the relay panel to the hood & bumper, keeping grounds as short as possible.
nperkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2012, 02:12 PM   #25
nikiSTI
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 146743
Join Date: Apr 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Hudson, MA
Vehicle:
2005 STi Stg 2
WRB

Default

I appreciate all the input, I do have aircraft wiring that I can use. I'm an aircraft maintainer for a living that's how I have access to all that stuff. The difference between taxi and landing lights is that the landing light is a 1000w at least on the airframe that I work on.

The reason I even decided to mess with this is just boredom at work, and I figured it wouldnt be a bad idea as far as cost goes judging by how much the hid lights go for
nikiSTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Door Light Mod and map light mod What ya think? twofastsubaru Interior & Exterior Modification 14 01-20-2008 12:14 AM
04 cluter light mod same as 03 mods? NVSPRELUDE Electrical & Lighting 1 10-28-2007 08:52 PM
All my mods are for sale. (cross post :) ) + Head Light mod, if you haven't done it.. Keith Tri-State Area Forum 6 01-19-2002 09:22 AM
Fog light mod in mod section, MY00 RS please look? joostin420 Technical Forum Archive 5 08-25-2000 08:08 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.