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Old 11-06-2011, 02:40 PM   #76
jkf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedRX View Post
If anyone is looking for front speakers that are VERY easy, I can confirm the Alpine SPS-610C and the tweeters are direct replacements. Just remove the tweeter out of the twist on housing Alpine provides and they fit like OEM in the sail panels, no cutting needed. I have the Alpine SPS-610 in the rear and they give absolutely zero clearance issues with 3/4 inch spacers.
That is great to hear, as I've been planning an upgrade to the 610C's up front and the 610s in the back. Did you need to use spacers on the front speakers? I'm presuming you didn't, since you say they're direct replacements, but wanted to verify.
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Old 11-06-2011, 03:10 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by jkf View Post
That is great to hear, as I've been planning an upgrade to the 610C's up front and the 610s in the back. Did you need to use spacers on the front speakers? I'm presuming you didn't, since you say they're direct replacements, but wanted to verify.
Yes I did sorry about that, 1/2 inch spacers all around. Got mine from IA Performance. Easiest swap I've done so far, they come with everything you need.

Remember to buy the METRA 72-8104 TOYOTA UNIVERSAL SPEAKER CONNECTORS

You'll need 2 set

Also the tweeters youll need to remove all of the housing including the front protective grill. It comes off without any tools, nothing is holding it in place.

Last edited by WickedRX; 11-06-2011 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 11-06-2011, 03:14 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by WickedRX View Post
Yes I did sorry about that, 3/4 inch spacers all around. Got mine from IA Performance. Easiest swap I've done so far, they come with everything you need.

Remember to buy the METRA 72-8104 TOYOTA UNIVERSAL SPEAKER CONNECTORS

You'll need 2 set
I can also make the spacers for you, if you'd rather have the full 3/4" thickness. If you go with the iA spacers, you have to buy 2 full sets and stack them. Plus, mine are solid PVC, while theirs are injection molded plastic. I bought the iA ones and did not like them, so I made my own (see pics on page 1).

Shoot me a PM if you want a set. I have made them for a lot of other members, by request.
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Old 11-06-2011, 03:25 PM   #79
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Corrected my post, I used 1/2 inch spacers.
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:14 PM   #80
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I know that each brand of speaker will have different depths, but would it be a good idea to just get the 3/4" spacers regardless of the depth of the speaker? That way there is no chance of hitting the window?

Does the 3/4" spacer cause any cone interference when the door card is placed back on?
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:29 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rymantas
I know that each brand of speaker will have different depths, but would it be a good idea to just get the 3/4" spacers regardless of the depth of the speaker? That way there is no chance of hitting the window?

Does the 3/4" spacer cause any cone interference when the door card is placed back on?
I might be incorrect, but I think it would be for a few reasons. One that way the back if your speaker isn't exposed to the weather it it drops behind the door. Two, you have a better insulation between the speaker and the metal door. There is a techno term for this.. To me its just a rattling sound. Three, stock speakers use a 6 point mounting circle and most aftermarket speakers use 4.
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:18 PM   #82
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Yeah, you can pretty much plan on breaking the rear sail panels if you take them off. No doubt about that.

Good thing they are very cheap to replace. I would actually say that anyone planning on replacing their rear door speakers should buy a replacement set of these first.
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:08 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rymantas View Post
I know that each brand of speaker will have different depths, but would it be a good idea to just get the 3/4" spacers regardless of the depth of the speaker? That way there is no chance of hitting the window?

Does the 3/4" spacer cause any cone interference when the door card is placed back on?
No cone interference with a 3/4" spacer unless you have crazy tweeter protrusion.

And yes, going with 3/4" from the beginning is a good idea. It fits, and it offers the best flexibility if you change to deeper speakers later.
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:08 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by vajayhawkfan View Post
Yeah, you can pretty much plan on breaking the rear sail panels if you take them off. No doubt about that.

Good thing they are very cheap to replace. I would actually say that anyone planning on replacing their rear door speakers should buy a replacement set of these first.
Good thinking. I'll try to add the part numbers to the first post.

Parts are 94251 FG040 (Right) and 94251 FG050 (Left). List is $9.18 each. I got them for a little less than that from Annapolis Subaru (a NASIOC vendor- use them!).

Last edited by phenryiv1; 11-21-2011 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:09 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by Louie View Post
Two, you have a better insulation between the speaker and the metal door. There is a techno term for this.. To me its just a rattling sound. Three, stock speakers use a 3 point mounting circle and most aftermarket speakers use 4.
Decoupling is the word that you were looking for.

And I corrected the mounting points in bold. But you had the right idea.
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Old 11-21-2011, 03:14 PM   #86
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Updated Post 84 with sail panel part numbers.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:36 AM   #87
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great thread. did i miss the head unit install??
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:43 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by Vash337 View Post
great thread. did i miss the head unit install??
No, I made this thread for the speakers and door panels, but I can try to throw together a similar thread for the HU. The HU was so easy that I never got around to making an install thread. The only hard part is having the right tools (plastic trim tools) to remove the bezel.

Edit:

Here is a link to my install thread. The section on the HU gives a pretty good overview of how it all comes apart:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2218119

Last edited by phenryiv1; 11-29-2011 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:20 PM   #89
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Periodic bump for all of the '12 buyers who roll in here...
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:35 PM   #90
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Periodic bump for all of the '12 buyers who roll in here...

Like me! Picking up my 2012 STI Limited tomorrow with Nav. Thanks to all who have participated in this thread. I have read all pages and associated pages with this thread and anticipate doing front, rear and amp in it. I'm sure I will reach out to phenryiv1 and pick up the adapters/spacers. Not sure what size the speakers are F&R. Also, on the 2012 Nav, is there either a preamp level out on the back or preamp level out in the harness I could tap into?
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Old 01-30-2012, 07:20 PM   #91
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Periodic bump for all of the '12 buyers who roll in here...

Like me! Picking up my 2012 STI Limited tomorrow with Nav. Thanks to all who have participated in this thread. I have read all pages and associated pages with this thread and anticipate doing front, rear and amp in it. I'm sure I will reach out to phenryiv1 and pick up the adapters/spacers. Not sure what size the speakers are F&R. Also, on the 2012 Nav, is there either a preamp level out on the back or preamp level out in the harness I could tap into?
I am working on getting all of this info (and a lot more) into a website for subaru owners. I took it live a couple weeks ago but it is a work in progress. Check out www.subaruaudio.net for some of the writeups and info.

The '12 does not have RCA outputs. You have to use a line output converter.

Last edited by phenryiv1; 01-30-2012 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:33 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
I am working on getting all of this info (and a lot more) into a website for subaru owners. I took it live a couple weeks ago but it is a work in progress. Check out www.subaruaudio.net for some of the writeups and info.

The '12 does not have RCA outputs. You have to use a line output converter.
Well, that's too bad. My Alpine amp does have speaker level in as well as RCA. Thanks for the link, I will read the posts.
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:40 PM   #93
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Hmmm...this has not been bumped in a while. '12 WRX/STi owners can benefit from most of the information. Some even applies to the '12 Impreza.
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:12 AM   #94
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Hey all, looking for new speakers now, will either go with Infinities, MB Quart, Focal or Hybrid Audio. I think I wanna do components front and rear and put the rear tweets in the door handle, looks like a great spot for them if they will clear the back. So is there a picture driven tutorial for a back up camera install?
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:59 PM   #95
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So I have recently Blown my stock speakers well because I like to listen to my music loud! But everytime I think about buying new speakers I think about the mounting issues and the DIY PVC brackets. I saw you said that there was most speakers that would not fit, is there any you know that WOULD fit without modifying. (You may have said it, I will re-read the first page to see and edit if I find it)

While I do have basic knowledge on the DIY projects (especially after a detailed write up is available) I do not think I would be able to make it look nearly as clean as you did...
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:18 PM   #96
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My speaker fit in the oem bracket
They are great quality and i'm very happy with them. They are not cheap. I found them on crutchfield

Jl-audio tr600-cxi

Hope it help
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:30 PM   #97
Tmangt650
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Yeah not too much worried about price, as I have put a decent amount into my current sound system. JL Audio will actually be my nuext sub upgrade. Cannot put a price on good quality sound.

Do you know if theyd fit in a 2.5i tho? I thought I read it was the same fitment..
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:04 PM   #98
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I got a wrx 2011, should be the same interior. To be sure ask crutchfield, they are good.

I changd the four speaker and add a ton of dynamat

Very happy. I'm using a pioneer unit.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:06 PM   #99
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Yeah ill be sure to ask them. Im in some DESPERATE need of dynomat. But the shizz is so expen$$ive..
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:11 PM   #100
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Agreed, but worth every penny!!!

I suggest the nine sheet kit. Good for four door and most of the trunk. I does work well. You wont need a sub after that
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