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Old 04-09-2012, 06:16 PM   #101
Tmangt650
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True.

As far as the sub goes. Don't plan on taking it out anytime soon. Unless a (future) wife says something. But since im single, again wont be for a while!!
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:33 PM   #102
Syrius78
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The toughest thing to find is a nice set of tweeter.

I did add them and its great, took me a year to find a set that fit in the oem spot.

It does make a difference

Btw, when i'm passing freight truck, i don't ear them. That great!!

Very happy with my setup, make a huge upgrade from the stock wrx.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:36 PM   #103
Tmangt650
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Yeah this is true, I tried looking to see if I have a spot on the n/a model for tweeters but I didn't see it there...
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:03 PM   #104
Syrius78
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Even better for you

Place them on the a pillar and pass some wire to a crossover box then to your hu. Simple and easy. Be careful of the airbag.

You got the choice of your size of tweeter
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:18 PM   #105
Tmangt650
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Yeah, Ill have to check that out tomorrow.
Did you happen to buy the same speakers for front and rear? I see (at least on ebay) that they only come with a pair per order. I will end up checking out my stereo hook up shop, but just curious.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:35 PM   #106
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Yes, same kit for me, two set of two, plus dynamat and tweeter.

In canada crutchfield got the best price by far and got a nice selection and a awesome consumer service. If you ever got any trouble, you call and ask for help.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:37 PM   #107
Tmangt650
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Cool, sounds like a plan, NOW THE SEARCH/RESEARCH STARTS!
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:14 PM   #108
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Cant go wrong with aftermarket. Anyone will be better than stock!!! I'm biais toward jl audio because i have it. Im sure you get what you paid for though
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:50 PM   #109
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EXCLUSIVE 2013 SUBARU LEAKED VIDEO
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:19 PM   #110
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Can anyone confirm the absolute max speaker depth you can fit in the front of an 11sti sedan? I have a pair of Focal K2P's from my old car that I would love to reuse. These have a top mounting depth of 3.03".
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:49 AM   #111
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With a pair of my 3/4" spacers (like on page 1), I have seen installs in the GR with 2 7/8" deep speakers (the Focal K2 Power 165KR). There is probably a little room in the front to add a single 1/4" spacer on top of that to get you to 3.125" depth.

To fit 1" of spacers behind the door panel, you MAY need to use extended door pins. I know in the new Foresters you do NOT need EDPs to fit 1" spacers, but I never checked in the GR. And that is not to say that you would even need the extra 1/4" spacer to fit the 3.03" speaker. I don't know how much space was left behind the magnet for the Focals.

Let me know if you have other questions.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:09 PM   #112
DeadGeneration
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Awesome OP
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Old 04-27-2012, 12:04 PM   #113
djseth
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So I finished putting in my speakers, front and rear in my 2012 yesterday. My hardware list is as follows:
2 Prs, Hertz 165 components
2 Prs Speaker harnesses
2 prs Speaker adapters from Paranoid fabrications (nice)
4 Sheets Dynomat
2 prs Speaker insulators (to keep them dry inside the door

They turned out really nice. Issues I had were mounting the front tweeters and breaking the rear sail panels. I ended up drilling holes in the front tweeter mounts and putting them in from the outside. Lots of sanding and filing, but they look awesome.

I bought components for the rears too, 'cause I thought they would look great with the tweeters mounted in the door handle escushions. It was a decent amount of work, but they look so good!

Now need to replace the sail panels and get the amp, subwoofer and rear backup camera in. That should happen next weekend!

Thanks for all the help here!
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:47 PM   #114
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Thank you for the Kudos. As mentioned, I have copied a lot of the info to www.subaruaudio.net

That site has a lot more info about the wiring, deadening ideas, etc. Not a complete how-to, but pretty close.

If anyone needs custom spacers or adapters, please drop me a line any time.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:49 AM   #115
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Little bump. It's been a while.
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Old 06-10-2012, 03:06 PM   #116
chet24
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So I'm planning on doing this Thursday with my own spacers, and I am only doing 1/2" PVC because my RF speakers aren't very deep.
To make sure I understand... You mount the spacer in the 3 hole existing triangle, and then mount the speaker in a created 4-hole whatever set up for the speaker just in the spacer, without going through the door, right? So my speaker screws, 1/2" should be fine? Or should I go all the way through and do a longer screw? Would that just create more spots for vibration or would it make it less prone to vibrations and movement because it would be "extra secure"?
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:04 PM   #117
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If you use rubber to isolate between the 2, it won't make a difference either way. I personally use the approach of shorter screws (1/2"-5/8") with my 3/4" spacers, but a 3/4" or 1" screw and pre-drilling into the inner door skin would not be the worst idea in history. You'd just have to be really precise with your pre-drilling.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:14 PM   #118
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Patrick, I amped my front speakers. Ran the 16ga wire through the door grommet. I popped the grommet out from the car side AND the door side. The door side pops back into place easily but I can't get the car side back in. You know how on the door side there is a plastic white ring that "snaps" into the frame? Then the grommet (I think) wraps around that.

Here's what i'm talking about...


How do you get that grommet back in place? I'd like to get it figured out before water gets in.

Sorry if this was already covered in this thread. I browsed through the pages but could not find my answer.
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:45 PM   #119
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^^See the white plastic part the wires go through into the body? The rubber boot end has a lip, that lip has to be stretched over the flange of the white plastic part. It does take some playing around to get it back in the space is very tight.

The white plastic conduit does appear to snap out of the body which would make it easy to seat the boot and snap it back in but I recall I could not get it out, was easier to get the boot back on as it was at the time.
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:00 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Power6 View Post
^^See the white plastic part the wires go through into the body? The rubber boot end has a lip, that lip has to be stretched over the flange of the white plastic part. It does take some playing around to get it back in the space is very tight.

The white plastic conduit does appear to snap out of the body which would make it easy to seat the boot and snap it back in but I recall I could not get it out, was easier to get the boot back on as it was at the time.
Right on. That was my initial thought. I tried doing that with the white ring out of the hole but it was late, cold, and I was already 8+ hours in and tired. I'm gonna have to try and fool around with them tomorrow. Thanks for the response.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:51 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fancyfootwork15 View Post

Right on. That was my initial thought. I tried doing that with the white ring out of the hole but it was late, cold, and I was already 8+ hours in and tired. I'm gonna have to try and fool around with them tomorrow. Thanks for the response.
Take the white plastic part out of the door with a small flat head screw driver and then put the rubber black part around it but make sure to look inside the black rubber because it has groves that NEED to align with the cut outs on the white plastic. If you don't align them you will be there for another 8 hours like I was. Once everything is aligned and the edges wrapped around the white plastic part it will just snap back in and you will say to your self I can't believe it was that simple.


Edit: I didn't look what year your car is but it looks like my 2011. Hope you get it back on.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:29 AM   #122
phenryiv1
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Sorry for the late reply to this, but I actually took one look at that assembly and decided that re-using the stock wiring with my 50W would be enough. THere was a thread in here somewhere discussing the current-carrying ability of the OEM wire and I decided that I could run the front wires from the amp to the OEM connector behind the HU and tap into the stock wires at that point.

So far, so good...and no headaches of dealing with the door connectors/grommets that you experienced.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:12 PM   #123
Sigmoid
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Smile phenry's speaker spacers are well made

I just got a set of the 6.5" spacers to mount Infinity 6032CF speakers in the front doors of my 2013 Impreza Premium. Workmanship is excellent and trial fit suggests that they will work perfectly, allowing larger-than-standard speakers in the door without further modifications. Way to go, Patrick!

Sig
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:44 PM   #124
phenryiv1
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Thank you for the vote of confidence!
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:06 PM   #125
musicmaster6921
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after reading this wondering how deep of a spacer im going to need to mount my fronts. i picked up a set of jbl got 6.5" components for my fronts and jbl gto 6.5" 3 ways for the rear deck. looks like im going to need to buy some pvc sheeting
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