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Old 05-13-2011, 09:47 PM   #1
speedyHAM
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Default Burrs for aluminum?

Where is a good place to get burrs for aluminum? I want to do some porting and smoothing of various pieces I am making and a few nice burrs would make the job much easier.

Thanks.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:19 PM   #2
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Really?? Who suggested you need burrs? Make sure you kick em in the nuts.

A burr is a ragged edge, it defeats the purpose of a port and polish.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:51 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by JH02WrxWag View Post
Really?? Who suggested you need burrs? Make sure you kick em in the nuts.

A burr is a ragged edge, it defeats the purpose of a port and polish.
A burr is just one of the many tools that are useful for porting and polishing.

I already have sources for sanding drums and polishing wheels. I need something that will take off more material quickly, something a burr does quite nicely.

Have any decent sources?
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:11 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by speedyHAM View Post
Where is a good place to get burrs for aluminum? I want to do some porting and smoothing of various pieces I am making and a few nice burrs would make the job much easier.

Thanks.
I have ground mountains of aluminum with die grinders and burrs.....and there are many places on line that you can order from

http://www.carbidebur.com/nfburs/nfall.htm

there are many different kinds and cuts and shapes depending on what you are wanting to do.


harbor freight used to have a nice set of burrs in a wooden box....dunno if they still have them
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:14 PM   #5
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Really?? Who suggested you need burrs? Make sure you kick em in the nuts.

A burr is a ragged edge, it defeats the purpose of a port and polish.
a 'burr' is a rotary cutting tool that attaches to a rotary motor of some sort....these are used to remove and shape metal from a work piece

a proper burr used in a proper way can leave a very nice surface that can be easily polished to a mirror finish if needed
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:25 PM   #6
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you could also buy rotary files...but they are usually $$$
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:29 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
a 'burr' is a rotary cutting tool that attaches to a rotary motor of some sort....these are used to remove and shape metal from a work piece

a proper burr used in a proper way can leave a very nice surface that can be easily polished to a mirror finish if needed

Ok, I was wrong, use to be called a reaming bit.

http://american-carbide.com/Burs/ABProducts.php

But I wouldn't use it with hand held rotary tool. Their ment for lathes and mills or cnc machines that use programs. For a hand held rotary tool your best finish would be from a stone and buffing wheel, your less likely to cut a chunk from a soft alloy.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:59 PM   #8
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But I wouldn't use it with hand held rotary tool. Their ment for lathes and mills or cnc machines that use programs. For a hand held rotary tool your best finish would be from a stone and buffing wheel, your less likely to cut a chunk from a soft alloy.



d000000000000000d.....this is preposterous

burrs and rotary files have been used in die grinders for WAY longer than you have been alive by millions of people to grind and shape countless aluminum(and other metal) aircraft parts(and all sorts of other things) all over the world....by hand


I promise
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Old 05-14-2011, 02:48 AM   #9
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d000000000000000d.....this is preposterous

burrs and rotary files have been used in die grinders for WAY longer than you have been alive by millions of people to grind and shape countless aluminum(and other metal) aircraft parts(and all sorts of other things) all over the world....by hand


I promise
Thanks for the history lesson and continuous effort to belittle me. But towards porting and polishing a large diameter there isnt a hand held rotary tool powerful enough to turn that size bit. Ream all the sheet metal and bolt holes you want but don't run that bit along a larger diameter. Trust me I don't know what I'm talking about. Lol
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:26 AM   #10
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whatever


I guess an air die grinder wont spin one of those

then you tell me I cant use one on a large casting

man...I dont know where you have worked....but it isnt where I have

I have ground on LOTS of stuff that you wouldnt believe....of all sorts of different kinds of aluminum and other metals, soft and not....dunno if I'd put 7075-T6 in the 'soft' category or not....but....well anyway

jeez....I wonder what I've been doing with the dozen or so 1/4 inch shank carbide burrs that I have in my tool box....and the 3 or 4 air die grinders that I have

must not have been grinding on any airplane parts, 'cuz you say it just 'aint done

oh yeah...ya usually ream fastener holes with a reamer, not grind 'em
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:52 AM   #11
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We use a combination of carbide burs drums and flapper wheels when we port heads. Ball and cone burrs are NEEDED when doing this to remove material. If you are worried about taking large chunks out then i suggest you STOP and let a professional do the work.

Stones will do nothing but clog up and should never be used on aluminum.

Mcmaster has an amazing selection of burrs
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Old 05-14-2011, 11:18 AM   #12
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You put a 2 - 4 inch+ bit on an die grinder that thing must have some serious power. I'm not worried, I won't try to bore out more than 1" hole with de-burring bit.

You guys also need to consider most people on here asking about stuff don't have the same tools used in industrial manufacturing. You really think it's smart to let some run that bit through their engine block, I don't.

Even then they do decide to port and polish it themselves w/ either bit then still won't know they f'd it up till their car don't work.

Yes, leave machining work to professionals was the point. Scotty if your working on turbines I'm never flying again. I am joking, but I don't think GE or any other turbine manufactur die grinds their engine ports.
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Old 05-14-2011, 11:44 AM   #13
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I don't think I've ever seen a 2-4" bit with a 1/4" shaft for a hand grinder.

That's why they make endmills.
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Old 05-14-2011, 02:19 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by JH02WrxWag View Post
You put a 2 - 4 inch+ bit on an die grinder that thing must have some serious power. I'm not worried, I won't try to bore out more than 1" hole with de-burring bit.

You guys also need to consider most people on here asking about stuff don't have the same tools used in industrial manufacturing. You really think it's smart to let some run that bit through their engine block, I don't.

Even then they do decide to port and polish it themselves w/ either bit then still won't know they f'd it up till their car don't work.

Yes, leave machining work to professionals was the point. Scotty if your working on turbines I'm never flying again. I am joking, but I don't think GE or any other turbine manufactur die grinds their engine ports.
your a moron,
those carbide burrs have a shank length of 2-6 inches. notice the cut diameter of .125, .25, .375,...
set the crack pipe down...
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:08 PM   #15
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your a moron,
those carbide burrs have a shank length of 2-6 inches. notice the cut diameter of .125, .25, .375,...
set the crack pipe down...
Shut up, .124 to 1" isn't gonna port a 2-4" diameter.
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:18 PM   #16
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When you go to port something that has to seat against another part you will more than likely lose the seal. The seal that was made by a machine that makes precise and level cuts.
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:13 PM   #17
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Shut up, .124 to 1" isn't gonna port a 2-4" diameter.
You DO realize that the ports aren't "made" by machine into the heads, and that they are cast aluminum?
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:35 PM   #18
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You DO realize that the ports aren't "made" by machine into the heads, and that they are cast aluminum?
I know it is cast aluminum, but most parts still undergo a machined finish. The casting process leaves burrs and other protrusions.
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:53 PM   #19
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Ok, explain to me what the machine finish has to do with cleaning up (burrs and other protrusions as you call them), slightly enlarging, or polishing HOLES that are already there? You're not using the cutting tools ON the gasket mounting surfaces themselves.

I think I'm starting to see why Scotty gets frustrated...
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:55 PM   #20
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I know it is cast aluminum, but most parts still undergo a machined finish. The casting process leaves burrs and other protrusions.
which are taken out by hand because machining is too ****in expensive.
now shut up before you hurt yourself
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:01 PM   #21
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Ok, explain to me what the machine finish has to do with cleaning up (burrs and other protrusions as you call them), slightly enlarging, or polishing HOLES that are already there? You're not using the cutting tools ON the gasket mounting surfaces themselves.

I think I'm starting to see why Scotty gets frustrated...
Valve seats and other parts that need to seat. There is nothing wrong with refinishing the inside of the manifold. Just shouldn't use a de-burring bit unless it's on the proper diameter hole.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:07 PM   #22
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Valve seats and other parts that need to seat. There is nothing wrong with refinishing the inside of the manifold. Just shouldn't use a de-burring bit unless it's on the proper diameter hole.
You don't port the valve seats, you dope.

This is hopeless.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:08 PM   #23
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which are taken out by hand because machining is too ****in expensive.
now shut up before you hurt yourself
Take a Vicodin, it's about using a de-burring bit not whether or not you or I think car manufactures pay to have their engines machine finished or by hand.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:10 PM   #24
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You don't port the valve seats, you dope.

I'm not trying to dope, the original person still hasn't responded towards what they are actually trying to re-finish. They sitting back in amusement of they babble we've been writing.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:18 PM   #25
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They asked where to get burrs for aluminum, not what they are trying to de-burr, which is completely irrelevant.

I seriously have no idea why I am responding to someone who has obviously never stepped foot in a machine shop.

Oh yah, I'm just that bored.
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