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Old 10-11-2013, 07:59 AM   #601
mikeyj
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Wired up the gauge last night. Went red to door locks, white to illum. and orange to IG2 which is fuse #4 on my '13. I saw earlier in the post someone said IG2 was #26 but that says "unit IG2" Does anyone know waht the difference is? Gauge works just fine but on start up it looks just like O.C.D.'s video. Does not match the stock cluster start up. Is the another fuse that gives true switched 12V or is the problem the illum.? I noticed that it seems to happen because the needles on the stock cluster dim before they turn off so the gauge is still getting power, hence the flicker...
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:06 PM   #602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O.C.D. View Post
I cleaned up the bung and wrapped it in teflon tape then installed: here is the Defi sending unit with the 1/8th pt thread wrapped in teflon tape as well: Here she is installed: Here is the pigtail and the sensor installed. All that is left is the alternator and zip-ties:
Hello just a question, when you removed the alternator during the install, you had to disconnect the battery right? And when you connected it back, did the car start? Or no? Is there a safety feature that when battery is disconnected, the car won't start? I saw on YouTube that it has to be deactivated by the car remote or something? Sorry for the stupid question.
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:08 PM   #603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsantos1082 View Post

Hello just a question, when you removed the alternator during the install, you had to disconnect the battery right? And when you connected it back, did the car start? Or no? Is there a safety feature that when battery is disconnected, the car won't start? I saw on YouTube that it has to be deactivated by the car remote or something? Sorry for the stupid question.
Lol car can't start without a battery. You don't have to disconnect the battery to remove alternator
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:12 PM   #604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsantos1082 View Post
Hello just a question, when you removed the alternator during the install, you had to disconnect the battery right? And when you connected it back, did the car start? Or no? Is there a safety feature that when battery is disconnected, the car won't start? I saw on YouTube that it has to be deactivated by the car remote or something? Sorry for the stupid question.
the will crank a little longer but should start.

IIRC, just pump the brake pedal a few times with the battery disconnected to reset the ECU if you encounter problems w / the car NOT starting after you reconnect the battery.

unless you like spark! mine had to crank / turn over for what seemed like an eternity, but it started after... I dunno, 15 seconds? it seemed like an eternity.
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:36 PM   #605
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Originally Posted by scx89 View Post
Lol car can't start without a battery. You don't have to disconnect the battery to remove alternator
Haha thank you
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:36 PM   #606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChesterWRX View Post
the will crank a little longer but should start. IIRC, just pump the brake pedal a few times with the battery disconnected to reset the ECU if you encounter problems w / the car NOT starting after you reconnect the battery. unless you like spark! mine had to crank / turn over for what seemed like an eternity, but it started after... I dunno, 15 seconds? it seemed like an eternity.
Thank you
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:53 PM   #607
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Here's a quick question that I didn't really see mentioned - on the stock sender oil bung - when you guys are taking it out to place the new sensor in - are you replacing the gasket on it or is there one? I was under the assumption that there is a gasket on the bung. I see OCD removed the entire bung, cleaned it up, and then put it back and installed the pressure sensor. Just was wondering if there was in fact a gasket there and if so I would,d imagine it would be a good idea to replace it?
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:03 AM   #608
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he said he wrapped it in teflon tape
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:30 AM   #609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRB13WRX View Post
he said he wrapped it in teflon tape
On top of that. You should use the yellow "petroleum" Teflon tape. DONT just use the basic white stuff. Oil will break down the standard Teflon tape.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:24 AM   #610
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Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
On top of that. You should use the yellow "petroleum" Teflon tape. DONT just use the basic white stuff. Oil will break down the standard Teflon tape.
hmm..we use the white on our machines at work, on there for years with 1000psi on some hoses...never leaks from there
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:36 AM   #611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRB13WRX View Post
hmm..we use the white on our machines at work, on there for years with 1000psi on some hoses...never leaks from there
It's not the PSI that matters. Maybe it takes a long time to break down. But it will eventually break it down. I'm just the kind of person who would rather do it right the first time than take the chance that it'll start leaking.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:48 AM   #612
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i hear ya, but our machines are from the 40's lol
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:47 PM   #613
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Right but I thought there was a gasket that went under the bung - this to be more precise:

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Suba...ey-Plug-Gasket
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:08 PM   #614
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Could anyone maybe post a picture or explain how exactly to get from the engine bay through the fender well grommet into the cabin? Specifically from the engine bay. I couldn't figure out where the wiring from the sender unit would route down through the fender well. Is there some place I'm missing hidden under the battery or do you have to remove something in the engine compartment to gain access to the grommet from the engine side of things?

Also, did anyone have any trouble using the T-line thing on a STi application? The BPV line is a little more confined and tightly squeezed right off the BPV, I'm foreseeing some issues getting the T-line in successfully without kinking the tubing either to the BPV or off of it and to the sender unit.
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:13 PM   #615
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As show on the first page, Remove the liner by the drivers wheel. Then route the cables down into that plug. The plug leads into the cabin under the electrical panel. I have a 13 sti and the DEFI T did not work for me. I went and bought a T that had two different sizes on it to fit both the stock hose and the defi hose.



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Old 12-06-2013, 03:24 PM   #616
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^ i tried that till i went lower and rubbed on the liner.... i found best works is the gromment behind turbo that runs directly into the cabin into the passengers side
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:26 PM   #617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbrich View Post
As show on the first page, Remove the liner by the drivers wheel. Then route the cables down into that plug. The plug leads into the cabin under the electrical panel. I have a 13 sti and the DEFI T did not work for me. I went and bought a T that had two different sizes on it to fit both the stock hose and the defi hose.
I guess I'm confused as to whether there will be an opening from the engine side directly to that plug once you remove the liner. I can't really tell from pictures and simply looking down into the engine bay near the fuse box and battery I couldn't really figure out how you would be reaching that grommet. That is unless removing the fender liner makes it more clear as to how to route things.

Is there any kind of specifications to look for in a "T" like you have purchased? I'm not sure if they have to be rated for a certain amount of pressure or anything? Would you by chance remember where you purchased the T and what size endings you opted for? I'm guessing Home Depot might have what I'm looking for?
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:49 PM   #618
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This thread is what I used for my Defi install. Thanks OP for taking the time for this write up and thanks XLUBEN for directing me here. Worked out great!
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:17 PM   #619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olenderc View Post
I guess I'm confused as to whether there will be an opening from the engine side directly to that plug once you remove the liner. I can't really tell from pictures and simply looking down into the engine bay near the fuse box and battery I couldn't really figure out how you would be reaching that grommet. That is unless removing the fender liner makes it more clear as to how to route things.

Is there any kind of specifications to look for in a "T" like you have purchased? I'm not sure if they have to be rated for a certain amount of pressure or anything? Would you by chance remember where you purchased the T and what size endings you opted for? I'm guessing Home Depot might have what I'm looking for?

Once you pull the liner your routing will be obvious. As for the "T" fitting it should be provided with your boost gauge. The standard size "T" for tapping into the bpv line is 1/4". The one provided with most kits has a restrictor pill in it for the hose from the sending unit (electronic) or to the gauge (mechanical). The restrictor pill acts as a dampener. Without it some gauges will vibrate or ocscillate.
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:35 PM   #620
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this set up is mint. Planning on doing the identical thing.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:49 PM   #621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmlittlebigman View Post
Once you pull the liner your routing will be obvious. As for the "T" fitting it should be provided with your boost gauge. The standard size "T" for tapping into the bpv line is 1/4". The one provided with most kits has a restrictor pill in it for the hose from the sending unit (electronic) or to the gauge (mechanical). The restrictor pill acts as a dampener. Without it some gauges will vibrate or ocscillate.
The "T" that comes with the DEFI setup is 3/16" all around. While this might be sufficient for a WRX application, the BPV tubing on the STi is slightly larger in diameter and would be too large for the 3/16" end on the "T". The proper "T" to get for a STI would be something like a 1/4" x 1/4" x 3/16".

**UPDATE: Previously thought 1/8" was the correct size for the DEFI tubing (per poor recommendations by others in this thread) but in fact the fitting of the DEFI hose is a little too loose around a 1/8" end so the correct size for that end would be 3/16" for a snug fit. I was going off of what people said earlier in the thread who clearly were just speculating and hadn't actually test fit these actual tees. Hence, why it pays to do your own research rather than blindly follow someone elses unfounded advice.***

I couldn't find any at home depot or autozone/advance auto parts so I found some online that I had to order:

[Removed old websites directing you to the wrong purchase.]

I also purchased a set of ATM (mini) fuse taps rated at 20 amps as well as some 3 amp fuses from Ebay. I got them off Ebay because I could not find either of these at any auto parts store around me and the highest rated fuse taps I could find were rated for 10 amps, which would force you to use 10 amp fuses in place of 15 amp fuses for some of the OEM fuses/circuits. I didn't know how this would affect the original circuits so I opted for higher-rated fuse taps; this way I am able to retain any of the OEM 15 amp fuses I encounter. Also, I could not find any fuses lower than 5 amps at the store. I'm sure 5 amps would be okay for everything, but I read you wouldn't want to use a fuse too high in amps for the gauge circuit so I opted for 3 amp fuses.

Last edited by olenderc; 12-11-2013 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:01 PM   #622
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Thanks man, Good insight into ordering the T online. I search for a good while and still couldn't find anything. I ended up using a trim to diameter piece for the time being until I found a replacement T.

Quote:
Originally Posted by olenderc View Post
The "T" that comes with the DEFI setup is 1/8" all around. While this might be sufficient for a WRX application, the BPV tubing on the STi is slightly larger in diameter and would be too large for the 1/8" end on the "T" as others have mentioned earlier in this thread. The proper "T" to get for a STI would be something like a 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/8".

I couldn't find any at home depot or autozone/advance auto parts so I found some online that I had to order:

http://www.partsreloaded.com/Snowmob...-4-in-X-1-8-in

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dorman-Product...ductId=1532092

I bought both so that I had two different orientations/shape of the correctly sized "T" needed as I was not sure which would provide a kink-free setup as the area by the BPV on the STi is a tight squeeze. If you are confused about what I mean by different orientation, look closely at the two different types of "T" and think about how you would tap into the BPV line. Where the two ends of the OEM BPV line (1/4") would mate, you could have a straight no-angle connection or you could have a 90 degree connection depending on the type of "T" you use. So, because the BPV line on the STI curves downward into the intake manifold so abruptly, a 90 degree connection between the two OEM line endings (once cut) might be more favorable for a kink-free connection.

Therefore I will have a 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/8" and 1/4" x 1/8" x 1/4" to work with and see what provides the best fit.

I also purchased a set of ATM (mini) fuse taps rated at 20 amps as well as some 3 amp fuses from Ebay. I got them off Ebay because I could not find either of these at any auto parts store around me and the highest rated fuse taps I could find were rated for 10 amps, which would force you to use 10 amp fuses in place of 15 amp fuses for some of the OEM fuses/circuits. I didn't know how this would affect the original circuits so I opted for higher-rated fuse taps; this way I am able to retain any of the OEM 15 amp fuses I encounter. Also, I could not find any fuses lower than 5 amps at the store. I'm sure 5 amps would be okay for everything, but I read you wouldn't want to use a fuse too high in amps for the gauge circuit so I opted for 3 amp fuses.
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:19 PM   #623
BJJMark95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olenderc View Post
The "T" that comes with the DEFI setup is 3/16" all around. While this might be sufficient for a WRX application, the BPV tubing on the STi is slightly larger in diameter and would be too large for the 3/16" end on the "T". The proper "T" to get for a STI would be something like a 1/4" x 1/4" x 3/16".

**UPDATE: Previously thought 1/8" was the correct size for the DEFI tubing (per poor recommendations by others in this thread) but in fact the fitting of the DEFI hose is a little too loose around a 1/8" end so the correct size for that end would be 3/16" for a snug fit. I was going off of what people said earlier in the thread who clearly were just speculating and hadn't actually test fit these actual tees. Hence, why it pays to do your own research rather than blindly follow someone elses unfounded advice.***

I couldn't find any at home depot or autozone/advance auto parts so I found some online that I had to order:

[Removed old websites directing you to the wrong purchase.]

I also purchased a set of ATM (mini) fuse taps rated at 20 amps as well as some 3 amp fuses from Ebay. I got them off Ebay because I could not find either of these at any auto parts store around me and the highest rated fuse taps I could find were rated for 10 amps, which would force you to use 10 amp fuses in place of 15 amp fuses for some of the OEM fuses/circuits. I didn't know how this would affect the original circuits so I opted for higher-rated fuse taps; this way I am able to retain any of the OEM 15 amp fuses I encounter. Also, I could not find any fuses lower than 5 amps at the store. I'm sure 5 amps would be okay for everything, but I read you wouldn't want to use a fuse too high in amps for the gauge circuit so I opted for 3 amp fuses.

Good thing they were cheap ...
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:49 PM   #624
2013wrbsedan
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Just went to go install my Defi boost gauge and sadly pictures are gone now unlike last week! OP please repost or re edit if able!
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:14 PM   #625
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Anyone have issues with the headlight stalk contacting the left side gauge, completely preventing the stalk from going into the High Beams - Locked On position?
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