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Old 08-11-2011, 01:44 AM   #101
2point0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman38 View Post
One thing I did notice was my gauges got brighter when you turned the lights on which is the way it's supposed to work but when you turn the lights off they did not go back to the dimmer setting.
Other way around. They should get dim when you turn the lights on, bright when you turn lights off. Clock and cluster and everything should all work that way.
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Old 08-11-2011, 06:35 AM   #102
turboman38
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I have the performance series Prosport gauges with the Amber needles. However, my gauges are 3 years old. I did notice that the prosport website has gauges that have white needles and that do the sweep just like the factory ones. They are much more expensive than the ones that I have and mine still look new and function flawlessly. I'm happy with the way they look.

I would of designed the SMY gauge pod a little differently. Maybe there is no room to do it so that's why it's designed the way it is but I would of pushed the pods back a little further, a little more to the outside of the bezel and angled them upward. Fit an finish are excellent and I am happy with how the entire setup looks.

2point0 thanks for the tip. I actually wired it up so that is bright all the time...went into the IG2 port on the fuse box.

Last edited by turboman38; 08-11-2011 at 06:46 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:44 AM   #103
wrxphantom
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Well that explains why your gauges don't fit. They are the Performance Prosport gauges just like I guessed.

As for my cluster being redesigned. I tried what you suggested and spent a lot of money for that design work and it blocked the temp gauges to much. By moving it forward like it is it blocks the least amount as possible leaving enough room for the majority of gauges to fit. The angle can not be changed, that also was tried and did not pass the mold draw test. (would leave scratch marks on every pod when extracted from the mold. Each cluster has to be able to come straight out of the mold without resistance or they will scratch.)

As the technology gets better smaller parts are used, so gauges will only get less deep. Also the reason why there is 1/4 inch extra in the front so those with really short gauges can cut back the pods face and have their gauge sit further back.

The white needle gauges have one of the best price points out there for the high quality and technology that comes with them.
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Old 08-11-2011, 12:06 PM   #104
turboman38
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You certainly did the research. It's a good product and is definitely the best option out there for gauge pods. I am happy with it. I actually switched the sides the gauges are on last night. I was used to the boost gauge being on the right. The boost gauge fits fine but the oil pressure gauge was too long. I cut the gauge out where the pod angles down in the back and then took a dremel tool to the inside of the left pod. Took my time and everything fits tight now.

Thanks for your efforts with this project.

Have a great day!
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:27 PM   #105
Gtikid98
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Have to say thanks to O.C.D. great post and alot of helpful info, just finished it on mine...



figured i would hack the nav while i was at it.


Next week its downpipe, exhaust, intake...then off to the tuner!

Thanks again
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:36 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gtikid98 View Post
Have to say thanks to O.C.D. great post and alot of helpful info, just finished it on mine...



figured i would hack the nav while i was at it.


Next week its downpipe, exhaust, intake...then off to the tuner!

Thanks again
You realize an intake is kind of pointless, since the stock intake is fine till about 400hp IIRC...... Also you haven't even finished breaking in the car..... SMH.....
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:42 PM   #107
Celery GT-5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregroot198521 View Post
You realize an intake is kind of pointless, since the stock intake is fine till about 400hp IIRC...... Also you haven't even finished breaking in the car..... SMH.....
false(check out cobb's website) and so what?
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:57 PM   #108
Gtikid98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregroot198521 View Post
You realize an intake is kind of pointless, since the stock intake is fine till about 400hp IIRC...... Also you haven't even finished breaking in the car..... SMH.....
intake(albeit debated) was recommended from the go to tuner in the area the New England forum guys told me to contact. As far as breaking in the car, ill have 1500 by wed, but i have a habit of adding parts right off the lot
intake under 500miles

still dont know what i was thinking with the rims
-exhaust in the first week

the truck got an exhaust on the way home from the dealership and the S got an intake and a few other parts in the first week as well lol...its a sickness
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:59 AM   #109
veener79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gtikid98 View Post
Have to say thanks to O.C.D. great post and alot of helpful info, just finished it on mine...



figured i would hack the nav while i was at it.
What did you hack on the nav?
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:13 AM   #110
Gtikid98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veener79 View Post
What did you hack on the nav?
The E-brake signal wire to allow phone and nav(video as well)inputs while moving. Its just a splice into the grey wire on the plug on the top driver side of the unit...just ground it out.
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:06 PM   #111
midwestmonster
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If I don't want the defy red racer to dim, where can I hook up the white wire? Thanks.
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:08 PM   #112
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Leave it unattached.
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:17 PM   #113
midwestmonster
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Thanks!
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Old 08-23-2011, 10:27 PM   #114
gregroot198521
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FYI: You don't have to remove the wheel for this install method. Just lift the front right corner with the jack, and wedge your fingers around the wheel well plastic and pop it under the fender a little bit. It rests on 2 overhangs in the bottom outside of the fender. You pop it down a bit and it is flexible enough to just bend out of the way for a bit. Then just run your wiring through that plug that leads to the cabin.
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:54 PM   #115
CJ8501
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Looks good Gtikid
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Old 08-24-2011, 05:39 PM   #116
Gtikid98
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Looks good Gtikid
thank you kindly sir
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Old 08-24-2011, 10:16 PM   #117
bzbuzz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTSparky View Post
I think I've wired the defi boost gauge so that it does not do the double sweep during the ignition cycle.

To be totally honest it was by accident when I was fiddling with the illumination wire.
for reference:
2011 STi
Orange # 4
Red #24
White #14

I hope this helps...
BTW here is the youtube:
http://youtu.be/uxUkeY_po1w

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxUkeY_po1w
I don't think yours functions correctly.
Red should be constant +12V but you connect it to non constant +12v, audio.
when you turn off your car your defi will not be reset properly.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:47 PM   #118
mann88
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Thanks for the great write up. I will definitely reference this thread when it comes time to install my gauges. Very clean install!
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:14 AM   #119
b1aze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bzbuzz View Post
Red should be constant +12V but you connect it to non constant +12v, audio.
Door lock works perfect.
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:15 PM   #120
bzbuzz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b1aze View Post
Door lock works perfect.
yes thats what i use as well.
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:36 PM   #121
O.C.D.
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What is with all the ProSport gauges in this Defi thread?!?!?

Glad this thread is still lingering around for those using the cluster. I truly think the SMY Cluster was one of the best aftermarket purchases I have ever made for any car.

Between the love of my car and everything I have done; the gauges at night make me most happy. Couldn't have done this in any shape or form without it.

Props again Yanev!!!

p.s. The shirt gets a ton of questions as well, lol.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:20 PM   #122
BrakeSTI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTSparky
I think I've wired the defi boost gauge so that it does not do the double sweep during the ignition cycle.

To be totally honest it was by accident when I was fiddling with the illumination wire.
for reference:
2011 STi
Orange # 4
Red #24
White #14

I hope this helps...
BTW here is the youtube:
http://youtu.be/uxUkeY_po1w

Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxUkeY_po1w
I'm about to use this same set up my question is what did you do with the yellow wire did you just tape it off or something. Thanks
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:08 PM   #123
sl8anic
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Now, fuse #16 is listed as Illumination. Is it the same PWM line that's used everywhere on 08+ MY's?

I'm trying to wire in an Omori boost gauge and they have special brigtness adapter that's supposed to cut down amount of illumination (too bright). My thought was that it must be a "carry-over problem" from previous gen cars since thouse used voltage variation.

Considering that foorwell lighting kit uses straight LEDs and they dim like champs I might be on the right track.
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:09 PM   #124
tbagsack
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Hey so I have an 08 STI and the oil galley plug under the alternator has a sensor already coming out of it. I looked it up its the OEM Pressure sensor What do i do with it when removing it. I'm trying to place like OCD a Defi Oil Pressure gauge in its place.
Thanks
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:38 PM   #125
b1aze
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The sensor is just removed. The light will no longer be functional but functionality is covered by your gauge. The connector can just be routed out of the way.
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