2011+ Discussion Thread-Any and all 3G topics

[chanomatik]

I haven't used compressors in years, but don't they just retain the spring's compression to safely remove them from the shocks, then as you slowly loosen them they decompress? Unless one is compressing them too tightly with the compressors (which is incorrect, from what I recall) then I don't see how it would make a difference.

Plus I wouldn't want to pay a shop to deal with that anyways since it's so much fun to work on yourself. A fairly easy and educational install meet for newbies to Subies (or "noobs to Scoobs").

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[Celery GT-5]

people that have shops do everything end up spending like double the price on everything, may as well just start of with a better car if you are gonna waste all that money on stuff you didn't even install yourself

[chanomatik]

How far does it go, though? I don't ever do my own oil changes because I don't care to dispose of the oil and I never have anywhere dry or even to do them.

[Ying]

My rule of thumb is that I'll do my own work on anything that 1) I currently have the tools for or only need less than $150 of new tools to complete it. 2) Can have the car back in operation the same day. 3)Feel comfortable that if I F*$# something up I have a way to take care of it the same day. Otherwise I don't mess with it.

[Celery GT-5]

yeah I'm not saying you have to do everything or anything, I just think paying for mods twice so you don't have to install them ruins the fun..lol.

I wouldn't try to rebuild a tranny or something complex like that by myself

you are right about changing oil I don't like putting used oil in my car so I just let it sit for years in the garage..lol

[honestabe]

Correct, xabre is mistaken about the common issue. From what I know, the issue with doing this install yourself is spinning the strut main shaft while trying to manipulate that nut on top. You aren't supposed to spin the shaft too much, something to do with some seals down inside. I think our struts have a socket head interface on that shaft that should allow you to keep it still while you remove or tighten down that nut.

[PearlRex11]

Originally Posted by Ying

My rule of thumb is that I'll do my own work on anything that 1) I currently have the tools for or only need less than $150 of new tools to complete it. 2) Can have the car back in operation the same day. 3)Feel comfortable that if I F*$# something up I have a way to take care of it the same day. Otherwise I don't mess with it.

Ditto. Well put

[Louie]

Originally Posted by honestabe

Correct, xabre is mistaken about the common issue. From what I know, the issue with doing this install yourself is spinning the strut main shaft while trying to manipulate that nut on top. You aren't supposed to spin the shaft too much, something to do with some seals down inside. I think our struts have a socket head interface on that shaft that should allow you to keep it still while you remove or tighten down that nut.

True, also a reason why you crack the torque on those nuts while they are on the car. The tears are keyed so its not a problem.

[_davin]

I'm having trouble finding any direct comparisons, does anyone know the difference in quality between the bayson r and JNA lips?

[xabre1200]

Pretty sure they're the same. I've been scraping my BaysonR lip everyday for 2 months and it's holding up just fine.

[xluben]

Originally Posted by PROcede

Hey guys I could just be paranoid but when you are doing the ringland check with the oil filler cap are you supposed I have huffs of air coming out of the cap or is it only if you have real visible white smoke coming out? I have huffs of air but no smoke. My car is running fine no issues but i want to start checking it after driving hard or long freeway drives.

Air coming out is normal.
A little bit of oil (droplets/vapor) coming out is normal.
Smoke coming out is bad. Check compression.

Originally Posted by Celery GT-5

people that have shops do everything end up spending like double the price on everything, may as well just start of with a better car if you are gonna waste all that money on stuff you didn't even install yourself

I agree. I've done all the work on my car (some with help from local guys). It's been a great learning experience. Prior to this car I'd never done anything more than change my oil or wheels.

Originally Posted by Celery GT-5

what do spring compressors have to do with anything? some springs are impossible to get on w/o compressing. I can't remember if I used them or not with my epics. I think I've had my springs on for about a year now, not sure the mileage but the roads around here are really ****ty so that can't be helping. They just seem a little more harsh although maybe its just from switching 215/55s to 235/45s for summer. I think they could benefit from some better dampening.

I'll agree with what's already been said. Using spring compressors should have nothing to do with damaging springs or shocks. Being lowered on springs like Epics, and using the stock dampers will likely cause the dampers to fail pretty quickly. Much better performance and longevity can be had with some like RCE Yellow's or Black's and Koni or GTWorx/Bilstein's.

[Celery GT-5]

yeah, I will say that driving around on long island(as opposed to upstate NY) the dampening doesn't seem as bad because the roads aren't nearly as torn up...still some konis would be nice

also car feels a little faster at the lower altitude..lol

[08fg2]

Curious, any of you have a soft ticking noise coming from under the car? Mostly heard at lower speeds and 1-2 gears 3rd is very faint. Sounds like an exhaust leak but I checked all gaskets/bolts and nothing. Appeared after going stage 2... Around 6k miles. I just hit 10. Been ignoring it but does get annoying. Best heard when driving beside tall curbs, buildings and objects the make the sounds bounce off and more clear...

[08fg2]

After jacking up the car and looking for things, it seems like the noise is coming from the transmission. Maybe the throw out bearing?

[chanomatik]

Originally Posted by 08fg2

After jacking up the car and looking for things, it seems like the noise is coming from the transmission. Maybe the throw out bearing?

How many miles you got on your 2012, sir?

[08fg2]

I just hit 10,000 Ive noticed the problem at about 6,000.

[jege41]

In my experience the throw-out bearing makes noise when disengaging the clutch.
Sounds like a rock in one of your tires, or worse a nail.

Originally Posted by 08fg2

I just hit 10,000 Ive noticed the problem at about 6,000.

[08fg2]

Noise Is present when car is standing still while giving some throttle.

[ripandrun]

What are you guys running for Tranny fluid and brake fluid for the 2011?
Looking for a small upgrade over stock. Its a DD car that wont see a track.

[chanomatik]

Originally Posted by ripandrun

What are you guys running for Tranny fluid and brake fluid for the 2011?
Looking for a small upgrade over stock. Its a DD car that wont see a track.

I had my tranny fluid switched to Subaru Extra S back in October. Smooth as butta.

[Celery GT-5]

So my car is having intermittent loopy idle. Any ideas? I am a bit low on gas I guess idk weird

[BoxedUp]

Originally Posted by Celery GT-5

So my car is having intermittent loopy idle. Any ideas? I am a bit low on gas I guess idk weird

That is a good way to describe it. I have the same issue. Usually after leaving my office.

[Louie]

sounds like a vacuum leak.

[Celery GT-5]

wouldn't that show up on the boost gauge and not go away on its own?

[Ying]

Originally Posted by Celery GT-5

So my car is having intermittent loopy idle. Any ideas? I am a bit low on gas I guess idk weird

Loopy idle when the engine's cold or warm? Loopy like RPM dip when idling, then back to ~1500 RPM when it's cold, ~700-800 RPM when it's warm? Running A/C?

In any of those scenarios, it's a normal boxer quirk. Happened in all 3 of my Subi's. If it's something different than that, please elaborate. Curious.