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Old 05-24-2011, 04:17 PM   #1
vision.dynamix
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Default Towing, Tie Downs.

Im constantly stressing about having the car tied down properly on the trailer and Im always wondering if what Im doing is right/wrong..probably because I watched a car fall off a trailer on the highway when I was younger..

Right now in the front I use 10k lb straps on the tie down eyes on the subframe, crossed. In the rear, I use a chain from the rear tow hook to the right side rear tie down. Chain runs parallel with the centerline of the car/trailer. I use the car to put tension on this chain (roll car forward, set e-brake. Sinch down front straps.) In addition, in the rear I use a ratchet strap from the rear tow hook to the rear left tie down on the trailer. I WANT to use a strap from the rear tie down point on the car next to the muffler to the rear right tie down on the trailer, but I have a slight problem. First is the muffler gets in the way. And second, the hook on the 10k lb straps dont fit into that tie dow on the car. As of current I wrap the strap around the wheel, but I dont exactly wanna do this.

Am I doing it right? And what's the solution to the rear tie down on the car?
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:35 PM   #2
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:39 PM   #3
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I used to just run the strap under the muffle and let it push it up a bit. Never had a problem. Might take a little pushing to get the muffler centered again, but that's like an extra minute of work. I don't use chains, I use straps. In the font I don't have the stock subframe so I I just loop through the wheel sand go straight out to the tie down. In the rear I cross. Never had a problem.

These are the straps I use:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G7950/
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:49 PM   #4
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Mine all have the Double-J Hook like this.


Would using something like a shackle be a bad idea?
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:16 PM   #5
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your setup looks pretty good. that extra strap at the rear is a good idea.

as for hooks, I got some great straps from rallylights.com (don't remember the brand, straps are so filthy now tag isn't readable) that have hooks with spring-clip gates like a carabiner so that even if a strap slacks off a lil, hook won't fall out of tow eye on car or trailer.

another idea is to run those rear straps thru the wheels, which are a whole lot stronger than tow eyes. restraints at the back of car are key when sheet hits the fan, it's big-time decel that turns trailered cars into missiles.
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:21 PM   #6
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Right. Those straps I linked to @ Summit have the spring clips. Definitely a great feature. I wouldn't use anything without them.

I wouldn't suggest using the wheels if you're going to cross the straps. I know there's a very slim chance, but if the straps are tight enough, and maybe in some sort of small accident/hit, it could throw out the alignment. I know I run the risk by using the wheels/straps in the front, but I tie down straight out, not crossed. I cross in the rear.
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:33 PM   #7
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I use ratchet straps to the 4 factory tie down points and cross them. I have to use a clevis type thing I picked up at the hardware store for the rear tie down by the muffler. My straps don't fit that hole. The strap touches the muffler a little, no big deal, just don't let the straps rub sharp edges or they can wear through. I've got these sleeve type things you can slide over the straps so they don't get worn.

I've seriously towed various subaru cars 30,000 miles in the last 5 years like this without any problems.

Going through the wheels is fine too, I've had to do that a few times on cars that were missing the tie down hooks.

Be sure to check the straps on long tows when you make stops. Sometime they need another click on the ratchet. If you're really anal go around the block before you leave and recheck the straps.
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:32 PM   #8
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like the others that posted, the strap layout looks fine and using the factory hook points is good. My only question is are you using hook points on the trailer as well?
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RB5 Clone View Post
your setup looks pretty good. that extra strap at the rear is a good idea.

as for hooks, I got some great straps from rallylights.com (don't remember the brand, straps are so filthy now tag isn't readable) that have hooks with spring-clip gates like a carabiner so that even if a strap slacks off a lil, hook won't fall out of tow eye on car or trailer.

another idea is to run those rear straps thru the wheels, which are a whole lot stronger than tow eyes. restraints at the back of car are key when sheet hits the fan, it's big-time decel that turns trailered cars into missiles.
Hmm...Ill look into getting new straps (again) that have the snap hook. I was told those werent available in the 10k rating.

Decelleration is EXACTLY the purpose of the chain in the rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mav1c View Post
Right. Those straps I linked to @ Summit have the spring clips. Definitely a great feature. I wouldn't use anything without them.

I wouldn't suggest using the wheels if you're going to cross the straps. I know there's a very slim chance, but if the straps are tight enough, and maybe in some sort of small accident/hit, it could throw out the alignment. I know I run the risk by using the wheels/straps in the front, but I tie down straight out, not crossed. I cross in the rear.
I was told not to use the wheels because even without a hit/accident, it could knock out the alignment, especially when youre crossing straps. You can cinch then down so tight you start pulling the alignment out of whack?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69subaru360 View Post
I use ratchet straps to the 4 factory tie down points and cross them. I have to use a clevis type thing I picked up at the hardware store for the rear tie down by the muffler. My straps don't fit that hole. The strap touches the muffler a little, no big deal, just don't let the straps rub sharp edges or they can wear through. I've got these sleeve type things you can slide over the straps so they don't get worn.

I've seriously towed various subaru cars 30,000 miles in the last 5 years like this without any problems.

Going through the wheels is fine too, I've had to do that a few times on cars that were missing the tie down hooks.

Be sure to check the straps on long tows when you make stops. Sometime they need another click on the ratchet. If you're really anal go around the block before you leave and recheck the straps.
Something like this?


That was the shackle I was asking about earlier if they were safe to use. I need to look at my strap but the bolt on the shackle should be able to go through the look in the webbing and I wouldnt even use the J-hook in that attachment.

I always check my straps after once around the block and right before I hit the highway. And when Im at a gas station. Along with the coupler, chains, etc. This one time, I dragged a ramp on a U-Haul trailer about 300 miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmimpreza View Post
like the others that posted, the strap layout looks fine and using the factory hook points is good. My only question is are you using hook points on the trailer as well?
The trailer has welded D-rings that Im using.
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:51 PM   #10
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Turndown exhaust = problem solved.
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
Something like this?


That was the shackle I was asking about earlier if they were safe to use. I need to look at my strap but the bolt on the shackle should be able to go through the look in the webbing and I wouldnt even use the J-hook in that attachment.

I always check my straps after once around the block and right before I hit the highway. And when Im at a gas station. Along with the coupler, chains, etc. This one time, I dragged a ramp on a U-Haul trailer about 300 miles.
Yeah that is exactly what I use. Works great. I put the bolt through the tie down loop on the car and hook the strap to the loop in the clevis thing.

I had a ramp fall out the back once too when the chain that holds them came off. After that I drilled holes in the ramps and put a hitch pin in there.
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:25 PM   #12
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this is what I use works fine
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:29 PM   #13
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Theres absolutely no way those things would work on my car.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:20 AM   #14
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No wheels on your car?
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:31 AM   #15
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Nope.


Really though, my car is stupid low. Getting those properly set on the wheels would be impossible.
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Old 05-31-2011, 11:58 AM   #16
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Because some people like to stay next to the trailer to gawk at the car..
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