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Old 05-28-2011, 02:35 PM   #1
dragoryte
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Default Polk Audio db651 or db651s?

Hey guys. Im ordering some replacements for my door speakers. I am getting some .75 spacers from phenryiv1 and was wondering if I should go with the 651 or 651s from Polk. The 651s says its "shallow" but looking at the dimensions doesn't seem much different. Suggestions?
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Old 05-28-2011, 03:37 PM   #2
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I believe the S's tweeter is the slim part.. not 100% sure but with 3/4" spacers, I'd for for the non-S model..
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Old 05-28-2011, 07:03 PM   #3
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Yeah when you go shallow, there is a performance trade-off that you may or may not notice. I'd go with the regular.
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Old 05-28-2011, 07:14 PM   #4
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651's fit just fine....even with OEM spacers
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:51 AM   #5
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How is the performance of these speakers?

I was also thinking of going with Polk Audio MM6501for the fronts. Anybody have these?
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Old 05-29-2011, 02:20 PM   #6
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would love to know the performance as well
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXSPOOLIN View Post
How is the performance of these speakers?

I was also thinking of going with Polk Audio MM6501for the fronts. Anybody have these?
very, very good... They are my preferred car speakers if you are shopping for something still in the affordable range. Used them in every competition system I've built for myself.
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:13 PM   #8
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Go with the regular ones. I have them in the rear. We have them on custom 3/4" spacers (brother and I made them). They fit perfect. As mentioned, there is a performance trade-off with the "s" model. They are shallow mount. The magnet and cone deflection is less compared to the regular one. Since the regular ones fit, and there is minimal price difference (none when I got mine), imo, there should be no reason not to go for the regular ones.

I have been extremely happy with the sound quality, volume, and balance of these speakers.

I have them in the rear, Polk db6501 components up front. A JL w3v3 sub. All hooked up to an alpine PDX-5 amp with a JVC KD-AHD79 head unit.
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Old 06-01-2011, 01:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoker68 View Post
Go with the regular ones. I have them in the rear. We have them on custom 3/4" spacers (brother and I made them). They fit perfect. As mentioned, there is a performance trade-off with the "s" model. They are shallow mount. The magnet and cone deflection is less compared to the regular one. Since the regular ones fit, and there is minimal price difference (none when I got mine), imo, there should be no reason not to go for the regular ones.

I have been extremely happy with the sound quality, volume, and balance of these speakers.

I have them in the rear, Polk db6501 components up front. A JL w3v3 sub. All hooked up to an alpine PDX-5 amp with a JVC KD-AHD79 head unit.
Do your DB6501 tweeters fit in the stock tweeter location?
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragoryte View Post
Do your DB6501 tweeters fit in the stock tweeter location?
I'd like to know this as well...

Is everyone just buying the coaxial door speakers or actual components? I hear that the Subaru Tweeter housing is impossible to use aftermarket tweeters with. I don't mind going Coaxial door speaker only but does it make the imaging of the highs completely screwed up or does it still sound good?
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragoryte View Post
Do your DB6501 tweeters fit in the stock tweeter location?
With a bit of plastic cutting and some modification, they will.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I have the 6501's in the front and the 651's in the rear. After amping the front speakers though, I don't use my rears anymore. I'd vouch for the 6501's, they are wonderful speakers for a small budget (I got mine for $99 after looking through Google Shopping).
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by P.Rico View Post
With a bit of plastic cutting and some modification, they will.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I have the 6501's in the front and the 651's in the rear. After amping the front speakers though, I don't use my rears anymore. I'd vouch for the 6501's, they are wonderful speakers for a small budget (I got mine for $99 after looking through Google Shopping).
This is exactly what I have done too. After taking the old tweeter out, you will see it is probably a 3/4 inch (as opposed to the Polk 1"). The bottom part of the bracket I filed/cut off with a dremel. I have foam just like it is in this picture to keep the tweeter snug. It looks kind of goofy, but it works great. The top screw still holds the two pieces of the housing together. I have had it installed as shown for 2 months now with no issues at all. The whole tweeter will not be right behind the grill, but they are plenty loud. I even have them switched to the "-3 db" mark on the crossover. There should be no issues with volume. Especially with an after market head unit (which i highly recommend) where you can adjust the equalizer.

In short, the tweeters do not directly fit, or swap with the oem ones. However, it is extremely easy to install them in the same housing with 5-10 of dremeling and foam packing.

hope this helps
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:52 PM   #13
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I want to order two sets of DB651 speakers for my front and rear doors, just had a couple questions...

1. Where can I find instructions for taking my door panels off safely?
2. Do these fit in both the front and rear doors w/ the stock spacers or just the front?
3. Will these sound OK for now on the stock headunit or at least improved over stock speakers? I plan on a new headunit/small amp later but the budget doesn't allow it now.
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:53 PM   #14
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Oh and also is it worth me paying $112 shipped off Amazon or ponying up $150 to get from Crutchfield as they usually send better directions/better support than most companies?
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:22 AM   #15
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Why pay more for support/directions when you can get all of that here for free?

For example... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1891166
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:14 PM   #16
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+1 to all the awesome walkthroughs like the one above.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil_Dunphy View Post
Oh and also is it worth me paying $112 shipped off Amazon or ponying up $150 to get from Crutchfield as they usually send better directions/better support than most companies?
Is there a sale going on at Crutchfield? Both the db651 and db651s are showing $99 a pair. Amazon has them for $56 though.
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Old 06-03-2011, 09:08 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by suby-newbie View Post
+1 to all the awesome walkthroughs like the one above.




Is there a sale going on at Crutchfield? Both the db651 and db651s are showing $99 a pair. Amazon has them for $56 though.
Last time I looked they had buy one pair, get a second for half off. I am going to buy two pairs so that's what I was referencing. I'm just going to do Amazon though and save the money. I'm hoping all the hardware I need is included when I buy from Amazon, not that there's much hardware needed.
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:01 PM   #18
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Last edited by Phil_Dunphy; 06-03-2011 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:17 PM   #19
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So will the non-slim models fit in the door without adapters? Will the tweeters smash up against the door grille?
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:30 PM   #20
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According to member Willoc, the non-slim 651's fit without modification on the OEM spacers. I'm ordering 2 pairs of them and sound dampening.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:39 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
I believe the S's tweeter is the slim part.. not 100% sure but with 3/4" spacers, I'd for for the non-S model..
I believe this is correct. The magnet is the same and the depth below the mounting surface is the same. The "s" simply has a flush with the cone tweeter mounting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stoker68 View Post
Go with the regular ones. I have them in the rear. We have them on custom 3/4" spacers (brother and I made them). They fit perfect. As mentioned, there is a performance trade-off with the "s" model. They are shallow mount. The magnet and cone deflection is less compared to the regular one. Since the regular ones fit, and there is minimal price difference (none when I got mine), imo, there should be no reason not to go for the regular ones.

I have been extremely happy with the sound quality, volume, and balance of these speakers.

I have them in the rear, Polk db6501 components up front. A JL w3v3 sub. All hooked up to an alpine PDX-5 amp with a JVC KD-AHD79 head unit.
Should be no difference in sound since the magnets are the same.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:07 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by ilara72 View Post
Should be no difference in sound since the magnets are the same.

Flatter cone = less structural rigidity (as well as the basket being slightly more flexible, not an issue for a 6.5 speaker though). Side by side, its possible to hear a difference. Most people would never be able to tell which is which in a blind test car environment though.
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:28 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
I believe the S's tweeter is the slim part.. not 100% sure but with 3/4" spacers, I'd for for the non-S model..
My research has shown the same thing. I get a lot of PMs from people who want to go with the regular db651 speakers (often the db651 rear with 6501 front) and they fit with a 3/4" spacers.

The db651s is really the same speaker with a low-protrusion tweeter, but even with a 3/4" spacer the regular db651 model fits fine behind the panels.

For some reason, the low end extension on the regular db651 is listed as being slightly better than on the db651s.
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Old 08-10-2011, 06:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoker68 View Post
This is exactly what I have done too. After taking the old tweeter out, you will see it is probably a 3/4 inch (as opposed to the Polk 1"). The bottom part of the bracket I filed/cut off with a dremel. I have foam just like it is in this picture to keep the tweeter snug. It looks kind of goofy, but it works great. The top screw still holds the two pieces of the housing together. I have had it installed as shown for 2 months now with no issues at all. The whole tweeter will not be right behind the grill, but they are plenty loud. I even have them switched to the "-3 db" mark on the crossover. There should be no issues with volume. Especially with an after market head unit (which i highly recommend) where you can adjust the equalizer.

In short, the tweeters do not directly fit, or swap with the oem ones. However, it is extremely easy to install them in the same housing with 5-10 of dremeling and foam packing.

hope this helps
Just wondering if you cut the two post that hold the OEM tweeter in place? There are 3 post that screws go into to hold the back plate on, and 2 of them also mount to the OEM Tweeter. Are those the 2 you cut leaving the top one, so the back of the sail can still mount with the front of the sail? Hope this makes sense

Thanks!
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:17 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Tystik4056 View Post
Just wondering if you cut the two post that hold the OEM tweeter in place? There are 3 post that screws go into to hold the back plate on, and 2 of them also mount to the OEM Tweeter. Are those the 2 you cut leaving the top one, so the back of the sail can still mount with the front of the sail? Hope this makes sense

Thanks!
yes. correct! The plastic housing creates a sort of bracket that holds the tweeter with two screws. you have to dremel those two out. you will be left with one screw holding the two peices together. the foam keeps the tweeter from falling out, and the one seam that faces you while sitting in the car...the two sides sort of click together. Hope this makes sense. It is a little hands-on, and scary, but after 4 months of bumpy roads, I have not had any issues. good luck
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