DCCDpro.com Universal Controller Installation

[madkayaker]

I just finished up my DCCDpro Universal controller and thought I’d make a post to help out anyone else that might be interested in doing the same. The installation was a little time consuming, but all in all it is pretty straight forward.

My installation is on a 02 wrx with an 04 6mt, although it shouldn’t really make much difference what year model the car is except for the TPS (throttle position sensor) connection. If you plan to use oem sti controls, you can purchase them from dccdpro as an option and they will come already wired up. If you already have oem sti controls, you can send Jeff the controls and he can wire them up for you. If you have some experience soldering, you can do it yourself (there isn’t much room to work, so it is easy to screw up).

The controller


The car


I chose to mount the controller behind the dash on the driver’s side behind the knee crash pad area (which is where Jeff recommends).
Included, were some clip connectors (don’t know what they are properly called) with the controller. I have had issues with these loosing contact after miles and miles of vibrating, so I chose not to use them. All of my connections are soldered and protected with heat-shrink tubing.

Anyway, here goes.

Connect the red wire to a switched 12v power source. I chose to tap into the rear wiper circuit at the fuse panel. Due to the simplicity, this is how I connected to the circuit. I believe these connectors can be purchased at just about any auto parts store.



Next, connect the green wire to 0v negative (ground). If you need help finding a good place to ground to, then you should probably stop and find someone to finish the install for you.

Connect the black wire to the black wire in the transmission harness to the dccd. (B128 pin 1)

Connect the white wire to the green wire in the transmission harness to the dccd. (B128 pin 4)

Jeff recommends soldering these wires at the passenger side of the center diff tailpiece, but I just connected them at the transmission harness underneath the TMIC. My jack stands are sketchy and I didn’t feel like driving 2 hours to my dad’s shop where I can put it on a lift. I plan to move them at some point in the future. This is where I connected mine for now:



Connect the brown wire to the e-brake so that it’s grounded when the e-brake is activated.



Connect the Blue wire to the TPS. This step will vary slightly depending on your vehicle.

Pull the carpet back on the passenger side floorboard to gain access to the ECU. Remove the metal plate that protects the ECU





Use the appropriate link below to determine which wire in the ECU harness to connect to.

For a cable throttle use this diagram:

http://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/d...PS%20cable.pdf



For an electronic throttle use this diagram (it will be a different wire depending on your year model, so look at the schematic carefully):

http://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/d.../TPS%20dbw.pdf

Next, remove the shifter surround and e-brake surround.



Run the wires for the controls and the g sensor through the center console toward the e-brake handle.

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[madkayaker]

Mount the g-sensor in the flat spot next to the e-brake handle using 2 part epoxy or contact cement made for plastics. Jeff said that two sided tape or foam carpet tape is not recommended. I didn’t ask why, but I would assume it is because it is very important that the g-sensor stay put and that it should not move around at all. The orientation arrow should be facing the front of the vehicle and the screws of the cover should be facing upwards.



Next, mount the controls where you would like them. It seems they are most commonly mounted in the same locations as where the sti controls would have been by drilling holes and mounting them into the switch blanks. You will also have to disconnect the wires by using a small screwdriver. Install the controls through the switch blanks and then reconnect the wires. If you are planning on swapping out the original controls for oem sti controls, you can skip the drilling and mounting junk, but don’t install the sti controls yet so that you can make sure the system is working properly. This will make trouble shooting easier if there does happen to be a problem.

I don’t have a STI cluster, so if you do, here is how the wires hook up.

White = Auto mode led
Green = 0% output led
Yellow = 20% output led
Orange = 40% output led
Red = 60% output led
Blue = 80% output led
Brown = Lock led
Black = 12v supply (this can be used to power older dccd display clusters, or if you are rigging up your own led indicators like I did)

I got leds and the appropriate resistors from radio shack and installed them on the top of the plastic steering column cover. You can find calculators with a quick google search that will help with determining the proper ohm resistor.

Here are a few pics of what I rigged up:







And here is a quick video: (am I the only one that hates hearing my own voice recorded? Dang I sound like a hick )

YouTube - ‪dccdpro installation of led indicators‬‏

YouTube - ‪dccdpro installation of led indicators‬‏

Now, if you are going to change the controls to oem sti, go ahead and test everything out and make sure it is working properly. Here is a link to testing and troubleshooting:

http://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/d...Pro%20test.pdf

If everything is working properly, you are good to go. If you haven’t already done so, put the trim pieces back together, tidy up your wires, and go for a spin.

If you are swapping out the controls yourself, follow these steps.
For the control knob, follow these steps:

http://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/d...OEM%20swap.pdf

If the control knob is now working backwards from what it should (lock position on the thumbwheel makes the diff open), then swap the red and green wires at the connector.



For the Auto/Manual switch, follow these steps:

http://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/d...EM%20swap2.pdf

I didn’t think the pictures where clear in these directions, so here are some better ones:





Remove the four screws from the DCCDpro main controller. On the corner of the motherboard you will see a blue "jumper" with two settings, one for the original switch and one for the STI switch. Change the jumper by simply pulling it off and reinserting it on the STI setting.





Replace the cover on the dccdpro main controller, connect the wires from the switches back up to the harness and pop them into the appropriate spots on your console, and enjoy.

[JarHarms]

Originally Posted by madkayaker

.....
If the control knob is now working backwards from what it should (lock position on the thumbwheel makes the diff open), then swap the red and green wires at the connector.



For the Auto/Manual switch, follow these steps:

http://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/d...EM%20swap2.pdf

I didn’t think the pictures where clear in these directions, so here are some better ones:





Remove the four screws from the DCCDpro main controller. On the corner of the motherboard you will see a blue "jumper" with two settings, one for the original switch and one for the STI switch. Change the jumper by simply pulling it off and reinserting it on the STI setting.




.......

GREAT post! These two points are very good to have out there. The positions of the red and green wires will resolve the difference between the two different thumbwheel switch versions. Awhile ago I had DMM'ed both the 2004 and 2005+ thumbwheel switches and the position -vs- ohm reading is inverted.

The internal jumper, well heck I did not even know that was on the board. This is not described in the online switch conversion instructions. Knowing this is very important for someone who purchased a DCCDpro with the original switches and is now going back to convert to the STi switches.
**That jumper is not on my DCCDpro circuit board, not sure if mine is newer or older than the OP's version.**

[DrnknZag]

WOW great write up! I'll be swapping in my 6spd in the matter of a few days and will be installing this unit as well. Can't wait!

[madkayaker]

Originally Posted by DrnknZag

WOW great write up! I'll be swapping in my 6spd in the matter of a few days and will be installing this unit as well. Can't wait!

You'll love the 6mt with this controller compared to your 5mt. The difference is like getting a new car, or at least it was for me.

[DCCDPro]

Nice writeup!

I love what you did with the led's in the steering wheel surround trim.

[madkayaker]

Originally Posted by DCCDPro

Nice writeup!

I love what you did with the led's in the steering wheel surround trim.

Thanks! I had a spare surround from a wrecked sti I'm parting out, so I thought I'd experiment on it. I really like the way it turned out. It's visible when driving, but not too bright at night because the leds aren't pointed straight at you.

[pezcore]

I need to upgrade from my manual controller to the auto one now that I have a DCCD cluster, and I will definitely be using this write-up, thanks!

Time to sell some parts to raise some cash!

[thebigcat]

Originally Posted by madkayaker

I got leds and the appropriate resistors from radio shack and installed them on the top of the plastic steering column cover. You can find calculators with a quick google search that will help with determining the proper ohm resistor.

Here are a few pics of what I rigged up:

I'm installing the same device in my bugeye for my 5mt STI 4.44 and I want to make the same sort of set up for the percentage of lock on the diff. I'm having trouble understanding the whole resistor part. Why do you need to put resistors? and which ones do I put and where? Sorry for my lack on knowledge :P I understand the rest of the installation but just not this part! It would be great if someone could help me out

This is what I'm faced with.
From what I understand, I would be connecting each wire leaving the console to the proper LED and then with the BLACK wire (12+) I would seperate it to each LED.

[madkayaker]

Originally Posted by thebigcat

I'm installing the same device in my bugeye for my 5mt STI 4.44 and I want to make the same sort of set up for the percentage of lock on the diff. I'm having trouble understanding the whole resistor part. Why do you need to put resistors? and which ones do I put and where? Sorry for my lack on knowledge :P I understand the rest of the installation but just not this part! It would be great if someone could help me out

You can find leds with built in resistors that are designed to be used with 12vdc, or you can pick out the leds you want and figure the proper resister using an online calculator. If you go to radioshack (or wherever you plan to get the leds from), you will see that they list the proper voltage for the led on the package the led comes in. Anyway, leds typically need very low voltage. 12vdc would ruin most leds, so the resistors are to lower the amount of voltage that gets to the leds. If you want simplicity, just buy the leds that already have a resister built in.

Originally Posted by thebigcat

This is what I'm faced with.
From what I understand, I would be connecting each wire leaving the console to the proper LED and then with the BLACK wire (12+) I would seperate it to each LED.

Correct.

[DCCDPro]

FYI, the electrical interface is there on the motherboard now in the latest revisions...but that feature isn't turned on in the firmware. Only the auto light will actually light up, when the system is in auto mode.
(Easter egg feature if you need/want it.)

I didn't want you to go to all the trouble soldering onto those points only to find out it doesn't function...and then think it's broken.

When you get the standard version UNI it lights up the auto/man switch in sync with the output...when you add the STi cluster option then the function is turned on to sequentially light up the dash/leds, and then the auto/man switch lighting changes to solid on = manual mode and off = auto mode.

It's an option because only maybe 25% of my customers need the option...otherwise I'd just make it the standard configuration. The small "option fee" is for the extra time, wire etc. to add it and test it.

[madkayaker]

Originally Posted by DCCDPro

FYI, the electrical interface is there on the motherboard now in the latest revisions...but that feature isn't turned on in the firmware. Only the auto light will actually light up, when the system is in auto mode.
(Easter egg feature if you need/want it.)

I didn't want you to go to all the trouble soldering onto those points only to find out it doesn't function...and then think it's broken.

When you get the standard version UNI it lights up the auto/man switch in sync with the output...when you add the STi cluster option then the function is turned on to sequentially light up the dash/leds, and then the auto/man switch lighting changes to solid on = manual mode and off = auto mode.

It's an option because only maybe 25% of my customers need the option...otherwise I'd just make it the standard configuration. The small "option fee" is for the extra time, wire etc. to add it and test it.

Thanks for correcting me. I'll send him a pm to make sure we catch him before he starts soldering.

[thebigcat]

Originally Posted by DCCDPro

FYI, the electrical interface is there on the motherboard now in the latest revisions...but that feature isn't turned on in the firmware. Only the auto light will actually light up, when the system is in auto mode.
(Easter egg feature if you need/want it.)

I didn't want you to go to all the trouble soldering onto those points only to find out it doesn't function...and then think it's broken.

When you get the standard version UNI it lights up the auto/man switch in sync with the output...when you add the STi cluster option then the function is turned on to sequentially light up the dash/leds, and then the auto/man switch lighting changes to solid on = manual mode and off = auto mode.

It's an option because only maybe 25% of my customers need the option...otherwise I'd just make it the standard configuration. The small "option fee" is for the extra time, wire etc. to add it and test it.

Oh no I had great ideas for this set-up.. should have done my research before hand. Any way of sending it back to you to upgrade my console to the STI cluster option? or I would need to get a whole new console... Let me know !

[DCCDPro]

No problem...you can always upgrade/add features if you need them.
The interface is only $10 to add, plus shipping.

It takes me about 15 minutes on the bench with my equipment to solder that stuff in and reprogram the controller, so it could be turned around in a day.

I'll be away for the next 8 days or so camping...no email or phone, but send me a message after that time and we'll sort it out!

-Jeff

[rustyg23]

Can't wait to get the six speed in this weekend will be getting this dccd to go along with it

[madkayaker]

Originally Posted by rustyg23

Can't wait to get the six speed in this weekend will be getting this dccd to go along with it

You won't regret it!

[rustyg23]

Originally Posted by madkayaker

You won't regret it!

Do you have one urself how long it take to install ?

[sackytar]

Great Write Up!
I will be doing this friday!

[sackytar]

What amp fuse should I use for switched Main power to unit? 10A

[sackytar]

Hello 10a fuse per instructions!

[sackytar]

Install done and working good! One question about the ebrake. Did you connect the brown wire and disconnect the oem from ebrake?

I ended up drilling small hole and soldered the brown wire to the connection plate and kept the oem connected.

[Justin V]

Both connected, otherwise the dash light won't have a signal when the parking brake is applied

[sackytar]

That's what I figured

[Storm]

I had to add a diode online with the ebrake wire to prevent backfeeding voltage to the cluster and dimly lighting the BRAKE light when not engaged.

Food for thought.
Jay

[sackytar]

Originally Posted by Storm

I had to add a diode online with the ebrake wire to prevent backfeeding voltage to the cluster and dimly lighting the BRAKE light when not engaged.

Food for thought.
Jay

Should be good for now since I didn't do a cluster yet.